diff --git a/markdown/dev/guides/best-practices/respect-draft-settings/en.md b/markdown/dev/guides/best-practices/respect-draft-settings/en.md index 065f9cd9b35..bce98d1ea3c 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/guides/best-practices/respect-draft-settings/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/guides/best-practices/respect-draft-settings/en.md @@ -13,13 +13,13 @@ that you should take into account while developing your pattern. They are: ## Complete The [complete](/reference/api/settings#complete) setting is a boolean that is either true or false. -Its goal is to determine whether we should draft a *complete* pattern, or merely the outline. +Its goal is to determine whether we should draft a _complete_ pattern, or merely the outline. ## Paperless The [paperless](/reference/api/settings#paperless) setting is a boolean that is either true or false. -A *paperless* pattern is a pattern that has extra dimensions so users can trace the +A _paperless_ pattern is a pattern that has extra dimensions so users can trace the paper on fabric or paper without having the need to print it. ## Seam allowance diff --git a/markdown/dev/guides/best-practices/use-percentages/en.md b/markdown/dev/guides/best-practices/use-percentages/en.md index b1292695b5c..1bcbb4f6cfe 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/guides/best-practices/use-percentages/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/guides/best-practices/use-percentages/en.md @@ -17,7 +17,7 @@ Instead, embrace percentages as options. ##### Use the antperson tests To check how well your pattern scales, you can -use the *antperson* test by sampling the pattern for 2 models: +use the _antperson_ test by sampling the pattern for 2 models: - A model with measurements of avarage person (the person) - A model with measurements 1/10th of an average person (the ant) diff --git a/markdown/dev/guides/best-practices/use-translation-keys/en.md b/markdown/dev/guides/best-practices/use-translation-keys/en.md index 59157d2dd11..c840bb266be 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/guides/best-practices/use-translation-keys/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/guides/best-practices/use-translation-keys/en.md @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ order: 60 Don't insert literal text in your patterns. Instead, insert a key that can then be translated. -For example, if you want to put *Finish with bias tape* on your pattern, don't be +For example, if you want to put _Finish with bias tape_ on your pattern, don't be tempted to do this: ```js diff --git a/markdown/dev/guides/en.md b/markdown/dev/guides/en.md index 7c65bb95600..c00ba9a1969 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/guides/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/guides/en.md @@ -13,7 +13,7 @@ You can find a list of all FreeSewing guides below: Guides tell a story to further your understanding of a specific topic. -Guides and howtos are on a spectrum with howtos being terse *do-this-then-that* recipes, whereas +Guides and howtos are on a spectrum with howtos being terse _do-this-then-that_ recipes, whereas guides take more time to explain in-depth what is being done and why. For more details, refer to [How we structure our documentation](/guides/docs). diff --git a/markdown/dev/guides/markdown/custom-components/en.md b/markdown/dev/guides/markdown/custom-components/en.md index fd133c6287e..0ff59b3d1b5 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/guides/markdown/custom-components/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/guides/markdown/custom-components/en.md @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ order: 90 --- The way we render markdown on our websites is through the use of [MDX](https://mdxjs.com/).\ -This allows us to extend Markdown with our own so-called *custom components*. +This allows us to extend Markdown with our own so-called _custom components_. Such custom components allow us to put things in Markdown content that would typically require a lot more complexity. diff --git a/markdown/dev/guides/markdown/frequent-mistakes/en.md b/markdown/dev/guides/markdown/frequent-mistakes/en.md index 8b94c1b90ad..c40c5eafc70 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/guides/markdown/frequent-mistakes/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/guides/markdown/frequent-mistakes/en.md @@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ Some things to keep in mind when working in Markdown are: ## Use remark-jargon for glossary terms -There is no need to add a *glossary* section to documentation. +There is no need to add a _glossary_ section to documentation. We use a plugin called [remark-jargon][rj] to explain terms. Information can be found at the link. diff --git a/markdown/dev/guides/markdown/italic-and-bold/en.md b/markdown/dev/guides/markdown/italic-and-bold/en.md index f2829fe0ba6..9bb71543191 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/guides/markdown/italic-and-bold/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/guides/markdown/italic-and-bold/en.md @@ -8,10 +8,10 @@ You can make text *italic* or **bold** by wrapping it in 1 or 2 asterisk respectively. ``` -You can make text *italic* or **bold** by wrapping it in 1 or 2 asterisk respectively: +You can make text _italic_ or **bold** by wrapping it in 1 or 2 asterisk respectively: ```md Alternatively, you can also use underscores to mark _italic_ or __bold__. ``` -Alternatively, you can also use underscores to mark *italic* or **bold**. +Alternatively, you can also use underscores to mark _italic_ or **bold**. diff --git a/markdown/dev/guides/patterns/en.md b/markdown/dev/guides/patterns/en.md index a38a4092fa6..08afe555b36 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/guides/patterns/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/guides/patterns/en.md @@ -19,7 +19,7 @@ If we look at our image, it can be divided into three areas: - The left area with the **settings** box - The middle area with the **Pattern** box and everything in it -- The right area with the **draft** box and the *SVG* and *React* logos +- The right area with the **draft** box and the _SVG_ and _React_ logos Let's take a closer look at everything that is contained within our central **Pattern** box: @@ -27,7 +27,7 @@ Let's take a closer look at everything that is contained within our central **Pa -The left and right parts are all about how to integrate FreeSewing in your *frontend*. +The left and right parts are all about how to integrate FreeSewing in your _frontend_. In other words, how you'll plug it into your website, or online store, or a mobile application. diff --git a/markdown/dev/guides/patterns/pattern/en.md b/markdown/dev/guides/patterns/pattern/en.md index efcf6ffbef0..b89eadf8b3d 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/guides/patterns/pattern/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/guides/patterns/pattern/en.md @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ Last but not least, we've arrived at the level of the pattern itself. The pattern is a container that holds all your parts, along with the configuration and the store. -In reality, your pattern will be a *constructor* that takes the user's settings as +In reality, your pattern will be a _constructor_ that takes the user's settings as input and will return a new instance of your pattern. That pattern instance will have a `draft()` method which will do the actual work of diff --git a/markdown/dev/guides/plugins/conditionally-loading-build-time-plugins/en.md b/markdown/dev/guides/plugins/conditionally-loading-build-time-plugins/en.md index 6b36ae558cb..c14f4b2a7f4 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/guides/plugins/conditionally-loading-build-time-plugins/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/guides/plugins/conditionally-loading-build-time-plugins/en.md @@ -52,9 +52,9 @@ const Pattern = new freesewing.Design( Our condition method will return `true` only if the following conditions are met: - A `settings` object is passed into the method -- `settings.options` is *truthy* -- `settings.options.draftForHighBust` is *truthy* -- `settings.options.measurements.highBust` is *truthy* +- `settings.options` is _truthy_ +- `settings.options.draftForHighBust` is _truthy_ +- `settings.options.measurements.highBust` is _truthy_ This is a real-world example from our Teagan pattern. A t-shirt pattern that can be drafted to the high bust (rather than the full chest circumference) if the user diff --git a/markdown/dev/guides/plugins/types-of-plugins/en.md b/markdown/dev/guides/plugins/types-of-plugins/en.md index ece50367835..7e55ea9327d 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/guides/plugins/types-of-plugins/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/guides/plugins/types-of-plugins/en.md @@ -30,7 +30,7 @@ Our [plugin bundle](/reference/plugins/bundle/) bundles build-time plugins that A plugin is a run-time plugin if it can be added after instantiating your pattern. Think of it as a plugin to be used in the front-end. -Run-time plugins are not a dependecy of the pattern. They just *add something* to it. +Run-time plugins are not a dependecy of the pattern. They just _add something_ to it. Our [theme plugin](/reference/plugins/theme/) is a good example of a run-time plugin. If it's missing, your pattern will still work, it just won't look pretty. diff --git a/markdown/dev/guides/prerequisites/bezier-curves/en.md b/markdown/dev/guides/prerequisites/bezier-curves/en.md index 1894cad3db6..e12c53ce5ba 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/guides/prerequisites/bezier-curves/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/guides/prerequisites/bezier-curves/en.md @@ -21,13 +21,13 @@ In FreeSewing, we use so-called cubic Bézier curves which have: An example of a Bézier curve drawn by the Path.curve() method -Bézier curves and their *handles* or *control points* are surprisingly intuitive. +Bézier curves and their _handles_ or _control points_ are surprisingly intuitive. The following illustration does a great job at explaining how they are constructed: ![How Bézier curves are constructed](bezier.gif) You don't need understand the mathematics behind Bézier Curves. -As long as you intuitively *get* how the control points influence the curve, you're good to go. +As long as you intuitively _get_ how the control points influence the curve, you're good to go. diff --git a/markdown/dev/guides/translation/en.md b/markdown/dev/guides/translation/en.md index 5030e5b73e8..d6b19e1c9be 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/guides/translation/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/guides/translation/en.md @@ -79,7 +79,7 @@ expect to find the same structure, the same amount of headings, paragraphs and s ### Strapi -Strapi ([strapi.io](https://strapi.io/)) is a so-called *headless content management system (CMS)*. +Strapi ([strapi.io](https://strapi.io/)) is a so-called _headless content management system (CMS)_. Headless just means that we load the content from it via an API, rather than have it be part of our website like a classic CMS (eg. Wordpress). diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-instructions/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-instructions/en.md index 7ef4745561d..747bb8ffc80 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-instructions/en.md @@ -12,7 +12,7 @@ about: While documentation is good, sometimes you want to add some instructions -Adding instructions to your pattern is *just* a matter of adding text. +Adding instructions to your pattern is _just_ a matter of adding text. The tricky part is to make sure your text can be translated. Below is a rather involved example from Aaron: diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-paths/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-paths/en.md index 8c055dc6307..07907710492 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-paths/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-paths/en.md @@ -9,7 +9,7 @@ After using the [shorthand](/howtos/code/shorthand/) call, `Path` contains the path constructor, while `paths` is a reference to `part.paths`, which is where you should store your paths. -Things will now *just work* when you do this: +Things will now _just work_ when you do this: ```js paths.example = new Path() diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-points/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-points/en.md index d3790844458..396f0a30848 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-points/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-points/en.md @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ After using the [shorthand](/howtos/code/shorthand/) call, `Point` contains the point constructor, while `points` is a reference to `part.points`, which is where you should store your points. -Things will now *just work* when you do this: +Things will now _just work_ when you do this: ```js points.centerBack = new Point(0,0); diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-snippets/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-snippets/en.md index bbb6e2ec6e2..d4884271646 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-snippets/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/adding-snippets/en.md @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ After using the [shorthand](/howtos/code/shorthand/) call, `Snippet` contains the path constructor, while `snippets` is a reference to `part.snippets`, which is where you should store your paths. -Things will now *just work* when you do this: +Things will now _just work_ when you do this: ```js snippets.logo = new Snippet('logo', points.logoAnchor); diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/attributes/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/attributes/en.md index db218c7d9a4..5fecab4e1af 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/attributes/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/attributes/en.md @@ -16,7 +16,7 @@ paths.example.attributes.add('class', 'lining dashed'); Because it's so common to set attributes, Points, Paths and Snippets all have the `attr()` helper method. -Not only is less more, the method is also *chainable*, which allows you to do this: +Not only is less more, the method is also _chainable_, which allows you to do this: ```js points.message = new Point(0,0) @@ -36,7 +36,7 @@ The [adding-text](/concepts/adding-text) documentation explains this in detail. When rendering, FreeSewing will output all your attributes. This gives you the possiblity to use any valid attribute to control the appearance. -This is also why we use the *data-* prefix for those attributes that have +This is also why we use the _data-_ prefix for those attributes that have special meaning within FreeSewing, such as `data-text`. Adding a `text` attribute would result in invalid SVG as there is no such thing as a text attribute. But `data-text` is fine because the `data-` prefix indicates it is a [custom attribute](https://developer.mozilla.org/en-US/docs/Web/SVG/Attribute/data-*). diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/inject/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/inject/en.md index a06d0224562..55b7c13baeb 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/inject/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/inject/en.md @@ -15,7 +15,7 @@ inject: { } ``` -The `front` and `back` parts will be *injected* with the `base` part. As a result, both +The `front` and `back` parts will be _injected_ with the `base` part. As a result, both the `front` and `back` parts will be instantiated with a cloned copy of all the points, paths, and snippets of the `base` part. diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/shared-dimensions/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/shared-dimensions/en.md index 59f95ef75cd..0bcefb3d744 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/shared-dimensions/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/shared-dimensions/en.md @@ -48,7 +48,7 @@ import { dimensions } from './shared' -Since our shared dimension method is a so-called *named export* we need to +Since our shared dimension method is a so-called _named export_ we need to import it with the syntax you see above. diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/storing-path-length/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/storing-path-length/en.md index 5c478d9559d..044dcfe8091 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/code/storing-path-length/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/code/storing-path-length/en.md @@ -12,7 +12,7 @@ about: Shows how to store a seam length so you can true the seam of another part -Often when designing patterns, we need to *true a seam* which means to make sure +Often when designing patterns, we need to _true a seam_ which means to make sure that two parts that need to be joined together are the same distance. The example below is from Aaron and stores the length of the armhole seam: diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/design/slash-spread/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/design/slash-spread/en.md index dbd705ed701..79e07625b3c 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/design/slash-spread/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/design/slash-spread/en.md @@ -12,7 +12,7 @@ about: Slash and spread is easy enough on paper, here's how to do it in code -When we *slash and spread* a pattern, we cut out a triangle, and then rotate it +When we _slash and spread_ a pattern, we cut out a triangle, and then rotate it around the tip of the triangle. And that's exactly what we do in code. We just need to know: diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/en.md index 6cabfd16308..146ec4e59ea 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/en.md @@ -13,7 +13,7 @@ You can find a list of all FreeSewing hotwtos below: Howtos give your concrete steps to solve a common problem or challenge. -Guides and howtos are on a spectrum with howtos being terse *do-this-then-that* recipes, whereas +Guides and howtos are on a spectrum with howtos being terse _do-this-then-that_ recipes, whereas guides take more time to explain in-depth what is being done and why. For more details, refer to [How we structure our documentation](/guides/docs). diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/environments/browser/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/environments/browser/en.md index cf728dea4cd..5765789f0eb 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/environments/browser/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/environments/browser/en.md @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ you can generate patterns in the browser with a few lines of Javascript. ##### Use FreeSewing.org if you just want a pattern These instructions are intended for people who want to generate -their own patterns. If you *just want a sewing pattern* you can +their own patterns. If you _just want a sewing pattern_ you can get all our designs on [FreeSewing.org](https://FreeSewing.org/), our website for makers. diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/environments/nodejs/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/environments/nodejs/en.md index 6642adcf1e8..6f316364bad 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/environments/nodejs/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/environments/nodejs/en.md @@ -12,7 +12,7 @@ generate a pattern. ##### Use FreeSewing.org if you just want a pattern These instructions are intended for people who want to generate -their own patterns. If you *just want a sewing pattern* you can +their own patterns. If you _just want a sewing pattern_ you can get all our designs on [FreeSewing.org](https://FreeSewing.org/), our website for makers. diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/git/save-often/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/git/save-often/en.md index 8113fc16652..d7326766819 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/git/save-often/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/git/save-often/en.md @@ -17,7 +17,7 @@ spending much time to write a meaningful commit message: git add . && git commit -m "save" ``` -The way you can get the best of both worlds is by *rewriting history*. +The way you can get the best of both worlds is by _rewriting history_. Save as many times you want, and when you've gotten to the point where you feel like you've hit a good milestone, roll them all back and commit anew with a nice commit message that makes it seem you had it all figured diff --git a/markdown/dev/howtos/ways-to-contribute/en.md b/markdown/dev/howtos/ways-to-contribute/en.md index 572e33b0afd..55b67a10910 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/howtos/ways-to-contribute/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/howtos/ways-to-contribute/en.md @@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ Go ahead and read those, we'll wait. ## Good to know -With that out of the way, here's a few more things that are *good to know*: +With that out of the way, here's a few more things that are _good to know_: - Nobody gets paid to work on/for FreeSewing. We are a 100% volunteer organisation. - We have patrons who support us financially, but all the money that comes in goes to charity — diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/hide/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/hide/en.md index ff744987228..483e1c5725e 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/hide/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/hide/en.md @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ title: hide The `hide` key in the pattern configuration file allow you to configure parts that should be hidden by default. -*Hidden* means that they will be drafted, but not rendered. This is +_Hidden_ means that they will be drafted, but not rendered. This is typically used for a base part on which other parts are built. Note that hidden parts will be rendered when the user requests diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/inject/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/inject/en.md index 8e847c770f0..4062dbc2b17 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/inject/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/inject/en.md @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ title: inject The `inject` key in the pattern configuration file allow you to configure the rules for injecting one part into another. -By *injecting* we mean that rather than starting out with a fresh part, +By _injecting_ we mean that rather than starting out with a fresh part, you'll get a part that has the points, paths, and snippets of the injected part. ## Structure diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/options/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/options/en.md index 51cf65a9838..a50bbf06504 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/options/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/options/en.md @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ One of the things that sets FreeSewing apart is that sewing patterns are