From 25329419fc834d2dea30bc94c846b06f4369f053 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Joost De Cock Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2021 11:09:52 +0100 Subject: [PATCH 1/8] New translations en.md (German) --- markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/de.md | 3 ++- 1 file changed, 2 insertions(+), 1 deletion(-) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/de.md b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/de.md index dba4a371d07..46dc181374a 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/de.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/de.md @@ -12,6 +12,7 @@ Die Stoffbruchlinie wird mit einem doppeltem Pfeil markiert, wie in diesem Beisp -Für eine Übersicht aller Markierungen auf deinem Schnittmuster, siehe [Anleitung für Schnittmuster-Notation][1] +For an overview of all indicators on your pattern, refer to the [pattern notation guide](/docs/various/notation/) + From ba314002a540e68df3766ee71c9395747bfe0719 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Joost De Cock Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2021 11:09:53 +0100 Subject: [PATCH 2/8] New translations en.md (French) --- markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/fr.md | 3 +-- 1 file changed, 1 insertion(+), 2 deletions(-) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/fr.md b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/fr.md index 80160233b41..a7d5027be2b 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/fr.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/fr.md @@ -12,8 +12,7 @@ La ligne de pli est indiquée avec une double flèche, comme dans cet exemple : -Pour un aperçu de tous les indicateurs de votre patron, reportez-vous au [guide de notation du patron][1] +For an overview of all indicators on your pattern, refer to the [pattern notation guide](/docs/various/notation/) -[1]:/docs/various/notation/ From 66c0e2697b7b7f7d7b54f681c1aaee7b75a4c309 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Joost De Cock Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2021 11:09:54 +0100 Subject: [PATCH 3/8] New translations en.md (Spanish) --- markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/es.md | 3 ++- 1 file changed, 2 insertions(+), 1 deletion(-) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/es.md b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/es.md index 4db43d12ec0..ba91bd28962 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/es.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/es.md @@ -12,6 +12,7 @@ La línea plegable se indica con una doble flecha como en este ejemplo: -Para una visión general de todos los indicadores en tu patrón, consulta la [guía de notación de patrones][1] +For an overview of all indicators on your pattern, refer to the [pattern notation guide](/docs/various/notation/) + From 966cc23bcf01dfd1cace9a29139307f2fb863e06 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Joost De Cock Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2021 11:09:55 +0100 Subject: [PATCH 4/8] New translations en.md (Dutch) --- markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/nl.md | 3 ++- 1 file changed, 2 insertions(+), 1 deletion(-) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/nl.md b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/nl.md index 63a0abca73b..477ee6f9350 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/nl.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/on-the-fold/nl.md @@ -12,6 +12,7 @@ De vouwlijn wordt aangegeven met een dubbele pijl zoals in dit voorbeeld: -Voor een overzicht van alle indicatoren op uw patroon, ga naar de [patroonnotatie handleiding][1] +For an overview of all indicators on your pattern, refer to the [pattern notation guide](/docs/various/notation/) + From cda9823e59907c3eac7cd8711ca5d0021f9036ea Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Joost De Cock Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2021 11:38:11 +0100 Subject: [PATCH 5/8] New translations en.md (French) --- .../docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/fr.md | 228 ++++++++++-------- 1 file changed, 127 insertions(+), 101 deletions(-) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/fr.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/fr.md index 083bc348421..573b46407a1 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/fr.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/fr.md @@ -2,215 +2,241 @@ title: Construction de Holmes --- -### Glossary -- ***Edgestitch*** : Trancher 1/8" (3mm) de distance ou plus près de la couture +### Step 1: Prepping the Pieces -- ***Toppoint*** : Sur point extérieur de 1/4" (6mm) de la couture. +- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces. +- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for a more precise sew which is key for hat construction. -- ***Slippoint*** : Un point caché pour joindre les bords pliés au corps ou à une autre arête pliée. - -- ***Whipstitch*** : Un point de recouvrement proche. Aussi connu sous le nom de Fell Stitch. - -- ***Sous-couture*** : Appuyer sur la couture de doublure et la couture loin du tissu principal. Faire cuire près de la couture sur la doublure accrochant la marge de couture au-dessous. - -- ***Baste*** : De longs points temporaires pour assembler des pièces. Peut être usiné ou cousu à la main. - -- ***Pad Stitch*** : A parallel running stitch to secure two layers together. - -- ***Tack*** : Une sitch en cours d'exécution à un endroit pour sécuriser les pièces ensemble. - -Les termes du glossaire seront formatés en ***gras et en italique*** ci-dessous. - -### Étape 1 : Préparation des morceaux - -__1.__ Si nécessaire, Interface la couronne et la moitié des morceaux de rabat de l'oreille. -__2.__ Si ce n'est pas déjà fait, il est recommandé de marquer les lignes de couture de vos pièces de tissu par un marqueur temporaire ou par un marquage du fil. Ceci est pour une couture plus précise qui est la clé pour la construction de chapeaux. -Le marquage du fil permet de voir la ligne de couture à la fois sur les côtés de droite et sur les mauvais côtés. +Thread marking allows for the seam line to be seen on both the right and wrong sides. + -Même si vous êtes confronté à la couronne, vous ne voudrez peut-être pas faire face à l'oreille si vous voulez qu'ils soient moins rigides lorsque vous vous tapotez. +Even if you face the crown you may not want to face the ear flaps if you want them to be less rigid when tieing down. + -Ces instructions supposent que vous avez marqué vos lignes de couture. Ils peuvent être plus difficiles à suivre si vous sautez cette étape. +These instructions assume you have marked your seam lines. They may be harder to follower if you skip this step. -### Étape 2 : La Couronne +### Step 2: The Crown -__1.__ Avec les côtés droit ensemble, coudre les lignes de couture et les pics, coudre deux pièces de couronne ensemble. -__2.__ Appuyez sur les coutures ouvertes. Vous avez fait besoin d'utiliser un jambon tailleur pour cela, si vous n'en avez pas, vous pouvez utiliser des flanques ou des serviettes à la place. -__3.__ (facultatif) ***Edgestitch*** les deux côtés de la couture, en s'assurant de prendre les autorisations de couture. -__4.__ Répétez les étapes 1 et 2 jusqu'à ce que vous ayez deux moitiés. Si la moitié du nombre de pièces de couronne est un nombre impair, vous devrez coudre une pièce à chaque moitié. Par exemple, si vous avez 6 pièces de couronne, vous fabriquez deux moitiés de 3 pièces cousues ensemble à deux pièces. -__5.__ Avec les côtés droit ensemble, coudre les lignes et les pics, coudre les deux moitiés ensemble. Il peut être plus facile de broder le sommet ensemble en raison de la masse ou de la précision. Cette couture sera désignée comme la « couture de couronne centrale » qui va de l'avant. __6.__ (facultatif) ***Edgestitch*** Les deux côtés de la couture centrale de la couture, en s'assurant de prendre les autorisations de couture. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together. +- Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not have one you can use flannels or towels instead. +- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances. +- Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn together pieces. +- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk or for precision. This seam will be refered to as the "centre crown seam" going forward. +- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances. -Selon votre marge de couture, vous pourriez vouloir couper les coutures au fur et à mesure que vous allez réduire les coutures. +Depending on your seam allowance you may want to trim seams as you go to reduce bulk. -### Étape 3 : Les flacons des oreilles +### Step 3: The Ear Flaps #### Flaps des oreilles avec des cravates -__1.__ Couper deux 12 " (30cm) - 16 " (40cm) de longueur de ruban. Ils seront désignés comme des liens à venir. -__2.__ ***Coller*** une cravate sur le côté droit d'un rabat auditif (celui interfacé s'il utilise). Répéter pour une autre cravate. -__3.__ Avec les côtés droit ensemble, coudre des lignes de couture, coudre un rabat d'oreille cravate à un rabat d'oreille non cravate. -__4.__ Clip et découpe couture autorisée. -__5.__ Retournez à l'intérieur et appuyez dessus. -__6.__ (facultatif) ***Topstitch*** ou ***Edgestitch*** le bord plié. -__7.__ ***Baste*** les bords bruts ensemble. -__8.__ Répétez les étapes 3 à 7 pour le rabat auditif restant. +- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be refered to as ties going forward. +- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap. +- Clip and trim seam allowance. +- Turn inside out and press. +- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge. +- _Baste_ the raw edges together. +- Repeat steps 3 to 7 for the remaining ear flap. + -If you are uncertain about the length you want for you ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut in half. Utilisez ces moitiés comme des liens dans les instructions ci-dessus. Les cravates sont terminées à la fin afin de pouvoir ajuster les longueurs. +If you are uncertain about the length you want for your ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut it in half. Use these halves as the ties in the instructions above. The ties are finished at the end so you can adjust the lengths then. + -Les longueurs ci-dessus sont des recommandations donc n'hésitez pas à aller aussi longtemps ou aussi court que vous le souhaitez avec les attaches. -If you prefer you can make your ties with your main fabric, you can find how to [here](https://freesewing.org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/). +The lengths above are recommendations so feel free to go as long or as short as you like with the ties. +If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, you can find how to do so in [the Holmes cutting instrations](https://freesewing.org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/). #### Flaps de l'oreille avec trous de boutons -__1.__ Face au dos de deux des trous de boutons. (Ce n'est pas nécessaire si deux flaps ont déjà été interfacés) -(This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced) __2.__ With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not). -__3.__ Clip et découpe couture autorisée. -__4.__ Retournez à l'intérieur et appuyez dessus. -__5.__ (facultatif) ***Toppoint*** ou ***Edgestitch*** la bordure pliée. -__6.__ ***Baste*** les bords bruts ensemble. -__7.__ Coudre le trou de bouton dans votre méthode préférée. -__8.__ Répétez les étapes 2 à 7 pour le rabat auditif restant. +- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced) +- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not). +- Clip and trim seam allowance. +- Turn inside out and press. +- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge. +- _Baste_ the raw edges together. +- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method. +- Repeat steps 2 to 7 for the remaining ear flap. + -Les clapets de l'oreille devront être assez longs pour dépasser le sommet de la crête afin qu'ils puissent être remplis par un bouton sur la crête. N'utilisez pas cette méthode si vous n'utilisez pas de bouton en haut. +The ear flaps will need to be long enough to go over the top of the peak so they can be done up by a button on the peak. Do not use this method if you are not using a button on the top. + -**Pour les flacons des oreilles avec des cravates et des trous de boutons** -Il est recommandé de ***Topstitch*** au moins les flacons de l'oreille, mais cela peut ne pas être souhaitable avec certains motifs, donc a été marqué comme facultatif. +**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes** + +It is recommended to at least _topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional. -### Step 4: The Bill +### Step 4: The Visors -There are two methods for constructing the bill. This is due to the different types of materials the bill inserts can be made of. La méthode 1 est pour les matériaux qui ne seront pas endommagés par une aiguille ou un fer. La méthode 2 est pour les matériaux qui seront endommagés par une aiguille ou un fer. Lisez les deux méthodes pour déterminer quelle est la meilleure méthode à utiliser. +There are two methods for constructing the visors. This is due to the different types of materials the visor inserts can be made of. Method 1 is for materials that will not be damaged by a needle or iron. Method 2 is for materials that will be damaged by a needle or iron. Read both methods to determine which is best for you to use. #### The Bill Method 1 -__1.