---
title: I'm having trouble with measurements. What should I check?
---

Each of our [measurements](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements) is
documented with a description and two visuals. Referencing these resolves most
issues.

We are working on QA functionality that detects possible issues and brings them
to the user's attention in a way that *makes sense*.

In the meantime, here are some places to start looking if you're having trouble
with your measurements.

## General notes

Trouser problems are almost always caused by vertical measurements that
determine the room we have to construct the pants top. For example, waist to
upper leg *must* be longer than waist to seat; otherwise there is negative room
to construct the pants.

The [waist](#waist) measurement location is an important vertical reference
that should remain consistent during the measurement process.
You should be measuring all waist-related vertical measurements
(waist to seat, waist to hips, HPS to waist, waist to floor, ...)
from that same horizontal plane.

## Trouble measurements

There are a few measurements we've noticed tend to cause problems.

### Waist to armpit

The [waist to armpit](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/waisttoarmpit)
is a straight vertical measure, not curvilinear (following the curve of the
body). It should be at the bottom edge of your armpit, only as high as a shirt
would be comfortable sitting (not digging in).

![Waist to armpit](waisttoarmpit.jpg)

The waist to armpit measurement is used to calculate where the bottom
of the sleeve opening is located.
An incorrect waist to armpit measurement can affect the shape of the
sleevecap and size of the sleeve opening.

### High point shoulder (HPS)

[HPS](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/hps), which is used in several
measurements, is one of the harder spots to get perfect.

Here are two approaches.

One way is to take a pencil, pen, or small dowel to find the point where your
neck meets your shoulder, as well as the highest point as that's where the
pencil or dowel will touch the shoulder. If you use that method, you ideally
want the tool you're using to be parallel with the floor so you can find that
high point.

![High point shoulder with dowel](hps2.jpg)

Another way is with a ribbon. Take a longer ribbon and put it over your
neck/shoulder like a cross body bag. It helps to be able to feel where the neck
ends and the shoulder begins with a small amount of pressure on the ribbon.
You'll need to determine where the shoulder seam should sit, but the ribbon
will tell you where the HPS should sit once you have the shoulder seam
determined as it will be where the two lines cross.

![High point shoulder with riibbon](hps.jpg)

### High bust

[High bust](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/highbust) is a horizontal
measurement that does not need to be perfectly horizontal. It should go around
your torso at the narrowest part of the upper chest, over the bust, under the
arms, and across the back, but does not need to be parallel to the ground all
the way around.

![High bust from the side](highbust.jpg)

![High bust from the front](highbust2.jpg)

### Shoulder slope

Many have had luck using an inclinometer app on a smartphone to measure
[shoulder slope](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/shoulderslope).

### Seat and hips

Sometimes people have [seat](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/seat) and
[hips](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/hips) reversed.

In FreeSewing terms, hips is measured at the upper point of the hip bones. Some
other sources call this the "high hip".

Seat is across the fullest part of your butt. Some other sources call this the
"hip".

For FreeSewing patterns and measurements,
the seat is always located below the hips.

### Waist

The [waist](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/waist) measurement
is important, and unfortunately it is also one of the most difficult
measurements to locate and take correctly.

#### Description

When people hear "waist", they might think of where the waistband on
trousers sits on the body.
However, the "waist" is entirely different when referring to the
sewing measurement.
Instead, it is is the location on the body that is sometimes known as
the "natural waist".

- Typically it is above the hip bone and below the bottom of the ribcage.
For some this is a very small area, and for others there's a much larger
gap between the two.

- It is sometimes described as the point at which your upper body bends
when you bend sideways.

- It is sometimes described as the narrowest part of your torso,
(although this description will be unhelpful for people with larger
stomachs, whose waists might _not_ be the narrowest part).

- Often it is higher up on the torso than people expect,
nearer to the ribcage than to the hips and above the navel.

Again, thinking about trousers waistbands is often misleading and
results in incorrect measurements.
Trousers, slacks, and jeans that are not "high rise" have waistbands
that sit well below the natural waist.
Only high rise jeans sit close to, sometimes at, the natural waist.

#### Measuring Tips

Try bending sideways and noting the point where your body creases. (For bonus
points, put your hand on your waist and sing "I'm a little teapot".)

Or, take a length of 1/4-to-3/4-inch wide elastic and
tie or sew the ends together to form a band around your waist,
snug enough not to slide off, but loose enough to not change the
waist circumference measurement.
Now try bending from side to side (think "I'm a little teapot" movements),
or otherwise moving and walking around to see if the elastic band
naturally slips into place at the natural waist.
Or, if this is uncomfortable or does not work, you can simply place
the elastic band at the location you think most accurately denotes
your natural waist.

Keep wearing this elastic band as you take other measurements, as
a consistent reference for the location of the waistline.
It will make it easier to take other waist-related measurements
like waist to floor, waist to armpit, etc.
