---
title: 'Holmes deerstalker hat: Sewing Instructions'
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
sidebar_position: 20
---
## Step 1: Prepping the Pieces
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your
fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for
a more precise sew which is key for hat construction.
:::tip Tips
- Thread marking allows for the seam line to be seen on both the right and wrong
sides.
- Even if you face the crown you may not want to face the ear flaps if you want
them to be less rigid when tieing down.
:::
:::warning
These instructions assume you have marked your seam lines. They may be harder
to follower if you skip this step.
:::
## Step 2: The Crown
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown
pieces together.
- Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not
have one you can use flannels or towels instead.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam
allowances.
- Repeat until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an
odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you
have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn
together pieces.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves
together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk
or for precision. This seam will be referred to as the "centre crown seam"
going forward.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to
catch the seam allowances.
:::tip
Depending on your seam allowance you may want to trim seams as you go to reduce
bulk.
:::
## Step 3: The Ear Flaps
### Ear Flaps with Ties
- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be referred to
as ties going forward.
- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using).
Repeat for other tie.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a
non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
:::tip
If you are uncertain about the length you want for your ties take 1 metre (39")
of ribbon and cut it in half. Use these halves as the ties in the instructions
above. The ties are finished at the end so you can adjust the lengths then.
:::
The lengths above are recommendations so feel free to go as long or as short as
you like with the ties. If you prefer you can make your custom ties with
fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/designs/holmes/cutting/) for more info.
#### Ear Flaps with Buttonholes
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps
have already been interfaced)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces
together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your preferred method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
:::warning
The ear flaps will need to be long enough to go over the top of the peak so
they can be done up by a button on the peak. Do not use this method if you are
not using a button on the top.
:::
:::tip
For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holea, it is recommended to at least
_topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns
so has been marked as optional.
:::
## Step 4: The Visors
There are two methods for constructing the visors. This is due to the different
types of materials the visor inserts can be made of. Method 1 is for materials
that will not be damaged by a needle or iron. Method 2 is for materials that
will be damaged by a needle or iron. Read both methods to determine which is
best for you to use.
### The Visors Method 1
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This
will be referred to as "faced visor" going forward.
- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making
sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the
faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor
insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You
may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of
not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
:::warning
Be careful with the heat of an iron when using certain insert materials. You do
not want to melt the Visor Insert and damage both it and the fabric.
:::
:::note
If preferred you can temporarily attach the visor insert another way that does
not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Just make
sure it does not damage your hat fabric when removing or applying.
:::
### The Visors Method 2
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the
outer curve of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the
stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer
curve and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This
will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled
tightly over the visor insert.
- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making
sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
## Step 5: Assembly and Lining
Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both
methods carefully to determine which is best for you.
### Assembly and Lining Method 1
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of
one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the
faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam
making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the
crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work
from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to
permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible
on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making
sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown omitting _edgestitching_.
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find
you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also
find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat
wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to
help prevent the lining from falling out.
### Assembly and Lining Method 2
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of
one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the
faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam
making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the
crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work
from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown omitting _edgestitching_ and
leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam
lines. Sew the lining to the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to
trim either the lining seams or both seams.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the
hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst
you sew.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to
help prevent the lining from falling out.
:::tip Attention
For both Assembly and Lining Methods, you can attach the visors on first, just
make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is
simply whether you prefer the visors to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps
to be underneath like in the instructions.
For both Assembly and Lining Methods, if you are having trouble dealing with
the curves of the visors, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting
line in the seam allowance of the visor and clip to it. This should make it
easier to bend the visor to shape. Just make sure to hide this stitching and
the clips when attaching the lining.
For both Assembly and Lining Methods, Assembly and Lining instructions are
written with a 6 panelled Holmes in mind. You may find the placement of visors
and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule
of thumb generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown
seam so go from there if struggling.
:::
## Step 6: Finishing Ties
If you did not cut your ties down when constructing the ear flaps, now is the
time to do so. If you made custom ties with fabric then you do not need to do
these steps. Again read through both methods carefully and pick which is the
best for you.
### Finishing Ties Method 1
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the
fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or
equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
### Finishing Ties Method 2
- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if
needed.
- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
:::tip
To determine which way you want to fold the ties, you may find it easier to tie
the ear flaps up first. Generally you want the fold to be on the underside of
the ties but as always it is personal preference.
:::
## Step 7: Button
Unless you are doing the Buttonhole Ear Flaps you do not have to sew a button
on but it may be useful if you want to hide any misaligned seams at the crown
peak.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to
keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend
the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead
so it does not move.
Whilst certainly optional, you may find that a button is what is missing from
the hat to finish the look. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point,
make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is
missing. If it is, attach it permanently. Whilst a covered button is
recommended you can use whatever button you desire, feel free to experiment!
## Step 8: Enjoy your new hat!
That's it! You're all done. Now enjoy the world in your wonderful new hat
whilst maybe solving a crime or two!
:::tip
Remember these instructions are just guidelines so don't worry if you want to
construct the hat differently. The Diagrams are yet to be made for this
pattern so in the mean time if you need a visual aid, watch the YouTube video
that inspired this pattern:
:::
<YouTube id="H24VBFMZJF4" />
