---
title: 'Opal Overalls: Sewing Instructions'
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
sidebar_position: 20
---

## Before you start

### Sewing tips

A _double row of stitching_ means a row of _edgestitching_ no more than 3mm in
from the edge, followed by a row of _topstitching_ about 6-10mm in from the
first row. This should produce stitching that looks like the stitching found on
jeans, or a flat felled seam.

If you wish to do any embroidery, it's easiest to do it now, before starting to
assemble the garment.

### Customizing and fitting your pattern

#### Select an appropriate leg length

- 20-60% for shorts
- 90% for ankle-length legs
- 100% for legs that touch the floor.

#### Decide on what hardware you want to use

These instruction assume you're using traditional overalls hardware (tack
buttons + buckles + sliders), but there are many ways of securing the straps to
the front bib.

#### Decide on what pockets to include

The designs supports up to seven pockets in a classical carpenter style (a bib
pocket, two front slash pockets, two back pockets, and two carpenter pockets on
the right leg), along with a hammer loop. If not including front slash pockets,
the front piece will have to have the triangular gap filled in where the pocket
would go.

#### Figure out what kind of fit you want

And set your eases accordingly.

- Overalls are generally much roomier than pants. As such, they usually have
  quite a bit of ease.
- Keep in mind that the waist must slide over your hips. Either make sure the
  waist has enough ease to slide over the hips, or use a fabric with some
  two-way stretch (like the fabric used in skinny jeans).
- The straps must be long enough to add any extra length needed for the
  hardware. Traditional overalls hardware (tack buttons + buckles + sliders)
  generally need 20-30cm of extra length to accomodate the straps being
  adjustable.

## Step 1: Slash Pockets

- Overcast or serge the slanted edge of the pocket shield to prevent it from
  fraying.
- With the slash pocket laying flat with _good sides up_ place the pocket
  shield onto the slash pocket _wrong side_ to _good side_ in the upper corner,
  matching the slanted edge of the pocket shield to the line indicated on the
  slash pocket part.
- _Edgestitch_ the slanted edge of the pocket shield to the slash pocket.
- Turn the pocket _right-side-out_.
- Secure the seam with a double row of stitching.
- _Baste_ the remaining two sides; these will be secured when the pocket is
  sewn into the legs.
- Repeat for the other slash pocket making sure it is mirrored to one you've
  already made.

## Step 2: Bib Pocket

- Press a double fold hem into the top edge of the bib pocket, and secure with
  a double row of stitching.
- Press a single fold hem into the remaining sides of the bib pocket, and
  secure with clips or pins. Place the bib pocket carefully into place onto the
  front bib, _wrong side to good side_, and pin into place, removing the
  previous clips/pins as you do so.
- Secure with a double row of stitching.

## Step 3: Pockets

### Step 3a: Back Pockets (first part)

- Press a double fold hem into the top edge of the back pocket, and secure with
  a double row of stitching.
- Press a single fold hem into the remaining sides of the back pocket, and
  secure with clips or pins. Place the back pocket carefully into place onto
  the rear piece, _wrong side to good side_, and pin into place, removing the
  previous clips/pins as you do so.

### Step 3b: Carpenter Pockets

- Press a double fold hem into the slanted edge of the carpenter pocket, and
  secure with a double row of stitching.
- Press a single fold hem into the remaining sides of the carpenter pocket, and
  secure with clips or pins.
- Carefully remove pins as needed from the right back pocket to make room for
  the carpenter pocket to be slid under the back pocket. Place the carpenter
  pocket carefully into place _on top of_ the right(opposite of left) rear
  piece and _under_ the back pocket, _wrong side to good side_, and pin into
  place, removing the previous clips/pins as you do so.
- Secure with a double row of stitching on the top, left, and bottom sides of
  the carpenter pocket, being careful to lift the back pocket out of the way as
  you sew to avoid sewing into it.
- Baste the rightmost edges of the carpenter pocket and rear pieces together.

- Press a double fold hem into the slanted edge of the 2nd carpenter pocket,
  and secure with a double row of stitching.
- Press a single fold hem into the remaining sides of the 2nd carpenter pocket,
  and secure with clips or pins.
- Baste the rightmost edges of the 2nd carpenter pocket and rear pieces
  together.

### Step 3c: Hammer Loop

- Fold the hammer loop piece to the desired width and clip/pin.
- Carefully remove pins from the left back pockets to make room for the hammer
  loop to be slid under the back pocket.
- Slide the hammer loop _under_ the left back pocket, and replace the pins,
  securing the hammer loop into place.
- Place the hammer loop along the left edge of the left rear piece, and baste
  into place.

### Step 3d: Back Pockets (second part)

- Secure with a double row of stitching.
- Repeat for the second back pocket.

## Step 4: Assembling the front

- Fold the waistband piece as indicated and clip/pin it.
- With _right sides together_ join the front pieces together along the center
  seam with a flat felled or mock flat felled seam.
- Place the front piece and front bib together with _right sides together_ and
  secure them together with a straight stitch to form the front assembly. Press
  the seam so that it lays towards to top the garment.
- Unfold the front assembly and lay it on the table _wrong side up_.
- Place the waistband over the waist seam, with the smooth side face up, and
  the side with the raw edge placed against the front assembly. Place the
  bottom edge of the waistband 3-5mm below the seam, and make sure that the
  waistband fully covers the seam.
- Trim any excess waistband length.
- Pin into place, removing existing clips/pins from the waistband in the
  process.
- Flip the front assembly _right side up_.
- Topstitch 3 or 4 horizontal rows of straight stitching to secure the
  waistband to the front assembly and reinforce the waist seam, making sure to
  enclose the waist seam fully within the topstitching.

## Step 5: Assembling the back

The center seam runs from the bottom of the 'hexagon' to the crotch fork. Be
careful not to stitch any part of the hexagon in this step.

With _right sides together_ , join the front and back assemblies along the
center seam with a flat felled or mock flat felled seam.

## Step 6: Joining the front and back assemblies

- With _right sides together_, join the front and back assemblies along each
  outseam with a flat felled or mock flat felled seam.
- With _right sides still together_, close the inseam with a flat felled or
  mock flat felled seam.

## Step 7: Forming the hexagon and hemming the bibs

- Lay the back bib flat with _right sides up_, so that the two back bibs
  overlap to form the hexagon. The left back/right strap crosses over the right
  back/left strap.
- Fold the hem allowances of the hexagon inwards into a single-fold topstitched
  hem/seam, and pin into place (clips won't work here).
- Fold the remaining hem allowances of the straps and bibs into a double-fold
  hem, and clip or pin.
- Secure the hexagon and the hems with a double row of stitching. You should be
  able to be do this in two parts, starting and finishing on the sides of the
  hexagon for each one.

## Step 8: Reinforcing the front bib and installing hardware

- Fold the bib placket piece as indicated, and clip or pin.
- Trim any excess length away.
- (optional) Serge or overlock the sides of the bib placket to prevent fraying.
- Clip or pin the bib placket into place. It should be slightly inset from the
  edges of the front bib, and the side with the raw edge should be placed
  against the _wrong side_ of the bib.
- Topstitch 3 or 4 horizontal rows of straight stitching from the _right side_
  of the garment to secure the placket into place.

## Step 9: Hemming the legs

- Fold the hem allowances of the legs into double-fold hems, and clip or pin.
- Secure the hems with a single row of stitching.

## Step 10: Finishing

- Put on a comfortable shirt or one-piece garment for underneath, or just go
  shirtless.
- Put on your finished overalls.
- You're all done. Enjoy.
