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title: "Aaron A-Shirt: Cutting Instructions"
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- Cut **1 back** on the fold
- Cut **1 front** on the fold
- Cut **3 strips** for neck opening and armhole binding
<Warning>
#### Caveats
- There is no seam allowance on the armholes
- There is no seam allowance on the neck opening
- There is extra hem allowance at the hem
</Warning>

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title: "Aaron A-Shirt: Fabric Options"
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An A-shirt is essentially underwear. And in that capacity, you want something that is comfortable, feels nice on your skin and breaths.
Cotton with a hint of something stretchy, maybe rayon, or a fine knit. I suggest you go to the fabric store and feel around a bit.
<Note>
While stretch is not required, it does make sense for underwear. That being said, you can make this in a non-stretch, just make sure pick loose or casual fit.
</Note>

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title: "Aaron A-Shirt: Sewing Instructions"
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## Step 1: Close seams
![Close the side and shoulder seams](step01.png)
Put front and back on top of each other with _good sides together_. Sew the side seams and the short seams at the shoulder straps. If you have a serger, this is a good moment to use it. If not, finish your seams otherwise.
## Step 2: Finish hem
![Finish the hem](step02.png)
Fold the hem upwards, and sew it down. If you have a coverlock, use it. If not, use a _twin needle_ or _zig-zag stitch_ to keep the seam stretchable.
<Note>
##### Fold only once, to avoid bulk
Knitwear doesn't ravel, so you can simply fold this over once and sew it down, then neatly trim back the fabric.
</Note>
## Step 3: Sew knit binding to the front
<Note>
##### About knit binding
If you are new to [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding), you might read [this page on the subject](/docs/sewing/knit-binding).
###### Repeat steps 3 and 4 for both armholes and the neck opening
The procedure outlined below applies to both of the armholes as well as the neck opening. In other words, you'll have to do this three times.
###### Start with the simplest opening
I would advise you to start with whatever opening has the most uniform curvature. By default, those are the arm holes, but if you changed the pattern options (think racerback) that might not be the case.
Either way, the less sharp bends you have, the easier it will be. So start with that to warm up before you do the trickier bends.
</Note>
We are going to finish the arm and neck hole with [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding) (note: not a knit band. There's a difference, and it's explained [here](/docs/sewing/knit-binding)).
<Note>
This is the only part of making this A-shirt that requires a bit of practice. Don't worry, all you need to do is make a couple of these and you'll be a pro in no time.
</Note>
### Pick your spot
![Applying knit binding](step03a.png)
The first thing we need to do is decide where we are going to start/stop our binding. Here's what I suggest:
- For the armholes: at the side seam. This will hide our seam under the arm
- For the neck opening: the center back of the neck. You might want to mark this with a pin
### Place (the start of) your binding
![Place (the start of) your binding](step03b.png)
Put your A-shirt down with the good side up, and place your binding strip on top of it with the good side down (as in, good sides together).
Align the long edge of your strip with the edge of your fabric so the strip lies on top of the fabric (not in the opening). Place the corner on your starting point.
Now shift your binding strip 1cm beyond your starting point. This little extra will guarantee we can join the two ends later.
### Make sure you know where to sew
![Make sure you know where to sew](step03c.png)
We are going to sew 1.5cm from the edge. So be careful because this is not the standard seam allowance.
<Tip>
The easy way to keep this 1.5cm distance is by using a seam gauge.
Or do what I do, place a piece of marking tape on your sewing machine and mark a line on it 1.5cm from your needle.
Then all you need to do is keep the edge of your fabric aligned with that line.
</Tip>
Also, we are not starting at our start point, but we skip the first 3cm. We'll need this wiggle room later to join the ends of our binding.
### Sew binding in place
![Sew binding in place](step03d.png)
Sew your binding in place while gently stretching the binding, but not the fabric. Make sure not to sew the last 3cm but leave them, just as you did at the start.
You might need to practice a bit to get the hang of it.
> Make sure to stretch your binding more when you're taking a sharper bend. Read my notes on [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding) for more info.
### Mark binding ends
![Joining the binding ends](step03e.png)
With about 6cm left to go before we complete our circle, it's time to sew the ends of the binding together.
![Mark binding ends](step03f.png)
Take one of the edges, and stretch it along the 3cm seperating it from the start point as you would while sewing.
Mark the binding where it reaches the start point. Do the same for the other end.
### Sew binding ends together
![Join the ends of the binding](step03g.png)
Fold your A-shirt in whatever way makes it easier for you to place both binding ends with good sides together, aligning the marks. Sew them together on the mark.
> 6 cm is not much, but should be enough to get both edges comfortably under your sewing machine to sew them togther.
### Finish last 6cm of binding
![Sew binding ends together](step03h.png)
Now that your binding ends are joined together, it's time to finish the last 6cm of binding. Sew it down, staying 1.5cm from the edge as you did before.
## Step 4: Fold knit binding to the back and sew down
### Fold your binding over the fabric edge to the back
![Fold knit binding to the back](step04a.png)
Fold your binding fabric around the fabric of your A-shirt to the back. This is how we'll sew it down.
> While the fabric is folded double at the front (hiding the fabric edge in the process) there's no need for that at the back. We will merely trim back the edge later, given that knit doesn't ravel. If we were to fold back the fabric at the back too, it would only add bulk.
### Sew your binding down
![Sew the knit binding down](step04b.png)
From the right side of your fabric, sew along the inner edge of your binding (furthest from the edge), making sure to catch the binding at the back in the process.
<Note>
If you have a coverlock machine, that would be perfect for this seam
</Note>
You'll have to, once again, stretch your binding a bit while doing this. But this time, there's an extra caveat to look out for.
<Note>
##### Beware of the uneven feed
As you feed your binding through your sewing machine, the feed dogs will pull the bottom layer (back of your binding) forward.
In a perfect world, all layers will follow smoothly.
But more often than not, the top layer (front of your binding) tends to lag behind a bit.
This causes your binding to not neatly fold around the edge of the fabric, but make ugly wrinkles.
So watch out for this, and if you see it happening, stretch the under-layer a bit extra to compensate.
</Note>
## Step 5: Trim back knit binding on the inside
![Trim back knit binding on the inside](step05.png)
On the inside of your A-shirt, trim back the knit binding against your seam to finish up.
<Note>
Be careful not to cut a hole in your A-shirt. Seriously, this happened to me on more than one occasion.
</Note>
![That's it, you're done 👍](finished.gif)

