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chore: Port remaining design docs to docusaurus (#7224)

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Huey, Titan, Charlie, and Diana
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Joost De Cock 2024-11-02 13:06:51 +01:00 • committed by GitHub
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---
title: 'Charlie chinos: Sewing Instructions'
---
## Step 1: Close the back dart
First thing we're going to do is close the waist dart on the back panel.
To do so, fold the back panel double with _good sides together_ making sure to
match both sides of the dart on top of each other.
Now sew the dart close, making sure to use a small stitch length, and to sew
all the way to the end of the dart, even a couple of stitches off the fabric.
![Closed darts](step01.svg)
:::tip
Your back darts should be of equal length. Make sure to sew them precisely.
:::
## Step 2: Construct the back pockets
Follow [our double welt pocket instructions](/docs/sewing/double-welt-pockets/)
to create the back welt pockets.
Since these are chinos, you can/should edgestitch around the welt opening.
It's not strictly required for welt pockets, and typically not done on classic
trousers (and thus not shown in the instructions) but it's a very typical
finish for chinos, and makes it easier to keep everything in place.
### Attach the back pocket facing to the pocket bag
Join the back pocket facing to the pocket bag by placing them with _good sides
together_ and sewing along the longest of the non-curved seams of the facing.
When you're done, press the seam allowance to the side of the pocket bag.
### Attach the back pocket bag
Sew the bottom of the pocket bag to the bottom welt. Press it down when done.
Now align the top of the pocket bag with the waist and sew it down in the
waist's seam allowance.
### Close the pocket back
Fold the leg panel out of the way so you can close both sides of the pocket
bag.
:::tip
Make sure to also sew the pocket welts down on the pocket bag
:::
You should overlock/serge the sides of the pocketbag so they don't ravel.
:::tip
If you don't have a _serger_ you can always use a zig-zag stitch instead.
:::
## Step 3: Overlock the front and back edges
Before we go any further, we'll overlock/serge the edges of the front and back
panels of the legs. Make sure to also catch the top of the pocket bag when
doing the back panels.
What we want to to prevent these edges from ravelling after we've completed our
trousers, and now is the best time to do so.
![Overlocked leg panels](step03.svg)
## Step 4: Construct the front pocket opening
The front pockets are a little unusual because they have the appearance of
classic slanted pockets, but are constructed on the side seam.
### Attach the front pocket facings to the pocket bags
We have two front pocket bags, that each have two pieces of facing to attach to
them.
Align them with _good sides together_ (\*) and sew the facing in place.
:::warning
(\*) With a pocket bag, it's not so obvious what the good side should be.
Do you want the good side to be what you feel when you put your hand in your
pocket? Or do you want it to be what you see when your trousers lie on the
floor with their insides showing.
There's no right or wrong answer here. You do you.
(The images in these instructions assume that the good side of the
fabric is on the inside of the pocket.)
:::
![Pocket bags sewn to facings](step04a.svg)
### Mark the pocket notch on pocket facing, and front and back leg panels
There's a notch on both front and back leg panels that indicates up to what
point the pocket facing should be attached to the side seam.
Make sure to transfer this notch to both the (edge of the) pocket facing and
the front trouser leg, since it's important we match them.
![Pocket facings with notches](step04b.svg)
### Pin or base the pocket to the front and back leg panel
Both on the front and the back leg panel, we're going to sew the pocket facing
to the side seam.
However, this needs to be precise, so you really want to make sure you either
pin or baste it in place.
:::tip
Start with the front, since that's the easier seam. Once you've got some
practice, you can do the back
:::
![Pocket bags sewn to pant leg panels](step04c.svg)
### Sew the front pocket in place
Sew from the waist down right until the notch that indicates where to stop.
### Press the front pocket slant
Now press the slant of the front pocket, both on the back and front panel, so
that it's a sharp crease.
![Pressed front pocket slant](step04d.svg)
## Step 5: Close the outseam
### Baste the front pockets shut
I strongly advise you to baste the pocket shut/in place before sewing this seam
so that you know it's precise.
Closing the outseam means to place front and back panel with good sides
together, and sew the outer seam. That's easy enough at the legs, but at the
top we have our pocket, which complicates things.
### Sew the top of the outer seam until the top notch of the pocket slant
Make sure everything is neatly aligned. Then sew from the top of the waist down
to the top notch (this is just over a cm or half an inch).
![Outer seam sewn until top notch](step05a.svg)
### Sew the bottom of the outer seam from the bottom notch of the pocket slant
Now move to the bottom notch of the pocket slant, and sew from there all the
way to the bottom of the legs.
![Outer seam sewn from lower pocket notch down](step05b.svg)
### Press the outer seam open
When you're done, make sure to press the seam allowance open along the leg.
Don't press the pocket, we already did that.
## Step 6: Finish the front pocket bag
### Sew pocket bag close inside-out
With our pocket opening constructed and outer seam closed, we should now finish