__ Place bill insert on one bill piece inside seam lines. __2.__ Temporarily secure bill insert to bill with temporary ***Pad Stitches***. This will be refered to as "faced bill" going forward. __3.__ ***Baste*** along the seam line of the inner curve of the bill, making sure not to catch the bill insert. __4.__ With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced bill to another bill piece along the outer curve close to the bill insert, making sure not to catch the bill Insert. __5.__ Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) __6.__ Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the bill insert. __7.__ Using the previous basting line as a guide, ***Baste*** the opening closed. __8.__ Repeat steps 1 to 7 for remaining bill pieces. +- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines. +- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward. +- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert. +- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) +- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert. +- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed. +- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces. -Faites attention à la chaleur d'un fer lorsque vous utilisez certains matériaux d'insertion. You do not want to melt the Bill Insert and damage both it and the fabric. +Be careful with the heat of an iron when using certain insert materials. You do not want to melt the Visor Insert and damage both it and the fabric. + -If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Veillez simplement à ce que le tissu de votre chapeau ne soit pas endommagé lors de l'enlèvement ou de l'application. +If preferred you can temporarily attach the visor insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Just make sure it does not damage your hat fabric when removing or applying. #### The Bill Method 2 -__1.__ With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two bill pieces together. __2.__ Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) __3.__ Turn inside out and press. __4.__ Insert bill insert in to sewn bill tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the bill insert. __5.__ Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the bill insert. __6.__ ***Baste*** as close as you can to the inner curve of the bill insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew. +- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together. +- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) +- Turn inside out and press. +- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor. +- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert. +- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew. +- Repeat steps 1 to 6 for the remaining visor pieces. -### Étape 5 : Assemblage et doublure +### Step 5: Assembly and Lining -Une fois de plus, il y a deux méthodes pour l'assemblage et la doublure finales. Lisez attentivement les deux méthodes pour déterminer quelle est la meilleure pour vous. +Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both methods carefully to determine which is best for you. #### Méthode de montage et de doublure 1 -__1.__ Les centres d'appariement et les lignes de couture alignent le rabat à droite de l'un des panneaux qui ne fait pas partie de la couture centrale de la couronne. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). __2.__ ***Baste*** the ear flap to the crown along seam lines __3.__ Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. __4.__ Align centre front of bill with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the bill insert is on the bottom. __5.__ Hand-***Baste*** the bill to the crown matching the bill basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to ***Baste*** the centre down first and then work from the centre out. It easier to ***Baste*** the centre down first and then work from the centre out. __6.__ Sew the bill to the crown along seam lines. Vous pouvez trouver plus facile de coudre la visière en permanence à la main plutôt que d'utiliser une machine. -. Répéter les étapes 4 à 6 pour la visière restante du côté opposé de la couture de couronne centrale. -__8.__ Retirez tous les patins et points de bâton. -__9.__ Appuyez sur les droits de couture à l'intérieur, en veillant à ce que la couture ne soit pas visible à l'extérieur. -__10.__ (facultatif) Vraiment ***Whipstitch*** les coutures à l'intérieur de la couronne en s'assurant que la couture ne se montre pas à l'extérieur. -__11.__ Construire de la même manière que la couronne omet ***Edgestitching*** . -__12.__ Pliez et appuyez sous la couture inférieure de la doublure. Il se peut que vous ayez besoin d'appuyer sous plus pour éviter que la doublure ne s'affiche. You may also find you need to ***Baste*** the seam allowance down. __13.__ Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines. __14.__ ***Slipstitch*** or ***Whipstitch*** the lining to the seam allowance of the hat. __15.__ Remove lining basting if used. __16.__ (Optional) ***Tack*** the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Il s'agit de contribuer à éviter que la doublure ne s'effondre. +- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). +- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines. +- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. +- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom. +- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out. +- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine. +- Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam. +- Remove all pad and basting stitches. +- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside. +- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside. +- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_. +- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down. +- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines. +- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat. +- Remove lining basting if used. +- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. #### Méthode de montage et de doublure 2 -__1.__ Les centres d'appariement et les lignes de couture alignent le rabat à droite de l'un des panneaux qui ne fait pas partie de la couture centrale de la couronne. S'assure que la face est placée contre la couronne (si elle est visée). -. ***Baste*** le rabat de l'oreille à la couronne le long des lignes de couture -__3.__ Répétez les étapes 1 et 2 pour le rabat d'oreille restant sur le côté opposé de la couronne. -____ Aligner le devant central de la visière avec le côté droit de la couture de couronne du centre en s'assurant que l'insertion du viseur est sur le fond. -__5.__ Main -***Baste *** la visière à la couronne correspondant aux lignes de fixation de la visière aux lignes de la couture de la couronne. Il est plus facile de ***Baste*** le centre d'abord vers le bas, puis de travailler depuis le centre. -__6.__ (Facultatif) Machine-***Baste*** la visière à la couronne le long des lignes de couture. -__7.__ Répétez les étapes 4 à 6 pour la visière restante du côté opposé de la couture de couronne centrale. -____ Construire la doublure de la même manière que la couronne ommise ***Edgestitching*** et laisser un écart dans la doublure centrale suffisamment grand pour tourner le chapeau. -__9.__ Avec des côtés droit ensemble, coutures de couronne au centre, coutures de panneau et lignes de couture. Coudre la doublure à la couronne le long des lignes de couture. Si vous êtes volumineux, vous voudrez peut-être couper les coutures de doublure ou les deux coutures. __10.__ Tournez le chapeau à l'intérieur, en appuyant sur la doublure à l'intérieur. -__11.__ (Optionnel/Alternatif à 13.) ***Understitch*** lining. -__12.__ ***Slipstitch*** lining opening closed. -__13.__ (Optional/Alternate to 11.) ***Topstitch*** or ***Edgestitch*** along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew. -__14.__ (Optional) ***Tack*** the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. +- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). +- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines +- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. +- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom. +- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out. +- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines. +- Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam. +- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat. +- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Sew the lining to the the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to trim either the lining seams or both seams. +- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside. +- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining. +- Slipstitch lining opening closed. +- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew. +- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. -**For both Assembly and Lining Methods** -You can attach the bills on first, just make sure the bills are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the bills to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions. +**For both Assembly and Lining Methods** + +You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the visors to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions. + **For both Assembly and Lining Methods** -If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the bills, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the bill and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the bill to shape. Assurez-vous juste de cacher cette broderie et les clips lorsque vous fixez la doublure. + +If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the visors, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the visor and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the visor to shape. Just make sure to hide this stitching and the clips when attaching the lining. + -**Pour les méthodes d'assemblage et de doublage** -Les instructions d'assemblage et de confection sont écrites avec 6 panneaux en tête. You may find the placement of bills and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule generally the centre front of the bill is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling. +**For both Assembly and Lining Methods** + +Assembly and Lining instructions are written with a 6 panelled Holmes in mind. You may find the placement of visors and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling. -### Étape 6: Finition des cravates +### Step 6: Finishing Ties -Si vous n'avez pas réduit vos attaches lors de la construction de l'oreille, il est temps de le faire. If you made your ties with your main fabric then you do not need to do these steps. Lisez à nouveau à travers les deux méthodes soigneusement et choisissez lequel est le meilleur pour vous. +If you did not cut your ties down when constructing the ear flaps, now is the time to do so. If you made custom ties with fabric then you do not need to do these steps. Again read through both methods carefully and pick which is the best for you. #### Méthode de finition des cravates 1 -__1.__ Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold. __2.__ Unfold. __3.__ If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent. __4.__ Repeat steps 1 to 3 for the remaining tie. +- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold. +- Unfold. +- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent. +- Repeat steps 1 to 3 for the remaining tie. #### Méthode de finition des cravates 2 -***Baste*** the raw edges together. __8.