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title: "Aaron A-Shirt: Required Measurements"
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<PatternMeasurements pattern='aaron' />

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title: "Aaron A-Shirt: What You Need"
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To make Aaron, you will need the following:
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 0.75 meters (0.8 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/aaron/fabric))
<Note>
#### A serger/overlock is nice, but optional
As with all knitwear and stretch fabrics, a serger/overlock will make your life easier.
If you do not have one of those, don't despair. You don't really need it.
Because these side seams and shoulder seams won't get stretched out, you can just sew them with a regular straight stitch.
</Note>

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title: "Armhole drop"
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![The armhole drop option on Aaron](./armholedrop.svg)
How much to lower the armhole below the default amount.
> This option also allows negative values. They will, obviously, raise the armhole by said amount.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](aaron_armholedrop_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Back armhole shape"
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![The back armhole shape option on Aaron](./backlinebend.svg)
Determines the bend of the armhole at the back. In other words, the amount the arm opening is cut-out on your back.
> Higher values bend the armhole more, resulting in a more raceback-style top.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](aaron_backlinebend_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Chest ease"
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![The chest ease option on Aaron](./chestease.svg)
How much room do you want at the chest?
Whatever value you provide here will simply be added to your chest circumference measurement when drafting the garment.
> Given that an undershirt has no arms, a little chest ease goes a long way. Add too much, and you'll end up with gaping armholes.
> ##### This option also allows negative values
>
> You should only use negative ease if you are using a stretch material that you want to fit tightly. Overall stretch should be configured with the **stretch** option.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](aaron_chestease_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Hips ease"
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![The hips ease option on Aaron](./hipsease.svg)
How much room do you want at the hips?
Whatever value you provide here will simply be added to your hips circumference measurement when drafting the garment.
> ##### This option also allows negative values.
>
> You should only use negative ease if you are using a stretch material that you want to fit tightly. Overall stretch should be configured with the stretch option.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](aaron_hipsease_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Length bonus"
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![The length bonus option on Aaron](./lengthbonus.svg)
How much longer than the default length to make your top.
> This option allows negative values, which will shorten/crop the top.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](aaron_lengthbonus_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Neckline shape"
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![The neckline shape option on Aaron](./necklinebend.svg)
Determines the bend of the front of the neck opening.
> Higher values bend the neck opening more, resulting in a more squarish neck opening.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](aaron_necklinebend_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Neckline drop"
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![The neckline drop option on Aaron](./necklinedrop.svg)
Determines how much to lower the neckline of the top beyond the default.
> Higher values lower the neckline further, resulting in more exposed skin.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](aaron_necklinedrop_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Shoulderstrap placement"
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![The shoulder strap placement option on Aaron](./shoulderstrapplacement.svg)
Determines the position of the shoulder strap on the shoulder.
> Lower values place the strap closer to the neck, whereas higher values place it closer to the shoulder.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](aaron_shoulderstrapplacement_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Shoulderstrap width"
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![The shoulder strap width option on Aaron](./shoulderstrapwidth.svg)
Determines the width of the shoulder straps.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](aaron_shoulderstrapwidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Stretch"
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![The stretch factor option on Aaron](./stretchfactor.svg)
How much does your fabric stretch? Choose 0% if your fabric does not stretch.
> ##### This option does only impact stretch one-way (horizontal).
>
> Four-way stretch is not really a concern for this top, but if you want you can play with the [length bonus](../lengthbonus) option.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](aaron_stretchfactor_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Aaron A-Shirt: Design Options"
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<PatternOptions pattern='aaron' />

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title: "Aaron A-Shirt"
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<PatternDocs pattern='aaron' />

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title: "Albert apron: Cutting Instructions"
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- Cut **1 front** on the fold
- Cut **1 pocket** on the fold
- Cut **2 straps**

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title: "Albert apron: Fabric Options"
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An apron works best with a fabric that is sturdy, tightly woven, and easy to clean. In addition, make sure to go for a natural fibre and in any case something that is heat-resistant.
Heavy cotton, chino, canvas or denim are all excellent choices.
When in doubt, go for raw denim (pure cotton, if it stretches it's no good).