the pocket bag.
Pull the pocket bag out so that it dangles on the outside of the trouser leg.
Then place both halves together and either use a serger to finish the edge, or
sew closely to the edge.
Make sure you end up at the point where the bottom part of the outer seam
starts.
![Pocket bag, sewn closed](step06a.svg)
### Finish pocket bag edge
When you're done, you can flip the pocket bag back to the inside of the trouser
leg.
Our pocket bag is now closed, but when we put our hand in it, you can feel the
raw edge of the seam allowance. To avoid that, topstitch along the edge of the
pocket bag, locking in the seam allowance.
:::tip
If your seam allowance is wide, you might want to trim it back first.
:::
![Pocket bag, finished](step06b.svg)
## Step 7: Bar-tack the pocket opening
At the place the leg down with the good side up, making sure the pocket bag
lies flat and towards the front panel.
Now at the top and bottom of the pocket opening, place a bar-tack perpendicular
to the outer seam.
![Bar tacks at pocket openings](step07.svg)
## Step 8: Close the inseam
With our front pockets finished, close the inseam of both legs.
When you're done, press open the inseam.
![Closed inseams](step08.svg)
## Step 9: Close the crossseam
:::tip
Double check that your right and left legs match the pattern markings. The
right leg's crotch should extend slightly beyond the left. Refer to the pattern
and cut excess on the left leg if necessary.
It can be valuable to mark with chalk or thread mark the **Center Front** on
each leg. This will help you make sure the pieces are in the right place during
fly construction.
:::
Make sure one leg is turned with the good side out, and the other has the good
side in.
Now tuck the leg with the good side out inside the leg that has the good side
in. This way, they have their good sides against each other.
Align the cross seam, starting at the back waist, pinning both halves together
as you make your way towards the fly. **Stop at the fly notch** and makes sure
to back-stitch.
When you're done. Do it again. Always sew the cross seam twice. It's one of
those best practices you ignore at your own peril.
![Close Crossseam](CloseCrossseam.svg)
:::tip
Take extra care to carefully align the seams where both legs have their back
and front panels joined together. Doing so will ensure your cross seam results
with a perfectly aligned _cross_ where 4 pattern parts meet each other in a
single point.
Getting it just right is one of those things you'll end up cherishing each time
you wear these.
:::
## Step 10: Construct the fly
### Close the fly extension and serge
Fold the fly extension on its fold line with good sides together.
Now sew along the bottom, to close the fly extension.
Trim back one half of the seam allowance to remove bulk before turning it good
side out and pressing.
#### Serge the fly extension and fly facing
Serge (or zig-zag) along the open side of the fly extension. No need to serge
the top as that will get caught in our waistband.
while you're at it, also serge along the entirety of the fly facings J-shaped
edge.
![Close Extension and Serge](CloseExtensionAndSerge.svg)
### Attach the fly facing
Sew fly facing to left leg. You will be sewing slightly past the cross seam
point, so be careful to keep the right leg seam allowance out of the way and
aim to sew directly on top of the cross seam line.
![Attach Facing](AttachFacing.svg)
### Finish the fly facing
Trim the fly facing to half of the seam allowance. Tuck in the tip of the fly
facing and secure it with a few stitches. Edge stitch the fly facing to the
seam allowance. Press the seam allowance toward the facing and understitch the
facing for a clean finish. Again, keeping the right leg seam allowance out of
the way.
![Finish Facing](FinishFacing.svg)
### Edge stitch the zipper to the fly extension
:::tip Zipper Length
It's a good idea to ensure your zipper stop ends before the indicated stitch
line on the pattern. This will ensure you don't sew over your zipper stop and
reduces tension on the bottom of the fly. If your zipper is too long, you can
do a 0 length zig zag stitch to create a new stop (on just the zipper itself).
:::
Edge stitch along the left edge of the zipper to the serged edge of the fly
extension to hold it in place.
![Baste Zipper](BasteZipper.svg)
### Top stitch the right leg to the zipper
Start by pressing the right leg seam allowance to the back.
:::tip
Remember that the seam allowance starts slightly right of the center front, the
center front is marked in purple in the image, make sure you don't fold along
the center front line by mistake.
:::
Ensure you place the folded edge of the right leg just left of the zipper teeth
to prevent fabric from being caught in the zipper.
Stop sewing at the top 'fly extension' notch, slightly above the cross seam,
and be sure to backstitch. If you don't do this you won't be able to keep the
extension out of the way when sewing the J-Seam.
![Attach Extension to Right Leg](AttachExtensionToRightLeg.svg)
### Attach the zipper to the fly facing.
Be careful to align the leg left on the right center front. It can be valuable
to pin or baste through the facing and right side of the zipper tape. (We need
to sew the left side of the zipper tape to the left leg). Ensuring everything
is lined, sew the fly facing to the left side of the zipper. Try to get close
to the zipper, but not too close.
![Attach Facing to Zipper](AttachFacingToZipper.svg)
### Sew the J-seam of the fly
:::tip
Use a piece of paper as a guide to sew the J seam, this can be cut from your
pattern along the indicated stitch line.
:::