__ Repeat steps 3 to 7 for the remaining ear flap. +- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed. +- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie +- Repeat steps 1 to 2 for the remaining tie. -Pour déterminer la façon dont vous voulez plier les cravates, il vous sera peut-être plus facile de nouer l'oreille en premier. Généralement, vous voulez que le pli se trouve au dessous des liens, mais comme toujours il est de préférence personnelle. +To determine which way you want to fold the ties, you may find it easier to tie the ear flaps up first. Generally you want the fold to be on the underside of the ties but as always it is personal preference. -### Étape 7 : Bouton +### Step 7: Button -À moins que vous ne fassiez les Flaps de l'oreille du bouton, vous n'avez pas à coudre un bouton sur le bouton, mais il peut être utile si vous voulez cacher les coutures mal alignées au sommet de la couronne. +Unless you are doing the Buttonhole Ear Flaps you do not have to sew a button on but it may be useful if you want to hide any misaligned seams at the crown peak. -__1.__ Construct a covered button. __2.__ Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams. __3.__ Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and ***Whipstitch*** the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move. +- Construct a covered button. +- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams. +- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move. -Bien que facultatif, il se peut que vous trouviez un bouton qui manque dans le chapeau pour finir l'apparence. Donc, si vous n'êtes pas sûr de ce point, faites un bouton rapide et placez-le temporairement pour voir si c'est ce qui manque. If it is attach it permanently. -Bien qu'un bouton couvert soit recommandé, vous pouvez utiliser n'importe quel bouton que vous désirez, n'hésitez pas à expérimenter ! +Whilst certainly optional, you may find that a button is what is missing from the hat to finish the look. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what missing. If it is, attach it permanently. +Whilst a covered button is recommeneded you can use whatever button you desire, feel free to experiment! -### Étape 8 : Profitez de votre nouveau chapeau! +### Step 8: Enjoy your new hat! -Voilà! « Vous avez fini. » Maintenant profitez du monde dans votre nouveau chapeau merveilleux tout en résolvant un crime ou deux! +That's it! You're all done. Now enjoy the world in your wonderful new hat whilst maybe solving a crime or two! -Rappelez-vous que ces instructions ne sont que des lignes directrices, donc ne vous inquiétez pas si vous voulez construire le chapeau différemment. -Les diagrammes doivent encore être faits pour ce modèle, donc en attendant, si vous avez besoin d'une aide visuelle, regardez la vidéo YouTube qui a inspiré ce modèle : +Remember these instructions are just guidelines so don't worry if you want to construct the hat differently. +The Diagrams are yet to be made for this pattern so in the mean time if you need a visual aid, watch the YouTube video that inspired this pattern: From 8ae8bdd3ffc2369f17b6f69161ec164dbccd4101 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Joost De Cock Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2021 11:38:13 +0100 Subject: [PATCH 6/8] New translations en.md (Spanish) --- .../docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/es.md | 228 ++++++++++-------- 1 file changed, 127 insertions(+), 101 deletions(-) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/es.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/es.md index 7a458c13555..12d0e4f89ea 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/es.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/es.md @@ -2,215 +2,241 @@ title: Construcción de Holmes --- -### Glossary -- ***Edito*** : Unir 1/8" (3mm) de distancia o más cerca de la costura +### Step 1: Prepping the Pieces -- ***Topstitch*** : Enchufe exterior 1/4" (6mm) lejos de la costura. +- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces. +- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for a more precise sew which is key for hat construction. -- ***Deslizar*** : Una unión oculta para unir bordes plegados al cuerpo u otro borde plegado. - -- ***Whipstitch*** : Una stitch de overcast cerca. También conocido como una unión falsa. - -- ***Understitch*** : Presione la costura y la costura lejos de la tela principal. Colóquese cerca de la costura en el revestimiento que captura la franquicia de costura por debajo. - -- ***Baste*** : Largas juntas temporales. Se puede mecanizar o coser a mano. - -- ***Pad Stitch*** : A parallel running stitch to secure two layers together. - -- ***Tack*** : Un asiento en un lugar para asegurar piezas juntos. - -Los Términos del Glosario se formatearán en ***negrita y cursiva*** abajo. - -### Paso 1: Preparando las Piezas - -__1.__ Si es necesario, interfiere con la corona y la mitad de las piezas de la tapa del oído. -__2.__ Si aún no lo ha hecho, se recomienda marcar las líneas de costura en las piezas de la tela mediante un marcador temporal o por rosca. Esto es para una costura más precisa que es clave para la construcción de sombrero. -La marca de hilos permite ver la línea de costura tanto en el lado derecho como en el incorrecto. +Thread marking allows for the seam line to be seen on both the right and wrong sides. + -Incluso si usted se enfrenta a la corona puede que no quiera enfrentarse a las aletas auriculares si quiere que sean menos rígidas cuando se atan. +Even if you face the crown you may not want to face the ear flaps if you want them to be less rigid when tieing down. + -Estas instrucciones asumen que has marcado tus líneas de costura. Pueden ser más difíciles de seguir, si te saltas este paso. +These instructions assume you have marked your seam lines. They may be harder to follower if you skip this step. -### Paso 2: La Corona +### Step 2: The Crown -__1.__ En el lado derecho juntos, combinando líneas de costura y picos coser dos coronas juntas. -__2.__ Presione las costuras abiertas. Para ello, si no dispone de jamón puede utilizar flanneles o toallas en su lugar. -__3.__ (Opcional) ***Edgestión*** a ambos lados de la costura, asegurándose de capturar los permisos de costura. -__4.__ Repite los pasos 1 y 2 hasta que tenga dos mitades. Si la mitad del número de piezas de la corona es un número impar, tendrás que coser una sola pieza para cada mitad. Por ejemplo, si usted tiene 6 piezas de la corona, usted hace dos mitades de 3 coser una pieza a dos piezas cocidas juntas. -__5.__ Con los lados derechas juntos, emparejar las líneas de costura y los picos, coser las dos mitades. Es posible que le resulte más fácil unir la mano debido a la masa o a la precisión. Esta costura será referida como la "costura de la corona central" que avanza. __6.__ (Opcional) ***Edito*** a ambos lados de la costura de la corona central, asegurándose de capturar las cuotas de costura. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together. +- Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not have one you can use flannels or towels instead. +- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances. +- Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn together pieces. +- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk or for precision. This seam will be refered to as the "centre crown seam" going forward. +- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances. -Dependiendo de su franquicia de costura puede que desee recortar costuras a medida que vaya a reducir el granel. +Depending on your seam allowance you may want to trim seams as you go to reduce bulk. -### Paso 3: Las flaps auriculares +### Step 3: The Ear Flaps #### Aleteados con ataduras -__1.__ Corta la longitud de ribbon de dos 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm). Se referirán a ellos como lazos que avanzan. -__2.__ ***Golpea*** un empate al lado derecho de una aleta de la oreja (la interfazada si la usa). Repetir para otro empate. -__3.__ En el lado derecho unido, que coincida con las líneas de costura, coser una aleta para el oído atada a una alfombra. -__4.__ Recortar y recortar permisos de costura. -__5.__ Apagar y presionar. -__6.__ (Opcional) ***Topstitch*** o ***Edgestión*** el borde plegado. -__7.__ ***Baste*** los bordes crudos juntos. -__8.__ Repite los pasos 3 a 7 para la aleta del oído restante. +- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be refered to as ties going forward. +- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap. +- Clip and trim seam allowance. +- Turn inside out and press. +- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge. +- _Baste_ the raw edges together. +- Repeat steps 3 to 7 for the remaining ear flap. + -If you are uncertain about the length you want for you ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut in half. Utilice estas mitades como los lazos en las instrucciones anteriores. Los lazos están terminados al final para que puedas ajustar las longitudes entonces. +If you are uncertain about the length you want for your ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut it in half. Use these halves as the ties in the instructions above. The ties are finished at the end so you can adjust the lengths then. + -Las longitudes anteriores son recomendaciones, así que siéntete libre de ir tan largo o corto como quieras con los vínculos. -If you prefer you can make your ties with your main fabric, you can find how to [here](https://freesewing.org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/). +The lengths above are recommendations so feel free to go as long or as short as you like with the ties. +If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, you can find how to do so in [the Holmes cutting instrations](https://freesewing.org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/). #### Brillantes con agujeros de botones -__1.__ Enfréntate a la parte trasera de dos de los agujeros de botón. (Esto no es necesario si dos flaps ya han sido conectados) -(This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced) __2.__ With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not). -__3.__ Recortar y recortar permisos de costura. -__4.__ Apagar y presionar. -__5.__ (Opcional) ***Topstitch*** o ***Edgestión*** el borde plegado. -__6.__ ***Baste*** los bordes crudos juntos. -__7.__ Agarra el agujero del botón en el método preferido. -__8.__ Repita los pasos 2 a 7 para la bofetada restante. +- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced) +- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not). +- Clip and trim seam allowance. +- Turn inside out and press. +- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge. +- _Baste_ the raw edges together. +- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method. +- Repeat steps 2 to 7 for the remaining ear flap. + -Las aletas auditivas tendrán que ser lo suficientemente largas para pasar por encima de la cima para que se puedan hacer con un botón en el pico. No utilice este método si no está usando un botón en la parte superior. +The ear flaps will need to be long enough to go over the top of the peak so they can be done up by a button on the peak. Do not use this method if you are not using a button on the top. + -**Para ambas banderas con ataduras y agujeros de botón** -Se recomienda al menos ***Topstitch*** las aletas de oreja, pero esto puede no ser deseable con ciertos patrones, así que ha sido marcado como opcional. +**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes** + +It is recommended to at least _topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional. -### Step 4: The Bill +### Step 4: The Visors -There are two methods for constructing the bill. This is due to the different types of materials the bill inserts can be made of. El método 1 es para materiales que no serán dañados por una aguja o hierro. El método 2 es para materiales que serán dañados por una aguja o hierro. Leer ambos métodos para determinar cuál es el mejor para usar. +There are two methods for constructing the visors. This is due to the different types of materials the visor inserts can be made of. Method 1 is for materials that will not be damaged by a needle or iron. Method 2 is for materials that will be damaged by a needle or iron. Read both methods to determine which is best for you to use. #### The Bill Method 1 -__1.__ Place bill insert on one bill piece inside seam lines. __2.__ Temporarily secure bill insert to bill with temporary ***Pad Stitches***. This will be refered to as "faced bill" going forward. __3.