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title: "Albert apron: Sewing Instructions"
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### Step 1: The Pocket
- Along the top of the pocket fold the seam allowance to wrong side, press.
- Then fold the top hem allowance to wrong side and press, making sure the seam allowance is tucked underneath. Pin in place if you need to.
- Press the seam allowance of the sides and bottom to the wrong side.
- On the right side topstich close to where the hem edge lies underneath, making sure to catch the hem and seam allowances as you sew.
- Pin the pocket to the front using the guides.
- _Edgestitch_ the sides and bottom of the pocket leaving the top open. Make sure to backstitch at the start and end to secure the pocket properly.
<Tip>
If you have trouble catching the top hem we suggest to either _Baste_ close to the hem edge first, and use that as a guide when stitching on the right side or pin the hem edge down from the right side making sure the pins are parallel to the top edge and use them as a guide.
</Tip>
<Note>
There are multiple ways to sew a patch pocket so use the way you prefer if you do not like this one.\
A fun thing you can do is embroider/stitch the pocket with the name of the person the apron is for or even a cute design. Just remember that aprons typically get dirty so don't go to overtop with it.
</Note>
### Step 2: The Front
- Press under the side seam allowances to the wrong side.
- Press under the side seams to the wrong side along the hem lines making sure the seam allowances are tucked underneath.
- On the right side topstich close to where the folded edges lie underneath, making sure to catch the hems as you sew.
- Repeat Step 2 for the top and bottom hems.
<Note>
It is recommended to hem the side seams before the top and bottom seams as they are narrower.\
The side seams are narrow hems simply being the seam allowance folded over twice.
</Note>
### Step 3: The Straps
- Fold one strap in half, right sides together and sew the top and side together.
- Turn inside out through the bottom. Press.
- Using the cross and rectangle as a guide, stitch the top of the strap to the wrong side of the front on the top left.
- Using the cross and rectangle as a guide, stitch the bottom of the strap to the wrong side of the front at the side right.
- Repeat Step 3 for the remaining strap attaching it at the top right and then the side left.
<Note>
You can make another set of straps to tie at the back if you wish to keep the apron close to body when moving.
</Note>
### Step 4: Enjoy!
You're done! Now go enjoy your apron and make every stain a memory!

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title: "Albert apron: Required Measurements"
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<PatternMeasurements pattern='albert' />

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title: "Albert apron: What You Need"
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To make Albert, you will need the following:
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 1.25 meters (1.4 yards) (depending on the length of your apron) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/albert/fabric))

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title: "Back opening"
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Controls the amount of opening at the back of your apron.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](albert_backopening_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Bib length"
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Controls the length of the _bib_ part of your apron.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](albert_biblength_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Bib width"
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Controls the width of the _bib_ part of your apron.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](albert_bibwidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Strap length"
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Controls the length of the straps on your apron.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](albert_chestdepth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Length bonus"
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How much longer than the default length to make your apron.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](albert_lengthbonus_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Strap width"
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Controls the width of the straps on your apron.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](albert_strapwidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Albert apron: Design Options"
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<PatternOptions pattern='albert' />

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title: "Albert apron"
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<PatternDocs pattern='albert' />

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---
title: "Bee bikini top: Cutting Instructions"
---
There are three variations of this pattern. **One Colour**, which is where the bikini top is made out of one colour. **Two Colours**, where the bikini top is made reversible by using two colours, and **Cross Back Tie Variant**, where the neck ties tie in the back replacing the band tie.
## Materials
### One Colour (Non-Reversible)
**Main fabric**
- Cut **4 cup** parts.
- Cut **2 neck tie** parts.
- Cut **1 band tie** part.
### Two Colours (Reversible)
**Main fabric**
- Cut **2 cup** parts from main.
- Cut **2 neck tie** parts.
- Cut **1 band tie** part.
**Lining fabric**
- Cut **2 cup** parts.
- Cut **2 neck tie** parts.
- Cut **1 band tie** part.
### Cross Back Tie Variant.
**Main fabric**
- Cut **4 cup** parts or Cut **2 cups** from main and lining if making reversible ties.
- Cut **2 neck tie** parts or Cut **2 neck ties** from main and lining if making reversible ties.
- Cut **1 band** part if making cross back tie variant instead of band tie variant.
<Note>
This pattern is easily made reversible by buying a similar fabric to the main fabric and using it as contrast. To save confusion on instructions it will be refered to as the lining fabric.
</Note>