Now topstitch the so-called J-seam of the fly. Make sure to keep the fly
extension out of the way. Since you didn't sew all the way along the fly
extension, you should be able to pin it out of the way.
#### Bar tack the bottom of the fly
Now, bartack the very bottom of the J-seam (the horizontal part) but this time
make sure to also catch the fly extension. You can choose to add an additional
bar tack along the J-Seam as well (shown in purple).
![Sew the J-Seam](SewTheJSeam.svg)
## Step 11: Attach the belt loops
### Construct the belt loops
:::note
For efficiency, we will construct one long strip of belt loop that we'll divide
into 8 parts.
:::
Cut a strip 80cm long (32 inch) and 2.8cm wide (1 1/8 inch).
Serge (or zigzag) the long edge of the strip on both sides.
![Finish Loop Edges](FinishLoopEdges.svg)
Fold one side inwards, and the other side over it. Then press down with your
iron. The end result should be a long strip about 1cm wide.
Now sew along the entire length of the strip, smack in the middle of it.
Make sure to use a generous stitch length for this.
Finally, cut your length belt loops strip into 8 equal parts to make 8 belt loops.
![Stitch and Cut Loops](StitchAndCutLoops.svg)
### Attach the belt loops
We're going to divide our belt loops along the waist:
- 2 at the center back, each set aside a bit from the center so there's a small
gap between them.
- 1 above the back dart on each side
- 1 on each side more or less where the side seam would hit the waist if it
went straight up
- 1 on each side from center front. Not too close to each other so there's no
room for belt buckles, but not too far either so it doesn't look weird
Place the belt loop at these places with their good side down (against the good
side of the fabric of your trousers, and the top aligned with the waist) Sew
this down in the seam allowance of the waist, making sure that they are
perpendicular to the waistband.
## Step 12: Attach the waist band
### Assemble curved waistband
If you're making a straight waistband, skip directly to attaching the waistband
to the outside.
Place both waistbands with good sides together, and sew along the top of the
waistband (the shorter edge).
Trim the seam allowance of the inner waistband, and press all seam allowances
towards the inner waistband.
You can now treat your assembled waistband as one piece, and continue as for
the straight waistband.
:::tip
To make sure your inner waistband doesn't peek out, you can _understitch_. Sew
a line of stitching on the inside waistband, close to the edge, through the
inner waistband and seam-allowances (but not the outer waistband!).
:::
### Attach the waist band to the outside
Place the waistband with good sides together along the waist. For the straight
waistband, make sure the side with the standard seam allowance is aligned with
the waist, and not the side with double seam allowance.
Also make sure to leave sufficient seam allowance beyond the start and end of
the waistband.
Sew along the entirety of the waist, attaching the waist band and sewing down
the belt loops in one go.
### Press the waistband seam and fold the waistband
Press the seam you just sewed, pressing the seam allowance up into the
waistband.
Now fold over the waistband at the correct width and press in the crease.
### Close the start and end of the waistband.
At the start and end, fold the waistband over so it has its good sides
together.
Now sew the end shut by sewing top to bottom to just the point where the
waistband seam ends.
Trim back the seam allowance a bit so you can tuck it all into the waistband
later.
### Baste the waistband in place
The waistband has extra seam allowance here, and we're going to use that to our
advantage.
Fold the waistband in the fold you pressed. Then on the inside, fold the seam
allowance inwards, making sure to let it run a few mm beyond the waistband
seam.
You want to baste this in place so it stays put as you make your way around the
waistband.
At the start and end of the waistband, you'll need to tuck in some more seam
allowance. Take a moment to get it right.
### Sew the waistband close
Now with the good side up, sew exactly in the seam that was sewn before (so
called _stitch in the ditch_).
This will catch the back of the waistband which we've made to extend slightly
further, and lock all the seam allowance inside.
## Step 13: Finalize the belt loops
### Sew the belt loops down to make them wider
It's best to make the belt loops a bit wider than the waistband, to accommodate
wider belts.
For this, let the waistband lie flat, and sew it down with a bartack 1.5cm or
so (half an inch) below the waistband.
### Fold upwards, down again, and sew down
Now fold the belt loops upwards (hiding the bartack you just did).
They'll extend beyond the top of the waistband. So fold the excess down again.
Don't fold it over/around the waistband, but fold it double on itself.
Now do a bartack along the top of the waistband to lock the belt loop in place.
When you're done, carefully twist the back of the beltloop to the front and cut
off the excess right next to the bartack.
:::tip
Be careful not to bartack the front of your trousers to the back.
Double-check you don't have any extra layers under your needle because
unpicking a bartack is no joy.
:::
## Step 14: Hem the pants
Fold the hem allowance halfway up, and press.
Then fold them again, and press again.
Finalize by hand and blind hem your trousers.
## Step 15: Button on buttonhole
Create a buttonhole. Either by hand (it's worth practicing) or with a machine.
Finally, attach the button.
Now take a moment to appreciate all the hard work you did.
We hope you'll get a lot of use out of these.