not static. Each pattern is generated on the spot to accommodate the input provided by the user. Input that typically includes their measurments. -This *made-to-measure* approach is sort of *our thing* at FreeSewing, +This _made-to-measure_ approach is sort of _our thing_ at FreeSewing, but why stop there? There's a lot of things that can be left up to the user and taken into consideration when drafting the pattern. Things like how many buttons to use, diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/options/mm/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/options/mm/en.md index 6f5c5cc2e52..ad315010c37 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/options/mm/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/options/mm/en.md @@ -34,13 +34,13 @@ options: { ##### What's wrong with millimeter options? Millimeter options do not scale. -Parametric design is the *raison d'être* of FreeSewing and that core belief +Parametric design is the _raison d'être_ of FreeSewing and that core belief that things should seamlessly adapt goes out the window when you use a `mm` option because now you have a value that will not change based on the input measurements. -You could argue that it's fine because *you can just lower the option* -but that breaks the principle of *sensible defaults* (aka no surprises). +You could argue that it's fine because _you can just lower the option_ +but that breaks the principle of _sensible defaults_ (aka no surprises). The fact that you can sidestep the bullet does not mean you're not creating a footgun. diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/options/pct/snap/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/options/pct/snap/en.md index 5a4d05e1ef7..699ff3d232e 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/options/pct/snap/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/options/pct/snap/en.md @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ title: Snapped percentage options Snapped percentage options are a hybrid between [list options][list] and [percentage options][pct]. By combining traits of both, they create a -sort of *smart list option* that will select the most appropriate value +sort of _smart list option_ that will select the most appropriate value from the list, and also allow a pure parametric value if no close match is found. @@ -28,7 +28,7 @@ There are three different scenarios: ### snap holds a number -When `snap` holds a number, the option will be *snapped* to a +When `snap` holds a number, the option will be _snapped_ to a multiple of this value. In the example below, the absolute value of this option will be set to a multiple of `7` @@ -54,7 +54,7 @@ of all possible inputs. ### snap holds an array of numbers -When snap holds an array of numbers, the option will be *snapped* to one of +When snap holds an array of numbers, the option will be _snapped_ to one of the numbers unless it's further away than half the distance to its closest neighbor. In the example below, if the absolute value returned by `toAbs()` is in the @@ -151,9 +151,9 @@ We combine approaches A and B and configure a snapped percentage option with: - A percentage based on `waistToFloor` -- Our list of standard elastic widths as *snaps* +- Our list of standard elastic widths as _snaps_ -For typical humans, our options will *snap* to the closest match in our +For typical humans, our options will _snap_ to the closest match in our list and behave just like Approach A (with a list option). For dolls and giants, the option will revert to the parametric value and diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/ui/optiongroups/advanced-option-group/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/ui/optiongroups/advanced-option-group/en.md index 9403b16bf11..7791e38442f 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/ui/optiongroups/advanced-option-group/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/config/ui/optiongroups/advanced-option-group/en.md @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ title: The advanced option group --- Naming an option group `advanced` will hide it by default from the user -unless they enable *expert mode*. +unless they enable _expert mode_. ```js optionGroups: { diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/design/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/design/en.md index d7c8921f10e..105ae9fa98f 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/design/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/design/en.md @@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ const Sorcha = new freesewing.Design(config, plugins) -This method is a *super-constructor*. It will return a constructor +This method is a _super-constructor_. It will return a constructor method that will become the default export of your design and should be called to instantiate your pattern. diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/hooks/inserttext/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/hooks/inserttext/en.md index af9aadce745..74cc84d856a 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/hooks/inserttext/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/hooks/inserttext/en.md @@ -17,7 +17,7 @@ in [our i18n plugin](/reference/plugins/i18n/). ## Understanding the insertText hook -When we say that *this hook is called when text is about to be inserted*, that is a simplified view. +When we say that _this hook is called when text is about to be inserted_, that is a simplified view. In reality, this hook is called: - For every value set on data-text diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/bartack/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/bartack/en.md index 295f17f654f..1aaaa9ea91b 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/bartack/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/bartack/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: bartack --- -The `bartack` macro allows you to add a *bartack* marker to your sewing pattern. +The `bartack` macro allows you to add a _bartack_ marker to your sewing pattern. It is provided by the [bartack plugin](/reference/plugins/bartack/). diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/bartackalong/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/bartackalong/en.md index 740733e3a2e..2c71aedd06b 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/bartackalong/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/bartackalong/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: bartackAlong --- -The `bartackAlong` macro allows you to add a *bartack* marker to your sewing pattern. +The `bartackAlong` macro allows you to add a _bartack_ marker to your sewing pattern. More specifically, a bartack along a path. It is provided by the [bartack plugin](/reference/plugins/bartack/). diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/bartackfractionalong/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/bartackfractionalong/en.md index 7780eda9356..3983e6d45aa 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/bartackfractionalong/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/bartackfractionalong/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: bartackFractionAlong --- -The `bartackFractionAlong` macro allows you to add a *bartack* marker to your sewing pattern. +The `bartackFractionAlong` macro allows you to add a _bartack_ marker to your sewing pattern. More specifically, a bartack along a fraction of a path. It is provided by the [bartack plugin](/reference/plugins/bartack/). diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/cutonfold/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/cutonfold/en.md index 39ea5340cf7..f18b933b6a2 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/cutonfold/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/cutonfold/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: cutonfold --- -The `cutonfold` macro adds a *cut on fold* indicator to your pattern.\ +The `cutonfold` macro adds a _cut on fold_ indicator to your pattern.\ It is provided by the [cutonfold plugin](/reference/plugins/cutonfold). @@ -19,8 +19,8 @@ macro('cutonfold', { | Property | Default | Type | Description | |------------:|---------|---------------------|-------------| -| `from` | | [Point](/reference/api/point) | The startpoint of the *cut on fold* indicator | -| `to` | | [Point](/reference/api/point) | The endpoint of the *cut on fold* indicator | +| `from` | | [Point](/reference/api/point) | The startpoint of the _cut on fold_ indicator | +| `to` | | [Point](/reference/api/point) | The endpoint of the _cut on fold_ indicator | | `margin` | 5 | [Point](/reference/api/point) | The distance in % to keep from the start/end edge | | `offset` | 15 | Number | The distance in mm to offset from the line from start to end | | `grainline` | `false` | Boolean | Whether this cutonfold indicator is also the grainline | diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/gore/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/gore/en.md index d437db690b1..58d9ee0c4cd 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/gore/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/gore/en.md @@ -22,7 +22,7 @@ macro("gore", { |--------------:|---------|------------|----------------------------------------------| | `from` | | [Point][2] | The point to start drafting the gore from | | `radius` | | number | The radius of the sphere the gores should cover | -| `gores` | | number | The text to put on the *grainline* indicator | +| `gores` | | number | The text to put on the _grainline_ indicator | | `extraLength` | | number | The length of the straight section after a complete semisphere | | `render` | `false` | boolean | Whether or not to render the generated path | | `class` | | boolean | Any classes to add to the generated path | diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/grainline/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/grainline/en.md index 3cb9b700e28..cd5e1d77070 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/grainline/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/grainline/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: grainline --- -The `grainline` macro adds a *grainline* indicator to your pattern.\ +The `grainline` macro adds a _grainline_ indicator to your pattern.\ It is provided by the [grainline plugin](/reference/plugins/grainline/). @@ -18,8 +18,8 @@ macro("grainline", { | Property | Default | Type | Description | |------------:|-------------|------------|----------------------------------------------| -| `from` | | [Point][1] | The startpoint of the *grainline* indicator | -| `to` | | [Point][1] | The endpoint of the *grainline* indicator | -| `text` | 'grainline' | string | The text to put on the *grainline* indicator | +| `from` | | [Point][1] | The startpoint of the _grainline_ indicator | +| `to` | | [Point][1] | The endpoint of the _grainline_ indicator | +| `text` | 'grainline' | string | The text to put on the _grainline_ indicator | [1]: /reference/api/point diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/hd/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/hd/en.md index 434fb0cfaac..409a0eaae96 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/hd/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/hd/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: hd --- -The `hd` macro adds a *horizontal dimension* to your pattern.\ +The `hd` macro adds a _horizontal dimension_ to your pattern.\ It is provided by the [dimension plugin](/reference/plugins/dimension/). diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/ld/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/ld/en.md index b8385d45e3e..dd0e4b02fb1 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/ld/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/ld/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: ld --- -The `ld` macro adds a *linear dimension* to your pattern.\ +The `ld` macro adds a _linear dimension_ to your pattern.\ It is provided by the [dimension plugin](/reference/plugins/dimension/). diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/miniscale/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/miniscale/en.md index 81289c1651e..19b5cd82ae5 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/miniscale/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/miniscale/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: miniscale --- -The `miniscale` macro adds a mini *scale box* to your pattern. This box allows +The `miniscale` macro adds a mini _scale box_ to your pattern. This box allows users to verify their pattern is printed to scale. The `miniscale` macro is provided by the [scalebox plugin](/reference/plugins/scalebox). @@ -20,5 +20,5 @@ macro('miniscale', { | Property | Default | Type | Description | |-------------|---------|---------------------|-------------| -| `at` | | [Point](/reference/api/point) | The point to anchor the *scale box* on | +| `at` | | [Point](/reference/api/point) | The point to anchor the _scale box_ on | | `rotate` | 0 | Number | Rotation in degrees | diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/mirror/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/mirror/en.md index 619f69aa15d..9e34e6799c0 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/mirror/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/mirror/en.md @@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ macro('sprinkle', { | Property | Default | Type | Description | |-------------:|------------|------------|-------------| -| `mirror` | | `array` | Array with 2 [Point](/reference/api/point) objects that define the *mirror line* | +| `mirror` | | `array` | Array with 2 [Point](/reference/api/point) objects that define the _mirror line_ | | `clone` | `true` | `bool` | Whether to clone mirrored points and or paths | | `points` | | `array` | An array of [Point](/reference/api/point) objects | | `paths` | | `array` | An array of [Path](/reference/api/path) objects | diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/pd/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/pd/en.md index 1e86bb8b17d..79aacc718ac 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/pd/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/pd/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: pd --- -The `pd` macro adds a *path dimension* to your pattern, indicating the length of a path.\ +The `pd` macro adds a _path dimension_ to your pattern, indicating the length of a path.\ It is provided by the [dimension plugin](/reference/plugins/dimension/). diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/scalebox/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/scalebox/en.md index 31a58a36e8f..8aa60faee1e 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/scalebox/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/scalebox/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: scalebox --- -The `scalebox` macro adds a *scale box* to your pattern. This box allows +The `scalebox` macro adds a _scale box_ to your pattern. This box allows users to verify their pattern is printed to scale. The `scalebox` macro is provided by the [scalebox plugin](/reference/plugins/scalebox). @@ -19,9 +19,9 @@ macro('scalebox', { | Property | Default | Type | Description | |-------------|---------|---------------------|-------------| -| `at` | | [Point](/reference/api/point) | The point to anchor the *scale box* on | +| `at` | | [Point](/reference/api/point) | The point to anchor the _scale box_ on | | `lead` | FreeSewing | String | The lead text above the title | -| `title` | *pattern name + version* | String | The title text | +| `title` | _pattern name + version_ | String | The title text | | `text` | (\*) | String | The text below the title | | `rotate` | 0 | Number | Rotation in degrees | diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/vd/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/vd/en.md index 34ecf2ab807..b5ea192a350 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/vd/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/macros/vd/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: vd --- -The `vd` macro adds a *vertical dimension* to your pattern.\ +The `vd` macro adds a _vertical dimension_ to your pattern.\ It is provided by the [dimension plugin](/reference/plugins/dimension/). diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/path/shiftalong/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/path/shiftalong/en.md index 249a9ce1802..bda434d566f 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/path/shiftalong/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/path/shiftalong/en.md @@ -45,7 +45,7 @@ snippets.x2 = new Snippet("notch", points.x2); ##### The second parameter is optional -The second parameter controls the precision by which the path will be *walked*. +The second parameter controls the precision by which the path will be _walked_. By default, we'll divide it into 25 steps per mm. If you don't need that precision, you can pass a lower number. diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/path/shiftfractionalong/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/path/shiftfractionalong/en.md index e5c98c6c664..1672c60cc41 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/path/shiftfractionalong/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/path/shiftfractionalong/en.md @@ -45,7 +45,7 @@ snippets.x2 = new Snippet("notch", points.x2); ##### The second parameter is optional -The second parameter controls the precision by which the path will be *walked*. +The second parameter controls the precision by which the path will be _walked_. By default, we'll divide it into 25 steps per mm. If you don't need that precision, you can pass a lower number. diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/sample/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/sample/en.md index 7bbfdfeccdc..60da4200d11 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/sample/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/sample/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: Pattern.sample() --- -A pattern's `sample()` method will *sample* the pattern which means +A pattern's `sample()` method will _sample_ the pattern which means to draft it in different iterations while adjusting the input settings. Under the hood, this method will call one of [Pattern.sampleOption()](/reference/apu/pattern/sampleoption), diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/samplemeasurement/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/samplemeasurement/en.md index b335cdfa0c1..e1e09f0336f 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/samplemeasurement/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/samplemeasurement/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: Pattern.sampleMeasurement() --- -A pattern's `sampleMeasurement()` method will *sample* a given measurement, +A pattern's `sampleMeasurement()` method will _sample_ a given measurement, which means to draft it in different iterations while adjusting the input value of the given measurement. In practice, it will draft 10 iterations of the pattern diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/samplemodels/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/samplemodels/en.md index 6a8efc43c08..9eac3be9e17 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/samplemodels/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/samplemodels/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: Pattern.sampleModels() --- -A pattern's `sampleModels()` method will *sample* a pattern for a list of +A pattern's `sampleModels()` method will _sample_ a pattern for a list of models you pass to it. It will draft different iterations of the pattern, using the measurements for each model you pass to it. @@ -51,7 +51,7 @@ The (optional) string you can pass as the second parameter should hold the key of one of the models in the first parameter. In our example above, it could hold `modelName2` for example. -By passing this second parameter, you can put the *focus* on one of the models, +By passing this second parameter, you can put the _focus_ on one of the models, which will influence the render style, and make it easier to see a comparison between a given set of measrurements, and the rest. diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/sampleoption/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/sampleoption/en.md index eadb0daf706..e4325714055 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/sampleoption/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/pattern/sampleoption/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: Pattern.sampleOption() --- -A pattern's `sampleOption()` method will *sample* a given option, +A pattern's `sampleOption()` method will _sample_ a given option, which means to draft it in different iterations while adjusting the input value of the given option. The practical implementation varies based on [the type of option](/config/options/): diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/point/copy/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/point/copy/en.md index 3d92c2a7397..7b78485ab29 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/point/copy/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/point/copy/en.md @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ title: Point.copy() --- A point's `copy()` method returns a new point with the same coordinates as the original point. -This method does *not* copy any attributes the original point may have. +This method does _not_ copy any attributes the original point may have. ## Point.copy() signature diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/point/sitson/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/point/sitson/en.md index 744dcaa2f01..9552f016b04 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/point/sitson/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/point/sitson/en.md @@ -2,13 +2,13 @@ title: Point.sitsOn() --- -Returns `true` if this point has the *exact* same coordinates as the point you pass to it. +Returns `true` if this point has the _exact_ same coordinates as the point you pass to it. ###### Too exact? -This method is *very* precise, so points with an X-coordinate of `10` and `10.0001` +This method is _very_ precise, so points with an X-coordinate of `10` and `10.0001` are considered to be different. To check if two points have the same coordinates rounded to the nearest diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/beamintersectscircle/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/beamintersectscircle/en.md index 34a6c448153..92183e8d043 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/beamintersectscircle/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/beamintersectscircle/en.md @@ -15,7 +15,7 @@ array | false utils.beamIntersectsCircle( Finds the intersection between an endless line through points `point1` and `point2` and a circle with its center at point `center` and a radius of `radius` mm. -The 5th and last parameter controls the *sorting* of the found intersections. +The 5th and last parameter controls the _sorting_ of the found intersections. This will (almost) always return 2 