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---
title: "Bee bikini top: Fabric Options"
---
### Main and Lining Fabric
The main and lining fabric are the same type of material. Bee is made with swimwear fabrics such as lycras.
<Note>
You only need lining fabric if you intend to make the pattern reversible or if you want the band for the cross back tie variant to be a constrasting fabric. Otherwise you can cut all the required pieces from your main fabric.
</Note>

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---
title: "Bee bikini top: Sewing Instructions"
---
<Warning>
Make sure to use a stretch stitch
</Warning>
<Note>
When making a reversible top the second colour will be refered to as the lining fabric.\
The notches in this pattern act more like dots so **do not** clip them to mark them.
</Note>
### Step 1: Construct the Neck Ties
#### Neck Ties One Colour Method
- Fold one of the neck tie pieces in half lengthwise, right sides and raw edges together.
- Sew along the raw edges, leaving one of the short ends open.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners.
- Turn inside out and press.
<Note>Repeat this for the other neck tie</Note>
#### Neck Ties Two Colours Method
- With right sides together, sew one main neck tie to one lining neck tie leaving one of the short edges open.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners.
- Turn inside out. Press.
<Note>Repeat this for the the remaining neck tie pieces</Note>
### Step 2: The Cups
#### Band Tie Variant
- With raw edges and main fabric together, _baste_ one of the neck ties to the top of one of the cup pieces making sure that the tie goes towards the bottom of the cup.
- With the neck tie sandwiched inside, pin a lining cup piece right sides together to the main cup piece.
- Sew the lining to the main cup between notches along the front, top and side seams, making sure not to catch the neck tie and to reinforce the stitch at the notches.
- (Optional) Fold to the wrong side and _edgestitch_ the seam allowance down between notches on the front and side seams. Do not sew the allowances together.
- With good sides together, sew the lining to the main fabric along the bottom, leaving a gap between the side notches making sure to reinforce the stitch at the either end.
- Trim the seam allowances of the sewn edges whilst leaving the seam allowance between the notches. Clip the corners. You may also need to clip the curved seams.
- Turn inside out by pulling the neck tie through one of the gaps. Press.
- (Optional) _edgestitch_ the top, sides and bottom of the cup leaving the gaps between the notches open.
- Stitch along casing line to create band channel.
<Note>Repeat this for the other cup</Note>
<Tip>
If your seam allowance is wide you may find that you need to trim the gaps' seam allowances a little to reduce bulk.\
If you are having trouble turning the cups you can try one of these methods:
- Create a 2.5cm (1") gap in the front or side seam and turn throught that, either _slipstitch_-ing the gap closed or _edgestitch_-ing it closed during Step 7.
- Widen one of the existing gaps and turn through that. Then when turned _edgestitch_ or _slipstitch_ the widened part closed.
</Tip>
<Note>
Whilst certainly optional it is recommended to _edgestitch_ the top and sides of the cups but the bottom is entirely optional.
</Note>
#### Cross Back Ties Variant
- With raw edges and main fabric together, _baste_ one of the neck ties to the top of one of the cup pieces making sure that the tie goes towards the bottom of the cup.
- With the neck tie sandwiched inside, pin a lining cup piece right sides together to the main cup piece.
- Sew the lining to the main cup along the front, top and side seams, making sure not to catch the neck tie.
- Turn the cups right side out and press.
- (Optional) _edgestitch_ the top and sides of the cups.
- Sew a line of basting stitches along the bottom of the cups, just inside the seamline.
- Gather cups along the basting stitches.
<Tip>
The amount you gather the cups is a matter of preference and cup size, but you can hold them up to yourself before stitching in place to ensure the fit is right.\
There are also notches on either side of the band piece's midpoint to help give you an idea of how much to gather by.
</Tip>
- Find the midpoint of the band piece, this is marked by a notch, then pin the gathered bottoms of cups to band piece, right sides together. You'll want the cups to meet at the band's midpoint.
- Stitch the cups to the band. Once they're stitched in place, check the fit of the cups once more before continuing. Unpicking swim fabric is a pain, so it's better to make sure the cups fit just right before moving on.
<Note>
You may prefer to wrap the one cup over the other at the midpoint. To do this place the sides of the cups at the otuer notches and lay their fronts pass the midpoint with the left on top.
</Note>
- Now it's time to finish the band. To do this, fold in the seam allowance on both sides of the band. The raw edges of your swim cups should be turned to the inside of the band. Then, fold the band in half lengthwise, aligning the long edges and enclosing the seam allowances. Swim fabric can be slippery, so you may need extra pins or clips to hold the fabric in place.
- Stitch along the top of the band, securing the seam allowances within the band.
<Tip>
For extra support, you can also add swim elastic into the band, either by stitching clear elastic into the band's seam allowance, or by threading swim elastic through the band at this point.
</Tip>
- At this point, the band is a long tube with open ends. Next, we'll be sewing those closed while providing a loop to thread your neck ties through. To do this fold over one end of the band towards the inside of the swim top. The amount you fold over should be, at minimum, the width of your neck ties plus a seam allowance. Stitch the end down to create a loop at least as wide as your neck ties. There will be a lot of pressure on this point, so make sure your stitching is secure, and consider running a second line of stitching next to the first, for additional support. Repeat for the other end of the band.
- To thread your neck-ties for cross back ties, take the tie from the left cup and thread it through the loop on the right side of the band, from top to bottom. Thread the tie from the right cup top-to-bottom through the loop on the left side of the band. Then tie the neck ties at center back to secure the swim top.
- Skip to "Step 5: Enjoy!"
### Step 3: Band tie
You only need to do this step if making the band tie variant.
#### Band Tie One Colour Method
- Fold the band tie piece in half lengthwise, right sides and raw edges together.
- Sew along the raw edges, leaving one of the short ends open.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners.
- Turn inside out. Press.
#### Band Tie Two Colours Method
- With right sides together, sew the main band tie to the lining neck tie leaving one of the short edges open.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners.
- Turn inside out. Press.
### Step 4: Putting it all together.
- Thread the band tie through the gaps along the bottom edge of the cups, making sure the front sides of the cups are in the centre and that the main and lining sides are on the respective side.
### Step 5: Enjoy!
Hooray, your Bee Bikini Top is finished!