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---
title: 'Back pocket vertical placement'
---
Controls the vertical placement of the back pockets.
Either closer to the waistband, or higher.
Or further from the waistband, or lower.

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---
title: 'Back pocket width'
---
Controls the width of the back pockets.

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---
title: 'Belt loops'
---
Controls how many beltloops we'll generate.

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---
title: 'Cross seam angle'
---
Controls the angle of cross seam curve.
- 0% makes the cross seam draft parallel to the hem.
- Increasing this option will draft the cross seam at that angle away from the hem.

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---
title: 'Cross seam bend'
---
Controls the curvature of the cross seam curve.
:::tip
This curve has an influence on the amount of fabric at your bum.
People with a flatter bum will get a better fit by increasing this, as the
curve will start later, and this there will be less fabric pooling at the bum.
People with a round bum might want to lower this to create a little more
(horizontal) room for their behind.
:::

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---
title: 'Start of the cross seam curve'
---
Controls the start of the cross seam curve.
:::tip
This curve has an influence on the amount of fabric at your bum.
People with a flatter bum will get a better fit by increasing this, as the
curve will start later, and this there will be less fabric pooling at the bum.
People with a round bum might want to lower this to create a little more
(horizontal) room for their behind.
:::

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---
title: 'Crotch drop'
---
Controls by how much the crotch is lowered.
Lowering the crotch makes for a more casual fit.
A significantly lowered crotched can also be a style choice.