__ ***Baste*** along the seam line of the inner curve of the bill, making sure not to catch the bill insert. __4.__ With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced bill to another bill piece along the outer curve close to the bill insert, making sure not to catch the bill Insert. __5.__ Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) __6.__ Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the bill insert. __7.__ Using the previous basting line as a guide, ***Baste*** the opening closed. __8.__ Repeat steps 1 to 7 for remaining bill pieces. +- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines. +- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward. +- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert. +- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) +- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert. +- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed. +- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces. -Tenga cuidado con el calor de un hierro cuando utilice ciertos materiales de inserción. You do not want to melt the Bill Insert and damage both it and the fabric. +Be careful with the heat of an iron when using certain insert materials. You do not want to melt the Visor Insert and damage both it and the fabric. + -If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Asegúrate de que no daña tu tela de sombrero al remover o aplicar. +If preferred you can temporarily attach the visor insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Just make sure it does not damage your hat fabric when removing or applying. #### The Bill Method 2 -__1.__ With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two bill pieces together. __2.__ Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) __3.__ Turn inside out and press. __4.__ Insert bill insert in to sewn bill tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the bill insert. __5.__ Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the bill insert. __6.__ ***Baste*** as close as you can to the inner curve of the bill insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew. +- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together. +- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) +- Turn inside out and press. +- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor. +- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert. +- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew. +- Repeat steps 1 to 6 for the remaining visor pieces. -### Paso 5: Colmena y Lining +### Step 5: Assembly and Lining -Una vez más, hay dos métodos para el montaje final y el revestimiento. Lea ambos métodos cuidadosamente para determinar cuál es el mejor para usted. +Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both methods carefully to determine which is best for you. #### Método de Ensamblado 1 -__1.__ Centros de coincidencia y líneas de costura alinean la aleta del oído con el lado derecho de uno de los paneles que no forma parte de la costura central de la corona. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). __2.__ ***Baste*** the ear flap to the crown along seam lines __3.__ Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. __4.__ Align centre front of bill with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the bill insert is on the bottom. __5.__ Hand-***Baste*** the bill to the crown matching the bill basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to ***Baste*** the centre down first and then work from the centre out. It easier to ***Baste*** the centre down first and then work from the centre out. __6.__ Sew the bill to the crown along seam lines. Puede que le resulte más fácil coser permanentemente el visor en lugar de usar una máquina. -. Repita los pasos 4 a 6 para el visor restante en el lado opuesto de la costura de la corona central. -__8.__ Retire todas las almohadillas y batidos. -__9.__ Presione los permisos de costura hacia adentro, asegurándose de que la unión no sea visible en el exterior. -__10.__ (Opcional) De forma suelta ***Whipstitch*** las costuras en el interior de la corona asegurándose de que la unión no se muestre en el exterior. -__11.__ Construir el revestimiento del mismo modo que la corona omitando ***Edgestitching*** . -__12.__ Plegar y pulsar debajo de la costura inferior del forraje. Puede que tenga que pulsar debajo de más para evitar que el revestimiento se muestre. You may also find you need to ***Baste*** the seam allowance down. __13.__ Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines. __14.__ ***Slipstitch*** or ***Whipstitch*** the lining to the seam allowance of the hat. __15.__ Remove lining basting if used. __16.__ (Optional) ***Tack*** the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Esto es para ayudar a evitar que el revestimiento se caiga. +- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). +- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines. +- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. +- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom. +- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out. +- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine. +- Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam. +- Remove all pad and basting stitches. +- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside. +- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside. +- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_. +- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down. +- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines. +- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat. +- Remove lining basting if used. +- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. #### Método de Ensamblaje 2 -__1.__ Centros de coincidencia y líneas de costura alinean la aleta del oído con el lado derecho de uno de los paneles que no forma parte de la costura central de la corona. Asegúrate de que el lado frontal esté colocado contra la corona (si está cara). -. ***Bastar*** la aleta auricular a la corona a lo largo de las líneas de costura -__3.__ Repetir los pasos 1 y 2 para la aleta del oído restante en el lado opuesto de la corona. -__4.__ Alinear la parte central del visor con la parte derecha de la costura de la corona central asegurándose de que la inserción del visor esté en la parte inferior. -__5.__ Manipulación-***Baste*** el visor de la corona que coincide con las líneas del visor de fundición con las líneas de costura de la corona. Es más fácil ***Bastar*** el centro hacia abajo primero y luego trabajar desde el centro hacia fuera. -__6.__ (Opcional)-***Bastar*** el visor a la corona a lo largo de las líneas de costura. -__7.__ Repetir pasos 4 a 6 para el visor restante en el lado opuesto de la costura de la corona central. -__8.__ Construir el revestimiento del mismo modo que la corona omitando ***Edgestitching*** y dejar un hueco en la costura del revestimiento central lo suficientemente grande como para dar la vuelta al sombrero. -__9.__ En los lados rectos, juntas con las costuras del centro de la corona, las costuras del panel y las líneas de costura. Difundir el revestimiento a la corona a lo largo de las líneas de costura. Si es voluminoso puede querer recortar las costuras de forro o ambas costuras. __10.__ Volver el sombrero hacia adentro. -__11.__ (Opcional/Alternar a 13.) ***Understitch*** lining. -__12.__ ***Slipstitch*** lining opening closed. -__13.__ (Optional/Alternate to 11.) ***Topstitch*** or ***Edgestitch*** along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew. -__14.__ (Optional) ***Tack*** the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. +- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). +- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines +- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. +- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom. +- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out. +- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines. +- Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam. +- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat. +- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Sew the lining to the the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to trim either the lining seams or both seams. +- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside. +- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining. +- Slipstitch lining opening closed. +- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew. +- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. -**For both Assembly and Lining Methods** -You can attach the bills on first, just make sure the bills are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the bills to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions. +**For both Assembly and Lining Methods** + +You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the visors to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions. + **For both Assembly and Lining Methods** -If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the bills, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the bill and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the bill to shape. Simplemente asegúrese de ocultar este stitching y los clips al adjuntar el forraje. + +If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the visors, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the visor and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the visor to shape. Just make sure to hide this stitching and the clips when attaching the lining. + -**Tanto para los métodos de ensamblaje como para los de estiramiento** -Las instrucciones de ensamblaje y aprendizaje están escritas teniendo en cuenta los 6 hoyos panelados. You may find the placement of bills and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule generally the centre front of the bill is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling. +**For both Assembly and Lining Methods** + +Assembly and Lining instructions are written with a 6 panelled Holmes in mind. You may find the placement of visors and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling. -### Paso 6: Finalizando ataduras +### Step 6: Finishing Ties -Si no cortaron sus lazos cuando construyeron los tapones de los oídos, ahora es el momento de hacerlo. If you made your ties with your main fabric then you do not need to do these steps. Una vez más, lea los dos métodos cuidadosamente y escoja cuál es el mejor para usted. +If you did not cut your ties down when constructing the ear flaps, now is the time to do so. If you made custom ties with fabric then you do not need to do these steps. Again read through both methods carefully and pick which is the best for you. #### Finalizando método Ties 1 -__1.__ Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold. __2.__ Unfold. __3.__ If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent. __4.__ Repeat steps 1 to 3 for the remaining tie. +- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold. +- Unfold. +- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent. +- Repeat steps 1 to 3 for the remaining tie. #### Finalizando método Ties 2 -***Baste*** the raw edges together. __8.__ Repeat steps 3 to 7 for the remaining ear flap. +- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed. +- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie +- Repeat steps 1 to 2 for the remaining tie. -Para determinar cuál es la forma en que quieres doblar los lazos, te resultará más fácil atar las aletas de los oídos primero. Generalmente quieres que el pliegue esté en la parte inferior de los lazos pero como siempre es preferencia personal. +To determine which way you want to fold the ties, you may find it easier to tie the ear flaps up first. Generally you want the fold to be on the underside of the ties but as always it is personal preference. -### Paso 7: Botón +### Step 7: Button -A menos que esté haciendo las aletas de ojo de botón, no tiene que coser un botón, pero puede ser útil si quiere ocultar cualquier costura mal alineada en el pico de la corona. +Unless you are doing the Buttonhole Ear Flaps you do not have to sew a button on but it may be useful if you want to hide any misaligned seams at the crown peak. -__1.__ Construct a covered button. __2.__ Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams. __3.__ Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and ***Whipstitch*** the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move. +- Construct a covered button. +- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams. +- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move. -Aunque sin duda opcional, puede que encuentre un botón es lo que falta en el sombrero para terminar la mirada. Por lo tanto, si no están seguros de la mirada a este punto, crear un botón rápido y colocarlo temporalmente para ver si esto es lo que falta. If it is attach it permanently. -Mientras que un botón cubierto está cubierto puedes usar cualquier botón que desees, ¡siéntete libre de experimentar! +Whilst certainly optional, you may find that a button is what is missing from the hat to finish the look. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what missing. If it is, attach it permanently. +Whilst a covered button is recommeneded you can use whatever button you desire, feel free to experiment! -### Paso 8: ¡Disfruta de tu nuevo sombrero! +### Step 8: Enjoy your new hat! -¡Eso es todo! Todo listo. Ahora disfruta del mundo en tu maravilloso nuevo sombrero y quizás resuelva un crimen o dos. +That's it! You're all done. Now enjoy the world in your wonderful new hat whilst maybe solving a crime or two! -Recuerde que estas instrucciones son sólo directrices así que no te preocupes si quieres construir el sombrero de manera diferente. -Los diagramas todavía están por hacer para este patrón, así que mientras tanto si necesita ayuda visual, ver el video de YouTube que inspiró este patrón: +Remember these instructions are just guidelines so don't worry if you want to construct the hat differently. +The Diagrams are yet to be made for this pattern so in the mean time if you need a visual aid, watch the YouTube video that inspired this pattern: From 5aba77d98294eecd78d9363c040410b06afb1d8f Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Joost De Cock Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2021 11:38:14 +0100 Subject: [PATCH 7/8] New translations en.md (German) --- .../docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/de.md | 226 ++++++++++-------- 1 file changed, 126 insertions(+), 100 deletions(-) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/de.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/de.md index 4e1d51a75e5..30b6c1d1ba6 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/de.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/de.md @@ -2,215 +2,241 @@ title: Holmes-Bau --- -### Glossary -- ***Edgestitch*** : Nähen 1/8" (3mm) entfernt oder näher an der Naht +### Step 1: Prepping the Pieces -- ***Topstitch*** : Auf Außenstich 1/4" (6mm) weg von der Naht. +- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces. +- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for a more precise sew which is key for hat construction. -- ***Slipstitch*** : Ein versteckter Stich um gefaltete Kanten zum Körper oder einem anderen gefalteten Rand zu verbinden. - -- ***Whipstitch*** : Ein enger Übergossener Stitch. Auch als Fellstich bekannt. - -- ***Unterstich*** : Drücken Sie Naht und Naht weg vom Hauptstoff. Näht nah an der Naht auf Futter Fang des Nahtzuges unten. - -- ***Baste*** : Langfristige Nähte, um Stücke miteinander zu verbinden. Kann handgenäht oder bearbeitet werden. - -- ***Pad Stitch*** : A parallel running stitch to secure two layers together. - -- ***Tack*** : Eine laufende Sitzung an einem Ort, um die Teile zusammen zu sichern. - -Glossarbedingungen werden in ***fett und kursiv*** unten formatiert. - -### Schritt 1: Vorbereitung der Teile - -__1.__ Bei Bedarf Schnittstellen Sie die Krone und die Hälfte der Ohrklappen. -__2.__ Wenn noch nicht erledigt Es wird empfohlen, die Nahtlinien auf Ihren Stoffstücken entweder durch eine vorübergehende Markierung oder durch Fadenmarkierung zu markieren. Dies ist für eine präzisere Nähte, die für den Hutbau entscheidend ist. -Die Markierung des Threads erlaubt es, die Nahtlinie sowohl auf der rechten als auch auf der falschen Seite zu sehen. +Thread marking allows for the seam line to be seen on both the right and wrong sides. + -Selbst wenn man sich der Krone gegenübersieht, möchte man den Ohrklappen vielleicht nicht zuschauen, wenn man möchte, dass sie beim Anschließen weniger starr sind. +Even if you face the crown you may not want to face the ear flaps if you want them to be less rigid when tieing down. + -Diese Anweisungen gehen davon aus, dass Sie Ihre Nahtlinien markiert haben. Sie können schwerer zu folgen, wenn Sie diesen Schritt überspringen. +These instructions assume you have marked your seam lines. They may be harder to follower if you skip this step. -### Schritt 2: Die Krone +### Step 2: The Crown -__1.__ Mit rechten Seiten zusammen, die Nahtlinien und Spitzen abgleichen, zwei Kronenstücke zusammennähen. -__2.__ Drücken Sie Nähte offen. Sie mussten dafür einen Schneider-Schinken verwenden, wenn Sie keinen Schinken haben, können Sie stattdessen Flannels oder Handtücher verwenden. -__3.__ (Optional) ***Edgestitch*** Auf beiden Seiten der Naht wird sichergestellt, dass die Nahtzustände eingefangen werden. -__4.__ Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have two halves. Wenn die Hälfte der Anzahl der Kronenstücke eine ungerade Zahl ist, müssen Sie zu jeder Hälfte ein einzelnes Stück nähen. z.B. Wenn Sie 6 Kronen haben, machen Sie zwei Hälften von 3 Nähen ein Stück zu zwei zusammengenähten Stücken. -__5.__ Mit rechten Seiten zusammen, Matchinig Nahtlinien und Gipfeln, nähen Sie die beiden Hälften zusammen. Sie können den Gipfel vielleicht leichter zusammen handnähen durch Schüttgut oder Präzision. Diese Naht wird als "Mittelkronennaht" bezeichnet. __6.__ (Optional) ***Edgestitch*** Auf beiden Seiten der Mitte Kronennaht wird sichergestellt, dass die Nahtzuschläge eingefangen werden. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together. +- Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not have one you can use flannels or towels instead. +- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances. +- Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn together pieces. +- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk or for precision. This seam will be refered to as the "centre crown seam" going forward. +- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances. -Je nach Zulage der Naht können Sie Nähte schneiden wollen, während Sie gehen, um die Menge zu reduzieren. +Depending on your seam allowance you may want to trim seams as you go to reduce bulk. -### Schritt 3: Die Ohrenklappen +### Step 3: The Ear Flaps #### Ohrklappen mit Binden -__1.__ Zwei 12" (30cm) schneiden - 16" (40cm) Länge des Bänders. Diese werden als weitere Bindungen bezeichnet werden. -__2.__ ***Baste*** eine Krawatte an der rechten Seite einer Ohrklappe (die Schnittstelle, wenn verwendet). Wiederholen für andere Krawatte. -__3.__ Mit rechter Seite zusammen passende Nahtlinien, nähen Sie eine Ohrklappe in eine nicht bindende Ohrklappe. -__4.__ Clip und Schnitt Nahtzustand. -__5.__ Nach außen drehen und drücken. -__6.__ (Optional) ***Topstitch*** oder ***Edgestitch*** die gefaltete Kante. -__7.__ ***Baste*** die rohen Kanten zusammen. -__8.__ Repeat steps 3 to 7 for the remaining ear flap. +- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be refered to as ties going forward. +- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap. +- Clip and trim seam allowance. +- Turn inside out and press. +- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge. +- _Baste_ the raw edges together. +- Repeat steps 3 to 7 for the remaining ear flap. + -If you are uncertain about the length you want for you ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut in half. Verwenden Sie diese Hälften als die Verbindungen in den obigen Anweisungen. Die Bindungen sind am Ende fertig, so dass Sie die Längen dann anpassen können. +If you are uncertain about the length you want for your ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut it in half. Use these halves as the ties in the instructions above. The ties are finished at the end so you can adjust the lengths then. + -Die oben genannten Längen sind Empfehlungen, so fühlen Sie sich frei zu gehen so lange oder so kurz wie Sie wollen mit den Krawatten. -If you prefer you can make your ties with your main fabric, you can find how to [here](https://freesewing.org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/). +The lengths above are recommendations so feel free to go as long or as short as you like with the ties. +If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, you can find how to do so in [the Holmes cutting instrations](https://freesewing.org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/). #### Ohrklappen mit Tastenlöchern -__1.__ Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (Dies wird nicht benötigt, wenn bereits zwei Klappen interfaced wurden.) -(This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced) __2.__ With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not). -__3.__ Clip und Schnitt Nahtzustand. -__4.__ Nach außen drehen und drücken. -__5.__ (Optional) ***Topstitch*** oder ***Edgestitch*** die gefaltete Kante. -__6.__ ***Baste*** die rohen Kanten zusammen. -__7.__ Nähen Sie das Knopfloch in Ihrer bevorzugten Methode. -__8.__ Repeat steps 2 to 7 for the remaining ear flap. +- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced) +- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not). +- Clip and trim seam allowance. +- Turn inside out and press. +- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge. +- _Baste_ the raw edges together. +- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method. +- Repeat steps 2 to 7 for the remaining ear flap. + -Die Ohrklappen müssen lang genug sein, um über die Spitze zu gehen, so dass sie über einen Knopf auf dem Gipfel erledigt werden können. Benutzen Sie diese Methode nicht, wenn Sie keine Taste oben verwenden. +The ear flaps will need to be long enough to go over the top of the peak so they can be done up by a button on the peak. Do not use this method if you are not using a button on the top. + -**Für beide Ohrklappen mit Bindestrichen und Tastenlöchern** -wird empfohlen, mindestens ***Topstitch*** die Ohrklappen zu verwenden, aber dies kann bei bestimmten Mustern nicht wünschenswert sein und wurde als optional markiert. +**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes** + +It is recommended to at least _topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional. -### Step 4: The Bill +### Step 4: The Visors -There are two methods for constructing the bill. This is due to the different types of materials the bill inserts can be made of. Methode 1 ist für Materialien, die nicht durch eine Nadel oder Eisen beschädigt werden. Methode 2 ist für Materialien, die durch eine Nadel oder Eisen beschädigt werden. Lesen Sie beide Methoden, um festzustellen, welche für Sie am besten ist. +There are two methods for constructing the visors. This is due to the different types of materials the visor inserts can be made of. Method 1 is for materials that will not be damaged by a needle or iron. Method 2 is for materials that will be damaged by a needle or iron. Read both methods to determine which is best for you to use. #### The Bill Method 1 -__1.__ Place bill insert on one bill piece inside seam lines. __2.__ Temporarily secure bill insert to bill with temporary ***Pad Stitches***. This will be refered to as "faced bill" going forward. __3.__ ***Baste*** along the seam line of the inner curve of the bill, making sure not to catch the bill insert. __4.__ With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced bill to another bill piece along the outer curve close to the bill insert, making sure not to catch the bill Insert. __5.__ Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) __6.__ Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the bill insert. __7.__ Using the previous basting line as a guide, ***Baste*** the opening closed. __8.__ Repeat steps 1 to 7 for remaining bill pieces. +- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines. +- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward. +- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert. +- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) +- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert. +- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed. +- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces. -Seien Sie vorsichtig mit der Hitze eines Eisens, wenn Sie bestimmte Beilagen verwenden. You do not want to melt the Bill Insert and damage both it and the fabric. +Be careful with the heat of an iron when using certain insert materials. You do not want to melt the Visor Insert and damage both it and the fabric. + -If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Vergewissern Sie sich, dass es Ihren Hutgewebe nicht beschädigt, wenn Sie ihn entfernen oder anwenden. +If preferred you can temporarily attach the visor insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Just make sure it does not damage your hat fabric when removing or applying. #### The Bill Method 2 -__1.