New translations en.md (French)
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***
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- - -
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title: Cornelius Construction
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***
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- - -
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### Step 1: The Front Pockets
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- Press under the seam allowances of the non-notched edges of the pokcet facings.
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- Matching notches, pin the wrong sides of pocket facings to right side of pocket bags, *Edgestitch* the folded edges to the pocket bags.
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- *Baste* the seam allowances of the notched edges of the pocket facings to the pocket bags.
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- Matching notches, pin the wrong sides of pocket facings to right side of pocket bags, _Edgestitch_ the folded edges to the pocket bags.
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- _Baste_ the seam allowances of the notched edges of the pocket facings to the pocket bags.
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- With right sides together matching double notches sew the pocket bags to the front and then press to the wrong side.
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- Fold the pockets in half along the fold line, right sides together. Stitch the bottom of the pocket bag together.
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- Alternatively you can *French Seam* the bottom seams of the pocket bags together if you prefer.
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- *Baste* the top and side of the pocket bags to the front seam allowances mathcing notches.
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- Alternatively you can _French Seam_ the bottom seams of the pocket bags together if you prefer.
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- _Baste_ the top and side of the pocket bags to the front seam allowances mathcing notches.
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<Note>
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@ -22,7 +20,7 @@ Going forward the pockets and fronts will just be referred to as the fronts.
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### Step 2: The Fly
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- With right sides together, from the top *Baste* along the fly line stopping at the notch on the crotch seam.
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- With right sides together, from the top _Baste_ along the fly line stopping at the notch on the crotch seam.
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- From where you left off with basting, stitch the crotch seam together making sure to secure your stitches where the basting ends.
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- Press open the fly and seam.
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- Lay the fronts down wrong side up so the right sides of the fly flaps are facing you.
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@ -33,13 +31,13 @@ Going forward the pockets and fronts will just be referred to as the fronts.
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- Sew the left zipper tape to left flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
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- Fold the zipper guard in half wrong sides together.
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- Lay the zipper guard on the right flap, right sides touching.
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- Sew the zipper guard to the right flap, *Finish* the right side to your liking.
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- *Finish* the left side of the left flap to your liking.
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- Sew the zipper guard to the right flap, _Finish_ the right side to your liking.
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- _Finish_ the left side of the left flap to your liking.
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- Unpick the basted part of the front seam.
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- *Topstitch* the right flap down, away from the now unpicked seam, as far down as you can.
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- Pin/*Baste* the zipper protector over to the right side to keep it out of the way for the next step
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- _Topstitch_ the right flap down, away from the now unpicked seam, as far down as you can.
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- Pin/_Baste_ the zipper protector over to the right side to keep it out of the way for the next step
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- On the outside side, sew the left flap down to the left, following the curved line.
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- On the outside side, *Bar-Tack* where you like them for reinforcement.
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- On the outside side, _Bar-Tack_ where you like them for reinforcement.
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<Tip>
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@ -49,7 +47,7 @@ When sewing the left flap down on the outside, you may find it best to make a te
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<Note>
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If you wish to orientate the fly the other way change the left to right and right to left in the steps above.\
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If you wish to orientate the fly the other way change the left to right and right to left in the steps above.
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If wanting something more historical than omit the zipper and make a buttonhole fly instead.
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</Note>
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@ -65,14 +63,14 @@ Use the method of the cuff style you chose as they are different depending on wh
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#### Traditional and Elegant
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- *Finish* the raw edges of the slits.
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- _Finish_ the raw edges of the slits.
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- Press the seam allowances of the slits to the wrongs sides. Stitch in place.
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- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
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- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
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- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
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- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
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- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
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- *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
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- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
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- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
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<Note>
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@ -91,7 +89,7 @@ If you are worried about a draft you can create a triangle piece of fabric that
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- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
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- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
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- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
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- *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
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- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
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- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
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<Note>
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**For both Keystone, Traditional and Elegant Styles**
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You can *Edgestitch* the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
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You can _Edgestitch_ the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
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</Note>
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@ -116,12 +114,12 @@ You can *Edgestitch* the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefe
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- Press the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining waistband piece. Trim the bottom seam allowance.
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- With right sides together sew the remaining waistband to the faced waistband along the top and sides.
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- Turn the waistband out. Press.
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- *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
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- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
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- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
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<Note>
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You can *Edgestitch* the waistband together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
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You can _Edgestitch_ the waistband together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
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</Note>
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