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---
title: 'Crotch seam angle'
---
Controls the angle of the crotch seam curve.
- 0% makes the crotch seam draft parallel to the hem.
- Increasing this option will draft the crotch seam at 180 - the angle.

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---
title: 'Crotch seam bend'
---
Controls the curvature of the crotch seam, which influences the fit at your
crotch.

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---
title: 'Start of the crotch seam curve'
---
Controls where the crotch seam starts to curve, which influences the fit at
your crotch.

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---
title: 'Fly curve'
---
This controls the curvature of the fly's J-seam.

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---
title: 'Fly length'
---
Controls the length of the fly.

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---
title: 'Fly width'
---
Controls how far the fly's J-seam is offset from the fly edge.

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---
title: 'Front pocket depth'
---
Controls the depth of the front pocket bag.

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---
title: 'Front pocket facing'
---
Controls the boundary between the front pocket facing and pocket bag.
Increase this to use more facing, which means you'll have to look deeper into
the pocket to start seeing the pocket bag material.

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---
title: 'Front pocket slant bend'
---
Controls the radius by which we round the pocket slant into the outseam.

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---
title: 'Front pocket slant depth'
---
Controls the depth of the front pocket slant.
In other words, it determines how wide the pocket opening is.

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---
title: 'Front pocket slant round'
---
Controls how far from the end of the slant we start rounding into the outseam.

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---
title: 'Front pocket slant width'
---
Controls the width by which the front pocket slant cuts into the front panel.
Increasing this will give a more slanted pocket.

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---
title: 'Front pocket width'
---
Controls the width of the front pocket bag. In other words, how far the pocket
bag extends towards the center front of the trousers.

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---
title: 'Grainline position'
---
Controls the position of the grainline.
You can use this to shift the grainline inward or outward if that works better
for your body.

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---
title: 'Knee ease'
---
Controls the amount of ease at your knees, which also determines the width of
the trouser legs.

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---
title: 'Leg balance'
---
Controls the proportion between the front and back part of the legs.
The back of the trouser legs are always wider than the front. This controls by
how much.
:::tip
Increasing this will make the front leg panel narrower.
This makes the wearer look more skinny.
This trick is often used in womenswear jeans (now you know why you can't find
womenswear jeans with functional front pockets).
:::

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---
title: 'Length bonus'
---
Controls the length of the entire trousers, which essentially means the length
of the legs.
:::tip
Setting this to zero will make the trousers the same length as the [waist to
floor](/docs/measurements/waisttofloor) measurement.
This does not mean that the trousers will hit the floor, since due to the
curves of the body and the way the fabric drapes, the trousers will need to be
longer than this to actually hit the floor.
:::

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---
title: 'Seat ease'
---
Controls the amount of ease at your seat/bum.

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---
title: 'Waist balance'
---
Controls the distribution of fabric between front and back parts at the waist.
It is somewhat in vogue to draft a larger back panel these days.
Doing so shifts the side seam forward which gives the illusion of being
slimmer.
The side effect of shifting the side seam forward is that it's easy
to get into the pockets that are located on the side seam.
This option allows you to control this balance.

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---
title: 'Waistband Curve'
---
Controls how curved the waistband is.
Increasing this will give a curvier waistband, making it smaller at the top
edge of the waistband.

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---
title: 'Waistband width'
---
Controls the width of the waistband.

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---
title: 'Waist ease'
---
Controls the amount of ease at your waist.
Even if you draft lower pants, this will still influence the ease
at the top of your pants (the closure).