__ With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two bill pieces together. __2.__ Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) __3.__ Turn inside out and press. __4.__ Insert bill insert in to sewn bill tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the bill insert. __5.__ Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the bill insert. __6.__ ***Baste*** as close as you can to the inner curve of the bill insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew. +- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together. +- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) +- Turn inside out and press. +- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor. +- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert. +- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew. +- Repeat steps 1 to 6 for the remaining visor pieces. -### Schritt 5: Assembly and Lining +### Step 5: Assembly and Lining -Wieder einmal gibt es zwei Methoden für Endmontage und Verkleidung. Lesen Sie beide Methoden sorgfältig durch, um festzustellen, welche für Sie am besten ist. +Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both methods carefully to determine which is best for you. #### Montage- und Lining-Methode 1 -__1.__ Matchings Center und Nahtlinien richten die Ohrklappe an die rechte Seite einer der Platten an, die nicht zur Mitte der KronenNaht gehört. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). __2.__ ***Baste*** the ear flap to the crown along seam lines __3.__ Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. __4.__ Align centre front of bill with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the bill insert is on the bottom. __5.__ Hand-***Baste*** the bill to the crown matching the bill basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to ***Baste*** the centre down first and then work from the centre out. It easier to ***Baste*** the centre down first and then work from the centre out. __6.__ Sew the bill to the crown along seam lines. Sie können es leichter finden, den Visor dauerhaft zu nähen, anstatt eine Maschine zu benutzen. -. Wiederholen Sie die Schritte 4 bis 6 für den restlichen Visor auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite der Mitte Kronennaht. -__8.__ Entfernen Sie alle Pad- und Bastnähte. -__9.__ Drücken Sie die Nahtzuschläge nach innen und stellen Sie sicher, dass die Nähte nach außen nicht sichtbar ist. -__10.__ (Optional) Loosely ***Whipstitch*** die Nähte nach innen der Krone stellen sicher, dass die Nähte nach außen nicht angezeigt werden. -__11.__ Konstruieren Sie die gleiche Art und Weise wie die Kronen-Mitmachung ***Edgestitching*** . -__12.__ Falten und drücken Sie unter der unteren Nahtgrenze der Verkleidung. Möglicherweise müssen Sie unter mehr drücken, um zu verhindern, dass das Futter gezeigt wird. You may also find you need to ***Baste*** the seam allowance down. __13.__ Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines. __14.__ ***Slipstitch*** or ***Whipstitch*** the lining to the seam allowance of the hat. __15.__ Remove lining basting if used. __16.__ (Optional) ***Tack*** the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Damit soll verhindert werden, dass der Streifen herausfällt. +- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). +- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines. +- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. +- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom. +- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out. +- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine. +- Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam. +- Remove all pad and basting stitches. +- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside. +- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside. +- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_. +- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down. +- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines. +- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat. +- Remove lining basting if used. +- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. #### Montage- und Verbindungsmethode 2 -__1.__ Matchings Center und Nahtlinien richten die Ohrklappe an die rechte Seite einer der Platten an, die nicht zur Mitte der KronenNaht gehört. Vergewissern Sie sich, dass die verdeckte Seite gegen die Krone platziert ist (falls verdeckt). -. ***Baste*** die Ohrklappe zur Krone entlang der Nahtlinien -__3.__ Wiederholen Sie die Schritte 1 und 2 für die verbleibende Ohrklappe auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite der Krone. -__4.__ Zentrierte Vorderseite des Visors mit der rechten Seite der Mitte der Krone stellt sicher, dass der Visoreinsatz unten ist. -__5.__ Hand -***Baste *** der Visor zur Krone passend zu den Visorbastlinien zu den Kronenlinien. Es ist einfacher, ***Baste*** zuerst die Mitte nach unten und dann von der Mitte heraus zu arbeiten. -____ (Optional) Maschinen-***Baste*** der Visor zur Krone entlang der Nahtlinien. -__7.__ Wiederholen Sie die Schritte 4 bis 6 für den restlichen Visor auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite der Mitte Kronennaht. -__8.__ Konstruieren Sie die gleiche Art und Weise wie die Kronenbezwingung ***Edgestitching*** und lassen Sie eine Lücke in der Mitte Futter Naht groß genug, um den Hut zu drehen. -__9.__ Mit rechten Seiten zusammen, passende Mittelkronennaht, Panelnähte und Nahtlinien. Nähen Sie das Futter zur Krone entlang der Nahtlinien. Wenn Sie sperrig sind, können Sie entweder die Futternähte oder beide Nähte schneiden. __10.__ Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside. -__11.__ (Optional/Alternate to 13.) ***Understitch*** lining. -__12.__ ***Slipstitch*** lining opening closed. -__13.__ (Optional/Alternate to 11.) ***Topstitch*** or ***Edgestitch*** along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew. -__14.__ (Optional) ***Tack*** the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Damit soll verhindert werden, dass das Futter herausfällt. +- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). +- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines +- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. +- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom. +- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out. +- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines. +- Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam. +- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat. +- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Sew the lining to the the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to trim either the lining seams or both seams. +- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside. +- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining. +- Slipstitch lining opening closed. +- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew. +- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. -**For both Assembly and Lining Methods** -You can attach the bills on first, just make sure the bills are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the bills to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions. +**For both Assembly and Lining Methods** + +You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the visors to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions. + **For both Assembly and Lining Methods** -If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the bills, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the bill and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the bill to shape. Achten Sie einfach darauf, diese Nähte und die Clips beim Anbringen des Futters zu verbergen. + +If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the visors, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the visor and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the visor to shape. Just make sure to hide this stitching and the clips when attaching the lining. + **For both Assembly and Lining Methods** -Assembly and Lining instructions are written with a 6 panelled Holmes in mind. You may find the placement of bills and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. Sie können feststellen, dass die Platzierung von Visoren und Ohrklappenteilen für andere nummerierte Holmes unterschiedlich ist. As a rule generally the centre front of the bill is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling. + +Assembly and Lining instructions are written with a 6 panelled Holmes in mind. You may find the placement of visors and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling. -### Schritt 6: Beende Binden +### Step 6: Finishing Ties -Wenn Sie Ihre Verbindungen beim Bau der Ohrklappen nicht abgeschnitten haben, ist es jetzt an der Zeit, dies zu tun. If you made your ties with your main fabric then you do not need to do these steps. Lesen Sie wieder sorgfältig durch beide Methoden und wählen Sie aus, was ist das Beste für Sie. +If you did not cut your ties down when constructing the ear flaps, now is the time to do so. If you made custom ties with fabric then you do not need to do these steps. Again read through both methods carefully and pick which is the best for you. #### Beende Knoten-Methode 1 -__1.__ Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold. __2.__ Unfold. __3.__ If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent. __4.__ Repeat steps 1 to 3 for the remaining tie. +- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold. +- Unfold. +- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent. +- Repeat steps 1 to 3 for the remaining tie. #### Beende Knoten-Methode 2 -***Baste*** the raw edges together. __8.__ Repeat steps 3 to 7 for the remaining ear flap. +- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed. +- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie +- Repeat steps 1 to 2 for the remaining tie. -Um zu bestimmen, wie man die Bindungen falten will, kann es einfacher sein, zuerst die Ohrklappen zu befestigen. Im Allgemeinen möchten Sie, dass die Falte auf der Unterseite der Bindungen steht, aber wie immer ist es die persönliche Präferenz. +To determine which way you want to fold the ties, you may find it easier to tie the ear flaps up first. Generally you want the fold to be on the underside of the ties but as always it is personal preference. -### Schritt 7: Button +### Step 7: Button -Wenn du nicht die Buttonhole Ohrenklappen machst, musst du keinen Knopf einnähen, aber es kann nützlich sein, wenn du alle falsch ausgerichteten Nähte an der Krone verstecken möchtest. +Unless you are doing the Buttonhole Ear Flaps you do not have to sew a button on but it may be useful if you want to hide any misaligned seams at the crown peak. -__1.__ Construct a covered button. __2.__ Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams. __3.__ Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and ***Whipstitch*** the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move. +- Construct a covered button. +- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams. +- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move. -Sicherlich optional, können Sie feststellen, dass ein Knopf fehlt, um das Aussehen zu beenden. Wenn Sie sich also nicht sicher sind, ob Sie sich diesen Punkt anschauen wollen. stellen Sie einen schnellen Knopf zusammen und platzieren Sie ihn vorübergehend, um zu sehen, ob dies was fehlt. If it is attach it permanently. -Während ein überdachter Button empfohlen wird, kannst du jeden gewünschten Button verwenden, kannst du es probieren! +Whilst certainly optional, you may find that a button is what is missing from the hat to finish the look. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what missing. If it is, attach it permanently. +Whilst a covered button is recommeneded you can use whatever button you desire, feel free to experiment! -### Schritt 8: Genieße deinen neuen Hut! +### Step 8: Enjoy your new hat! -Das war's! Sie sind fertig. Genießen Sie jetzt die Welt in Ihrem wunderbaren neuen Hut und lösen Sie vielleicht ein oder zwei Verbrechen! +That's it! You're all done. Now enjoy the world in your wonderful new hat whilst maybe solving a crime or two! -Denken Sie daran, dass diese Anweisungen nur Richtlinien sind, also machen Sie sich keine Sorgen, wenn Sie den Hut anders konstruieren möchten. -Die Diagramme müssen noch für dieses Muster erstellt werden, also in der Zwischenzeit, wenn Sie eine visuelle Hilfe benötigen schaue dir das YouTube-Video an, das dieses Muster inspiriert hat: +Remember these instructions are just guidelines so don't worry if you want to construct the hat differently. +The Diagrams are yet to be made for this pattern so in the mean time if you need a visual aid, watch the YouTube video that inspired this pattern: From 4920cd679ac3b4cd8006549fc481c76c85f35fb6 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Joost De Cock Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2021 11:38:15 +0100 Subject: [PATCH 8/8] New translations en.md (Dutch) --- .../docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/nl.md | 259 +++++++++--------- 1 file changed, 128 insertions(+), 131 deletions(-) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/nl.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/nl.md index 77dd0faf6aa..58f321e302e 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/nl.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/nl.md @@ -2,244 +2,241 @@ title: Holmes Constructie --- -### Glossary -- ***Stik*** : Stitch 1/8" (3mm) weg of dichter bij de naad +### Step 1: Prepping the Pieces -- ***Sierstiksel*** : Stik 1/4" (6 mm) weg van de naad. +- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces. +- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for a more precise sew which is key for hat construction. -- ***Slipstiksel*** : Een verborgen steek om de geplooide rand aan te passen aan de rits of een andere geplooide rand. - -- ***Whipstiksel*** : Een dichtstbijzijnde overschrijdstiksel. Ook bekend als een Fell Stitch. - -- ***Onderstiksel*** : Strijk de voering naadwaarde en de naadwaarde weg van de hoofdstof. Stik dicht bij de voering om de naadwaarde eronder vast te leggen. - -- ***Drieg*** : Lange tijdelijke steken om stukken samen te voegen. Kan worden gehuurd of met de hand. - -- ***Pad Stitch*** : A parallel running stitch to secure two layers together. - -- ***Tack*** : Een lopende zitplaats op één plek om stukken samen te bevestigen. - -Woordenlijsttermen zullen worden geformatteerd in ***vet en cursief*** hieronder. - -### Stap 1: Voorbereiden van de stukjes - -__1.__ Indien nodig, geef de kroon en de helft van de oorklappen door. -__2.__ Als dit nog niet is gedaan het wordt aangeraden om de naadlijnen op je stofdelen te markeren met een tijdelijke markering of markering van de draad. Dit is voor een preciezere naad die essentieel is voor de bouw van hoed. -Draadmarkering maakt het mogelijk om de naadlijn aan zowel de rechterals de verkeerde kant te zien. +Thread marking allows for the seam line to be seen on both the right and wrong sides. + -Zelfs als je de kroon aan het gezicht geeft, wil je de oorklappen misschien niet aankijken als je wilt dat ze minder rigide zijn bij het aan banden leggen. +Even if you face the crown you may not want to face the ear flaps if you want them to be less rigid when tieing down. + -Deze instructies gaan ervan uit dat je naadlijnen hebt gemarkeerd. Ze kunnen moeilijker te volgen zijn als u deze stap overslaat. +These instructions assume you have marked your seam lines. They may be harder to follower if you skip this step. -### Stap 2: De Kroon +### Step 2: The Crown -__1.__ Met de goede kanten op elkaar, met naden en pieken, stik twee kroonstukken. -__2.__ Strijk de naden open. Je moest hiervoor een kleerham gebruiken, als je er geen hebt, kun je flannels of handdoeken gebruiken. -__3.__ (optioneel) ***Benodigdheden*** beide kanten van de naad, let op dat je de naadwaarde vastmaakt. -__4.__ Herhaal stap 1 en 2 totdat je twee helften hebt. Als de helft van het aantal kroon een raar getal is, moet je aan elke helft één stuk naaien. bv. Als je 6 kroon stukjes hebt, maak je twee helften van 3 stikken aan elkaar vast. -__5.__ Met goede kanten samen, matchinig naadlijnen en pieken, stik de twee helften samen. Het is mogelijk dat het makkelijker is om de piek samen te doorstikken door bulk of precisie. Deze naad wordt verwezen naar de "middelste kroonnaad" die verder gaat. __6.__ (Optioneel) ***Edgestitch*** beide zijden van de middennaad, let op dat je de naadwaarde vangt. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together. +- Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not have one you can use flannels or towels instead. +- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances. +- Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn together pieces. +- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk or for precision. This seam will be refered to as the "centre crown seam" going forward. +- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances. -Afhankelijk van je naadwaarde wil je misschien naden bijknippen terwijl je bulk gaat verminderen. +Depending on your seam allowance you may want to trim seams as you go to reduce bulk. -### Stap 3: De ar-Flaps +### Step 3: The Ear Flaps #### Ear Flaps met Grenzen -__1.__ Knip 2 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) lengte van lint. Daar zal naar worden verwezen naarmate de banden vorderen. -__2.__ ***Drieg*** een das aan de rechterkant van een oorflap (de tussenliggende bij het gebruiken). Herhaal voor andere stropdassen. -__3.__ Met de goede kanten samen, overeenkomende naadlijnen, stik een oordklep aan een niet-stropdas klap. -__4.__ Clip en bijknip naadwaarde in. -__5.__ Draai naar buiten en druk op. -__6.__ (optioneel) ***Sierstiksel*** of ***Herstiksel*** de geplooide rand. -__7.__ ***Drieg*** de rauwe randen samen. -__8.__ Herhaal stappen 3 tot 7 voor de resterende oorvlok. +- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be refered to as ties going forward. +- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap. +- Clip and trim seam allowance. +- Turn inside out and press. +- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge. +- _Baste_ the raw edges together. +- Repeat steps 3 to 7 for the remaining ear flap. + -Als je onzeker bent over de lengte van je stropdassen duurt 1 meter (39") en knip ze in de helft. Gebruik deze helft als de stropdassen in de bovenstaande instructies. De stropdassen zijn aan het einde af, zodat je de lengte dan kunt aanpassen. +If you are uncertain about the length you want for your ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut it in half. Use these halves as the ties in the instructions above. The ties are finished at the end so you can adjust the lengths then. + -De lengtes hierboven zijn aanbevelingen, dus voel je vrij om zo lang of zo kort te gaan als je wilt met de banden. -Als je liever je eigen das met stof kan maken, vind je het [here](https://freesewing.org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/). +The lengths above are recommendations so feel free to go as long or as short as you like with the ties. +If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, you can find how to do so in [the Holmes cutting instrations](https://freesewing.org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/). #### Ear Flaps met knoopsgaten -__1.__ Zie de rug van twee knoopsgaten. (Dit is niet nodig als er al twee flaps met elkaar vervlochten zijn) -__2.__ Met de goede kanten op elkaar, overeenkomende naadlijnen, stik twee oorklapjes op elkaar (één tussengedrukt, één niet). -__3.__ Clip en naadwaarde bijknippen. -__4.__ Draai naar buiten en druk op. -__5.__ (optioneel) ***Sierstiksel*** of ***Herstiksel*** de geplooide rand. -__6.__ ***Drieg*** de rauwe randen samen. -__7.__ Stik het knoopsgat in de gewenste methode. -__8.__ Herhaal stappen 2 tot 7 voor de resterende oorvlok. +- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced) +- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not). +- Clip and trim seam allowance. +- Turn inside out and press. +- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge. +- _Baste_ the raw edges together. +- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method. +- Repeat steps 2 to 7 for the remaining ear flap. + -De oorklappen moeten lang genoeg zijn om de bovenkant van het piek te overschrijden, zodat ze kunnen worden gedaan met een knop op het piek. Gebruik deze methode niet als je geen knop bovenaan gebruikt. +The ear flaps will need to be long enough to go over the top of the peak so they can be done up by a button on the peak. Do not use this method if you are not using a button on the top. + -**Voor ar-Flaps met taarten en knoopsgaten** -Het wordt aangeraden om ten minste ***Topstitch*** de oorflaps te gebruiken, maar dit kan niet wenselijk zijn met bepaalde patronen, dus is dit gemarkeerd als optioneel gemarkeerd. +**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes** + +It is recommended to at least _topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional. -### Stap 4: De Visors +### Step 4: The Visors -Er zijn twee methoden voor de bouw van de bezoekers. Dit is te wijten aan de verschillende materialen waarvan de bezoeker kan worden gemaakt. Methode 1 is voor materialen die niet beschadigd worden door een naald of ijzer. Methode 2 is voor materialen die beschadigd worden door een naald of ijzer. Lees beide methodes om te bepalen welke het beste voor jou is. +There are two methods for constructing the visors. This is due to the different types of materials the visor inserts can be made of. Method 1 is for materials that will not be damaged by a needle or iron. Method 2 is for materials that will be damaged by a needle or iron. Read both methods to determine which is best for you to use. #### De Visors Methode 1 -__1.__ Plaats de bezoeker op één bezoeker stuk binnen de naadlijnen. -__2.__ Tijdelijk veilig bezoek invoegen aan een bezoeker met tijdelijke ***Pad Stitches***. Hiernaar wordt verwezen als "gegaste bezoek" in de toekomst. -__3.__ ***Baste*** langs de naadlijn van de binnenste curve van de visor, zorg ervoor dat je de bezoeker niet vangt. -__4.__ met goede kanten op elkaar, overeenkomende naadlijnen en middenvoorpand, Stik de getoonde bezoeker aan een ander bezoekerdeel langs de buitenste curve dicht bij de bezoeker ingevoegd, let op dat je de bezoeker niet vangt. -__5.__ Notch en knip de buitenste curve bij en knip deze niet door om het stiksel vast te snijden. (Je wilt misschien de vorm veranderen en controleren voor deze stap) -__6.__ Draai binnenstebuiten en druk op. Zorg ervoor dat de naadrechten bovenop de bezoekerstoelagen komen te staan. -__7.__ Gebruik de vorige driegen regel als een gids, ***Baste*** de gesloten opening. -__8.__ Herhaal stap 1 tot 7 voor resterende bezoekstukken. +- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines. +- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward. +- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert. +- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) +- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert. +- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed. +- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces. -Wees voorzichtig met de warmte van een ijzer wanneer je bepaalde invoegmaterialen gebruikt. Je wilt de Bezoeker niet smelten en zowel de stof schade toebrengen. +Be careful with the heat of an iron when using certain insert materials. You do not want to melt the Visor Insert and damage both it and the fabric. + -Als je liever zou zien dat je tijdelijk de bezoeker bevestigt, dan moet je anders naaien en een naald door het materiaal doen hangen. Zorg ervoor dat het bij het verwijderen of toepassen geen schade toebrengt aan de stof van je hoed. +If preferred you can temporarily attach the visor insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Just make sure it does not damage your hat fabric when removing or applying. #### De Visors Methode 2 -__1.__ Met de zijkanten van de rechthoekige naad en de middenvoorpanden naaien, stik de buitenste curver van twee visastukken samen. -__2.__ Notch en bijsnijden (indien nodig) de buitencurve zodat je de steek niet vastmaakt. (U wilt misschien de vorm veranderen en controleren voor deze stap) -__3.__ Draai naar buiten en druk op -__4.__ Plaats de bezoeker strak in aan de naad zodat er geen opening is op de buitencurver en de naadtoeslagen zijn allemaal aan de zijkant van de bezoeker. Dit wordt de bovenste zijde van het bezoek. -__5.__ Speld de binnenste curve samen en zorg ervoor dat de buitenrand strak boven de bezoeker wordt gestreken. -__6.