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<PatternMeasurements pattern='bee' />

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---
title: "Bee bikini top: What You Need"
---
To make Bee, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 - 1 metre (0.6 - 1.1 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bee Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bee/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 0.5 - 1 metre (0.6 - 1.1 yards) of lining fabric ([see Bee Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bee/fabric/))
- (Optional) Ribbons/Tapes/Cords for neck ties and bands, with the same length and width as neck tie and/or band.
<Note>
The lining fabric is only needed if you want to make this pattern reversible. If you don't, you only need the main fabric.\
You can use a serger/overlocker to construct this pattern but it is not mandatory.\
Ribbons/Tapes/Cords can be used instead of making custom ties. Just make sure to get more than you need and that you cut down to size after construction.
</Note>

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---
Controls the armhole depth in the underlying Bella block Bee is based on
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_armholedepth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Back dart height (Bella)"
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---
Controls the back dart height in the underlying Bella block Bee is based on
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_backdartheight_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Band Length (Cross back ties)"
- - -
---
Controls the length of the band around your chest for the cross back ties variation of Bee
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_bandlength_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Band (chest) tie length colours"
- - -
---
Whether you want single color tie around your chest, or dual-coloured ones
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_bandtiecolours_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Band (chest) tie ends"
- - -
---
Whether you like straight or pointy ends on the tie around your chest
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_bandtieends_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Band (chest) tie length"
- - -
---
Controls the length of the tie around your chest
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_bandtielength_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Band (chest) tie width"
- - -
---
Controls the width of the tie/band around your chest
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_bandtiewidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Show Bella"
- - -
---
Shows the outline of the Bella block Bee is based on
This is to help give context to the other options of Bee especially when using the fit options
<Note>
It is recommended to have this on when adjusting the options for this pattern but also to turn it off before printing
</Note>
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_bellaguide_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Bottom depth"
- - -
---
Controls how far the bikini cup extends downwards
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_bottomcupdepth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Bust span ease"
- - -
---
Controls the bust span ease in the underlying Bella block Bee is based on
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_bustspanease_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Chest ease"
- - -
---
Controls the chest ease in the underlying Bella block Bee is based on
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_chestease_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Cross back ties"
- - -
---
A variation of Bee, where the neck ties cross and tie in the back by looping into a band that replaces the band tie
#### Default
- 2 neck ties
- 1 band tie
The neck ties are sewn into the cups and tie at the neck like a halter.\
The band tie is thread through casings in the cups and ties with itself at the back
#### Cross Back Ties
- 2 neck ties
- No band tie
The band tie and casing on the cups are replaced by a band which is sewn with loops in the back.\
The neck ties are longer and cross over each other in the back, then go through the loops in the band and then tie with one another.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_crossbackties_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Front armhole pitch depth (Bella)"
- - -
---
Controls the front armhole pitch depth in the underlying Bella block Bee is based on
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_frontarmholepitchdepth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Front curve"
- - -
---
Controls the curvature of the front of the bikini cup
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_frontcurve_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Front shoulder width (Bella)"
- - -
---
Controls the front shoulder width in the underlying Bella block Bee is based on
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_frontshoulderwidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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---
title: "Full chest reduction (Bella)"
---
---
Controls the full chest reduction in the underlying Bella block Bee is based on
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_fullchesteasereduction_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "High bust width (Bella)"
- - -
---
Controls the high bust width in the underlying Bella block Bee is based on
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_highbustwidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Neck tie colours"
- - -
---
Whether you want single color ties around your neck, or dual-coloured ones
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_necktiecolours_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Neck tie ends"
- - -
---
Whether you like straight or pointy ends on the ties around your neck
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_necktieends_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Neck tie length"
- - -
---
Controls the length of the ties around your neck
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_necktielength_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Neck tie width"
- - -
---
Controls the width of the ties around your neck
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_necktiewidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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---
title: "Shoulder to Shoulder ease (Bella)"
---
---
Controls the shoulder to shoulder ease in the underlying Bella block Bee is based on.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_shouldertoshoulderease_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Side curve"
- - -
---
Controls the curvature of the side of the bikini cup
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_sidecurve_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Side depth"
- - -
---
Controls how far the bikini cup extends towards the side
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_sidedepth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Ties"
- - -
---
Whether to includes ties, yes or no
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_ties_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Top Depth"
- - -
---
Controls how far the bikini cup extends upwards
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_topdepth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Bee bikini top: Design Options"
- - -
<PatternOptions pattern='bee' />

