---
title: 'Shelly shirt: Sewing Instructions'
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
sidebar_position: 20
---
## Before you start
### Sewing tips
The use of a serger or an overlocking foot is recommended, to keep the size of
the finished seams small. If using a serger, a seam allowance of 1/2 inch (12
mm) is recommended. If using an overlocking foot on a sewing machine, or
serging without the use of the knife, a seam allowance of 1/4 inch (6 mm) is
recommended.
All seams, including the neckband, can be done with the same stitch, whether it
be a serger, an overlock stitch, or a stretch stitch.
Hems are optional (since knit doesn't fray), but if you do make hems, make sure
they can stretch.
Make sure to use a stitch that can stretch. If sewing stretch fabric, adjust
your tension to allow for extra stretch. On a serger, this will usually mean
lowering the needle tension, especially the right needle, and adjusting the
looper tension as needed to keep the stitch looking decent. On a regular sewing
machine, lower the tension. Test your choice of stitch first on scrap fabric,
and try to shape the test seam by stretching the seam along its length. It
should only snap after stretching quite a bit. If it pops too easily, keep
playing with your stitches/tension settings until you get something that can
survive some abuse.
For making t-shirts or other shirts with 2-way stretch, regular settings with a
stitch that stretches should be fine.
### Customizing and fitting your pattern
#### Select an appropriate sleeve length
- 10-30% for short sleeves.
- 75% for 3/4 length sleeves.
- 100% for long sleeves (to the wrist).
- 115% is a good value if making a shirt with thumb holes (extends to the
knuckles)
When in doubt, it's a lot easier to shorten a sleeve than to lengthen it.
#### Select an appropriate body length
- Up to 80% or so will produce a crop top.
- 100% ends at top of the hip bone.
- 120% will produce a typical t-shirt.
- 140% will produce a somewhat longer shirt that is less prone to untucking
or riding up.
- 200%+ can be used to make a simple t-shirt dress. It's suggested that you
set straight sides to false, and adjust the side shape (under advanced
options) for t-shirt dresses.
When in doubt, it's a lot easier to shorten shirt than to lengthen it.
### Decide on fit
Figure out what kind of fit you want and set your eases accordingly. Make
sure you have an appropriate fabric. If in doubt, making the shirt too loose
is safer than too tight.
In general, when working with spandex, you want 0% to negative ease. When
working with ordinary cotton/polyester t-shirt fabric, you want positive
ease, both because the fabric stretches less, and because typical styles
using that fabric are looser.
#### Sensory compression shirts
These will be the tightest / have the most negative ease.
- 4-way stretch fabric is required. Swim fabric or another very stretchy
fabric is strongly recommended.
- Chest ease: -30% to -20%. This is the most important part to compress for
sensory purposes, and is a relatively safe place to put tension.
- Sleeve ease: -20% to -10%. Compression here can be beneficial, but you
don't want it so tight that you cut off circulation.
- Wrist ease: -15% to 0%. Mostly preference.
- Neck ease: 25% to 100% (25% will still be a very snug neckband that will
take some stretching to get on/off the head, because of how the neckband
is constructed and because neckholes usually are quite a bit bigger than
the neck to fit over the head.
#### Athletic shirt
- The author hasn't made one yet. If someone knows what eases to use, please
let me know.
- Highly breathable fabric with some spandex/stretch is recommended.
- Eases are somewhere between those for a compression shirt and a swim shirt.
#### Swim shirt
This is a looser fitting stretch shirt meant for swimming.
- Swim fabric (spandex/nylon blend or spandex/polyester blend, around 20%
spandex)
- Chest ease: ~0%
- Sleeve ease: 0-15%
- Neck ease: 50 to 150% (mostly a style decision). Ease under 50% isn't
recommended unless you like very snug neckbands.
#### T-shirt
- The author hasn't made one yet. If someone knows what eases to use, please
let me know.
- Eases will be quite a bit more larger (more positive) than for other shirt
types.
#### Sweatshirt
- The author hasn't made one yet. If someone knows what eases to use, please
let me know.
- Eases will be similar to that for a t-shirt, or a little larger.
## Step 1: Forming the body and attaching the sleeves
- With _good sides together_, sew the front piece to each sleeve along the
raglan seam (the diagonal seam running from the neck to the armpit).
- With _good sides together_, sew the back piece to each sleeve along the
raglan seam. You should now have a single piece with a circular neck hole in
the middle.
## Step 2: Attaching the neckband
- With _good sides together_, fold the neckband in half long ways (so it's half
as long) and sew it into a loop.
- With _wrong sides together_, fold the neckband in half short ways (so it's
half as wide).
- Turn the shirt _good-side_-out
- Mark the quarter points on your neckband with ball point pins, clips, or
chalk.
- Do the same around the neck hole, marking the center of the front, the center
of the back, and the midpoints on either sleeve.
- With _good sides together_, line up the unfinished edges of the neckband with
the edge of the neck hole, and line up the quarter points of the neckband
with the quarter points of the neck hole. Stretch the neckband as needed to
have all the points line up. Pin or clip the neckband around the neck hole.
- Sew carefully around the neck hole, making sure to sew through all 3 layers.
- Turn the neckband over. It should lay flat.
## Step 3: Closing the sleeves and sides
- Turn the shirt inside-out.
- With _good sides together_, place the front and back pieces together and
pin/clip their sides together.
- With _good sides together_, close the sleeve and pin/clip it along the sleeve
seam.
- You should have a single seam prepared, going from the end of the sleeve to
the bottom hem of the body.
- Sew it shut.
- Repeat for the other side.
## Step 4: (Optional) Hemming
- Hem the sleeves and/or the bottom of the shirt using a single-fold hem. Using
a twin needle will add some stretch to the stitching, but in either case the
use of a stretch stitch is still recommended for high-stretch fabrics.
- Alternatively, you can overlock or serge the raw edge _without_ folding it
over to give it a little bit of substance without adding as much bulk as a
folded hem, or you can make a rolled hem.
- Or you can leave the edges unfinished, particularly if it's swim fabric or
some other fabric that does not fray at all.
## Step 5: Enjoy your new shirt!
- It's time to take your new shirt for a swim, or to show it off at the beach!
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