51dc1d9732
Refer to the CHANGELOG for all info. --------- Co-authored-by: Wouter van Wageningen <wouter.vdub@yahoo.com> Co-authored-by: Josh Munic <jpmunic@gmail.com> Co-authored-by: Jonathan Haas <haasjona@gmail.com>
105 lines
4 KiB
Text
105 lines
4 KiB
Text
---
|
|
authors: 1
|
|
caption: 'Picture you and him, in matching coats.'
|
|
date: '2018-01-26'
|
|
intro: "This one's for the ladies --- and I'm not (just) talking about that picture of heart-throb Benedict Cumberbatch at the top of this post."
|
|
title: 'Announcing Carlita, the womenswear version of our Carlton coat.'
|
|
---
|
|
|
|
This one's for the ladies --- and I'm not (just) talking about that picture of
|
|
heart-throb Benedict Cumberbatch at the top of this post.
|
|
|
|
<!-- truncate -->
|
|
|
|
Instead, I'm talking about the release of our latest pattern: the [Carlita
|
|
Coat](/designs/carlita) which is out in beta as of today.
|
|
|
|
Carlita is --- you guessed it --- the womenswear version of our Carlton coat,
|
|
which recreates the iconic Sherlock Holmes coat worn by BC on the BBC series.
|
|
|
|
## How did we do it?
|
|
|
|
For details on how this project came to be, I refer you to [the Carlton
|
|
announcement post](/blog/announcing-carlton-and-bent/). Here, I'd like to
|
|
focus on the specifics of how we turned this menswear pattern into a coat for
|
|
ladies.
|
|
|
|
We wanted to stay as close to the original as possible, so all we did was make
|
|
changes to address one challenge: fitting the breasts.
|
|
|
|
### Princess, meet your seam
|
|
|
|
We drew an extra princess seam in the front panel of the coat, through which we
|
|
added shaping for the bust.
|
|
|
|
To be able to do that accurately, Carlita requires three extra measurements in
|
|
addition to the measurements required by Carlton. They are:
|
|
|
|
- The [high bust](/docs/measurements/#highBust)
|
|
- The [bust span](/docs/measurements/#bustSpan)
|
|
- The [high point shoulder to
|
|
bust](/docs/measurements/#highPointShoulderToBust)
|
|
|
|
We use your high bust measurements to draft the coat, and then do a full bust
|
|
adjustment on the princess seam based on your (full) chest circumference, bust
|
|
span and HPS to bust.
|
|
|
|
### All of the pockets, but we had to move some of them
|
|
|
|
The addition of the princess seam made the map pocket placement a bit
|
|
difficult, so we've slightly moved it, and aligned it vertically, rather than
|
|
slightly tilted as it is in Carlton.
|
|
|
|
This way, the pocket can be integrated in the princess seam, somewhere in the
|
|
underboob region.
|
|
|
|
### One extra option: The princess seam smooth factor
|
|
|
|
Carlita also has one extra option that Carlton doesn't have, the somewhat
|
|
elaborately named [Princess seam smooth
|
|
factor](/docs/designs/carlita/options#princessSeamSmoothFactor).
|
|
|
|
This controls how sharply the princess seam will revert back after having added
|
|
the extra volume for your chest.
|
|
|
|
A picture says more than a thousand words, so here's the option sampled on the
|
|
relevant part of the pattern:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
As you can see, the option controls the urgency with which the princess seam
|
|
reverts back to your waistline after passing the fullest point of your bust.
|
|
|
|
A low factor will make for a more fitted coat, but also a more curvy seam that
|
|
is harder to sew.
|
|
|
|
A higher smooth factor will smooth this out so it's a more sloped retreat to
|
|
the downward seam. This will make the coat less fitted under your chest, and
|
|
the seam easier to sew.
|
|
|
|
## A reminder about made-to-measure patterns
|
|
|
|
This goes without saying for regular visitors to this site, but if you're new
|
|
here, it's worth repeating:
|
|
|
|
> This coat is not drafted with a certain cup size in mind. Instead, it will
|
|
> adapt to your chest based on your measurements.
|
|
|
|
## Ladies, we need your feedback
|
|
|
|
This is our first womenswear pattern with a fitted chest. As such, we're
|
|
breaking new ground here, and I'd be interested to see how this pattern adapts
|
|
to a variety of body shapes/cup sizes.
|
|
|
|
If you're planning to make this coat, or a muslin of it, please share your
|
|
experience, and don't hesitate to get in touch should you run into any issues.
|
|
|
|
I plan to design more womenswear patterns, so if there are any fit issues, I'd
|
|
like to know about it sooner rather than later.
|
|
|
|
## Shout-out
|
|
|
|
Last but not least, I'd like to thank [Anneke](http://www.annekecaramin.com/)
|
|
for her help throughout this project, and tolerating my countless rants about
|
|
my love/hate relationship with boobs.
|