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---
title: 'Waist height'
---
Controls the height of the waist, where:
- 100% : The waist of the trousers sits at the waist line
- 0% : The waist of the trousers sits at the hip line

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---
title: "Charlie: FreeSewing's Charlie Chinos"
sidebar_label: Charlie Chinos
---
<DesignInfo design="charlie" />
## Designer Notes {#notes}
I don't think I have ever had a design where I knew what I was going to name
it long before sitting down to actually create it.
Charlie Chinos was just too good to not make happen.
It took a while because it took a long time before
[Titan](https://freesewing.org/designs/titan) was in a state where I was happy
with it. Trousers are hard. Trouser blocks double so.
This is for the most part a rather straight-forward chino pattern, but it has
one twist: The front packets are placed on the side seam. That side seam wraps
around towards the front to give the slanted pocket look.
It's a bit of unusual and creative design that I guess I did because I can?
Anyway, it's something to be mindful of because if you do not expect it the
front panels look a bit weird.
joost
## What You Need {#needs}
To make Charlie, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1.5 meters (1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric
Options](#fabric))
- About 30 centimeters (12 inches) of lining fabric (used for pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing for the back pockets
- A zipper and button for the fly
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
The obvious choice for Charlie chinos, is [chino
fabric](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chino_cloth), which is a cotton twill
fabric. These days it's often sold as a blend to a little bit of stretch,
which is optional.
But you have a lot of options here, and your choice of fabric will influence
what sort of style these project.
Go for **wool** for the most classic look. Check the suiting section of your
fabric store for options. If this is your first pair, some wool-poly blend is
most likely going to be more budget-friendly. But don't let price alone guide
you, buying some cheap whimsical fabric is the best way to come up with a
shitty looking pair of trousers, and get frustrated in the process.
For **cotton**, go for a heavier weight. Cotton might also be a bit easier on
the beginner than wool. If unsure what to use, ask for chino in the fabric
store and simply pick a
colour you like.
Nothing beats **linen** on a hot summer day. It's fun to work with too, but it
does wrinkle like a mofo, and even the most neatly made trousers look somewhat
messy when made in linen. What I'm saying is, maybe not for your first pair.
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
##### From main fabric
- Part **1**: **2 x** _with good sides together_.
- Part **2**: **2 x** _with good sides together_.
- Part **4**: **4 x**
- Part **6**: **2 x**
- Part **8**: **4 x** (2 pairs _with good sides together_)
- Part **9**: **1 x**
- Part **10**: **1 x** on the fold
- Part **11**: **1 x** if making a straight waistband
- Part **11**: **2 x** _with good sides together_ if making a curved waistband
- Part **12**: **1 x**
##### From lining (or any material suitable for pocket bags)
- Part **5**: **2 x**
- Part **7**: **2 x**
##### From fusible interfacing
- Part **3**: **2 x**
:::tip A dash of color perhaps?
You can cut part 4 from a different color for a little contrasting detail at
the back pockets
:::

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---
title: 'Diana draped top: Sewing Instructions'
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
sidebar_position: 20
---
## Step 1: Finish the back neckline
- Cut a strip of main fabric the length of your back neckline, and around 3 cm
wide.
- Press a fold into this strip, 1 cm from the edge.
:::tip
For woven fabric make this a bias cut strip.
For knit fabric make a strip with the stretch of the fabric running along the
long edge.
:::
- With _good sides together_ align the non-folded edge of the strip with the
back neckline.
- Sew the strip to the back neckline and trim the seam.
- Turn the strip to the wrong side of the fabric and _topstitch_ along the
folded edge to keep it in place.
## Step 2: Close shoulder seams
![This drawing was too nice not to use](neckline.jpg)
- Finish the raw edge on the front neckline in a way that suits your fabric (if
it doesn’t fray, you can leave it unfinished).
- With _good sides together_, place the front on the back aligning the shoulder
seams.
- Fold the front neckline seam allowance over to the wrong side of the back.
:::tip
If you have a lightweight woven fabric you can fold this edge up again, so it
will form a narrow double hem afterwards (it can help to press these folds
first).
:::
- Stitch the shoulder seam, enclosing the raw edge of the back neckline in the
fold.
- Turn to the right side and press.
## Step 3: Finish front neckline
Press the hem formed in your fabric by the folds you made at the shoulder seam
when you closed the shoulder and topstitch close to the edge.
## Step 4: Attach sleeves
The sleeve will be inserted flat, meaning the armhole seam will be sewn first
and the sleeve and side seam will be closed in one go.
- With _good sides together_, matching notches, pin the sleeve head along the
armhole.
- If necessary, ease in the sleeve head at the top, between the notches.
- Sew, finish and press the seam.
- Repeat for other sleeve.
## Step 5: Close side and sleeve seam
- With _good sides together_ pin the front to the back along the sleeve and
side seams, making sure to line up the armhole seams.
- Sew, finish and press the seam.
## Step 6: Hem
Finish the sleeves and bottom hems in a way that works with your fabric choice.
Again, this can mean folding the hem under twice and _topstitching_, finishing
the raw edge with a serger or zig zag stitch and folding it under once or
leaving the edge raw, folding it under once and trimming close to the
stitching.
## Step 7: Enjoy!
You're all done! Now go enjoy your new top!