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title: "Waist ease"
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---
Controls the waist ease in the underlying Bella block Bee is based on
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bee_waistease_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Bee bikini top"
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<PatternDocs pattern='bee' />

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title: "Bella body block: Cutting Instructions"
- - -
**Main fabric**
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
- Cut **2 Back** parts.
These cutting instructions are just for the default Bella block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block.
<Tip>
If you do not have someone to help pin you into Bella then you may find it easier to Cut 2 Front parts with seam allowance and sew the backs up when constructing so you can pin in the front.
</Tip>
<Note>
###### Bella is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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title: "Bella body block: Fabric Options"
- - -
If you are making a default Bella to see how it fits we recommend a fabric such as **Calico (Muslin)** or a cheaper fabric that matches the drape and stretch of the fabric you intend to make a finalised version of Bella with.
You can use scraps of fabrics from your stash so don't worry about buying fabric specifically for Bella.
<Note>
###### Bella is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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title: "Bella body block: Sewing Instructions"
- - -
<Note>
###### Bella is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns so the instructions below will not go in depth about closures or finishes and are for the default Bella block.
</Note>
### Step 1: Mock-up Construction
- Close the front bust and waist darts.
- Close the back darts.
- Sew the front to the backs at the shoulders _good sides together_.
- Sew the front to the backs at the side seams _good sides together_.
<Tip>
If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams _wrong sides together_ to make them easier to adjust.
</Tip>
### Step 2: Try it on
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
- Make any alterations and try it on again.
- Repeat until you are happy.
<Tip>
If you do not have someone to help with pinning, you may find it easier to cut the front part in two with seam allowance rather than on a fold and sew the back seam up so that you can pin in the front when trying on.
Keep an eye out for anything you keep doing whilst wearing the mock-up, are you pulling it down? Constantly adjusting the shoulder? etc. Things like these are signs of where the pattern may need adjusting.
Sometimes you may need to wear the mock-up for an extended amount of time to get a better sense of the fit so don't be afraid to walk around in it for a couple of hours.
</Tip>
<Note>
Remember to treat Bella as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look.\
For instance:
- Change the neck line
- Add/change the closure allowances
- Alter the dart placements
- Add a collar
It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
</Note>
### Step 3: Make a paper pattern
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
<Note>
It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.
</Note>

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title: "Bella body block: Required Measurements"
- - -
<PatternMeasurements pattern='bella' />

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- - -
title: "Bella body block: What You Need"
- - -
To make Bella, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bella Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bella/fabric/))
This list is for a default Bella Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.
<Note>
###### Bella is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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---
title: "Armhole depth"
---
---
![The effect of the armhole depth option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **armhole depth** option controls the depth of the armhole.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_armholedepth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Back armhole curvature"
---
---
![The effect of the back armhole curvature option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **back armhole curvature** option controls how much the armhole is scooped at out the bottom in the back.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_backarmholecurvature_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Back armhole pitch depth"
---
---
![The effect of the back armhole pitch depth option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **back armhole pitch depth** option controls the vertical position of the armhole pitch point at the back.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_backarmholepitchdepth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Back armhole slant"
---
---
![The effect of the back armhole slant option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **back armhole slant** slightly rotates the armhole around the back pitch point.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_backarmholeslant_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Back dart height"
---
---
![The effect of the back dart height option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **back dart height** option controls the height (length if you will) of the back dart.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_backdartheight_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Back hem slope"
---
---
![The effect of the back hem slope option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **back hem slope** option controls the slope of the hem at the back.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_backhemslope_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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---
title: "Back neck cutout"
---
---
![The effect of the back neck cutout option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **back neck cutout** option controls how far the neck opening is scooped out at the back.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_backneckcutout_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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---
title: "Bust dart curve"
---
---
![The effect of the bust dart curve option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **bust dart curve** option controls the curvature of the bust dart. From straight to slightly curved.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_bustdartcurve_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Bust dart length"
---
---
![The effect of the bust dart length option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **bust dart length** option controls the length of the bust dart. The maximum length brings the dart all the way to the bust apex.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_bustdartlength_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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---
title: "Bust span ease"
---
---
![The effect of the bust span ease option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **bust span ease** option controls how much ease is applied to the bust span.
<Note>This will not add ease to the garment, but merely influence the bust point</Note>
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_bustspanease_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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---
title: "Chest ease"
---
---
![The effect of the chest ease option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **chest ease** option controls the amount of ease at the fullest part of your chest.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_chestease_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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---
title: "Front armhole curvature"
---
---
Controls how deep the armhole is scooped out at the front bottom
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_frontarmholecurvature_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Front armhole pitch depth"
---
---
![The effect of the front armhole pitch depth option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **front armhole pitch depth** option controls the vertical position of the armhole pitch point at the front.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_frontarmholepitchdepth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Front shoulder width"
---
---
![The effect of the front shoulder width option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **front shoulder width** option controls the width of the shoulders at the front, relative to the back.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_frontshoulderwidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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---
title: "Full chest ease reduction"
---
---
Allows you to independently reduce the ease around the chest to make it fit tight(er) in that area
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_fullchesteasereduction_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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---
title: "High bust width"
---
---
![The effect of the high bust width option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **high bust width** option allows you to tweak the high bust width at the front.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_highbustwidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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---
title: Shoulder to Shoulder ease
---
Controls the amount of ease between your shoulders. Initially set to -.5% because Bella implements a block that is used in the industry.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_shouldertoshoulderease_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Bella body block: Design Options"
- - -
<PatternOptions pattern='bella' />