intersections, and you can choose how they are ordered in the returned array: diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/circlesintersect/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/circlesintersect/en.md index c1e1487a9bf..087a06e2209 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/circlesintersect/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/circlesintersect/en.md @@ -14,7 +14,7 @@ array | false utils.circlesIntersect( Finds the intersections between two circles described by their center point and radius. -The 5th and last parameter controls the *sorting* of the found intersections. +The 5th and last parameter controls the _sorting_ of the found intersections. When this returns 2 intersections, you can choose how they are ordered in the returned array: Set sort to: diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/lineintersectscircle/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/lineintersectscircle/en.md index 903833ff50e..3355b7a2748 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/lineintersectscircle/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/lineintersectscircle/en.md @@ -15,7 +15,7 @@ array | false utils.lineIntersectsCircle( Finds the intersection between a line segment from point `from` to point `to` and a circle with its center at point `center` and a radius of `radius` mm. -The 5th and last parameter controls the *sorting* of the found intersections. +The 5th and last parameter controls the _sorting_ of the found intersections. When this returns 2 intersections, you can choose how they are ordered in the returned array: Set sort to: diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/stretchtoscale/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/stretchtoscale/en.md index 6f2091ed4d1..9f4cf956fa8 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/stretchtoscale/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/api/utils/stretchtoscale/en.md @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ float utils.stretchToScale(float stretch) The way people measure stretch intuitively is different from the way we handle stretch in code. -When people say *25% stretch* they mean that 10cm fabric gets stretched to 12.5cm fabric. +When people say _25% stretch_ they mean that 10cm fabric gets stretched to 12.5cm fabric. In code and on our patterns, that means we need to scale things by 80%. This method does that by returning: diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/plugins/dimension/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/plugins/dimension/en.md index 4c95286a10f..f1fed6a0e67 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/plugins/dimension/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/plugins/dimension/en.md @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ title: "@freesewing/plugin-dimension" --- The **@freesewing/plugin-dimension** plugin provides a variety of macros -to facilitate adding *dimensions* to your design. By *dimensions* we mean +to facilitate adding _dimensions_ to your design. By _dimensions_ we mean the indicators for distance that are added to patterns in [paperless mode](/reference/api/settings/paperless). diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/plugins/grainline/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/plugins/grainline/en.md index f4a6ed519dd..284f53e01f9 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/plugins/grainline/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/plugins/grainline/en.md @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ title: "@freesewing/plugin-grainline" --- The **@freesewing/plugin-grainline** plugin provides [the grainline -macro](/reference/macros/grainline/) which adds a *grainline* indicator +macro](/reference/macros/grainline/) which adds a _grainline_ indicator to your design. An example of the grainline macro diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/plugins/sprinkle/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/plugins/sprinkle/en.md index e60649d2a42..c4daded278b 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/plugins/sprinkle/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/plugins/sprinkle/en.md @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ title: "@freesewing/plugin-sprinkle" The **@freesewing/plugin-sprinkle** plugin provides [the sprinkle macro](/reference/api/macros/sprinkle/) which is a faster way to add several of the same snippets to your designs (think of it as -*sprinkling* them onto your parts). +_sprinkling_ them onto your parts). An example of the sprinkle macro diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/terms/commit/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/terms/commit/en.md index d2d94ba3934..dfc8b00290f 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/terms/commit/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/terms/commit/en.md @@ -4,4 +4,4 @@ title: Commit A [commit](https://github.com/git-guides/git-commit) is made every time somebody publishes an update to our source code. -The word is also used as a verb as in *to commit changes*. +The word is also used as a verb as in _to commit changes_. diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/terms/discord/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/terms/discord/en.md index 4448fe2c7d8..b0aa98ebf5d 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/terms/discord/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/terms/discord/en.md @@ -4,4 +4,4 @@ title: Discord The name of our chat provider that powers our chat at https://discord.freesewing.org/ -When you hear *discord* just think *chat*. +When you hear _discord_ just think _chat_. diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/terms/freesewing.org/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/terms/freesewing.org/en.md index d7ce58d3a0d..4c31cae2bea 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/terms/freesewing.org/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/terms/freesewing.org/en.md @@ -19,7 +19,7 @@ built with Gatsby. ## i18n -Short of *internationalisation*. within the context of FreeSewing, this mostly +Short of _internationalisation_. within the context of FreeSewing, this mostly means translation, but can also relate to other intenationalisation concerns such as the type of units to use, or paper sizes, and so on. diff --git a/markdown/dev/reference/terms/i18n/en.md b/markdown/dev/reference/terms/i18n/en.md index f88e6a9b815..7d805b7533c 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/reference/terms/i18n/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/reference/terms/i18n/en.md @@ -2,6 +2,6 @@ title: i18n --- -Short for *internationalisation*. Within the context of FreeSewing, this mostly +Short for _internationalisation_. Within the context of FreeSewing, this mostly means translation, but can also relate to other internationalisation concerns such as the type of units to use, or paper sizes, and so on. diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-linux/installing-nvm/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-linux/installing-nvm/en.md index e200c81681b..e45c09651fc 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-linux/installing-nvm/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-linux/installing-nvm/en.md @@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ order: 10 FreeSewing is built with [Node.js](https://nodejs.org/), a JavaScript runtime. You'll need to install Node JS on your system, and to do so, we'll -use [nvm](https://github.com/nvm-sh/nvm), short for *Node version manager*. +use [nvm](https://github.com/nvm-sh/nvm), short for _Node version manager_. Using nvm has a number of benefits in comparison with installing Node from the node.js website, or from a package provided by your linux distribution: diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-linux/node-versions/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-linux/node-versions/en.md index e1c4285d67d..340fa616b2d 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-linux/node-versions/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-linux/node-versions/en.md @@ -18,7 +18,7 @@ nvm ls ``` It will show you a list of local node versions. -Either the version number, or an *alias* that points to a specific version. +Either the version number, or an _alias_ that points to a specific version. You should see the `lts/*` alias in the list which is what we've just installed. ### nvm ls-remote diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-mac/installing-nvm/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-mac/installing-nvm/en.md index 64cb41b7ecc..3e1e7e4afb1 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-mac/installing-nvm/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-mac/installing-nvm/en.md @@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ order: 20 FreeSewing is built with [Node.js](https://nodejs.org/), a JavaScript runtime. You'll need to install Node JS on your system, and to do so, we'll -use [nvm](https://github.com/nvm-sh/nvm), short for *Node version manager*. +use [nvm](https://github.com/nvm-sh/nvm), short for _Node version manager_. Using nvm has a number of benefits in comparison with installing Node from the node.js website, or from a package provided by Homebrew or your OS distribution: diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-mac/installing-xcode/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-mac/installing-xcode/en.md index ca9b37506af..ca12e80fe6f 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-mac/installing-xcode/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-mac/installing-xcode/en.md @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ order: 10 --- Before we can get started, we need some basic tools for development. -They are bundled in the *Xcode command-line tools* so let's install +They are bundled in the _Xcode command-line tools_ so let's install that first. Open the Terminal application, and type the following command: diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-mac/node-versions/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-mac/node-versions/en.md index 51807a74010..967b8d004b7 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-mac/node-versions/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/getting-started-mac/node-versions/en.md @@ -18,7 +18,7 @@ nvm ls ``` It will show you a list of local node versions. -Either the version number, or an *alias* that points to a specific version. +Either the version number, or an _alias_ that points to a specific version. You should see the `lts/*` alias in the list which is what we've just installed. ### nvm ls-remote diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/adding-measurements/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/adding-measurements/en.md index c8e203d622f..14df5643315 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/adding-measurements/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/adding-measurements/en.md @@ -3,13 +3,13 @@ title: Adding measurements order: 130 --- -FreeSewing is all about *made-to-measure* sewing patterns; +FreeSewing is all about _made-to-measure_ sewing patterns; we are going to draft our pattern according to the measurements provided to us. Which begs the question, which measurements? It is you, as the pattern designer, who decides which measurements are required to draft your pattern. -For our bib, the only measurement we need is the baby's *head circumference*. +For our bib, the only measurement we need is the baby's _head circumference_. So let's add it as a required measurement. diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/adding-options/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/adding-options/en.md index c019cf35069..0a277d7253d 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/adding-options/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/adding-options/en.md @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ title: Adding options order: 140 --- -You know what your bib should look like, and you have the *head* measurement +You know what your bib should look like, and you have the _head_ measurement to work with. But there's still a number of choices you have to make: - How large should the neck opening be? diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/completing-your-pattern/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/completing-your-pattern/en.md index e42a8fbff6d..00bc6d3a58c 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/completing-your-pattern/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/completing-your-pattern/en.md @@ -22,8 +22,8 @@ export default function(part) { } ``` -So far, we've kept to the *// Design pattern here* area, but now we're going to work on -the area under *// Complete?* +So far, we've kept to the _// Design pattern here_ area, but now we're going to work on +the area under _// Complete?_ @@ -122,7 +122,7 @@ However, for future refefence, `sa` is a variable that you can get from `part.sh just like `complete`. But instead of `true` or `false` it will hold the amount of seam allowance in mm. -Note that you can still do `if (sa)` because zero is *falsy*. +Note that you can still do `if (sa)` because zero is _falsy_. We won't be adding seam allowance, but we will be doing something that is essentially the same. Rather than draw an outline outside our bib to indicate the seam allowance, we'll draw one within @@ -170,10 +170,10 @@ points.scalebox = points.title.shift(-90, 55) macro("scalebox", { at: points.scalebox }) ``` -And with that, our pattern is now *complete*: +And with that, our pattern is now _complete_: We used attributes to add color, dashes, text on a path and even opacity -We're not done yet though. There's one more thing the user can ask for: a *paperless* pattern. +We're not done yet though. There's one more thing the user can ask for: a _paperless_ pattern. diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/constructing-the-neck-opening/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/constructing-the-neck-opening/en.md index b0c49e00dc5..0caf3af6cfc 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/constructing-the-neck-opening/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/constructing-the-neck-opening/en.md @@ -62,7 +62,7 @@ points.rightCp1 = points.right .shift(90, points.bottom.dy(points.right)/2) ``` -- We're adding a point named `rightCp1`, which will become the *control point* of the right part +- We're adding a point named `rightCp1`, which will become the _control point_ of the right part - Instead of using the Point constructor, we're calling the `Point.shift()` method on an existing point - It takes two arguments: The angle to shift towards, and the distance - You can see that we're shifting 90 degrees (that means up) but the distance uses another method diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/drawing-the-straps/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/drawing-the-straps/en.md index b9b569a9ad7..b479ff883df 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/drawing-the-straps/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/drawing-the-straps/en.md @@ -124,5 +124,5 @@ it doesn't look much different. We'll use some other classes later that will mak -It's looking pretty good. But those sharp corners at the bottom don't exactly say *baby* do they? +It's looking pretty good. But those sharp corners at the bottom don't exactly say _baby_ do they? Let's fix that. diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/fitting-the-neck-opening/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/fitting-the-neck-opening/en.md index 6a7051243fa..2097a3ed9c9 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/fitting-the-neck-opening/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/fitting-the-neck-opening/en.md @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ title: Fitting the neck opening order: 170 --- -Here's how we'll make sure the neck opening is *just right*: +Here's how we'll make sure the neck opening is _just right_: ```js let tweak = 1 @@ -28,7 +28,7 @@ do { We've added a few new variables: -- `tweak`: A *tweak factor* that we'll use to increase or decrease the neck opening by making it more or less than 1 +- `tweak`: A _tweak factor_ that we'll use to increase or decrease the neck opening by making it more or less than 1 - `target`: How long our (quarter) neck opening should be - `delta`: How far we're off. Positive numbers mean it's too long, negative means too short diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/paperless-bib/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/paperless-bib/en.md index a6eb697cb11..fd6f67965f5 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/paperless-bib/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/paperless-bib/en.md @@ -25,7 +25,7 @@ let { } = part.shorthand() ``` -The idea behind *paperless patterns* is that users don't need to print your +The idea behind _paperless patterns_ is that users don't need to print your pattern in order to use it. Instead, we include dimensions on the pattern that allows them to transfer the pattern directly onto fabric, or onto an intermediate medium such as tracing paper. @@ -81,7 +81,7 @@ if (paperless) { } ``` -There's a lot going on, but it's mostly repetition. To see what that did to your pattern, you have to enable *paperless mode* in your developing environment; you can find the option under *Pattern options* on the right. Let's look at the end result, and discuss: +There's a lot going on, but it's mostly repetition. To see what that did to your pattern, you have to enable _paperless mode_ in your developing environment; you can find the option under _Pattern options_ on the right. Let's look at the end result, and discuss: Your paperless bib diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/part-structure/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/part-structure/en.md index 04df359884f..2cccf4a95f8 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/part-structure/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/part-structure/en.md @@ -45,7 +45,7 @@ This is the boilerplate of our `draftBib` method. It takes the part as an argume -If you're new to JavaScript, and don't intuitively *get this*, stick with it. It will become second nature soon enough. +If you're new to JavaScript, and don't intuitively _get this_, stick with it. It will become second nature soon enough. @@ -61,7 +61,7 @@ let { ``` This is FreeSewing's **shorthand** method. It returns an object with a bunch of handy helpers -and you use JavaScript's *object destructuring* to only get what you need. +and you use JavaScript's _object destructuring_ to only get what you need. The example above makes the following variables available: @@ -75,9 +75,9 @@ These will make it possible for you to draw points and paths easily. The following three variables are also needed to create a full-fledged FreeSewing pattern; their function and usage will be covered in detail [later on in this tutorial](/tutorials/pattern-design/completing-your-pattern/): -- `complete`: create a *complete* pattern (or not) -- `sa`: include *seam allowance* (or not) -- `paperless`: allow the pattern to be *paperless* +- `complete`: create a _complete_ pattern (or not) +- `sa`: include _seam allowance_ (or not) +- `paperless`: allow the pattern to be _paperless_ For now, we only need these so that the pattern skeleton compiles properly. diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/testing-your-pattern/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/testing-your-pattern/en.md index 931f7e624b1..501d29d13e7 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/testing-your-pattern/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/testing-your-pattern/en.md @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ and the range of options we provided. ###### No more grading -FreeSewing patterns are *made-to-measure*, which means that you don't need to +FreeSewing patterns are _made-to-measure_, which means that you don't need to grade your pattern to provide a range of sizes. You should sample your pattern for different measurements and options to see how well it adapts. @@ -87,13 +87,13 @@ If we test it, we can see that it works as intended. But there's one thing that Making the bib wider shortens the length from the bottom of the neck opening to the bottom of the bib. Thereby making the bib shorter when it's worn. -Even if the *total length* of the bib stays the same, the *useable length* shortens when the bib is made wider. +Even if the _total length_ of the bib stays the same, the _useable length_ shortens when the bib is made wider. Users will not expect this, so it's something that we should fix in our pattern. -Adjusting the pattern to make the `widthRatio` not influence the *useable length* of the bib is not -covered in this tutorial. It is left *as an exercise to the reader*. +Adjusting the pattern to make the `widthRatio` not influence the _useable length_ of the bib is not +covered in this tutorial. It is left _as an exercise to the reader_. @@ -137,7 +137,7 @@ Your bib with the head circumference measurement sampled ## Testing models Whereas testing a measurement will only vary one individual measurement, testing models will -draft your pattern for different sets of measurments, which we refer to as *models*. +draft your pattern for different sets of measurments, which we refer to as _models_. On the surface, the result below is the same as our measurement test. But that is because our bib only uses one measurement. So testing that one measurement ends up being the same as testing a complete @@ -173,16 +173,16 @@ Your bib sampled for a range of baby sizes ## The antperson test -A special case of model testing is the so-called *antperson test*. -It drafts your pattern with a set of *typical* measurements , and then drafts it again -with measurements that are 1/10th of those *typical* measurements. +A special case of model testing is the so-called _antperson test_. +It drafts your pattern with a set of _typical_ measurements , and then drafts it again +with measurements that are 1/10th of those _typical_ measurements. It is named after [the cartoon character](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ant-Man_\(film\)) who can shrink, yet somehow his suit still fits. The purpose of the antperson test is to bring out areas in your pattern where you made assumptions that will not properly scale. -Many drafting books will tell you to *add 3cm there* or *measure 2 inch to the right*. Those instructions +Many drafting books will tell you to _add 3cm there_ or _measure 2 inch to the right_. Those instructions don't scale, and you should avoid them. The best patterns will pass the antperson test with 2 patterns exactly the same, where one will simply be 1/10th the scale of the other. diff --git a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/your-first-part/en.md b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/your-first-part/en.md index 727056d7d7e..12fd1d98e0f 100644 --- a/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/your-first-part/en.md +++ b/markdown/dev/tutorials/pattern-design/your-first-part/en.md @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ title: Your first part order: 120 --- -Much like garments themselves, patterns are made up of *parts*. +Much like garments themselves, patterns are made up of _parts_. Most patterns will have multiple parts. A sleeve, a back part, the collar, and so on. Our pattern is very simple, and only has one part: the bib. @@ -14,7 +14,7 @@ button in your browser, you'll get to see it: ![The default pattern with its box part](./step1.png) -Since we only need one part, we'll rename this *box* part, and call it *bib*. +Since we only need one part, we'll rename this _box_ part, and call it _bib_. ## Rename the box part to bib @@ -59,7 +59,7 @@ Pattern.prototype.draftBib = draftBib ###### Always use draftPartname -FreeSewing will expect for each part to find a method named Draft*Partname*. +FreeSewing will expect for each part to find a method named Draft\_Partname\_. If you have a part named `sleeve` you should have a method called `draftSleeve()` that drafts that part. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/faq/breasts/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/faq/breasts/en.md index 8deb47a7580..64f5082227f 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/faq/breasts/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/faq/breasts/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: "What's all this talk about with or without breasts?" --- -Some people get confused by the terms *with breasts* and *without breasts*. +Some people get confused by the terms _with breasts_ and _without breasts_. We use these terms as a gender-inclusive way to ask whether or not a person has breasts. @@ -13,11 +13,11 @@ These garment designs are usually based off of the ideal or average body. Meaning, for womenswear, the designer will likely make a garment for a body with breasts, narrow shoulders, a smaller waist and wide hips. -These characteristics are generally thought of as *the typical characteristics of a woman's body*. +These characteristics are generally thought of as _the typical characteristics of a woman's body_. However, we believe it is best to stay away from this; no body is average and we want to build a gender-inclusive environment. -We do not want to exclude anyone and we think that *body shape ≠ gender*. +We do not want to exclude anyone and we think that _body shape ≠ gender_. That's why we use the terminology **with breasts** and **without breasts**, simply asking whether a person has breast tissue or not. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/faq/sizes/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/faq/sizes/en.md index 45e7469cbf3..92cba4e166c 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/faq/sizes/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/faq/sizes/en.md @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ title: I know my size, but your pattern doesn't fit me The standard sizes we offer are there to allow you to discover our platform without the need to create an account. We advise against using them as-is. -Drafting made-to-measure sewing patterns really is *our thing*.\ +Drafting made-to-measure sewing patterns really is _our thing_.\ If you insist on getting a pattern in a standard size, FreeSewing is not for you. Thankfully, Fiona curates diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/faq/womenswear-blocks/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/faq/womenswear-blocks/en.md index b87010a1553..ca461c03389 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/faq/womenswear-blocks/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/faq/womenswear-blocks/en.md @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ title: Why do you even publish womenswear blocks? They are [insert strong opinio This question comes up every now and then. The wording varies, but the sentiment can be summarized as -*why even publish this garbage, it doesn't work at all*. +_why even publish this garbage, it doesn't work at all_. Let me start by saying that you are not wrong. Both [Breanna](/designs/breanna/) and [Bella](/designs/bella/) have serious shortcomings. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/guide/account/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/guide/account/en.md index b99c9a12c34..ca7584d29d7 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/guide/account/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/guide/account/en.md @@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ order: 300 To generate made-to-measure sewing patterns, we need measurements. Asking for them every time would be rather tedious, so we store them for you. -We need a place to store them, and that *place* is your account. +We need a place to store them, and that _place_ is your account. Your account data is stored on our backend, subject to [our privacy notice][1], and with respect for [your rights][2]. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/guide/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/guide/en.md index dbb1580325a..4f9d339d471 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/guide/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/guide/en.md @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ to save you a bunch of questions later, and make sure you get the most out of ou - We'll tell you [what FreeSewing is][1] and [what freesewing.org is][2] - We'll tell you about our [made-to-measure sewing patterns][3] - and what we mean by [*with breasts* vs *without breasts*][4] + and what we mean by [_with breasts_ vs _without breasts_][4] - We'll cover [why you need an account][5] what we mean by [your people][6] or [your patterns][7], and we talk about [measurements][8] - We'll go over [how you can configure your patterns][9] with design and pattern options diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/guide/measurements/estimates/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/guide/measurements/estimates/en.md index 95d6ea8634c..afdbaaf590a 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/guide/measurements/estimates/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/guide/measurements/estimates/en.md @@ -16,10 +16,10 @@ This estimate is based on your neck circumference, so this won't show up until y ##### This is a difficult area for us to work in We want to help you get the best results, and that includes helping you spot issues with your measurements. -On the other hand, we in no way want to imply that someone's measurements are *wrong* somehow. +On the other hand, we in no way want to imply that someone's measurements are _wrong_ somehow. We are an extremely size-inclusive pattern outlet, and a disproportionate amount of our users are people who struggle to find clothes or patterns from other outlets. -So on one hand, it might seem like we're setting ourselves up for failure by comparing measurements to a set of more or less *standard* measurements. +So on one hand, it might seem like we're setting ourselves up for failure by comparing measurements to a set of more or less _standard_ measurements. But you know your body. You know which of your measurements deviate from the average. And us pointing out that they do is in a way only confirmation that you've been measuring correctly. On the other hand, if something jumps out where you are fairly average sized, you know to double-check those measurements. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/guide/options/sa/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/guide/options/sa/en.md index 81e5841bd74..3f422933b15 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/guide/options/sa/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/guide/options/sa/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: Seam allowance --- -This controls whether you want *seam allowance* or not. +This controls whether you want _seam allowance_ or not. And, if you want it, how much you want. This will probably be self-explanatory if you know what seam allowance is. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/guide/options/scale/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/guide/options/scale/en.md index 916eb73cf11..a379531da1a 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/guide/options/scale/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/guide/options/scale/en.md @@ -9,5 +9,5 @@ line width and so on. It was specifically created to accommodate patterns for doll clothes and other situations where the text and snippets would become too large in comparison to the pattern. -You need to enable *Expert mode* after which you can find the scale setting -under *Advanced*. +You need to enable _Expert mode_ after which you can find the scale setting +under _Advanced_. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/guide/patterns/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/guide/patterns/en.md index d2bb4550073..4fc26c632de 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/guide/patterns/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/guide/patterns/en.md @@ -17,7 +17,7 @@ You can save as many patterns as you like. ##### Patterns vs Designs -If you came to this site looking for *patterns* you might have found them under *designs*. +If you came to this site looking for _patterns_ you might have found them under _designs_. It's not a super important distinction, but it helps to understand that: - **Design**: One of the styles that we offer. We've got dozens of designs, and you can try them all diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/guide/people/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/guide/people/en.md index fbe8386771d..749034d5818 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/guide/people/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/guide/people/en.md @@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ Once you have an account, you can start adding measurements. But that quickly brings up the next question: what if you want a pattern for you, but also for your partner? -That's why we have *people*. +That's why we have _people_. You create a person, and add measurements to that person. Now you can generate patterns for this person, based on their measurements. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hps/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hps/en.md index d26e50c209b..f026e27aa62 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hps/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hps/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: High Point Shoulder (HPS) --- -The *high point shoulder* or *HPS* point is used as the base for several vertical measurements. +The _high point shoulder_ or _HPS_ point is used as the base for several vertical measurements. The HPS is where your shoulder seam would meet your neck. The point is situated where your neck meets your shoulder. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hpstobust/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hpstobust/en.md index bf76d0147cf..b899e39c100 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hpstobust/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hpstobust/en.md @@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ title: HPS to bust ###### HPS: high point shoulder -The *high point shoulder* or *HPS* point is used as the base for several vertical measurements. +The _high point shoulder_ or _HPS_ point is used as the base for several vertical measurements. Refer to [the hps documentation](/docs/measurements/hps/) for information on how to locate this point. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hpstowaistback/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hpstowaistback/en.md index 4c98f0013d4..2129635c1b9 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hpstowaistback/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hpstowaistback/en.md @@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ title: HPS to waist back ###### HPS: high point shoulder -The *high point shoulder* or *HPS* point is used as the base for several vertical measurements. +The _high point shoulder_ or _HPS_ point is used as the base for several vertical measurements. Refer to [the hps documentation](/docs/measurements/hps/) for information on how to locate this point. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hpstowaistfront/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hpstowaistfront/en.md index 0f5c1068aaf..e0ce36ad280 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hpstowaistfront/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/measurements/hpstowaistfront/en.md @@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ title: HPS to waist front ###### HPS: high point shoulder -The *high point shoulder* or *HPS* point is used as the base for several vertical measurements. +The _high point shoulder_ or _HPS_ point is used as the base for several vertical measurements. Refer to [the hps documentation](/docs/measurements/hps/) for information on how to locate this point. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/aaron/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/aaron/instructions/en.md index 4e85bd9d2c0..8b548dc0bb3 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/aaron/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/aaron/instructions/en.md @@ -2,14 +2,14 @@ ![Close the side and shoulder seams](step01.png) -Put front and back on top of each other with *good sides together*. +Put front and back on top of each other with _good sides together_. Sew the side seams and the short seams at the shoulder straps. If you have a serger, this is a good moment to use it. If not, finish your seams otherwise. ## Step 2: Finish hem ![Finish the hem](step02.png) -Fold the hem upwards, and sew it down. If you have a coverlock, use it. If not, use a *twin needle* or *zig-zag stitch* to keep the seam stretchable. +Fold the hem upwards, and sew it down. If you have a coverlock, use it. If not, use a _twin needle_ or _zig-zag stitch_ to keep the seam stretchable. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/instructions/en.md index 799b85ef04f..e16d4260030 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/instructions/en.md @@ -9,11 +9,11 @@ title: Albert Construction - Press the seam allowance of the sides and bottom to the wrong side. - On the right side topstich close to where the hem edge lies underneath, making sure to catch the hem and seam allowances as you sew. - Pin the pocket to the front using the guides. -- *Edgestitch* the sides and bottom of the pocket leaving the top open. Make sure to backstitch at the start and end to secure the pocket properly. +- _Edgestitch_ the sides and bottom of the pocket leaving the top open. Make sure to backstitch at the start and end to secure the pocket properly. -If you have trouble catching the top hem we suggest to either *Baste* close to the hem edge first, and use that as a guide when stitching on the right side or pin the hem edge down from the right side making sure the pins are parallel to the top edge and use them as a guide. +If you have trouble catching the top hem we suggest to either _Baste_ close to the hem edge first, and use that as a guide when stitching on the right side or pin the hem edge down from the right side making sure the pins are parallel to the top edge and use them as a guide. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/options/biblength/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/options/biblength/en.md index 365084aa465..05cd6deb842 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/options/biblength/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/options/biblength/en.md @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -Controls the length of the *bib* part of your apron. +Controls the length of the _bib_ part of your apron. ## Effect of this option on the pattern diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/options/bibwidth/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/options/bibwidth/en.md index b212aa8fa2f..c18e5752e4a 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/options/bibwidth/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/options/bibwidth/en.md @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -Controls the width of the *bib* part of your apron. +Controls the width of the _bib_ part of your apron. ## Effect of this option on the pattern diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bee/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bee/instructions/en.md index 969873f764b..dc60360f1c8 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bee/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bee/instructions/en.md @@ -36,14 +36,14 @@ The notches in this pattern act more like dots so **do not** clip them to mark t #### Band Tie Variant -- With raw edges and main fabric together, *baste* one of the neck ties to the top of one of the cup pieces making sure that the tie goes towards the bottom of the cup. +- With raw edges and main fabric together, _baste_ one of the neck ties to the top of one of the cup pieces making sure that the tie goes towards the bottom of the cup. - With the neck tie sandwiched inside, pin a lining cup piece right sides together to the main cup piece. - Sew the lining to the main cup between notches along the front, top and side seams, making sure not to catch the neck tie and to reinforce the stitch at the notches. -- (Optional) Fold to the wrong side and *edgestitch* the seam allowance down between notches on the front and side seams. Do not sew the allowances together. +- (Optional) Fold to the wrong side and _edgestitch_ the seam allowance down between notches on the front and side seams. Do not sew the allowances together. - With good sides together, sew the lining to the main fabric along the bottom, leaving a gap between the side notches making sure to reinforce the stitch at the either end. - Trim the seam allowances of the sewn edges whilst leaving the seam allowance between the notches. Clip the corners. You may also need to clip the curved seams. - Turn inside out by pulling the neck tie through one of the gaps. Press. -- (Optional) *edgestitch* the top, sides and bottom of the cup leaving the gaps between the notches open. +- (Optional) _edgestitch_ the top, sides and bottom of the cup leaving the gaps between the notches open. - Stitch along casing line to create band channel. Repeat this for the other cup @@ -53,23 +53,23 @@ The notches in this pattern act more like dots so **do not** clip them to mark t If your seam allowance is wide you may find that you need to trim the gaps' seam allowances a little to reduce bulk.\ If you are having trouble turning the cups you can try one of these methods: -- Create a 2.5cm (1") gap in the front or side seam and turn throught that, either *slipstitch*-ing the gap closed or *edgestitch*-ing it closed during Step 7. -- Widen one of the existing gaps and turn through that. Then when turned *edgestitch* or *slipstitch* the widened part closed. +- Create a 2.5cm (1") gap in the front or side seam and turn throught that, either _slipstitch_-ing the gap closed or _edgestitch_-ing it closed during Step 7. +- Widen one of the existing gaps and turn through that. Then when turned _edgestitch_ or _slipstitch_ the widened part closed. -Whilst certainly optional it is recommended to *edgestitch* the top and sides of the cups but the bottom is entirely optional. +Whilst certainly optional it is recommended to _edgestitch_ the top and sides of the cups but the bottom is entirely optional. #### Cross Back Ties Variant -- With raw edges and main fabric together, *baste* one of the neck ties to the top of one of the cup pieces making sure that the tie goes towards the bottom of the cup. +- With raw edges and main fabric together, _baste_ one of the neck ties to the top of one of the cup pieces making sure that the tie goes towards the bottom of the cup. - With the neck tie sandwiched inside, pin a lining cup piece right sides together to the main cup piece. - Sew the lining to the main cup along the front, top and side seams, making sure not to catch the neck tie. - Turn the cups right side out and press. -- (Optional) *edgestitch* the top and sides of the cups. +- (Optional) _edgestitch_ the top and sides of the cups. - Sew a line of basting stitches along the bottom of the cups, just inside the seamline. - Gather cups along the basting stitches. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/breanna/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/breanna/cutting/en.md index be93fe2d86f..a1fd8c1bfb8 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/breanna/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/breanna/cutting/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ - Cut **1 Front** part on the fold. - Cut **2 Back** parts. -- Cut **2 Sleeve** parts, *good sides together*. +- Cut **2 Sleeve** parts, _good sides together_. These cutting instructions are just for the default Breanna block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/breanna/options/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/breanna/options/en.md index 6864bac0787..d1b90ac605b 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/breanna/options/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/breanna/options/en.md @@ -12,7 +12,7 @@ sleevecap is drafted makes it easy to understand what all the individual options ### The bounding box -The *bounding box* of the sleevecap is a rectangle that is as wide as the sleeve, and +The _bounding box_ of the sleevecap is a rectangle that is as wide as the sleeve, and as high as the sleevecap. Inside this box, we will construct our sleevecap later. ![The Breanna sleevecap](sleevecap.svg) @@ -59,7 +59,7 @@ be changed to lie more to the right or the left, rather than smack in the middle ![Controlling the inflection points](sleevecapinflection.svg) With points 1, 2, 3, and 4 in place, we have a box to draw our sleevecap in. Now it's time to -map out our *inflection points*. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement +map out our _inflection points_. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement is determined by the following 4 options: - [Sleevecap back X](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 5 @@ -79,10 +79,10 @@ are instrumental in creating the points that always lie on the sleevecap: the an ![Controlling the anchor points](sleevecapanchor.svg) Ultimately, our sleevecap will be the combination of 5 curves. In addition to points 1 and 2, -the four *anchor points* that are marked in orange in our example will be the start/finish of +the four _anchor points_ that are marked in orange in our example will be the start/finish of those curves. -The points are *offset* perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points +The points are _offset_ perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points surrounding them. The offset for each point is controlled by these 4 options: - [Sleevecap Q1 offset](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq1offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 2 to 6 @@ -107,7 +107,7 @@ control each quarter individually. We now have all the start and end points to draw the 5 curves that will make up our sleevecaps. What we're missing are the control points (see [our info on Bézier curves](https://freesewing.dev/concepts/beziercurves) to learn more -about how curves are constructed). These are determined by the so-called *spread*. +about how curves are constructed). These are determined by the so-called _spread_. For each of the anchor points (the ones marked in orange, not points 1 and 2) there is an option to control the spread upwards, and downwards: diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/brian/options/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/brian/options/en.md index cf2ec634a72..391c9e972e9 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/brian/options/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/brian/options/en.md @@ -12,7 +12,7 @@ sleevecap is drafted makes it easy to understand what all the individual options ### The bounding box -The *bounding box* of the sleevecap is a rectangle that is as wide as the sleeve, and +The _bounding box_ of the sleevecap is a rectangle that is as wide as the sleeve, and as high as the sleevecap. Inside this box, we will construct our sleevecap later. ![The Brian sleevecap](sleevecap.svg) @@ -59,7 +59,7 @@ be changed to lie more to the right or the left, rather than smack in the middle ![Controlling the inflection points](sleevecapinflection.svg) With points 1, 2, 3, and 4 in place, we have a box to draw our sleevecap in. Now it's time to -map out our *inflection points*. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement +map out our _inflection points_. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement is determined by the following 4 options: - [Sleevecap back X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 5 @@ -79,10 +79,10 @@ are instrumental in creating the points that always lie on the sleevecap: the an ![Controlling the anchor points](sleevecapanchor.svg) Ultimately, our sleevecap will be the combination of 5 curves. In addition to points 1 and 2, -the four *anchor points* that are marked in orange in our example will be the start/finish of +the four _anchor points_ that are marked in orange in our example will be the start/finish of those curves. -The points are *offset* perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points +The points are _offset_ perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points surrounding them. The offset for each point is controlled by these 4 options: - [Sleevecap Q1 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 2 to 6 @@ -107,7 +107,7 @@ control each quarter individually. We now have all the start and end points to draw the 5 curves that will make up our sleevecaps. What we're missing are the control points (see [our info on Bézier curves](https://freesewing.dev/concepts/beziercurves) to learn more -about how curves are constructed). These are determined by the so-called *spread*. +about how curves are constructed). These are determined by the so-called _spread_. For each of the anchor points (the ones marked in orange, not points 1 and 2) there is an option to control the spread upwards, and downwards: diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlita/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlita/instructions/en.md index addc6e40c11..bbbb0669e26 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlita/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlita/instructions/en.md @@ -32,7 +32,7 @@ Don't forget the seam allowance for these pieces when cutting if you are making - Draw a curve from shoulder to bottom of armhole. - Cut along this curve and discard the lower parts. - Separate out the pieces back into their front and side pieces. -- These are now you \**Front and Side shoulder* parts. +- These are now you \*_Front and Side shoulder_ parts. ##### Back shoulder diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cathrin/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cathrin/cutting/en.md index 955252854a7..5afe625803d 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cathrin/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cathrin/cutting/en.md @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ Cut 1 core fabric and 1 outer fabric of the center panel, making sure to cut on the fold. -Cut 2 core and 2 outer of each side panel with *good sides together*. +Cut 2 core and 2 outer of each side panel with _good sides together_. For example, for the 11-panel version of Cathrin: diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cathrin/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cathrin/instructions/en.md index bd74aa471f9..5664d8d26a9 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cathrin/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cathrin/instructions/en.md @@ -26,13 +26,13 @@ With a small stitch width (I set mine to “2”), sew a line straight down the Take the next piece. For an 11-panel Cathrin, this will be Panel 2. -Place the outer Panel 2 on the outer Panel 1, *good sides together*. +Place the outer Panel 2 on the outer Panel 1, _good sides together_. -Place the core Panel 2 on the core Panel 1, *good sides together*. +Place the core Panel 2 on the core Panel 1, _good sides together_. Ensure that the four layers of fabric line up perfectly. Double check that you haven’t mixed up pattern pieces or flipped any over by mistake. -Match up the four layers of fabric at the narrowest part, *good sides together*, and pin. Then match the top and bottom of each panel and pin. Finally, pin the rest of the edge in place. Use as many pins as needed to make sure the panels stay perfectly aligned. +Match up the four layers of fabric at the narrowest part, _good sides together_, and pin. Then match the top and bottom of each panel and pin. Finally, pin the rest of the edge in place. Use as many pins as needed to make sure the panels stay perfectly aligned. Sew the seam. @@ -52,11 +52,11 @@ Topstitch another seam parallel to the first seam, allowing a bit of extra space Take the next piece. For an 11-panel Cathrin, this will be Panel 3. -Place the outer Panel 3 on the outer Panel 2, *good sides together*. +Place the outer Panel 3 on the outer Panel 2, _good sides together_. -Place the core Panel 3 on the core Panel 2, *good sides together*. +Place the core Panel 3 on the core Panel 2, _good sides together_. -Match up the four layers of fabric at the narrowest part, *good sides together*, and pin. Then match the top and bottom of each panel and pin. Finally, pin the rest of the edge in place. Use as many pins as needed to make sure the panels stay perfectly aligned. +Match up the four layers of fabric at the narrowest part, _good sides together_, and pin. Then match the top and bottom of each panel and pin. Finally, pin the rest of the edge in place. Use as many pins as needed to make sure the panels stay perfectly aligned. Sew the seam. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/charlie/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/charlie/cutting/en.md index f0f88072914..7b7da1b58c0 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/charlie/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/charlie/cutting/en.md @@ -1,14 +1,14 @@ ##### From main fabric -- Part **1**: **2 x** *with good sides together*. -- Part **2**: **2 x** *with good sides together*. +- Part **1**: **2 x** _with good sides together_. +- Part **2**: **2 x** _with good sides together_. - Part **4**: **4 x** - Part **6**: **2 x** -- Part **8**: **2 x** 2 *with good sides together* -- Part **9**: **2 x** *with good sides together* +- Part **8**: **2 x** 2 _with good sides together_ +- Part **9**: **2 x** _with good sides together_ - Part **10**: **1 x** on the fold - Part **11**: **1 x** if making a straight waistband -- Part **11**: **2 x** *with good sides together* if making a curved waistband +- Part **11**: **2 x** _with good sides together_ if making a curved waistband - Part **12**: **1 x** ##### From lining (or any material suitable for pocket bags) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/charlie/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/charlie/instructions/en.md index dc21b44e13b..f25b3fa7bbd 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/charlie/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/charlie/instructions/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ First thing we're going to do is close the waist dart on the back panel. -To do so, fold the back panel double with *good sides together* making sure to match both sides of the dart on top of each other. +To do so, fold the back panel double with _good sides together_ making sure to match both sides of the dart on top of each other. Now sew the dart close, making sure to use a small stitch length, and to sew all the way to the end of the dart, even a couple of stitches off the fabric. @@ -28,7 +28,7 @@ the instructions) but it's a very typical finish for chinos, and makes it easier ### Attach the back pocket facing to the pocket bag -Join the back pocket facing to the pocket bag by placing them with *good sides together* and sewing along the longest of the non-curved seams of the facing. +Join the back pocket facing to the pocket bag by placing them with _good sides together_ and sewing along the longest of the non-curved seams of the facing. When you're done, press the seam allowance to the side of the pocket bag. @@ -52,7 +52,7 @@ You should overlock/serge the sides of the pocketbag so they don't ravel. -If you don't have a *serger* you can always use a zig-zag stitch instead. +If you don't have a _serger_ you can always use a zig-zag stitch instead. @@ -74,7 +74,7 @@ The front pockets are a little unusual because they have the appearance of class We have two front pocket bags, that each have two pieces of facing to attach to them. -Align them with *good sides together* (\*) and sew the facing in place. +Align them with _good sides together_ (\*) and sew the facing in place. @@ -204,7 +204,7 @@ It's one of those best practices you ignore at your own peril. Take extra care to carefully align the seams where both legs have their back and front panels joined together. -Doing so will ensure your cross seam results with a perfectly aligned *cross* where 4 pattern parts meet each other in a single point. +Doing so will ensure your cross seam results with a perfectly aligned _cross_ where 4 pattern parts meet each other in a single point. Getting it just right is one of those things you'll end up cherishing each time you wear these. @@ -371,7 +371,7 @@ At the start and end of the waistband, you'll need to tuck in some more seam all ### Sew the waistband close -Now with the good side up, sew exactly in the seam that was sewn before (so called *stitch in the ditch*). +Now with the good side up, sew exactly in the seam that was sewn before (so called _stitch in the ditch_). This will catch the back of the waistband which we've made to extend slightly further, and lock all the seam allowance inside. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/instructions/en.md index f08ee2eac9e..e0180a5cc32 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/instructions/en.md @@ -5,12 +5,12 @@ title: Cornelius Construction ### Step 1: The Front Pockets - Press under the seam allowances of the non-notched edges of the pokcet facings. -- Matching notches, pin the wrong sides of pocket facings to right side of pocket bags, *Edgestitch* the folded edges to the pocket bags. -- *Baste* the seam allowances of the notched edges of the pocket facings to the pocket bags. +- Matching notches, pin the wrong sides of pocket facings to right side of pocket bags, _Edgestitch_ the folded edges to the pocket bags. +- _Baste_ the seam allowances of the notched edges of the pocket facings to the pocket bags. - With right sides together matching double notches sew the pocket bags to the front and then press to the wrong side. - Fold the pockets in half along the fold line, right sides together. Stitch the bottom of the pocket bag together. -- Alternatively you can *French Seam* the bottom seams of the pocket bags together if you prefer. -- *Baste* the top and side of the pocket bags to the front seam allowances mathcing notches. +- Alternatively you can _French Seam_ the bottom seams of the pocket bags together if you prefer. +- _Baste_ the top and side of the pocket bags to the front seam allowances mathcing notches. @@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ Going forward the pockets and fronts will just be referred to as the fronts. ### Step 2: The Fly -- With right sides together, from the top *Baste* along the fly line stopping at the notch on the crotch seam. +- With right sides together, from the top _Baste_ along the fly line stopping at the notch on the crotch seam. - From where you left off with basting, stitch the crotch seam together making sure to secure your stitches where the basting ends. - Press open the fly and seam. - Lay the fronts down wrong side up so the right sides of the fly flaps are facing you. @@ -31,13 +31,13 @@ Going forward the pockets and fronts will just be referred to as the fronts. - Sew the left zipper tape to left flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself! - Fold the zipper guard in half wrong sides together. - Lay the zipper guard on the right flap, right sides touching. -- Sew the zipper guard to the right flap, *Finish* the right side to your liking. -- *Finish* the left side of the left flap to your liking. +- Sew the zipper guard to the right flap, _Finish_ the right side to your liking. +- _Finish_ the left side of the left flap to your liking. - Unpick the basted part of the front seam. -- *Topstitch* the right flap down, away from the now unpicked seam, as far down as you can. -- Pin/*Baste* the zipper protector over to the right side to keep it out of the way for the next step +- _Topstitch_ the right flap down, away from the now unpicked seam, as far down as you can. +- Pin/_Baste_ the zipper protector over to the right side to keep it out of the way for the next step - On the outside side, sew the left flap down to the left, following the curved line. -- On the outside side, *Bar-Tack* where you like them for reinforcement. +- On the outside side, _Bar-Tack_ where you like them for reinforcement. @@ -63,14 +63,14 @@ Use the method of the cuff style you chose as they are different depending on wh #### Traditional and Elegant -- *Finish* the raw edges of the slits. +- _Finish_ the raw edges of the slits. - Press the seam allowances of the slits to the wrongs sides. Stitch in place. - Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches. - Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk. - Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance. - With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides. - Turn the leg bands out. Press. -- *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing. +- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing. - Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later. @@ -89,7 +89,7 @@ If you are worried about a draft you can create a triangle piece of fabric that - Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance. - With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides. - Turn the leg bands out. Press. -- *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing. +- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing. - Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later. @@ -102,7 +102,7 @@ If you are worried about a draft you will need to construct plackets for the leg **For both Keystone, Traditional and Elegant Styles** -You can *Edgestitch* the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefer. +You can _Edgestitch_ the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefer. @@ -114,12 +114,12 @@ You can *Edgestitch* the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefe - Press the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining waistband piece. Trim the bottom seam allowance. - With right sides together sew the remaining waistband to the faced waistband along the top and sides. - Turn the waistband out. Press. -- *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing. +- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing. - Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later. -You can *Edgestitch* the waistband together like a modern waistband if you prefer. +You can _Edgestitch_ the waistband together like a modern waistband if you prefer. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/en.md index f5d002be330..bd441d7cbe8 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/en.md @@ -4,8 +4,8 @@ title: Cuff style This pattern supports three different cuff styles: -- **Traditional**: A single buttoned *curved* band with a pointed edge. -- **Elegant**: A single buttoned *straight* band with a pointed edge. +- **Traditional**: A single buttoned _curved_ band with a pointed edge. +- **Elegant**: A single buttoned _straight_ band with a pointed edge. - **Keystone**: A slightly curved band that is wider than the others using 3 buttons rather than 1. This one is based of off the one in the Keystone Draft this pattern is based on. ## Effect of this option on the pattern diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/cutting/en.md index ea58ac674ae..6ccf3869e72 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/cutting/en.md @@ -1,3 +1,3 @@ - Cut **1 back** on the fold - Cut **1 front** on the fold -- Cut **2 sleeves** with *good sides together* +- Cut **2 sleeves** with _good sides together_ diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/fabric/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/fabric/en.md index 856de65e04c..71a720145d8 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/fabric/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/fabric/en.md @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ This top works best in one of these two scenarios: - Use a stretch fabric, and chose minimal ease -- Or use a non-stretch fabric with good *drape*, in which case you'll want to add more ease. Flowy fabrics can be cut on the bias for a body-hugging effect +- Or use a non-stretch fabric with good _drape_, in which case you'll want to add more ease. Flowy fabrics can be cut on the bias for a body-hugging effect diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/instructions/en.md index 6979431806e..704fa0e3d5a 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/instructions/en.md @@ -10,16 +10,16 @@ For knit fabric make a strip with the stretch of the fabric running along the lo -- With *good sides together* align the non-folded edge of the strip with the back neckline. +- With _good sides together_ align the non-folded edge of the strip with the back neckline. - Sew the strip to the back neckline and trim the seam. -- Turn the strip to the wrong side of the fabric and *topstitch* along the folded edge to keep it in place. +- Turn the strip to the wrong side of the fabric and _topstitch_ along the folded edge to keep it in place. ### Step 2: Close shoulder seams ![This drawing was too nice not to use](neckline.jpg) - Finish the raw edge on the front neckline in a way that suits your fabric (if it doesn’t fray, you can leave it unfinished). -- With *good sides together*, place the front on the back aligning the shoulder seams. +- With _good sides together_, place the front on the back aligning the shoulder seams. - Fold the front neckline seam allowance over to the wrong side of the back. @@ -39,14 +39,14 @@ If you have a lightweight woven fabric you can fold this edge up again, so it wi The sleeve will be inserted flat, meaning the armhole seam will be sewn first and the sleeve and side seam will be closed in one go. -- With *good sides together*, matching notches, pin the sleeve head along the armhole. +- With _good sides together_, matching notches, pin the sleeve head along the armhole. - If necessary, ease in the sleeve head at the top, between the notches. - Sew, finish and press the seam. - Repeat for other sleeve. ### Step 5: Close side and sleeve seam -- With *good sides together* pin the front to the back along the sleeve and side seams, making sure to line up the armhole seams. +- With _good sides together_ pin the front to the back along the sleeve and side seams, making sure to line up the armhole seams. - Sew, finish and press the seam. ### Step 6: Hem @@ -55,7 +55,7 @@ The sleeve will be inserted flat, meaning the armhole seam will be sewn first an -Again, this can mean folding the hem under twice and *topstitching*, finishing the raw edge with a serger +Again, this can mean folding the hem under twice and _topstitching_, finishing the raw edge with a serger or zig zag stitch and folding it under once or leaving the edge raw, folding it under once and trimming close to the stitching. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/cutting/en.md index 2a3180747b9..3485bc12be1 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/cutting/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: Cutting --- -Florence only has one part, the *mask*. This is half of the mask, so we will need two of them. +Florence only has one part, the _mask_. This is half of the mask, so we will need two of them. In addition, we want an outer and inner layer of fabric, so we'll need four in total: - **Main fabric** diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/fabric/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/fabric/en.md index f9a0b479cce..08473246555 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/fabric/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/fabric/en.md @@ -6,9 +6,9 @@ For the outter fabric, cotton again, or a tightly woven wool. -Note that fabric that is *breathable* is not the same as fabric your can breath through. +Note that fabric that is _breathable_ is not the same as fabric your can breath through. There's many so-called waterproof breathable fabrics — or MBFs — that are used for outdoor gear because they -repel water and are *breathable* but would make a poor choice for a face mask. +repel water and are _breathable_ but would make a poor choice for a face mask. Look no further than your umbrella for an example. Chances are it's more from a fabric you can breath through, but only with substantial effort, which would not work for our face mask. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/instructions/en.md index 12412453e43..8f4754153a1 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/instructions/en.md @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ ### Step 1: Join center seam -Join the curved seam that is center of our mask by placing the *good sides together* and sewing them in place. +Join the curved seam that is center of our mask by placing the _good sides together_ and sewing them in place. ![Join the center seam](step1.svg) @@ -34,7 +34,7 @@ and attach the ribbons all in one step. - Then, place two ribbons on the corners of one side (right in our example) so that they peak out just a bit from the mask, but the ribbon extends inwards. - Now place the main fabric on top of this with the good side town. - You should now have both layers of your mask on top of each other with *good sides together* and + You should now have both layers of your mask on top of each other with _good sides together_ and two ribbons sandwiched between them - Pin through ribbons and layers to keep them in place - Now do the same on the other side diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/en.md index 47f9d552e86..a8f050a57fd 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/en.md @@ -17,7 +17,7 @@ The **crown** pattern piece needs to be cut on the fold to create a whole piece. ### Optional Fabric Ties -If you don't wish to use ribbon for your ties you can make them out of fabric. Simply cut 4 crossgrain strips of an 1" (2.5cm) or width of your choosen + seam allowances wide and sew two tubes leaving one of the short sides open for turning. Clip the corners and trim seams. Turn out an press. If desired you can ***Edgestitch*** or ***Topstitch*** the tubes to stop the fabric from shifting. The raw edge of the tubes can then be concealed in the ear flap seam when constructing the ear flaps. +If you don't wish to use ribbon for your ties you can make them out of fabric. Simply cut 4 crossgrain strips of an 1" (2.5cm) or width of your choosen + seam allowances wide and sew two tubes leaving one of the short sides open for turning. Clip the corners and trim seams. Turn out an press. If desired you can _**Edgestitch**_ or _**Topstitch**_ the tubes to stop the fabric from shifting. The raw edge of the tubes can then be concealed in the ear flap seam when constructing the ear flaps. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/en.md index 0bd7a93f9bc..1d07e2c0b9a 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/en.md @@ -16,7 +16,7 @@ Generally you want a lightweight fabric such as **Silks** or **Cotton Lawn** but ### Interfacing -Depending on your main fabric's thickness and how well it keeps its shape you may need to interface your fabric. If you are uncertain of whether your fabric requires interfacing, quickly ***Baste*** your crown pieces together and see if the crown stays up right when placed on a surface. If it doesn't it needs interfacing. As a rule of thumb you will generally need a **Medium Firm Interfacing** but if your fabric is quite thin you may need a firmer interfacing. If you are still uncertain you can face your crown pieces and once again ***Baste*** the crown pieces together and check how it looks on your head. You can either use fusible or non-fusible interfacing. If using non-fusible interfacing you will want to flat line the interfacing to your pieces wih temporary ***Pad Stitches***. +Depending on your main fabric's thickness and how well it keeps its shape you may need to interface your fabric. If you are uncertain of whether your fabric requires interfacing, quickly _**Baste**_ your crown pieces together and see if the crown stays up right when placed on a surface. If it doesn't it needs interfacing. As a rule of thumb you will generally need a **Medium Firm Interfacing** but if your fabric is quite thin you may need a firmer interfacing. If you are still uncertain you can face your crown pieces and once again _**Baste**_ the crown pieces together and check how it looks on your head. You can either use fusible or non-fusible interfacing. If using non-fusible interfacing you will want to flat line the interfacing to your pieces wih temporary _**Pad Stitches**_. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/en.md index 102a976b2ee..47edf1d52e6 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/en.md @@ -29,10 +29,10 @@ These instructions assume you have marked your seam lines. They may be harder to - With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together. - Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not have one you can use flannels or towels instead. -- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances. +- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances. - Repeat until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn together pieces. - With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk or for precision. This seam will be refered to as the "centre crown seam" going forward. -- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances. +- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances. @@ -45,12 +45,12 @@ Depending on your seam allowance you may want to trim seams as you go to reduce #### Ear Flaps with Ties - Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be refered to as ties going forward. -- *Baste* a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie. +- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie. - With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap. - Clip and trim seam allowance. - Turn inside out and press. -- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *edgestitch* the folded edge. -- *Baste* the raw edges together. +- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge. +- _Baste_ the raw edges together. - Repeat for the remaining ear flap. @@ -72,8 +72,8 @@ If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/d - With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not). - Clip and trim seam allowance. - Turn inside out and press. -- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* the folded edge. -- *Baste* the raw edges together. +- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge. +- _Baste_ the raw edges together. - Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method. - Repeat for the remaining ear flap. @@ -87,7 +87,7 @@ The ear flaps will need to be long enough to go over the top of the peak so they **For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes** -It is recommended to at least *topstitch* the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional. +It is recommended to at least _topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional. @@ -98,12 +98,12 @@ There are two methods for constructing the visors. This is due to the different #### The Visors Method 1 - Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines. -- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary *pad Stitches*. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward. -- *Baste* along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert. +- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward. +- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert. - With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert. - Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) - Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert. -- Using the previous basting line as a guide, *baste* the opening closed. +- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed. - Repeat this for remaining visor pieces. @@ -125,7 +125,7 @@ If preferred you can temporarily attach the visor insert another way that does n - Turn inside out and press. - Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor. - Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert. -- *Baste* as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew. +- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew. - Repeat for the remaining visor pieces. ### Step 5: Assembly and Lining @@ -138,35 +138,35 @@ Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both method - Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines. - Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. - Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom. -- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out. +- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out. - Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine. - Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam. - Remove all pad and basting stitches. - Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside. -- (Optional) Loosely *whipstitch* the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside. -- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching*. -- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to *baste* the seam allowance down. +- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside. +- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_. +- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down. - Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines. -- *Slipstitch* or *whipstitch* the lining to the seam allowance of the hat. +- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat. - Remove lining basting if used. -- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. +- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. #### Assembly and Lining Method 2 - Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). -- *Baste* the ear flap to the crown along seam lines +- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines - Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. - Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom. -- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out. +- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out. - (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines. - Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam. -- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching* and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat. +- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat. - With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Sew the lining to the the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to trim either the lining seams or both seams. - Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside. -- (Optional/Alternate) *Understitch* lining. +- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining. - Slipstitch lining opening closed. -- (Optional/Alternate) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew. -- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. +- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew. +- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. @@ -206,7 +206,7 @@ If you did not cut your ties down when constructing the ear flaps, now is the ti #### Finishing Ties Method 2 - Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed. -- *Whipstitch* the folded edge down to the tie +- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie - Repeat for the remaining tie. @@ -221,7 +221,7 @@ Unless you are doing the Buttonhole Ear Flaps you do not have to sew a button on - Construct a covered button. - Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams. -- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and *whipstitch* the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move. +- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/hortensia/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/hortensia/instructions/en.md index 88649a5d9ef..774bb7c5457 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/hortensia/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/hortensia/instructions/en.md @@ -4,18 +4,18 @@ ### Step 2: Sew the front and back panels to the bottom -- With *good sides together* sew the front and back panels to the bottom panel. +- With _good sides together_ sew the front and back panels to the bottom panel. - Press the seam allowances towards the bottom panel. -- On the outside *Edgestitch* the seam allowance to the bottom panel. +- On the outside _Edgestitch_ the seam allowance to the bottom panel. ### Step 3: Create and attach straps - If needed, face your straps. -- Fold the straps in half lengthwise with *good sides matching*. +- Fold the straps in half lengthwise with _good sides matching_. - Sew the raw edges together making sure to leave a gap for turning. - Turn inside out. -- *Slipstich* the opening closed. -- Alternatively *Edgestitch* all the edges. +- _Slipstich_ the opening closed. +- Alternatively _Edgestitch_ all the edges. - Attach one strap to the front panel and one strap to the back panel by sewing a rectangle and a cross. @@ -36,12 +36,12 @@ If using bag strap webbing instead of fabric made straps do the following, ### Step 4: The zipper -- Insert the zipper into the zipper panel making sure that the zipper pull is on the *good side*. +- Insert the zipper into the zipper panel making sure that the zipper pull is on the _good side_. ### (Optional) Step 5: Construct tabs. - Construct tabs the same as the straps just shorter. -- *Baste* the tabs *good sides together* to the short edges of the zipper panel so the tabs face inward. +- _Baste_ the tabs _good sides together_ to the short edges of the zipper panel so the tabs face inward. @@ -51,22 +51,22 @@ We recommend the tabs to be about a quarter length of the straps. ### Step 6: Attach the zipper panel -- With *good sides together* sew the zipper panel to the front and pack panels. We will now refer to this as **the tube**. +- With _good sides together_ sew the zipper panel to the front and pack panels. We will now refer to this as **the tube**. ### Step 7: Prep the side panels - Press under the top seam allowance of the side panel reinforcement parts. - Place the side panel reinforcement parts on top of the side panels matching the raw edges. -- *Edgestitch* the folded edge of the reinforcement parts to the side panels. -- *Baste* the raw edges together. +- _Edgestitch_ the folded edge of the reinforcement parts to the side panels. +- _Baste_ the raw edges together. ### Step 8: Attach the side panels to the tube -- With *good sides together* sew the side panels to the tube matching notches to the bottom and zipper panel seams. -- If binding the edges rather than turning, sew with *wrong sides together* instead. +- With _good sides together_ sew the side panels to the tube matching notches to the bottom and zipper panel seams. +- If binding the edges rather than turning, sew with _wrong sides together_ instead. - If not binding the edges leave a gap in one of the sides for turning. -- Turn inside out and *Slipstich* the opening closed. -- If sewn *wrong sides together* bind the raw edges of the side panels. +- Turn inside out and _Slipstich_ the opening closed. +- If sewn _wrong sides together_ bind the raw edges of the side panels. @@ -76,12 +76,12 @@ It is recommended to leave the gap for turning on the side rather than the top o ### Step 9: Lining -- With *good sides together* sew the front and back lining panels to the bottom lining panel. -- With *good sides together* attach the lining side panels. +- With _good sides together_ sew the front and back lining panels to the bottom lining panel. +- With _good sides together_ attach the lining side panels. - Press under the top seam allowances. - Alernatively you can bind the top edges. -- Place the lining inside the bag *wrong sides facing* eachother. -- *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the lining to the zipper panel. +- Place the lining inside the bag _wrong sides facing_ eachother. +- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the lining to the zipper panel. ### Step 10: Enjoy! diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/huey/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/huey/instructions/en.md index 998ab9dc35c..a63cb9faf48 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/huey/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/huey/instructions/en.md @@ -1,22 +1,22 @@ -This pattern can be sewn with or with out a overlocker/serger. If not using a overlocker or serger you will have to *Finish* the seams. +This pattern can be sewn with or with out a overlocker/serger. If not using a overlocker or serger you will have to _Finish_ the seams. ### Step 1: Attaching the pockets - Press under seam allowance of top, curved and slanted edges. -- *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* the curved seam allowance in place. This will form the openings of the pockets. +- _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the curved seam allowance in place. This will form the openings of the pockets. - Pin the pockets to the fronts using the guidelines and match raw edges. - Baste the raw edges of the pockets and fronts together. -- *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* the top and slanted edges of the pockets to the fronts leaving the curved edges open. +- _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the top and slanted edges of the pockets to the fronts leaving the curved edges open. ### Step 2: Making the Body -- With *good sides together*, sew the Fronts to the backs at the shoulder seams. -- With *good sides together*, sew the sleeves to the front and back matching notches. -- With *good sides together*, sew up the sleeves and side seams. +- With _good sides together_, sew the Fronts to the backs at the shoulder seams. +- With _good sides together_, sew the sleeves to the front and back matching notches. +- With _good sides together_, sew up the sleeves and side seams. ### Step 3: Making drawstring holes (Optional) @@ -44,17 +44,17 @@ The drawstrings will be threaded after the hoodie is constructed. ### Step 4: Prepping the hood -- With *good sides together*, matching sets, sew the hood pieces together along the outer curve edge. -- With *good sides together*, matching seams, sew the inner hood to the outer hood along the inner curve edge. +- With _good sides together_, matching sets, sew the hood pieces together along the outer curve edge. +- With _good sides together_, matching seams, sew the inner hood to the outer hood along the inner curve edge. - Turn good sides out. - Baste the front and bottom raw edges together. - Create a casing for the drawstring by stitching about 2.5cm (1 inch) away from the inner edge on the side with the drawstring holes. -- (Optionaly) If not using a drawstring, *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* the inner curve. +- (Optionaly) If not using a drawstring, _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the inner curve. When creating the casing or topstitching, make sure the inner curve seam is slightly inside of the hood to stop it from peaking out in the future. -Alternatively if not using a drawstring you can *Understitch* the inner curve seam. +Alternatively if not using a drawstring you can _Understitch_ the inner curve seam. @@ -68,43 +68,43 @@ A neckband can be useful to stablise and cover the neck seams but it is optional ### Step 6: Attaching the hood -- Pin the hood to the neck with outer hood matching *good side* of neck. -- If using, pin the neckband *good side* to inner hood matching raw edges. +- Pin the hood to the neck with outer hood matching _good side_ of neck. +- If using, pin the neckband _good side_ to inner hood matching raw edges. - Sew the neckband seam. -- *Finish* seam if not using neckband then proceed to Step 7. +- _Finish_ seam if not using neckband then proceed to Step 7. - Press neckband down. -- On outside *Topstitch* neckband in place. +- On outside _Topstitch_ neckband in place. - On inside, trim neckband down to topstitching. ### Step 7: Attaching the waistband - Fold the waistband in half lengthwise matching wrong sides. Press. -- With *good sides* together sew the waistband to the bottom of the back and front. +- With _good sides_ together sew the waistband to the bottom of the back and front. - Press the seam allowance up. -- *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* waistband seam allowance to the body. +- _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ waistband seam allowance to the body. ### Step 8: Attching the cuffs -- With *good sides together* sew the short egdes of the cuffs together to create two bands. +- With _good sides together_ sew the short egdes of the cuffs together to create two bands. - Press open the seam allowances. -- (Optional) *Edgestitch* the seam allowances down. +- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ the seam allowances down. - Fold the cuffs in half lengthwise matching wrong sides. Press. -- Matching seams and raw edges, pin the cuffs to the sleeves *good sides together*. +- Matching seams and raw edges, pin the cuffs to the sleeves _good sides together_. - Sew the cuffs to the sleeves. - Press the seam allowances up. -- *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* cuffs seam allowances to the sleeves. +- _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ cuffs seam allowances to the sleeves. ### Step 9: The zipper - If need be, face the front edges of the hoodie. - Unzip the zipper part way. -- Fold the top of the zipper tape down to the *good side* of the zipper tape. Trim if need be. -- Pin the zipper along one of the front edges of the hood, front and waistband. Making sure the zipper pull is faced the *good sides* of the hoodie and the bottoms are lined up. The zipper teeth should just be slightly over the seam line with the edge of the tape either matching or being slightly over from the hoodie edge. +- Fold the top of the zipper tape down to the _good side_ of the zipper tape. Trim if need be. +- Pin the zipper along one of the front edges of the hood, front and waistband. Making sure the zipper pull is faced the _good sides_ of the hoodie and the bottoms are lined up. The zipper teeth should just be slightly over the seam line with the edge of the tape either matching or being slightly over from the hoodie edge. - Using a zipper foot stitch the zipper to the hoodie using you seam allownace width. When you reach the zipper pull, stop, put your needle down, lift the presser foot, pull the zipper pull past the presser foot, lower the presser foot. Then you can continue sewing the seam. - Unzip the zipper. - Pin and sew the unattached zipper tape to the other side of the hoodie the same way. - Press the seams to the inside being careful not to melt the zipper teeth with your iron. -- *Topstitch* the zipper tapes in place. You may need to use a zipper foot. +- _Topstitch_ the zipper tapes in place. You may need to use a zipper foot. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/en.md index a871437ee66..d6f9e76c527 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/en.md @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ This way, 9cm of ribbing will be stretched to 10cm. If you're not sure what to pick, best is to take the ribbing you are going to use see how much of it -you need to stretch out to get to 10 cm with a *good* stretch. +you need to stretch out to get to 10 cm with a _good_ stretch. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/en.md index cbd0904caf0..b31ba3d339d 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/en.md @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ Sportscoats are typically made from a heavier wool, often with some texture or pattern in the weave. -In general, they are made in *busier* fabrics. +In general, they are made in _busier_ fabrics. Style purists will argue that sportscoats should never be made out of suiting fabric, as a sportscoat is not a suit jacket. You can tell them go feck off and do whatever you want, it's your jacket. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/cutting/en.md index 88cb91c74e4..137cd0c1f9a 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/cutting/en.md @@ -5,14 +5,14 @@ title: Cutting - Cut **1 lacerna** part on the fold - or Cut **2 lacerna** parts -The way to cut Lunetius is going to depend on what fabric you have chosen to use. If you have enough fabric width you can cut it *on the fold*. If you don’t, you can cut two halves and later sew them together. To not have to later finish the centre back edge you can cut with the centre back edge on the selvage. +The way to cut Lunetius is going to depend on what fabric you have chosen to use. If you have enough fabric width you can cut it _on the fold_. If you don’t, you can cut two halves and later sew them together. To not have to later finish the centre back edge you can cut with the centre back edge on the selvage. A lot of garments were woven to shape in the Roman era, so this is one aspect where you don’t need to worry about historical accuracy at all, unless you would like to weave your Lunetius to shape. In that case I salute you and please share the results [in our discord](https://discord.freesewing.org/)! If you want to learn more about this you can read about it in:\ -Granger-Taylor, H. (1982) *Weaving Clothes To Shape in the Ancient World: The Tunic and Toga of the Arringatore* in Textile History 13 (1), pp 3-25 +Granger-Taylor, H. (1982) _Weaving Clothes To Shape in the Ancient World: The Tunic and Toga of the Arringatore_ in Textile History 13 (1), pp 3-25 ### On Historical Accuracy diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/fabric/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/fabric/en.md index 44670a79722..0b17ed4e76b 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/fabric/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/fabric/en.md @@ -11,4 +11,4 @@ Otherwise, any wool or linen in both plain and other weaves would be a good choi If you are not working with any historicalness in mind Lunetius can be made out of a variety of fabrics. A woven fabric would drape in a different way compared to a stretch or knitted fabric but you are only limited by your imagination. More information on Roman cloak fabrics can be found in:\ -Jorgensen, L. B. (2004) *A Matter of Material: Changes in Textiles from Roman Sites in Egypt’s Eastern Desert*, in An Tard 11, pp 87-99 +Jorgensen, L. B. (2004) _A Matter of Material: Changes in Textiles from Roman Sites in Egypt’s Eastern Desert_, in An Tard 11, pp 87-99 diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/instructions/en.md index 190c4f990b5..a2221350ede 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/instructions/en.md @@ -36,4 +36,4 @@ On the machine, a straight stitch is a good option, but if you have a blind hem ### Step 3: Enjoy! -That's it you are all done! Now take a *fibula* (a brooch, pin or clasp) to fasten your cloak over your right shoulder (that is how the Romans did it, you can of course also take the left shoulder, or the middle, or whatever you prefer) and enjoy looking dramatic. +That's it you are all done! Now take a _fibula_ (a brooch, pin or clasp) to fasten your cloak over your right shoulder (that is how the Romans did it, you can of course also take the left shoulder, or the middle, or whatever you prefer) and enjoy looking dramatic. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/needs/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/needs/en.md index 6ce16ecdbc8..655e5ba6a41 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/needs/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/needs/en.md @@ -2,4 +2,4 @@ To make Lunetius, you will need the following: - [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies) - About 2 meters (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric options](/docs/patterns/lunetius/fabric)) -- (a *fibula* (brooch, pin, clasp) to wear and close it) +- (a _fibula_ (brooch, pin, clasp) to wear and close it) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/paco/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/paco/cutting/en.md index 269b109d194..f5b43224251 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/paco/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/paco/cutting/en.md @@ -8,14 +8,14 @@ If a pattern part is not printed, it means you don't need it. - From your main fabric: - - 2x **part 1**: This is the back panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with *good sides together* - - 2x **part 2**: This is the front panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with *good sides together* + - 2x **part 1**: This is the back panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_ + - 2x **part 2**: This is the front panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_ - 2x **part 3**: This is the waistband. Cut it from your **main fabric** - - 2x **part 4**: This is the ankle cuff. Cut these, from your **main fabric** with *good sides together* (not needed if your chose not to have an elasticated hem) - - 2x **part 7**: This is the back pocket welt. Cut 2 of these from your **main fabric** with *good sides together* + - 2x **part 4**: This is the ankle cuff. Cut these, from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_ (not needed if your chose not to have an elasticated hem) + - 2x **part 7**: This is the back pocket welt. Cut 2 of these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_ - From your lining fabric: - - 2x **part 5**: This is the front pocket bag. Cut these, from your **lining fabric** *on the fold* (not needed if you chose to not have front pockets) - - 2x **part 6**: This is the back pocket bag. Cut 2 of these from your **lining fabric** *on the fold* + - 2x **part 5**: This is the front pocket bag. Cut these, from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_ (not needed if you chose to not have front pockets) + - 2x **part 6**: This is the back pocket bag. Cut 2 of these from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_ - From interfacing: - 2x **part 8**: This is the back pocket welt interfacing. Cut 2 of these from **interfacing** diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/penelope/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/penelope/instructions/en.md index 9299f6b7b03..e31181cde2a 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/penelope/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/penelope/instructions/en.md @@ -77,7 +77,7 @@ web, both in writen form, and on video. If you do get stuck, you can always reac ### Step 2: The zipper -- With *good sides together*, sew the seam that has the zipper leaving the top open for the zipper. +- With _good sides together_, sew the seam that has the zipper leaving the top open for the zipper. - Insert the zipper into the seam following the procedure that is appropriate for the type of zipper you're using. @@ -88,8 +88,8 @@ If using a different closure, construct it during this step. ### Step 3: Sew the side seams -- With *good sides together*, sew up both the side seams. -- With *good sides together*, if not the zipper seam, sew the centre back seam either completely or down to the vent if included. +- With _good sides together_, sew up both the side seams. +- With _good sides together_, if not the zipper seam, sew the centre back seam either completely or down to the vent if included. ### Step 4: The lining (Optional) @@ -116,17 +116,17 @@ If you prefer to insert the zipper with the main and lining fabric as one, you w - Face lengthwise half of the waistband. - Press a fold the waistband in half lengthwise. -- With *good sides together* sew the face half of the waistband to the top of the skirt. Part of this waistband should overhang the zipper seam. +- With _good sides together_ sew the face half of the waistband to the top of the skirt. Part of this waistband should overhang the zipper seam. - Press the waistband up and away from the skirt. - Press the remaining waistband seam allowances to the inside of the waistband. - Fold and press the waistband to the inside along fold line. -- *Stitch in the ditch* to secure the waistband. -- *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the gap in the waistband that goes over the zipper seam +- _Stitch in the ditch_ to secure the waistband. +- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the gap in the waistband that goes over the zipper seam - Construct your preferred choice of closure where the waistband overlaps. -Alternatively you can *Edgestitch* the waistband in place which will admit the need to hand-stitch the gap closed but this will leave visible stitching.\ +Alternatively you can _Edgestitch_ the waistband in place which will admit the need to hand-stitch the gap closed but this will leave visible stitching.\ The closure can be a button and buttonhole, snaps or simple dress hooks. It's really up to you. @@ -139,7 +139,7 @@ This step is only needed if you have not lined your skirt as the hem and vents w - Construct the vents with your preferred method - Press under the hem allowances of the skirt. - If hem is large enough and/or the fabric press under a small amount along the top, this will help to prevent farying. -- Secure the hem in place with your preferred method. For instance you can sew from the outside or *Slipstitch* from the inside. This comes down to how you want the finished product to look. +- Secure the hem in place with your preferred method. For instance you can sew from the outside or _Slipstitch_ from the inside. This comes down to how you want the finished product to look. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/sandy/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/sandy/instructions/en.md index 5607a499f91..bbbcdcb6bc9 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/sandy/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/sandy/instructions/en.md @@ -15,10 +15,10 @@ Due to seamless and closure Sandy's needing different constructions we have sepa ### Step 1: Prepping the Skirt -- With *good sides together* sew the skirt seam up to where you intend the opening to start. +- With _good sides together_ sew the skirt seam up to where you intend the opening to start. - Add Pockets if using. - If using lining, prep the same as the skirt. -- *Finish* if not lining. +- _Finish_ if not lining. @@ -29,7 +29,7 @@ Pockets are not included in Sandy as it has one seam by default, if you cut mult ### Step 2: Prep the opening - Insert zipper or placket into opening if using. -- If not using, press the openings seam allowance to the inside and *Edgestitch*/*Topstitch* in place. You may also wish to continue the topstiching down the seam. +- If not using, press the openings seam allowance to the inside and _Edgestitch_/_Topstitch_ in place. You may also wish to continue the topstiching down the seam. @@ -41,7 +41,7 @@ Skip this step if you are including the zipper in the waistband. - Face the skirt if desired. - Attach Lining to skirt at hem and opening by your preferred method. -- *Baste* Lining to skirt at waist. +- _Baste_ Lining to skirt at waist. - Gather skirt and lining skit if needed. @@ -54,21 +54,21 @@ If not lining you should face the skirt when hemming later. ### Step 4: The waistband - Face half the waistbands parts lengthwise. -- With *good sides together* sew the waistbands together along one of the short edges. +- With _good sides together_ sew the waistbands together along one of the short edges. - Press under the seam allowance on the long edge of the waistband that is not faced. -- Attach the faced side of the waistband, *good sides together* to the skirt. There will be some overhang, the side you wish not to overlap should be overhang by your seam allowance. The side intended to overlap will have a greater overhang. Trim seam. +- Attach the faced side of the waistband, _good sides together_ to the skirt. There will be some overhang, the side you wish not to overlap should be overhang by your seam allowance. The side intended to overlap will have a greater overhang. Trim seam. - Press the waistband and seam allowance up and away from the skirt. - If inserting a zipper now is the time to do so, attach the zipper from the fold line down. Then follow the rest of the instructions ommiting overhangs and other closures. You will need to attach the lining to the zipper at this point if you have not treated the lining and skirt as one at the opening. -- Press the waistband *good sides together* along fold-line. +- Press the waistband _good sides together_ along fold-line. - Sew the overhangs with your seam allowance. - Turn the waistband out and to the inside, Press. -- *Egdestitch* the waistband in place, this should also close the gap of the over-lap. -- Alternatively, *Slipstich* or *Whipstitch* the waistband in place on the inside and close the gap of the over-lap with *Slipstiching*. +- _Egdestitch_ the waistband in place, this should also close the gap of the over-lap. +- Alternatively, _Slipstich_ or _Whipstitch_ the waistband in place on the inside and close the gap of the over-lap with _Slipstiching_. - Add button and buttonhole, snaps or dress hooks, whatever is your preferred closure to the waistband overhang. -If you are having trouble keeping the pressed under seam allowance of the waistband folded/not staying pressed you may find it helpful to *Baste* the fold in place. +If you are having trouble keeping the pressed under seam allowance of the waistband folded/not staying pressed you may find it helpful to _Baste_ the fold in place. @@ -96,8 +96,8 @@ You are all done! Now go enjoy your wonderful new skirt! - Face skirt if desired. - Attach Lining to skirt at hem by your preferred method if using. -- *Baste* Lining to skirt at waist. -- *Finish* seams if not lining. +- _Baste_ Lining to skirt at waist. +- _Finish_ seams if not lining. - Gather skirt and lining skit if needed. @@ -109,13 +109,13 @@ If not lining you should face the skirt when hemming later. ### Step 2: The waistband -- With *good sides together* sew the waistband in half along the short seams, leaving a gap for the elastic that will be on the inside. +- With _good sides together_ sew the waistband in half along the short seams, leaving a gap for the elastic that will be on the inside. - Press under the seam allowance on the long edge of the waistband that is intended to be on the inside. -- With *good sides together* attach the waistband to the skirt along the unpressed seam. Trim seam. +- With _good sides together_ attach the waistband to the skirt along the unpressed seam. Trim seam. - Press waistband and seam allowance up away from skirt. - Press the waistband to the inside along the fold-line. -- *Edgestitch* the waistband in place. -- Alternatively you can *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the waistband in place on the inside. +- _Edgestitch_ the waistband in place. +- Alternatively you can _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the waistband in place on the inside. - Cut the elastic to your waist. - Thread the elastic through the opening of the waistband making sure not to lose the end. - Overlap the ends by 1cm (3/8 inch) and zig-zag stitch in place. @@ -123,7 +123,7 @@ If not lining you should face the skirt when hemming later. -If you are having trouble keeping the pressed under seam allowance of the waistband folded/not staying pressed you may find it helpful to *Baste* the fold in place. +If you are having trouble keeping the pressed under seam allowance of the waistband folded/not staying pressed you may find it helpful to _Baste_ the fold in place. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/sandy/options/seamlessfullcircle/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/sandy/options/seamlessfullcircle/en.md index efaba0965df..a5ad8cc3b41 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/sandy/options/seamlessfullcircle/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/sandy/options/seamlessfullcircle/en.md @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ Since it has no openings, you'll need an elastic waistband. -This produces a full circle ignoring the *Circle percent* option. +This produces a full circle ignoring the _Circle percent_ option. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/buttonholeplacketstyle/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/buttonholeplacketstyle/en.md index a744abd579d..aa24ceb9c87 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/buttonholeplacketstyle/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/buttonholeplacketstyle/en.md @@ -10,7 +10,7 @@ Seamless is less work, and it looks great. -As seamless is only possible on a *cut-on* placket, this option is ignored if you choose a seperate buttonhole placket. +As seamless is only possible on a _cut-on_ placket, this option is ignored if you choose a seperate buttonhole placket. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/buttonplacketstyle/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/buttonplacketstyle/en.md index cdfa21b75f0..0b94fcec6de 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/buttonplacketstyle/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/buttonplacketstyle/en.md @@ -10,7 +10,7 @@ Seamless is less work, and it looks great. -As seamless is only possible on a *cut-on* placket, this option is ignored if you choose a seperate button placket. +As seamless is only possible on a _cut-on_ placket, this option is ignored if you choose a seperate button placket. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/cuffdrape/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/cuffdrape/en.md index 461e4f7c308..5d480f0fbaf 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/cuffdrape/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/cuffdrape/en.md @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ How much the end of the sleeve is wider than the wrist. This changes the look of the sleeve a bit. -More drape makes the sleeve wider and gives you a more *blousy* effect, whereas less drape makes the sleeve more narrow. +More drape makes the sleeve wider and gives you a more _blousy_ effect, whereas less drape makes the sleeve more narrow. The drape will be worked into the cuff with pleats. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simone/options/buttonholeplacketstyle/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simone/options/buttonholeplacketstyle/en.md index 63df269a63e..221120a53b8 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simone/options/buttonholeplacketstyle/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simone/options/buttonholeplacketstyle/en.md @@ -10,7 +10,7 @@ Seamless is less work, and it looks great. -As seamless is only possible on a *cut-on* placket, this option is ignored if you choose a seperate buttonhole placket. +As seamless is only possible on a _cut-on_ placket, this option is ignored if you choose a seperate buttonhole placket. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simone/options/buttonplacketstyle/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simone/options/buttonplacketstyle/en.md index 9c41e70b1fa..a125c38ea97 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simone/options/buttonplacketstyle/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simone/options/buttonplacketstyle/en.md @@ -10,7 +10,7 @@ Seamless is less work, and it looks great. -As seamless is only possible on a *cut-on* placket, this option is ignored if you choose a seperate button placket. +As seamless is only possible on a _cut-on_ placket, this option is ignored if you choose a seperate button placket. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simone/options/cuffdrape/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simone/options/cuffdrape/en.md index 2ff64f9dcb2..cae177adbd0 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simone/options/cuffdrape/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/simone/options/cuffdrape/en.md @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ How much the end of the sleeve is wider than the wrist. This changes the look of the sleeve a bit. -More drape makes the sleeve wider and gives you a more *blousy* effect, whereas less drape makes the sleeve more narrow. +More drape makes the sleeve wider and gives you a more _blousy_ effect, whereas less drape makes the sleeve more narrow. The drape will be worked into the cuff with pleats. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/teagan/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/teagan/cutting/en.md index a88c336352f..4dd971d51e8 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/teagan/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/teagan/cutting/en.md @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ - Cut 1 back on the fold. - Cut 1 front on the fold. -- Cut 2 sleeves *with good sides together* +- Cut 2 sleeves _with good sides together_ - If you cut sleeves separately, remember that one has to be a mirror image of the other. - Cut 1 strip for neck opening. It should be 6 cm wide and the length of your neck opening. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/theo/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/theo/instructions/en.md index 9a00f8b918b..8257544ec20 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/theo/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/theo/instructions/en.md @@ -12,7 +12,7 @@ In this particular case, there's a lot of video material available, but it was o Many of the steps below are to be repeated for both trouser legs. -That is not always mentioned because life is short and continuously writing *Do not forget to do this for both trouser legs* gets tired really soon. +That is not always mentioned because life is short and continuously writing _Do not forget to do this for both trouser legs_ gets tired really soon. @@ -562,7 +562,7 @@ Before we finalize the waistband, we're going to trim back some of its seam allo ![Press and baste the waistband lining](step49.png) -The waistband lining will be sewn from the front of the trousers on top of the seam that joins the waistband to the trousers (so called *stitch in the ditch*). +The waistband lining will be sewn from the front of the trousers on top of the seam that joins the waistband to the trousers (so called _stitch in the ditch_). Doing so will catch the lining and secure it in place. However, since we'll be sewing this from the good side, the lining will lie beneath all other layers, and we won't see what we're doing. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/tiberius/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/tiberius/cutting/en.md index 3deeca0ed5e..e04b048eab8 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/tiberius/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/tiberius/cutting/en.md @@ -1,14 +1,14 @@ -##### Use the power of the *paperless* option - do *not* print this pattern +##### Use the power of the _paperless_ option - do _not_ print this pattern Tiberius is just a big rectangle, so printing the pattern out is a bit of a waste. Save a tree, toggle the [paperless](/docs/guide/options/paperless) option, and copy the dimensions to your fabric, while respecting the grainline. -Tiberius consists of only one part, the *tunica*, that will act as a pattern for both front and back pieces. +Tiberius consists of only one part, the _tunica_, that will act as a pattern for both front and back pieces. -- cut *2 tunicae*, *on the fold* +- cut _2 tunicae_, _on the fold_ diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/tiberius/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/tiberius/instructions/en.md index 60c74323c11..a90e8b9d47d 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/tiberius/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/tiberius/instructions/en.md @@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ Tiberius is a historically inspired pattern, and if you want more authenticity, ### Step 1: Sew shoulder seams - Put both parts with good sides together. Sew the shoulder seams, taking care to stop at the notches for the head opening. -- Finish the seams, with a method of your choice. (If you used the fabrics recommended in the [fabric options](/docs/patterns/tiberius/fabric), they *will* fray. Folding the seam allowance twice, enclosing the raw edge and topstitching is an option. You can also use decorative topstitching.) +- Finish the seams, with a method of your choice. (If you used the fabrics recommended in the [fabric options](/docs/patterns/tiberius/fabric), they _will_ fray. Folding the seam allowance twice, enclosing the raw edge and topstitching is an option. You can also use decorative topstitching.) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/titan/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/titan/cutting/en.md index 24bf974e5e6..e03c8b8c05a 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/titan/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/titan/cutting/en.md @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ **Main fabric** -- Cut **2 front** parts with *good sides together* -- Cut **2 back** parts with *good sides together* +- Cut **2 front** parts with _good sides together_ +- Cut **2 back** parts with _good sides together_ These cutting instructions are just for the default Titan block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/titan/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/titan/instructions/en.md index ec2da6e85a0..94b515fa297 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/titan/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/titan/instructions/en.md @@ -15,7 +15,7 @@ Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patter - Join the inseam (the seam the runs along the inside of your legs) of the front and back. - You now have a leg. Repeat for the other leg, **making certain they are mirror images of each other**. - Turn one leg with the good side in, and the other with the good side out. -- Now tuck the *good side out* into the *good side in* leg, so that they have their *good sides together*. +- Now tuck the _good side out_ into the _good side in_ leg, so that they have their _good sides together_. - Align and sew the cross seam. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/ursula/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/ursula/instructions/en.md index b68bc01e25b..c5a2e8365bc 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/ursula/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/ursula/instructions/en.md @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ ### Step 1: Sew the front to the first gusset piece -Place one of the gusset pieces on the front piece, *good sides together*, so that the crotch seams are aligned. Pin or baste at the seam allowance. +Place one of the gusset pieces on the front piece, _good sides together_, so that the crotch seams are aligned. Pin or baste at the seam allowance. ![Sew the front to the first gusset piece](step01.png) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/wahid/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/wahid/cutting/en.md index 79bd538be88..636ef5b863c 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/wahid/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/wahid/cutting/en.md @@ -1,15 +1,15 @@ - **Main fabric** - - Cut **2 front(s)** with *good sides together* - - Cut **2 back(s)** with *good sides together* - - Cut **2 front facing(s)** with *good sides together* - - Cut **2 pocket welt(s)** with *good sides together* - - Cut **2 pocket facing(s)** with *good sides together* + - Cut **2 front(s)** with _good sides together_ + - Cut **2 back(s)** with _good sides together_ + - Cut **2 front facing(s)** with _good sides together_ + - Cut **2 pocket welt(s)** with _good sides together_ + - Cut **2 pocket facing(s)** with _good sides together_ - **Lining fabric** - - Cut **2 front lining(s)** with *good sides together* - - Cut **2 back(s)** with *good sides together* - - Cut **2 pocket bag(s)** with *good sides together* + - Cut **2 front lining(s)** with _good sides together_ + - Cut **2 back(s)** with _good sides together_ + - Cut **2 pocket bag(s)** with _good sides together_ - **Interfacing** - - Cut **2 front(s)** with *good sides together* + - Cut **2 front(s)** with _good sides together_ - Cut **2 pocket interfacing(s)** diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/walburga/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/walburga/cutting/en.md index 379ac30af5b..e907de5db4c 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/walburga/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/walburga/cutting/en.md @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -Walburga consists of two parts, a *front* and a *back* piece. +Walburga consists of two parts, a _front_ and a _back_ piece. @@ -6,8 +6,8 @@ Apart from the cutout for the neck opening, front and back are identical. It is -- cut *1 front*, *on the fold* -- cut *1 back*, *on the fold* +- cut _1 front_, _on the fold_ +- cut _1 back_, _on the fold_ ### On Historical Accuracy diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/walburga/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/walburga/instructions/en.md index 6ac2e08b845..09d9d1e12d4 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/walburga/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/walburga/instructions/en.md @@ -10,11 +10,11 @@ Walburga is a historically inspired pattern, and if you want more authenticity, ### Step 2: Finish seams and head opening -- Finish the seams and the raw edges at the head opening, with a method of your choice. (If you used the fabrics recommended in the [fabric options](/docs/patterns/walburga/fabric), they *will* fray. Folding the seam allowance twice, enclosing the raw edge and topstitching is an option. You can also use decorative topstitching.) +- Finish the seams and the raw edges at the head opening, with a method of your choice. (If you used the fabrics recommended in the [fabric options](/docs/patterns/walburga/fabric), they _will_ fray. Folding the seam allowance twice, enclosing the raw edge and topstitching is an option. You can also use decorative topstitching.) ### (Optional) Step 3: Cut slits -*This step is optional, you can also opt not to cut slits. If so, continue with step 4.* +_This step is optional, you can also opt not to cut slits. If so, continue with step 4._ diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/waralee/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/waralee/instructions/en.md index a65bb24b9a1..5a77d94739f 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/waralee/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/waralee/instructions/en.md @@ -55,8 +55,8 @@ You can use whatever method works best for you. In the version I first made I ju Now you get to sew the two pants parts together. -- Lay the two pants parts on top of one another with *good sides together* and sew the seam along the cutout. -- *Finish* this seam and press it. +- Lay the two pants parts on top of one another with _good sides together_ and sew the seam along the cutout. +- _Finish_ this seam and press it. ### Step 4: Prepare the four strings @@ -85,7 +85,7 @@ If your material is delicate or flimsy, you can add some interfacing to this to -- Fold them in half along the long side, *good sides together*. +- Fold them in half along the long side, _good sides together_. - Stitch the long side and one of the short sides, - Turn the tie right side out. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/yuri/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/yuri/cutting/en.md index 076152da339..168be21d878 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/yuri/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/yuri/cutting/en.md @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ -- Cut **2 fronts** with *good sides together* -- Cut **1 back** *on the fold* -- Cut **2 sleeves** with *good sides together* -- Cut **2 gussets** *on the fold* with *good sides together* -- Cut **4 hood sides** 2 x 2 with *good sides together* for the outer hood and inner hood -- Cut **2 hood centers** with *good sides together* +- Cut **2 fronts** with _good sides together_ +- Cut **1 back** _on the fold_ +- Cut **2 sleeves** with _good sides together_ +- Cut **2 gussets** _on the fold_ with _good sides together_ +- Cut **4 hood sides** 2 x 2 with _good sides together_ for the outer hood and inner hood +- Cut **2 hood centers** with _good sides together_ diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/yuri/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/yuri/instructions/en.md index 5e2deef4f64..637886dd37f 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/yuri/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/yuri/instructions/en.md @@ -1,11 +1,11 @@ -This pattern can be sewn with or with out a overlocker/serger. To ***Finish*** seams without a overlocker/serger you can either use your prefered method or one of the methods below: +This pattern can be sewn with or with out a overlocker/serger. To _**Finish**_ seams without a overlocker/serger you can either use your prefered method or one of the methods below: ##### Finishing Method 1 - Press open the seam allowances. -- Then on the good side, ***Edgestitch*** 3mm (1/8 inch) away or closer to both sides of the seam catching the seam allowances underneath. +- Then on the good side, _**Edgestitch**_ 3mm (1/8 inch) away or closer to both sides of the seam catching the seam allowances underneath. - On the wrong side trim the seam allowances close to the edgestitching. ##### Finishing Method 2 @@ -24,17 +24,17 @@ If using a overlocker/serger you can sew seams which need fininshing in one go r ## Step 1: Attaching the Gussets - With the good sides together, sew the gussets to the front panels along the side seams. -- ***Finish*** seams. +- _**Finish**_ seams. ## Step 2: Sew the Shoulder Seams - With good sides together, sew the front pieces to the back along the shoulder seams. -- ***Finish*** seams. +- _**Finish**_ seams. ## Step 3: Attach the Sleeves - With good sides together, matching back notch to back notch and front notch to front notch, sew the sleeves to the body. -- ***Finish*** seams. +- _**Finish**_ seams. @@ -61,7 +61,7 @@ This is just one hemming method, if you prefer another way go for it. ## Step 5: Close the Sides - With good sides together, matching shoulder seams, start at the sleeve edge and sew the sleeve together than sew the gusset and back together. -- ***Finish*** seams. +- _**Finish**_ seams. - Repeat for remaining sleeve and side opening. ## Step 6: Hem the Raw Edges @@ -76,7 +76,7 @@ Follow this step twice, once for the outer hood and once for the lining hood. - With good sides together, sew the long edge of the Hood Centre to the outer edge of one of the Hood Sides. - With good sides together, sew the remaining long edge of the Hood Centre to the outer edge of the other Hood Side. - Press the seam allowances open. -- ***Finish*** seams. +- _**Finish**_ seams. @@ -86,9 +86,9 @@ It is recommended to use **Finishing Method 1** for this step regardless of whet ## Step 8: Join Inside and Outside Hood -- With *good sides together*, pin the Outside and Lining Hoods together matching the seams. +- With _good sides together_, pin the Outside and Lining Hoods together matching the seams. - Sew the pinned edge together. -- Trim the seam allowance to 1cm (3/8 inch) if your chosen seam allowance is bigger and you have not used and overlocker/serger. Otherwise *do not* trim the seam. +- Trim the seam allowance to 1cm (3/8 inch) if your chosen seam allowance is bigger and you have not used and overlocker/serger. Otherwise _do not_ trim the seam. - Turn the hood good sides out and press the outer edge flat. - On the outside Topstitch along the edge of the hood, about 1.5 - 2cm (5/8 - 3/4 inch) from the edge. Ensure that your topstiching encloses but does not go through the seam allowance of the outer hood edge. This will create a decorative rim, with the enclosed seam allowance making the rim a bit poofy. - With raw edges together, overcast the bottom of the hood. You can either do this with an overlocker/serger or a ziz-zag or overcast stitch on a regular machine. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/edgestitching/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/edgestitching/en.md index 4b3ed30e261..6bb929be782 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/edgestitching/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/edgestitching/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: Edgestitching --- -Edgestitching is a speficic type of *topstitching*. +Edgestitching is a speficic type of _topstitching_. It is specific because of its location. To edgestitch means to topstitch right next to a seam, typically about 3mm or 1/8 inch next to it. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/good-sides-together/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/good-sides-together/en.md index df07a0c2e8b..e6a088a96ab 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/good-sides-together/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/good-sides-together/en.md @@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ This gives you two pieces that are mirror images of each other. ##### What if there is not obvious good side? -When cutting out something without an obvious *good* side (like interfacing), +When cutting out something without an obvious _good_ side (like interfacing), what matters is that you cut two mirrored pieces, rather than two identical ones. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/knit-binding/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/knit-binding/en.md index e63eb195694..0934d684fba 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/knit-binding/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/knit-binding/en.md @@ -96,7 +96,7 @@ The length of your knit binding depends on the amount it needs to be stretched. ### Do not do this There are a bunch of tutorials out on the internet that show you how to sew on knit binding. -Many of those suggest something like *make the neck binding 90% of the length of the seam you are attaching it to* (the percentage varies). +Many of those suggest something like _make the neck binding 90% of the length of the seam you are attaching it to_ (the percentage varies). This idea is that you cut your binding, join its edges, and then sew it in the opening. That is (in my opinion) no good. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/en.md index e066de4fafe..8be790e89dc 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/en.md @@ -2,10 +2,10 @@ title: On the fold --- -When you have a pattern piece that is symmetric, the instructions might tell you that it is to be cut *on the fold*. +When you have a pattern piece that is symmetric, the instructions might tell you that it is to be cut _on the fold_. This means that only half the pattern piece is printed, and you should cut it out by folding your fabric, and -aligning the line that is *on the fold* with the fold line indicated on the pattern. +aligning the line that is _on the fold_ with the fold line indicated on the pattern. The fold line is indicated with a double arrow like in this example: diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/slipstitch/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/slipstitch/en.md index 17af6fc18f4..b10596cd5d1 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/slipstitch/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/slipstitch/en.md @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ title: Slipstitch A slipstitch is a hand-sewing technique that allows you to join layers of fabric with a stitch that is invisible from the outside. -A slipstitch is *slipped* in between the layers of fabric +A slipstitch is _slipped_ in between the layers of fabric where it sews together the seam allowance. ![A closeup of a slipstitch being made on a seam](slipstitch.jpg) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/various/notation/buttons/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/various/notation/buttons/en.md index c99329dc2ae..0cfdc669e3b 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/various/notation/buttons/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/various/notation/buttons/en.md @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ A button is shown on the left, and a buttonhole on the right -Snaps have a *stud* and *socket* part, and also look like the real thing: +Snaps have a _stud_ and _socket_ part, and also look like the real thing: diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/various/notation/dimensions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/various/notation/dimensions/en.md index abc009f6ab1..7ef098088d4 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/various/notation/dimensions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/various/notation/dimensions/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: Dimensions --- -When you opt for a *paperless* pattern, your pattern will come with dimensions: +When you opt for a _paperless_ pattern, your pattern will come with dimensions: diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/various/notation/grainline/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/various/notation/grainline/en.md index 136e67a1c9e..d38832fdea8 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/various/notation/grainline/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/various/notation/grainline/en.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ title: Grainline and cut-on-fold indicator --- -Grainlines — a line that indicates the *fabric grain* — look like this: +Grainlines — a line that indicates the _fabric grain_ — look like this: diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/various/pledge/motivation/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/various/pledge/motivation/en.md index bc3306a87a8..8d202995f4e 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/various/pledge/motivation/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/various/pledge/motivation/en.md @@ -32,7 +32,7 @@ And that message is: **Hey, you're doing a worthwhile thing. Keep up the good wo ##### The value of your money -It is not *just* about the money. But that doesn't mean the money is not important. +It is not _just_ about the money. But that doesn't mean the money is not important. Much to the contrary. Raising money by doing something I love and then passing it on to charity allows me to sleep at night. @@ -69,7 +69,7 @@ Sometimes precariously, among the rubble of their bombed hospitals, but always t I can't think of a single symbol that reminds us that not everything is lost, and there's still good people out there. -It is also one of the few organisations that has the global reach to go and help there where it's needed most. We're used to them working in poverty-stricken regions, but when the COVID-19 pandemic ripped our healthcare systems to shreds, *MSF* stepped up to the plate, deploying their teams in Western Europe, in the US, and anywhere where the need was most acute. +It is also one of the few organisations that has the global reach to go and help there where it's needed most. We're used to them working in poverty-stricken regions, but when the COVID-19 pandemic ripped our healthcare systems to shreds, _MSF_ stepped up to the plate, deploying their teams in Western Europe, in the US, and anywhere where the need was most acute. I hope that this explains the choice of Médecins Sans Frontières/Doctors Without Borders as FreeSewing's charity of choice. And I hope you will join us in making the world a little bit better. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/various/sizes/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/various/sizes/en.md index 5e4c5d645cb..8255fcfe01c 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/various/sizes/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/various/sizes/en.md @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ title: Sizing tables FreeSewing does not use sizes. All our patterns are drafted to a set of measurements. -Since version 2.2 however, we do provide *standard sizes*. +Since version 2.2 however, we do provide _standard sizes_. Each size is a set of measurements that is an estimation of what a person with a given neck circumference could have as measurements. diff --git a/markdown/org/ui/homepage/designers/en.md b/markdown/org/ui/homepage/designers/en.md index feca653a981..b0e0b4a6653 100644 --- a/markdown/org/ui/homepage/designers/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/ui/homepage/designers/en.md @@ -6,19 +6,19 @@ Parametric design refers to the use of parameters or variables to manipulate the outcome of a given design within its rules. -In sewing patterns, the *parameters* are what is provided by the user: Their measurements +In sewing patterns, the _parameters_ are what is provided by the user: Their measurements and options that they have selected.\ -The *rules* of the design are what you, the designer, make them. +The _rules_ of the design are what you, the designer, make them. #### What does that mean for designers? -When drafting or designing patterns or garments, it is common practice to start with a *fit model* -(or *dress form*). The measurements of the fit model are used as input in the initial design. +When drafting or designing patterns or garments, it is common practice to start with a _fit model_ +(or _dress form_). The measurements of the fit model are used as input in the initial design. Adapting the pattern for a different model is a tedious task, which is why patterns are graded up and down to cover different sizes. -But in a parametric sewing pattern, adapting to different sizes or models *just works*. +But in a parametric sewing pattern, adapting to different sizes or models _just works_. #### What can FreeSewing do for me? diff --git a/markdown/org/ui/homepage/makers/en.md b/markdown/org/ui/homepage/makers/en.md index 019373f6ae8..79b434b3bb4 100644 --- a/markdown/org/ui/homepage/makers/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/ui/homepage/makers/en.md @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ #### Sewing patterns made to your measurements -All our patterns are *made-to-measure*. +All our patterns are _made-to-measure_. Not just graded up or down, but actually drafted to your exact specifications, just as you would on paper. #### Packed with options plus live preview diff --git a/markdown/org/ui/homepage/row-1/en.md b/markdown/org/ui/homepage/row-1/en.md index 019373f6ae8..79b434b3bb4 100644 --- a/markdown/org/ui/homepage/row-1/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/ui/homepage/row-1/en.md @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ #### Sewing patterns made to your measurements -All our patterns are *made-to-measure*. +All our patterns are _made-to-measure_. Not just graded up or down, but actually drafted to your exact specifications, just as you would on paper. #### Packed with options plus live preview