Merge pull request #3275 from anna-puk/teagan-inward-curve-at-waist

Teagan inward curve at waist

designs/teagan/src/back.mjs

@@ -25,9 +25,20 @@ function teaganBack({
 
   // Draw seamline
   paths.hemBase = new Path().move(points.cfHem).line(points.hem).hide()
-  paths.saBase = new Path()
+  if (options.curveToWaist) {
+    paths.sideSeam = new Path()
       .move(points.hem)
-    .curve_(points.waistCp2, points.armhole)
+      .curve(points.hipsCp2,points.waistCp1, points.waist)
+      .curve_(points.waistCp2,points.armhole)
+      .hide()
+  } else {
+    paths.sideSeam = new Path()
+      .move(points.hem)
+      .curve_(points.waistCp2,points.armhole)
+      .hide()
+  }
+  paths.saBase = new Path()
+    .move(points.armhole)
     .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholeHollowCp1, points.armholeHollow)
     .curve(points.armholeHollowCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
     .line(points.neck)
@@ -36,6 +47,7 @@ function teaganBack({
   paths.seam = new Path()
     .move(points.cfHem)
     .join(paths.hemBase)
+    .join(paths.sideSeam)
     .join(paths.saBase)
     .line(points.cfHem)
     .close()
@@ -68,6 +80,7 @@ function teaganBack({
       paths.sa = new Path()
         .move(points.cfHem)
         .join(paths.hemBase.offset(sa * 3))
+        .join(paths.sideSeam.offset(sa))
         .join(paths.saBase.offset(sa))
         .line(points.cbNeck)
         .attr('class', 'fabric sa')

designs/teagan/src/front.mjs

@@ -18,12 +18,35 @@ function teaganFront({
   macro,
   log,
   units,
+  getId,
   part,
 }) {
   // Hide Brian paths
   for (let key of Object.keys(paths)) paths[key].hide()
 
   // Adapt fit to waist
+  if (options.curveToWaist) {
+    let midWidth, lowerWidth
+    
+    midWidth = measurements.waist * (1 + options.curvedWaistEase)/4
+    lowerWidth = measurements.hips * (1 + options.hipsEase)/4
+    points.hem.x = lowerWidth
+    points.hips.x = lowerWidth
+    points.waist.x = midWidth
+    
+    // control points should be somewhat evenly spaced around waist
+    let cpAbove, cpBelow
+    cpAbove = points.armhole.dy(points.waist) * 0.6
+    cpBelow = points.hips.dy(points.waist) * 0.25
+    points.waistCp1 = points.waist.shift(90, cpBelow*2/3 - cpAbove/3)
+    points.waistCp2 = points.waist.shift(90, cpAbove*2/3 - cpBelow/3)
+    points.hipsCp2 = points.hips.shift(90,points.waist.dy(points.hips) * 0.3)
+    
+    // warn if we're making a barrel-shaped shirt
+    if (midWidth > lowerWidth) {
+      log.warning('width at waist exceeds width at hips; consider disabling the curve to waist option for a more standard shape')
+    }
+  } else {
     let width
     if (measurements.waist > measurements.hips)
       width = (measurements.waist * (1 + options.hipsEase)) / 4
@@ -32,6 +55,9 @@ function teaganFront({
     points.hips.x = width
     points.waist.x = width
     points.waistCp2 = points.waist.shift(90, points.armhole.dy(points.waist) / 3)
+  }
+  
+  
 
   // Clone cb (center back) into cf (center front)
   for (let key of ['Neck', 'Shoulder', 'Armhole', 'Hips', 'Hem']) {
@@ -63,9 +89,20 @@ function teaganFront({
 
   // Draw seamline
   paths.hemBase = new Path().move(points.cfHem).line(points.hem).hide()
-  paths.saBase = new Path()
+  if (options.curveToWaist) {
+    paths.sideSeam = new Path()
       .move(points.hem)
-    .curve_(points.waistCp2, points.armhole)
+      .curve(points.hipsCp2,points.waistCp1, points.waist)
+      .curve_(points.waistCp2,points.armhole)
+      .hide()
+  } else {
+    paths.sideSeam = new Path()
+      .move(points.hem)
+      .curve_(points.waistCp2,points.armhole)
+      .hide()
+  }
+  paths.saBase = new Path()
+    .move(points.armhole)
     .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholeHollowCp1, points.armholeHollow)
     .curve(points.armholeHollowCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
     .line(points.neck)
@@ -74,6 +111,7 @@ function teaganFront({
   paths.seam = new Path()
     .move(points.cfHem)
     .join(paths.hemBase)
+    .join(paths.sideSeam)
     .join(paths.saBase)
     .line(points.cfHem)
     .close()
@@ -105,6 +143,7 @@ function teaganFront({
       paths.sa = new Path()
         .move(points.cfHem)
         .join(paths.hemBase.offset(sa * 3))
+        .join(paths.sideSeam.offset(sa))
         .join(paths.saBase.offset(sa))
         .line(points.cfNeck)
         .attr('class', 'fabric sa')
@@ -119,6 +158,18 @@ function teaganFront({
       to: points.hem,
       y: points.hem.y + sa * 2.5 + 15,
     })
+    if (options.curveToWaist) {
+      macro('hd', {
+        from: points.waist,
+        to: points.hem,
+        y: points.hem.y + sa * 2.5 + 30
+      })
+      macro('vd', {
+        from: points.hem,
+        to: points.waist,
+        x: points.waist.x - 15,
+      })
+    }
     macro('vd', {
       from: points.hem,
       to: points.armhole,
@@ -150,7 +201,7 @@ function teaganFront({
       y: points.neck.y - sa - 45,
     })
     // These dimensions are only for the front
-    let id = part.getId()
+    let id = getId()
     macro('vd', {
       id,
       from: points.cfHem,
@@ -182,6 +233,8 @@ export const front = {
     backNeckCutout: { pct: 8, min: 4, max: 12, menu: 'fit' },
     // Teagan specific
     draftForHighBust: { bool: false, menu: 'fit' },
+    curveToWaist: { bool: false, menu: 'fit' },
+    curvedWaistEase: { pct: 25, min: 8, max: 40, menu: 'fit' },
     hipsEase: { pct: 18, min: 8, max: 30, menu: 'fit' },
     necklineDepth: { pct: 25, min: 20, max: 40, menu: 'style' },
     necklineWidth: { pct: 30, min: 10, max: 50, menu: 'style' },

markdown/org/docs/patterns/teagan/options/curvetowaist/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,15 @@
+---
+title: "Curve to waist"
+---
+
+Choose this option to draft Teagan to curve towards your waist before curving towards the hips.
+
+If waist measurement (plus ease) is smaller than hips (plus ease), this creates an hourglass shape such as found in 'fitted' or 'ladies' T-shirts (as opposed to 'regular' or 'unisex').
+
+<Note>
+This option can also be used when the waist measurement exceeds the hip measurement, but this results in a non-standard T-shirt shape which may be impossible to put on.
+</Note>
+
+## Effect of this option on the pattern
+
+![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](teagan_curvetowaist_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")