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title: "Waist dart length"
---
---
![The effect of the waist dart length option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **waist dart length** option controls the length of the waist dart towards the bust.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_waistdartlength_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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---
title: "Waist ease"
---
---
![The effect of the waist ease option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **waist ease** option controls the amount of ease at your waist.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](bella_waistease_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Bella body block"
- - -
<PatternDocs pattern='bella' />

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title: "Benjamin bow tie: Cutting Instructions"
- - -
Benjamin is a rather simple pattern, but your options will determine what needs to be cut out. Below are two typical layouts.
## Without adjustment ribbon
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **4 Knot**
- Cut **2 Collar band**
- **Interfacing**
- Cut **4 interfacing knot**
- Cut **2 interfacing collar band**
## With adjustment ribbon
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **1 Knot 1**
- Cut **1 Knot 2**
- Cut **2 Knot 3**
- **Interfacing**
- Cut **1 interfacing knot 1**
- Cut **1 interfacing knot 2**
- Cut **2 interfacing knot 3**

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title: "Benjamin bow tie: Fabric Options"
- - -
The bow ties you find in the store are typically make out of silk or some imitation silk poly. So it will come as no surprise that those are good options. Any type of fabric that you like the pattern or looks of can become a candidate for a bow tie. The only real limitation is that the bow tie will have to be turned inside out through a tube that is only 2cm across. With some thicker fabrics, this will be a difficult proposition.
Bow ties are more whimsical than normal ties, so having a fun pattern or loud colour is not as much of a problem as it would be with a regular tie.
Silk and silk imitation is slippery and tricky to work with. This can be compensated for with a fusible interfacing.
## Interfacing
Depending on the fabric you chose for your bow tie, you will probably need interfacing. Interfacing comes in two main types: fusible and sew-in.
The fusible variety has some adhesive attached to one side that is activated with the heat of your iron. This attaches the interfacing to the fabric and the two can then be used as one. Fusible interfacing can be a great option if your fabric allows the heat required, and you use a quality interfacing. Some lesser quality interfacings can have the adhesive detach, and this shows as bubbles on the fabric surface later on in the life of your bow tie. Good quality interfacings and correctly following the guidelines for adhering the interfacing will not present these problems.
Sew-in interfacing is sew into place before the fabric pieces are used. You attach the interfacing to the fabric by sewing the two together inside the seam allowance. If you use a seam allowance of 6mm, you will sew the interfacing at 3mm. Anything may work as a sew-in interfacing, including an extra layer of the same fabric.
The key part of the interfacing is to give your bow tie the structure you like. You can have a bow tie that stands proud and crisp. Or one that droops a bit at the tips. This is all about your preference.
It is good to experiment with the interfacing on a scrap piece of your fabric, specially with the fusible kind. You want to make sure you get the structure you like before committing it to your pattern pieces.
Although the pattern calls for applying interfacing to all parts, if you have thick or stiff fabric, you may be able to only do one side, or no sides at all.

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title: "Benjamin bow tie: Sewing Instructions"
- - -
## Notes and tips
### Precision
Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precission with sewing is key to a good result. Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out. To get a great result I found it very helpful to trace the actual seam lines onto the interfacing and follow that while sewing.
### Press wisely
Later in the construction steps, you will be asked to press your fabric. Please be careful that you are not using too much heat on a delicate fabric that can't handle it.
It's a good idea to try pressing some fabric scraps before you start. This will allow you to figure out what is a good heat setting for the fabric you are using.
### Choosing your grain
This pattern includes a grain line. This grain line is mostly there to be used with the interfacing. Since each pattern piece is interfaced, the grain line of the fabric itself is not so important. You can even change this from the standard for more informal impressions.
<Note>
If this all sounds very confusing, might I suggest reading the help
page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
</Note>
### Bow tie adjustment ribbon
This pattern allows you to make a bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck size. It can also make one that has a ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie adjustable to different neck sizes. This is useful if not all of your shirts have the same neck measurements, or if you sometimes like shirts with more ease in the neck.
These ribbons can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
### Seam allowance
Since the bow tie is constructed with the right sides of the fabric against each other, the whole thing will have to be turned inside out. You probably want to consider using a small seam allowance of 6mm (¼ inch) to reduce the bulk.
## Construction
### Step 1: Apply interfacing
Apply interfacing to all parts where you feel it's needed.
### Without adjustment ribbon
#### Step 2: Sew the knot to the collar band
Put the collar band part on the bow tie knot part, right sides together. Align the ends of both parts. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
![Sew the collar band to the knot](step12.png)
Do this for each end on both collar bands.
Press open all the seams.
You now have two identical single sided bow ties.
#### Step 3: Join both sides
![Sew both sides together](step13.png)
Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all along, but leaving an area of 5cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
#### Step 4: Turning
![Clip seam allowance](step14.png)
Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for a smooth curves.
Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny object, to turn the two sides right-side-out through the little opening. Start by gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
Once you have the tie right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides out before giving it a good press.
#### Step 5: Closing
![Closing the bow tie](step15.png)
Now all that is left is closing the litle hole we used to turn the bow tie right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch. Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
Now give it one last press and admire your work.
### With adjustment ribbon
#### Step 2: Attaching the ribbon
![Sew the ribbon to part 1](step22.png)
The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the shortest of the bow parts. The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as the long bow piece.
Put right sides of the short bow piece and the ribbon together.
Now sew across the end to join the parts.
#### Step 3: Join both sides
![Sew both sides together](step23.png)
Lay both the parts of the medium bow on top of each other, right sides together. And lay the long bow on top of the ribbon and short bow part, also rights sides together.
Sew all along, but leave the short ends open. Through these openings we will turn the bow tie parts right side out.
#### Step 4: Turning
![Clip seam allowance](step14.png)
Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for a smooth curves.
Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny object, to turn the two parts right-side-out through the ends. Start by gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
Once you have the part right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides out before giving it a good press.
Do this with both parts.
#### Step 5: Add hardware
Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable. The oval looking piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon. And the piece with the T shaped attachment will go on the part with the ribbon.
First do the part without the ribbon. This is because the fabric tail of the ribbon piece will have to go through the oval part before sewing on its hardware. If you would do it in the other sequence, you may not be able to feed it through.
To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps:
![Three steps to fold, one step to sew](step25.png)
First we fold the side in under an angle. Then we fold the end over by just a small seam allowance, something like 5mm. Then we fold it over again, for about 1cm. Finally we stick the oval ring under this last fold and stitch across.
Now feed the ribbon piece through the oval part and finish it the same way.
Hook the T in one of the adjustment holes and your bow tie is done!
![Good job!](finished.gif)

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<PatternMeasurements pattern='benjamin' />

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To make Benjamin, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/benjamin/fabric/)). Left over pieces of a recent project could work too.
- About the same amount of interfacing
- Optionally: Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware

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title: "Adjustment ribbon"
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![Traditional or adjustable](adjustmentribbon.svg)
With Benjamin, you can make a traditional fixed size bow tie. And you can make one that incorporates an adjustment ribbon. These are ribbons and pieces of hardware that allow you to change the neck size of the bow tie. Very handy when you have shirts with different neck sizes, or if you have different ease in the collar for some.
<Tip>
This is a great option if you decide to make a bow tie for someone else as a gift.
</Tip>
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](benjamin_adjustmentribbon_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Bow length"
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![Bow length](bowlength.svg)
You can make wide bow ties, or narrow ones. This option allows you to change the horizontal size of the bows. Make them larger to be more flamboyant, or small for a more subdued style.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](benjamin_bowlength_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "Bow style"
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Four different bow tie styles!
Benjamin allows you to make four different bow ties.
- Contemporary Diamond
- Traditional Butterfly
- Classic Square
- Whimsical Wide Square
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](benjamin_bowstyle_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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![How much ease do you use for your collar?](collarease.svg)
Using the neck circumference is one part of getting a well-fitting bow tie. The other is how much collar ease you normally use for your shirts. Together they dictate how long the bow tie becomes.
> #### Not used with the adjustment ribbon option
>
> This option is used to make a precise fitting bow tie. When you use the adjustment ribbon, this option is not used.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](benjamin_collarease_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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title: "End style"
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![Three different tip shapes](endstyle.svg)
In addition to having four different bow tie styles, each style can be individualized with three different tip options:
- Straight
- Pointed
- Round
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](benjamin_endstyle_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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