__ ***Drieg*** zo dicht mogelijk bij de binnenste curve van de bezoeker, zorg ervoor dat je de stof stik over de buitenrand trekt terwijl je stikt. -__7.__ Herhaal stap 1 tot 6 voor de resterende bezoekstukken. +- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together. +- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) +- Turn inside out and press. +- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor. +- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert. +- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew. +- Repeat steps 1 to 6 for the remaining visor pieces. -### Stap 5: Buurderij en Eten +### Step 5: Assembly and Lining -Eens te meer zijn er twee methodes voor de definitieve vergadering en de aansluiting. Lees beide methodes zorgvuldig om te bepalen wat het beste voor u is. +Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both methods carefully to determine which is best for you. #### Montage- en inspraakmethode 1 -__1.__ Wedstrijdcentra en naadlijnen leggen de oorklappen samen met de rechterkant van een van de stukken die geen deel uitmaken van de middenkroon. Zorg ervoor dat de getoonde kant tegen de kroon wordt geplaatst (indien aangewezen). -__2.__ Stik oorklappen aan de kroon langs de naadlijnen. -__3.__ Herhaal stappen 1 en 2 voor de resterende oorflap aan de andere kant van de kroon. -__4.__ uitlijningscentrum voor bezoeker met de rechterkant van de middenrand om te controleren of de bezoeker onderaan staat. -__5.__ Hand-***Baste*** de bezoeker aan de kroon die de driflijnen met de kroonnaadlijnen met elkaar overeenkomt. Het is makkelijker om ***Baste*** het centrum eerst naar beneden en vervolgens vanuit het centrum naar buiten te werken. -__6.__ Stik de bezoeker langs de naadlijnen aan de kroon. Het is mogelijk makkelijker om de bezoeker permanent aan te naaien in plaats van een machine te gebruiken. -. Herhaal stap 4 tot 6 voor de resterende bezoeker aan de overkant van de middenkroon. -__8.__ Verwijder alle pad en driegstikjes. -__9.__ Strijk de naadwaarde naar binnen, waardoor het stiksel niet zichtbaar is aan de buitenzijde. -__10.__ (optioneel) Blijk ***Zweefsteek*** naden naar de binnenkant van de kroon, waardoor het stiksel niet aan de buitenkant wordt weergegeven. -__11.__ Bouw de voering op dezelfde manier als de kroon in ommitatie ***Edgestitching***. -__12.__ Plooi en strijk onder de naadwaarde van de voering. Je vindt dat je onder meer moet indrukken om te voorkomen dat de voering wordt weergegeven. Je kan vinden dat je ***Baste*** de naadwaarde naar beneden moet gebruiken. -__13.__ Combineer de middelste kroonnaden en paneelnamen, speld de voering in de verkeerde hoed samen. Plaats de geplooide rand langs de stiksellijnen. -*4. ***Slipstiksel*** of ***Wissel*** de voering naar de naadwaarde van de hoed. -__15.__ Verwijder plakken in de voering indien gebruikt. -__16.__ (optioneel) *** Tack*** de piek van de voering naar de piek van de kroon. Dit om te voorkomen dat de voering uitvalt.

+- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). +- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines. +- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. +- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom. +- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out. +- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine. +- Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam. +- Remove all pad and basting stitches. +- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside. +- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside. +- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_. +- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down. +- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines. +- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat. +- Remove lining basting if used. +- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. #### Montage- en inspraakmethode 2 -__1.__ Wedstrijdcentra en naadlijnen leggen de oorklappen samen met de rechterkant van een van de stukken die geen deel uitmaken van de middenkroon. Zorg ervoor dat de getoonde kant tegen de kroon is geplaatst (indien aangewezen). -. ***Drieg*** de oorveeg naar de kroon langs de naadlijnen -__3.__ Herhaal stappen 1 en 2 voor het resterende oor aan de andere kant van de kroon. -__4.__ uitlijnen centrum van de voorkant van het bezoek, met de rechterkant van de middenrand om er zeker van te zijn dat de bezoeker onderaan staat. -__5.__ Hand-***Baste*** de bezoeker aan de kroon die de drieglijnen met de kroonnaadlijnen overeenkomt. Het is makkelijker om ***Baste*** het centrum eerst naar beneden en vervolgens vanuit het centrum naar buiten te werken. -__6.__ (Optioneel) Machine-***Baste*** aan de kroon langs de naadlijnen. -__7.__ Herhaal stap 4 tot 6 voor de resterende bezoeker aan de andere kant van de middenkroon. -__8.__ Bouw de voering op dezelfde manier als de kroonjuweel ***Edgestitching*** en laat een opening in de middelste voering groot genoeg om de hoed te draaien. -__9.__ Met rechterkanten op elkaar, overeenkomende middenkroonnaden, paneel naden en naadlijnen. Stik de voering aan de kroon langs de naadlijnen. Als je grootmoedig bent kun je de voering naden of beide naden bijknippen. __10.__ Draai hoed binnenstebuiten, strijk om in te gaan. -__11.__ (Optioneel/Alternatief voor 13.) ***Understitch*** lining. -__12.__ ***Slipstitch*** lining opening closed. -__13.__ (Optional/Alternate to 11.) ***Topstitch*** or ***Edgestitch*** along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew. -__14.__ (Optional) ***Tack*** the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. +- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). +- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines +- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. +- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom. +- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out. +- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines. +- Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam. +- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat. +- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Sew the lining to the the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to trim either the lining seams or both seams. +- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside. +- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining. +- Slipstitch lining opening closed. +- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew. +- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out. -**Voor zowel de Buurderij als de Lining Methoden** -Je kan de bezoekers eerst bevestigen zorg ervoor dat de bezoekers onder de oorvlakken staan als er overlappingen zijn. Het is gewoon of je de bezoeker liever onderduikt, of dat de oor flaps onderduikt, zoals in de instructies. +**For both Assembly and Lining Methods** + +You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the visors to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions. + -**Voor zowel de Buurderij als de Lining methoden** -Heb je problemen met de curves van de bezoekers, stik een stiksel 1/8" (3mm) van de drieglijn in de naadwaarde van de bezoeker en knip er aan vast. Dit zou het makkelijker moeten maken om de bezoeker vorm te geven. Zorg ervoor dat je deze stiksel en de clips verbergt wanneer je de voering bevestigt. +**For both Assembly and Lining Methods** + +If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the visors, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the visor and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the visor to shape. Just make sure to hide this stitching and the clips when attaching the lining. + -**Voor zowel de Buurderij als de montagemogelijkheden** -De instructies van de Buurderij en de Ling worden geschreven met een 6 Panelled Holmes in het achterhoofd. Je kunt de plaatsing van bezoekers en stukjes oor verschillend vinden voor andere gegenummerde broekzakken. Meestal staat het midden van de voorkant van de bezoeker altijd op de middenkroon, bij worstelingen. +**For both Assembly and Lining Methods** + +Assembly and Lining instructions are written with a 6 panelled Holmes in mind. You may find the placement of visors and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling. -### Stap 6: Afgerond Ties +### Step 6: Finishing Ties -Als je je stropdassen niet hebt geknipt bij het bouwen van de oorvlakken, is het nu tijd om dat te doen. Als je aangepaste stropdassen met stof maakt, hoef je deze stappen niet te doen. Lees beide methodes nog eens zorgvuldig door en kies wat voor jou het beste is. +If you did not cut your ties down when constructing the ear flaps, now is the time to do so. If you made custom ties with fabric then you do not need to do these steps. Again read through both methods carefully and pick which is the best for you. #### Voltooi Ties Methode 1 -__1.__ Plooi de uiteinden van een das in de helft en knip een driehoek van de hoek naar de plooi. -__2.__ Ongevouwen. -__3.__ Als je bezorgd bent over het uitrafelen van de stromen, kan je fray check of equivalent gebruiken. -__4.__ Herhaal stappen 1 tot 3 voor de resterende das. +- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold. +- Unfold. +- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent. +- Repeat steps 1 to 3 for the remaining tie. #### Voltooien van Ties Methode 2 -__1.__ Plooi onder 1/8 " (3mm) en nog eens 1/8" (3mm) op één van de assen. Vastzetten indien nodig. -__2.__ ***Zweefsteek*** de geplooide rand tot -__3.__ herhaal stappen 1 tot 2 voor de resterende das. +- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed. +- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie +- Repeat steps 1 to 2 for the remaining tie. -Om te bepalen op welke manier je de dassen wilt vouwen, is het mogelijk dat het makkelijker is om de oorvezels eerst vast te naaien. Over het algemeen wil je dat de vouw aan de onderkant van de das ligt, maar zoals altijd is het persoonlijke voorkeur. +To determine which way you want to fold the ties, you may find it easier to tie the ear flaps up first. Generally you want the fold to be on the underside of the ties but as always it is personal preference. -### Stap 7: Knop +### Step 7: Button -Tenzij je de knoopsgatenvlakken doet hoef je geen knop aan te naaien, maar het kan handig zijn als je de naad van de kroon wilt verbergen. +Unless you are doing the Buttonhole Ear Flaps you do not have to sew a button on but it may be useful if you want to hide any misaligned seams at the crown peak. -__1.__ Maak een bedekte knop. -__2.__ Bevestig de knop via de schaduw op de piek van de kroon die je best doet om hem midden in de naden te houden. -__3.__ Alternatief als je de knop niet gebruikt met de oorklapjes kun je de schuimsteek naar beneden en ***Whipstitch*** de rand van de knop naar de kroon, zodat hij niet beweegt. +- Construct a covered button. +- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams. +- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move. -Hoewel het zeker facultatief is, vind je misschien dat er een knop ontbreekt bij de hoed om het uiterlijk af te maken. Dus als u niet zeker bent van het standpunt op dit punt. maak een snelle knop en plaats deze tijdelijk op om te zien of dit ontbreekt. Neem dit permanent toe als het is. -Terwijl een gedekte knop wordt aanbevolen, kunt u elke knop gebruiken die u wilt, voel je vrij om te experimenteren! +Whilst certainly optional, you may find that a button is what is missing from the hat to finish the look. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what missing. If it is, attach it permanently. +Whilst a covered button is recommeneded you can use whatever button you desire, feel free to experiment! -### Stap 8: Geniet van je nieuwe hoed! +### Step 8: Enjoy your new hat! -Dat is het! Je bent allemaal klaar. Geniet nu van de wereld in je geweldige nieuwe hoed terwijl je misschien een of twee misdaad opslaat! +That's it! You're all done. Now enjoy the world in your wonderful new hat whilst maybe solving a crime or two! -Vergeet niet dat deze instructies slechts richtlijnen zijn, dus maak je geen zorgen als je de hoed anders wilt bouwen. -De diagrammen moeten nog gemaakt worden voor dit patroon, dus in de tussentijd als je hulp nodig hebt. bekijk de YouTube video die dit patroon inspireerde: +Remember these instructions are just guidelines so don't worry if you want to construct the hat differently. +The Diagrams are yet to be made for this pattern so in the mean time if you need a visual aid, watch the YouTube video that inspired this pattern: