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106 lines
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authors: 1
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caption: 'Picture you and him, in matching coats.'
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date: '2018-01-26'
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intro: "This one's for the ladies --- and I'm not (just) talking about that picture of heart-throb Benedict Cumberbatch at the top of this post."
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title: 'Announcing Carlita, the womenswear version of our Carlton coat.'
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---
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This one's for the ladies --- and I'm not (just) talking about that picture of
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heart-throb Benedict Cumberbatch at the top of this post.
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<!-- truncate -->
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Instead, I'm talking about the release of our latest pattern: the [Carlita
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Coat](/designs/carlita) which is out in beta as of today.
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Carlita is --- you guessed it --- the womenswear version of our Carlton coat,
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which recreates the iconic Sherlock Holmes coat worn by BC on the BBC series.
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## How did we do it?
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For details on how this project came to be, I refer you to [the Carlton
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announcement post](/blog/announcing-carlton-and-bent/). Here, I'd like to
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focus on the specifics of how we turned this menswear pattern into a coat for
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ladies.
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We wanted to stay as close to the original as possible, so all we did was make
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changes to address one challenge: fitting the breasts.
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### Princess, meet your seam
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We drew an extra princess seam in the front panel of the coat, through which we
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added shaping for the bust.
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To be able to do that accurately, Carlita requires three extra measurements in
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addition to the measurements required by Carlton. They are:
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- The [high bust](/docs/measurements/#highBust)
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- The [bust span](/docs/measurements/#bustSpan)
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- The [high point shoulder to
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bust](/docs/measurements/#highPointShoulderToBust)
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We use your high bust measurements to draft the coat, and then do a full bust
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adjustment on the princess seam based on your (full) chest circumference, bust
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span and HPS to bust.
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### All of the pockets, but we had to move some of them
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The addition of the princess seam made the map pocket placement a bit
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difficult, so we've slightly moved it, and aligned it vertically, rather than
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slightly tilted as it is in Carlton.
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This way, the pocket can be integrated in the princess seam, somewhere in the
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underboob region.
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### One extra option: The princess seam smooth factor
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Carlita also has one extra option that Carlton doesn't have, the somewhat
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elaborately named [Princess seam smooth
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factor](/docs/designs/carlita/options#princessSeamSmoothFactor).
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This controls how sharply the princess seam will revert back after having added
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the extra volume for your chest.
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A picture says more than a thousand words, so here's the option sampled on the
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relevant part of the pattern:
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As you can see, the option controls the urgency with which the princess seam
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reverts back to your waistline after passing the fullest point of your bust.
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A low factor will make for a more fitted coat, but also a more curvy seam that
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is harder to sew.
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A higher smooth factor will smooth this out so it's a more sloped retreat to
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the downward seam. This will make the coat less fitted under your chest, and
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the seam easier to sew.
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## A reminder about made-to-measure patterns
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This goes without saying for regular visitors to this site, but if you're new
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here, it's worth repeating:
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> This coat is not drafted with a certain cup size in mind. Instead, it will
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> adapt to your chest based on your measurements.
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## Ladies, we need your feedback
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This is our first womenswear pattern with a fitted chest. As such, we're
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breaking new ground here, and I'd be interested to see how this pattern adapts
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to a variety of body shapes/cup sizes.
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If you're planning to make this coat, or a muslin of it, please share your
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experience, and don't hesitate to get in touch should you run into any issues.
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I plan to design more womenswear patterns, so if there are any fit issues, I'd
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like to know about it sooner rather than later.
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## Shout-out
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Last but not least, I'd like to thank [Anneke](http://www.annekecaramin.com/)
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for her help throughout this project, and tolerating my countless rants about
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my love/hate relationship with boobs.
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