freesewing/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/readme.mdx

---
title: "Holmes: FreeSewing's Holmes Deerstalker Hat"
sidebar_label: Holmes Deerstalker Hat
---

<DesignInfo design="holmes" />

## Designer Notes {#notes}

The idea of Holmes hat came from [a YouTube
video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H24VBFMZJF4) I was watching once, in
which Bernadette Banner is making a Sherlock Holmes deerstalker hat, and
struggles to find the right shape of the gores to form the dome shape, which
ends up doing by trial and error.

As a physicist, I cannot justify solving a problem with an iterative process
when there's an analytical solution, so I just calculated the shape needed, and
implemented it in a Freesewing pattern, creating a plugin to calculate gore
shapes.

The name was an easy choice, I just needed a name starting with H for a
Sherlock Holmes hat :smiley:

Erica

## What You Need {#needs}

To make Holmes, you will need the following:

- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric
  Otions](#fabric))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric (see [Fabric Options](#fabric))
- A rigid material for the visor insert (see [Fabric Options](#fabric))
- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham.
- (Optional) 1 covered button about 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (2.2cm)

:::note
Depending on style the ties and buttons are optional.

- If you are making Buttonhole Ear Flaps you can omit the ties.
- If you are making Tie Ear Flaps you can omit the button.
- Ties can also be made from fabric if you prefer ([see Holmes
  Cutting](/docs/designs/holmes/cutting/))
- You can also use different width and type ribbons for the ties if you prefer.
  :::

## Fabric Options {#fabric}

### Main Fabric

For the main fabric of your hat, a thick fabric will work best to hold the
shape but if you wanna go for a lighter fabric you can interface it to give it
more body. Generally you want to use **wools** of coating weight but you can
experiment with different weights and fabrics with the relevant interfacing.

:::tip
A fun thing to try is printed cotton. Just double up the main fabric so each
piece is double thickness. Then interface it with a **medium firm
interfacing**.
:::

### Lining Fabric

Generally you want a lightweight fabric such as **Silks** or **Cotton Lawn**
but really you can make it from any fabric you deem appropriate for lining.
Just remember it needs to protect the facing and the main fabric from your
head.

### Interfacing

Depending on your main fabric's thickness and how well it keeps its shape you
may need to interface your fabric. If you are uncertain of whether your fabric
requires interfacing, quickly _baste_ your crown pieces together and see if the
crown stays up right when placed on a surface. If it doesn't it needs
interfacing.

As a rule of thumb you will generally need a **Medium Firm
Interfacing** but if your fabric is quite thin you may need a firmer
interfacing. If you are still uncertain you can face your crown pieces and once
again _baste_ the crown pieces together and check how it looks on your head.

You can either use fusible or non-fusible interfacing. If using non-fusible
interfacing you will want to flat line the interfacing to your pieces wih
temporary _pad stitches_.

:::tip
If you are trying to make a more Historical Holmes you can use **Tarlatan**
which is a lightweight stiffened muslin. Just make sure you use natural fibres.
:::

### Visor Insert

For the visor insert you want a firm but thin material. You may want to try
either, **Millinery Buckram**, **Plastic Canvas**, **Plastic Sheets** or **EVA
Foam**. You can use **Leather** just know that depending on depth this may
create a thicker visor and may make the visor harder to close.

:::note
Just remember. All of these are recommendations. If you want to use something
different go for it!
:::

## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}

:::warning
The **crown** pattern piece needs to be cut on the fold to create a whole
piece.
:::

### Materials

- **Main fabric**
  - Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options
  - Cut **4 ear** parts or Cut **2 ear** from main and lining.
  - Cut **4 visor** parts
- **Lining fabric**
  - Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options
- **Visor Insert Material**
  - Cut **2 visor inserts**. Use your visor pattern piece with no seam
    allowance.

### Optional Fabric Ties

If you don't wish to use ribbon for your ties you can make them out of fabric.

Simply cut 4 crossgrain strips of an 1" (2.5cm) or width of your chosen seam
allowances wide and sew two tubes leaving one of the short sides open for
turning. Clip the corners and trim seams. Turn out an press. If desired you can
_Edgestitch_ or _Topstitch_ the tubes to stop the fabric from shifting. The raw
edge of the tubes can then be concealed in the ear flap seam when constructing
the ear flaps.

:::note
It is recommended to draft the pattern nett and use the pattern to trace the
seam lines onto fabric and add the seam allowance on the fabric rather than the
pattern. This to allow for a more precise sew which is needed for a hat.

Recommended seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) on the sides of the crowns, ear flaps and
outer curve of the visors. 1/2" (1.3cm) for the bottom of the crowns, ear flaps
and inner curve of the visors. With these seam allowances you will not have to
trim the allowances if you do not want to.
:::

:::warning
It is recommended to make a mock-up with your crown pattern first before
cutting your fabrics. This is to test the length and ease of the crown piece.
Make sure to cut off the bottom seam allowance before trying it on. If it is
too tight who will need to re-draft the pattern with more head ease just
remember the ease is split across each crown.

If the peak is too high you may want to re-draft the pattern with the crown
length reduced. Once re-drafted make another mock-up to check whether you are
satisfied with the changes or not. Repeat again if you are not satisfied.
:::