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---
title: 'Across back factor'
---
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder
measurement

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---
title: 'Armhole depth'
---
This option controls the depth of the armhole.
This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth. If you
enable the [legacy armhole
depth](/docs/designs/diana/options/legacyarmholedepth) option, this option will
not apply, but instead it's legacy version [armhole depth
factor](/docs/designs/diana/options/armholedepthfactor) will.

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---
title: 'Armhole depth factor'
---
This option controls the depth of the armhole.

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---
title: 'Biceps ease'
---
![The biceps ease option on Diana](./bicepsease.svg)
This option controls the fit at your upper arm, and influences the depth of the
armhole.

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7
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/diana/options/chestease/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Chest ease'
---
![The chest ease option on Diana](./chestease.svg)
This option controls the ease at your chest.

5
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---
title: 'Cuff ease'
---
The amount of ease at your wrist.

7
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---
title: Draft for high bust
---
Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the
(full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with
breasts.

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sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/diana/options/drapeangle/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Drape angle'
---
![The drape angle option on Diana](./drapeangle.svg)
This option controls the amount of drape of your top.

11
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/diana/options/frontarmholedeeper/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Front armhole extra cutout'
---
Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than
the back.
Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the
sleeve(cap) is more rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper
into the front of the garment than the back. This option controls how much
deeper.

267
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7
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---
title: 'Hips ease'
---
![The hips ease option on Diana](./hipsease.svg)
This option controls the amount of ease at the hips.

15
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---
title: 'Legacy armhole depth'
---
This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth
in Brian, which Diana extends.
The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole
depth.
The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of
the armhole.
If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of
calculating the armhole depth, and Diana will follow.

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---
title: 'Length bonus'
---
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This option controls the length of your top.

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---
title: 'Shoulder ease'
---
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This option controls the position of your shoulder seam.

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---
title: 'Shoulder seam length'
---
![The shoulder seam length option on Diana](./shoulderseamlength.svg)
This option determines how wide the neck opening is, by controlling the length of the shoulder seam.

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---
title: 'Sleevecap back X'
---
import Sleevecapbackfactorx from '../../../brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx/readme.mdx'
<Sleevecapbackfactorx />

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---
title: 'Sleevecap back Y'
---
import Sleevecapbackfactory from '../../../brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory/readme.mdx'
<Sleevecapbackfactory />

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---
title: 'Sleevecap ease'
---
import Sleevecapease from '../../../brian/options/sleevecapease/readme.mdx'
<Sleevecapease />

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---
title: 'Sleevecap front X'
---
import Sleevecapfrontfactorx from '../../../brian/options/sleevecapfrontfactorx/readme.mdx'
<Sleevecapfrontfactorx />

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---
title: 'Sleevecap front Y'
---
import Sleevecapfrontfactory from '../../../brian/options/sleevecapfrontfactory/readme.mdx'
<Sleevecapfrontfactory />

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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q1 offset'
---
import Sleevecapq1offset from '../../../brian/options/sleevecapq1offset/readme.mdx'
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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q1 downward spread'
---
import Sleevecapq1spread1 from '../../../brian/options/sleevecapq1spread1/readme.mdx'
<Sleevecapq1spread1 />

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sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/diana/options/sleevecapq1spread2/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q1 upward spread'
---
import Sleevecapq1spread2 from '../../../brian/options/sleevecapq1spread2/readme.mdx'
<Sleevecapq1spread2 />

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