export default part => { let { store, measurements, sa, Point, points, Path, paths, complete, paperless, macro, options, Snippet, snippets, utils } = part.shorthand() /* * Simone is Simon with an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) * Which means that we draft simon with the high bust measurement instead * of the chest circumference (full bust). This is handled auto-magically by plugin-bust * * Once drafted, we add the FBA, which is what happens in this file */ /* * How much room to we need to create to fit the breasts? * Note that measurements.bust is added by the bust plugin * and that we divide by two since we add room on right and left side */ const FBA = (measurements.bust - measurements.highBust) / 2 /* * Locate bust point */ points.bust = new Point( measurements.bustSpan / 2, points.neck.y + measurements.highPointShoulderToBust ) /* * Figure out how much do we need to open a dart to create the required FBA room * Obviously, we don't guess, we use maths :) */ let one = points.armholeHollow.dist(points.bust) // We consider this to be 1 let cosBust = (points.bust.dx(points.armholeHollow) / one) * -1 // Which means this gives us the cos of the bust point let cosRot = ((points.bust.dx(points.armholeHollow) - FBA) / one) * -1 // And this gives us the cos of the target const FBARot = utils.rad2deg(Math.acos(cosBust)) - utils.rad2deg(Math.acos(cosRot)) // Now just acos these and subtract /* * We now now how much room we must create (FBA) and how big our dart will be (FBARot) * But there's one thing that requires our attention: The bust point * When you do an FBA on an existing pattern for womenswear, the bust point is assumed * to be incorrect (since the pattern is drafted for smaller breasts). * In our case, we know for a fact that the bust point is in the correct location because * it's based on the model's measurements. (bust span and high point shoulder (HPS) to bust). * So we need to find the bust point that would end up in the right place AFTER we do the FBA * For this, we'll just rotate it FBARot in the other direction */ points.realBustPoint = points.bust.clone() points.bust = points.bust.rotate(FBARot * -1, points.armholeHollow) /* * Cut to the side seam */ points._dartDirection = points.bust.shift(options.bustDartAngle * -1, measurements.bust / 4) points.bustSideCut1 = utils.lineIntersectsCurve( points.bust, points._dartDirection, points.waist, points.waistCp2, points.armhole, points.armhole ) /* * Mark bust at waist and hem level */ points.bustWaist = new Point(points.bust.x, points.waist.y) points.bustHem = new Point(points.bust.x, points.hem.y) /* * Now rotate entire side around armhole hollow to create room for FBA */ const rot1 = [ 'bust', 'bustSideCut1', 'bustWaist', 'bustHem', 'hem', 'hips', 'hipsCp2', 'waistCp1', 'waist', 'waistCp2', 'armhole', 'armholeCp2', 'armholeHollowCp1' ] for (let p of rot1) points[`${p}_rot1`] = points[p].rotate(FBARot, points.armholeHollow) /* * Help line to show the initial cut lines and first rotation * Uncomment this if you'd like to understand what's going on paths.fbaCut1 = new Path() .move(points.armholeHollow) .line(points.bust) .line(points.bustSideCut1) .move(points.bust) .line(points.bustHem) .attr('class', 'various dashed') paths.rot1 = new Path() .move(points.armholeHollow) .line(points.bust_rot1) .line(points.bustHem_rot1) .line(points.hem_rot1) .line(points.hips_rot1) .curve(points.hipsCp2_rot1, points.waistCp1_rot1, points.waist_rot1) .curve_(points.waistCp2_rot1, points.armhole_rot1) .curve(points.armholeCp2_rot1, points.armholeHollowCp1_rot1, points.armholeHollow) .close() .attr('class', 'lining lashed') */ /* * Split the side seam at the dart, and extrac control points from the Path object */ const toSplit = new Path() .move(points.waist_rot1) .curve_(points.waistCp2_rot1, points.armhole_rot1) .split(points.bustSideCut1_rot1) paths.fbaAboveDart = toSplit.pop() paths.fbaBelowDart = toSplit.pop() paths.fbaAboveDart.render = false paths.fbaBelowDart.render = false points.belowDartCpTop_rot1 = paths.fbaBelowDart.ops[1].cp2 points.belowDartCpBottom_rot1 = paths.fbaBelowDart.ops[1].cp1 points.aboveDartCpBottom_rot1 = paths.fbaAboveDart.ops[1].cp1 // (only one CP on this part /* * Now rotate the bottom part around the (rotated) bust point so it's straight again */ const rot2 = [ 'bust', 'bustSideCut1', 'bustWaist', 'bustHem', 'hem', 'hips', 'hipsCp2', 'waistCp1', 'waist', 'waistCp2', 'armhole', 'armholeCp2', 'armholeHollowCp1', 'belowDartCpTop', 'belowDartCpBottom' ] for (let p of rot2) points[`${p}_rot2`] = points[`${p}_rot1`].rotate(FBARot * -1, points.bust_rot1) /* * Help line to show the second rotation * Uncomment this if you'd like to understand what's going on paths.fbaCut2 = new Path() .move(points.bust_rot2) .line(points.bustHem_rot2) .line(points.hem_rot2) .line(points.hips_rot2) .curve(points.hipsCp2_rot2, points.waistCp1_rot2, points.waist_rot2) .curve(points.belowDartCpBottom_rot2, points.belowDartCpTop_rot2, points.bustSideCut1_rot2) .line(points.bust_rot2) .line(points.bustSideCut1_rot1) .curve_(points.aboveDartCpBottom_rot1, points.armhole_rot1) .curve(points.armholeCp2_rot1, points.armholeHollowCp1_rot1, points.armholeHollow) .line(points.bust_rot2) .attr('class', 'interfacing lashed') */ /* * Bust darts don't actually run entirely up to the bust point but stop a bit short * How short is controlled by the bustDartLength option * First we'll find the middle of the dart, then shift towards the bust point along it * for as far as the bustDartLength option tells us to */ points.bustDartCenter = points.bustSideCut1_rot2.shiftFractionTowards( points.bustSideCut1_rot1, 0.5 ) points.bustDartTip = points.bustDartCenter.shiftFractionTowards( points.bust_rot2, options.bustDartLength ) /* * Draw the front dart. Or if we're not adding a front dart, narrow the side from the waist down */ if (options.frontDarts) { let reduce = points.waist.dx(points.waist_rot2) points.frontDartTip = points.bustWaist_rot2.shiftFractionTowards( points.bust_rot2, options.frontDartLength ) points.frontDartWaistRight = points.bustWaist_rot2.shift(0, reduce / 2) points.frontDartWaistLeft = points.bustWaist_rot2.shift(180, reduce / 2) points.frontDartWaistLeftCpTop = points.frontDartWaistLeft.shift( 90, points.frontDartTip.dy(points.waist_rot2) / 2 ) points.frontDartWaistRightCpTop = points.frontDartWaistRight.shift( 90, points.frontDartTip.dy(points.waist_rot2) / 2 ) points.frontDartHemLeft = new Point(points.frontDartWaistLeft.x, points.hem_rot2.y) points.frontDartHemRight = new Point(points.frontDartWaistRight.x, points.hem_rot2.y) paths.frontDart = new Path() .move(points.frontDartHemRight) .line(points.frontDartWaistRight) .curve_(points.frontDartWaistRightCpTop, points.frontDartTip) ._curve(points.frontDartWaistLeftCpTop, points.frontDartWaistLeft) .line(points.frontDartHemLeft) .attr('class', 'fabric dotted') } else { let waistX = points.waist.x let hipsX = points.hips.x for (let p of ['waist_rot2', 'waistCp1_rot2', 'belowDartCpBottom_rot2']) points[p].x = waistX for (let p of ['hipsCp2_rot2', 'hips_rot2', 'hem_rot2']) points[p].x = hipsX } /* * Now overwrite the points that need to be adapted, and re-create the seam path. * After that, we'll let Simon take it from here */ let clone1 = ['armhole', 'armholeCp2', 'armholeHollowCp1'] for (let p of clone1) points[p] = points[`${p}_rot1`].clone() let clone2 = ['hem', 'hips', 'hipsCp2', 'waistCp1', 'waist'] for (let p of clone2) points[p] = points[`${p}_rot2`].clone() points.cfHem = new Point(points.cfHem.x, points.bustHem_rot2.y) points.waistCp2 = points.belowDartCpBottom_rot2.clone() points.dartBottomCp = points.belowDartCpTop_rot2.clone() points.dartBottom = points.bustSideCut1_rot2.clone() points.dartTop = points.bustSideCut1_rot1.clone() points.dartTopCp = points.aboveDartCpBottom_rot1.clone() /* * Recreate the base paths, and let Simon take it from here */ paths.saBaseFromHips = new Path() .move(points.hips) .curve(points.hipsCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist) .curve(points.belowDartCpBottom_rot2, points.dartBottomCp, points.dartBottom) .line(points.bustDartTip) .line(points.dartTop) .curve_(points.dartTopCp, points.armhole) paths.saBaseFromArmhole = new Path() .move(points.armhole) .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholeHollowCp1, points.armholeHollow) .curve(points.armholeHollowCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch) .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder) .line(points.neck) .curve(points.neckCp2Front, points.cfNeckCp1, points.cfNeck) switch (options.hemStyle) { case 'baseball': points.bballStart = points.cfHem.shiftFractionTowards(points.hem, 0.5) // Don't let front dart fall into curved part of hem if (options.frontDarts && points.bballStart.x > points.frontDartWaistRight.x) { points.bballStart.x = points.frontDartWaistRight.x } points.bballEnd = points.hem.shiftFractionTowards(points.hips, options.hemCurve) points.bballCp1 = points.bballStart.shiftFractionTowards(points.hem, 0.5) points.bballCp2 = new Point(points.bballCp1.x, points.bballEnd.y) paths.saBase = new Path() .move(points.bballEnd) .line(points.hips) .join(paths.saBaseFromHips) paths.hemBase = new Path() .move(points.cfHem) .line(points.bballStart) .curve(points.bballCp1, points.bballCp2, points.bballEnd) break case 'slashed': macro('round', { from: points.hips, to: points.cfHem, via: points.hem, radius: points.hips.dist(points.hem) * options.hemCurve, prefix: 'slash' }) paths.saBase = new Path().move(points.hips).join(paths.saBaseFromHips) paths.hemBase = new Path() .move(points.cfHem) .line(points.slashEnd) .curve(points.slashCp2, points.slashCp1, points.slashStart) break default: paths.saBase = new Path() .move(points.hem) .line(points.hips) .join(paths.saBaseFromHips) paths.hemBase = new Path().move(points.cfHem).line(points.hem) } paths.seam = paths.hemBase .join(paths.saBase) .join(paths.saBaseFromArmhole) .attr('class', 'fabric') return part }