---
title: "Carlton: FreeSewing's Carlton Coat"
sidebar_label: Carlton Coat
---
<DesignInfo design="carlton" />
## Designer Notes {#notes}
Carlton is the reverse-engineered version of the coat worn by Benedict
Cumberbatch in [the Sherlock
TV-series](<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sherlock_(TV_series)>).
It was painstakingly puzzled together by myself and [my friend Anneke
Caramin](https://www.instagram.com/annekecaramin/) from screengrabs, and
pictures we found on the internet.
From the outset, we wanted to make a version for ladies too, which is what
[Carlita](https://freesewing.org/designs/carlita) is.
If you want to cosplay Sherlock Holmes, you'll be hard-pressed to find a better
design.
And if, like me, you just want a warm coat, it's great for that too.
joost
## What You Need {#needs}
To make Carlton, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 5 - 6 metres (5.5 - 6.6 yards) of a suitable main fabric ([see Carlton Fabric options](#fabric))
- About 3.5 - 4 metres (3.8 - 4.4 yards) of lining fabric ([see Carlton Fabric options](#fabric))
- About 0.75 - 1 metre (0.8 - 1.1 yards) of sleeve lining fabric ([see Carlton Fabric options](#fabric))
- Light to Mediumweight hair canvas ([see Carlton Fabric options](#fabric))
- Heavyweight hair canvas ([see Carlton Fabric options](#fabric))
- Tailors tape
- 6 Buttons for front closure
- Strong thread for attaching facings
- (Optional) Silk buttonhole twist if hand-sewing the buttonholes and buttons.
:::warning
Carlton has a lot of pieces! These lengths are estimates, you may need more or less depending on your size but if in doubt add an extra 0.5 to 1 metre of fabric.
:::
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
### Main Fabric
You want a fabric that has a bit of body that holds its shape. Generally **Wools** of **coating weight** will be the best choice as they will provide warmth and give shape to the coat. Other fabrics of **coating weight** should also work. However if you are looking for something more lightweight you could try **Linens** and lighter **Wools**, but you may need to face these fabrics to give them more body before construction. **Fleece** is a cheaper alternate to **Wools** but may note keep as long, if you are putting the effort into properly tailoring Carlton then you are gonna want to consider buying a fabric that will last for a long period of time.
:::note
Remember that this pattern is intended to be a winter coat so you need to consider warmth when choosing your fabric.
:::
### Linings and Pocket Bags
Lightweight **Cottons** such as **Cotton Silesia**, **Cotton Lawn** or **Glazed Cottons** should do for the body lining but you may find that you require **Silks** or similar for the sleeve linings to reduce friction and make it easier to take on and off over the arms. **Silks** can also be used for the body as well but the **Cotton** will be more durable in the long run. Pocket bags should be out of **Cotton** or something that is strong enough to hold the weight of the intended items you wish to carry in them. **Printed Cottons** are a fun thing to try but if your main fabric is quite bulky you may find they add to much weight.
:::tip
As per usual with Linings it is really down to your prefered lining materials but if you are new to lining a coat we suggest to use the **Cotton** options for the body and pockets and use the **Silk** option for the sleeves.
:::
### Facings
We recommend **Hair canvases**. You may be tempted to use modern interfacing but hair canvases will provide the best results. You will want a combination of different weight hair canvases such as lightweight to medium weight **Tailors Canvas** and heavyweight **Horsehair Canvas**.
A common misconception is that you have to use horsehair canvas for all of it, but this is not the case and really is only needed for areas that need the most structure such as the upper front but are often too stiff for other parts. Tailors canvas is generally used for the majority of facing a coat.
:::tip
You can use fusible or non-fusible facings but you may find that you still need to flatline the facing and fabric pieces together with basting stitches, even after fusing for the best results.
:::
:::note
Certain hair canvases, such as **Horsehair canvas** can have stiff hairs that can poke out of the fabric so will require tape like tailors tape to prevent this from happening.
:::
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
:::note
Certain parts have to be drafted off of the existing parts. How to draft these are provided in the [instructions](/docs/designs/carlton/instructions).
:::
### Materials
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 Front** parts
- Cut **2 Front facing** parts
- Cut **2 Back** parts
- Cut **2 topsleeve** parts
- Cut **2 undersleeve** parts
- Cut **2 tail** parts
- Cut **4 belt** parts
- Cut **2 Collar stand** parts
- Cut **2 collar** parts on the fold or Cut the upper collar on the fold and the under collar on the bias
- Cut **2 cuffFacing** parts
- Cut **2 Pocket** parts
- Cut **4 pocketFlap** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketWelt** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketWelt** parts
:::note
If your main fabric is quite lightweight and flimsy you may need to interface all the parts with a lightweight interfacing.
:::
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut **2 Front lining** parts
- Cut **2 Back** parts
- Cut **2 topsleeve** parts
- Cut **2 undersleeve** parts
- Cut **2 tail** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketBag** parts
- Cut **1 innerPocketTab** parts
- Cut **2 pocketLining** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketBag** parts
- **Light to Mediumweight Hair Canvas**
- Cut **2 Front Facing** parts
- Cut **1 Collar stand** parts
- Cut **2 collar** parts on the bias and seam together
- Cut **2 cuffFacing** parts
- Cut **2 pocketFlap** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketWelt** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketWelt** parts
- **Heavyweight Hair Canvas**
- Cut **2 Front Shoulder** parts
- Cut **2 Chest canvas** parts
- Cut **2 Back shoulder** parts
:::note
The canvas parts need to be cut _nett_ (without seam allowances).
:::
:::info comment
Instead of cutting the canvas parts nett, there is an alternate
method where seam allowance is included on the canvas parts.
The idea is that because the canvas parts have seam allowance,
when they are attached to the main fabric pieces this can allow
ease to be worked into the garment for a better shape.
The seam allowance is then trimmed from the canvas at a later point
in the garment construction process.
However, because this is a more advanced tailoring technique,
our instructions are instead written with the nett canvas method.
Benjamin F.
:::
