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title: "Wahid waistcoat: Sewing Instructions"
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### Étape 1 : Thermocoller l'entoilage
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#### Repasser l'entoilage sur les passepoils/rabats de poche
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Place your pocket welt with the good side down, and your pocket interfacing on top.
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The interfacing is a bit shorter than the welt, so make sure to align the side that has the help line marked on it.
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For each pocket, press the interfacing piece to the bad side of the pocket welt.
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#### Repasser l'entoilage sur les devants
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Place your front with the good side down, and your interfacing on top.
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Press the interfacing in place.
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> **Prenez votre temps**
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>
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> Ne passez pas le fer simplement pour le repasser, vous voulez vraiment repasser sur votre tissu pour qu'il se thermocolle bien.
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>
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> Placez votre fer à repasser et pressez pendant 10 secondes environ avant de passer au point suivant pour répéter le processus.
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### Étape 2 : Assembler la parementure et la doublure de devant
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#### Coudre la parementure à la doublure
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Place your front facing and lining with good sides together. Pin the edges of the facing/lining boundary in place.
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Sew them together.
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#### Repasser sur la marge de couture ouverte
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Press open the seam allowance between facing and lining.
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### Étape 3 : Fermer toutes les pinces
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#### Fermer les pinces dos
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Fold your back with good sides together, and sew the back dart.
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> N'oubliez pas de faire la même chose pour la doublure
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#### Fermer les pinces devant
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Fold your front (and the interfacing fused to it) with good sides together, and sew the front dart.
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### Étape 4 : Repasser toutes les pinces
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#### Repasser les pinces de devant
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Once cut open, press the front darts open.
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#### Repasser les pinces dos
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If you cut open the back darts, press them open. If not, press them to the side.
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> N'oubliez pas de faire la même chose pour la doublure
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### Étape 5 : Construire les poches
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#### Attacher le fond de poche au passepoil de poche
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Place your pocket bag down with the good side up, and your pocket welt on top of it with the good side down.
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Align the straight side of the bag with the side of the welt that has no interfacing, and sew them together at the standard seam allowance.
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#### Repasser pour ouvrir la couture
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When you are done, press open this seam.
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#### Marquer l'emplacement de votre poche
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Your front pattern piece has a helpline on it to show where the welt pocket should go. It's two half rectangles that got joined together when you closed the dart to form the shape of your welt pocket.
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If you haven't marked the four corners of that rectangle yet, you should do so now.
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> La poche est placée avec un léger angle sur votre patron. En avançant, dans les illustrations, je vais dessiner la poche droite car cela facilite les choses.
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#### Fixer le passepoil et le parement de poche
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Place your front piece down with the good side up. We're going to attach the welt to the bottom line of your pocket outline, and the facing to the top line.
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> Si vous n'avez jamais fait de poche passepoilée auparavant, cela peut paraître un peu contre-intuitif d'attacher la poche à l'extérieur du vêtement. La poche devrait être à l'intérieur, non ?
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>
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> Détendez-vous, la poche se retrouvera bien à l'intérieur
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Both your pocket welt and your pocket facing have a help line on them. That line needs to line up with the long edges of your pocket.
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Place the pocket welt at the bottom, and the pocket facing on the top, both with their good side down.
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Carefully align their helpline on the pocket outline. They should now sit side by side, and just bump into each other at the middle of your pocket.
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Now sew along the helpline which marks the long edge of your pocket.
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> Il est important que les lignes que vous cousez forment maintenant les bords longs d'un rectangle parfait. Cela déterminera la forme de votre poche, donc si vous faites une ligne plus longue que l'autre, ou si elles ne sont pas parallèles ou mal alignées, votre poche aura mauvaise allure.
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#### Couper et ouvrir la poche
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Time to carefully cut open the pocket. Start in the middle of the pocket, and cut towards along the longest edges towards the side.
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At the edges of your pocket you need to stop cutting open the center and instead cut towards the end of your line of stitches under 45 degrees.
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> Ce petit triangle que vous coupez à la fin est important. Assurez-vous de bien couper jusqu'à l'extrémité de vos points, sans les couper.
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#### Repasser pour ouvrir la marge de couture
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Press open the seam allowance along the long edges of your pocket.
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#### Retourner le parement de poche vers l'arrière et repasser
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Flip the pocket facing to the back side and press it down.
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#### Repasser les triangles sur les côtés courts
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Move your pocket facing out of the way to reveal those little traingles at the side of your pocket.
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Fold them back making sure you to keep your pocket opening a clean rectangle, and press them down.
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#### Retourner le passepoil/rabat vers l'arrière, le plier et le repasser
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Flip the pocket welt with the attached pocket back tot he back side.
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Fold your welt down at the point where it reaches the top of the pocket. The welt should cover the entire pocket opening.
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> L'illustration le montre depuis le dos car il est plus facile de voir ce qui se passe de cette façon. Cependant, vous devriez vérifier à l'avant pour vous assurer que votre passepoil de poche est bien placé.
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#### Coudre les triangles de poche
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Put your front down with the good side up and make sure the pocket facing and welt lie flat.
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Fold your front over vertically at the edge of your pocket to reveal that little triangle at the short side of your pocket opening.
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Sew this triangle down by sewing right next to the fold, and pocket edge.
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#### Fermer le fond de poche
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Sew your pocket facing to the pocket bag to finish your pocket.
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> Cela devrait aller de soi, mais attention à ne pas coudre votre fond de poche au devant de votre gilet.
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#### Repasser votre poche terminée
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When you're done, give your pocket a good final press.
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### Etape 6: Couture centrale du dos
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Put your two back pieces with their good side together and sew the center back seam.
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When you're done, press open this seam.
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> N'oubliez pas de faire la même chose pour la doublure
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### Étape 7 : Joindre le dos aux devants
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Put your back down with the good side up and put your fronts on it with the good side down. Align the side seams, pin and sew.
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When you're done, press open these seams.
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### Étape 8: Joindre les épaules
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Align the shoulder seams, sew them, and press open the seam allowance.
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> N'oubliez pas de faire la même chose pour la doublure
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### Étape 9 : Insérez la ligne
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#### Faire glisser la doublure dans le gilet
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Place your lining in your waistcoat, good sides together. In other words, the waistcoat should have the good side in and bad side out. The lining should have the bad side in and good side out.
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#### Épingler la doublure sur le tissu
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Align the lining with the fabric edge, and pin it in place.
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Start at center back, and follow the neckline down the front closure. Work your way around the hem, but leave about a 15cm gap at the center back.
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#### Coudre la doublure au tissu
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With your lining pinned neatly in place, sew lining and fabric together.
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Do not forget to leave that 15cm gap at the center back.
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#### Retourner le gilet et repasser les coutures
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Reach through the gap you left open at the hem, and turn your waistcoat.
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Press the edges you've just sewn, making sure to roll the fabric a bit so that the lining is always hidden.
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### Étape 10 : Terminer les emmanchures
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#### Épingler la marge de couture du tissu
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All along the armhole, pin back the seam allowance of your waistcoat fabric. While doing so, keep your lining out of the way.
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#### Épingler la doublure
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Now fold back your lining a bit before the edge of the armhole and pin it down.
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#### Coudre la doublure à la main sur le tissu
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Use a slipstitch to hand-sew the lining to the fabric all along the armhole.
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### Étape 11 : Terminer l'ourlet
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Remember that gap we didn't close in step 9? Time to close it.
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Use a slipstitch to hand-sew the lining to the fabric and close the hem.
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### Étape 12: Faire les boutonnières
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If you haven't done so yet, transfer the buttonhole placement from your pattern onto your fabric.
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Make those buttonholes.
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### Étape 13: Coudre les boutons
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Pin your waistcoat closed and transfer the location of your buttonholes to the button side.
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Sew on those buttons.
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> Vous pouvez également transférer l'emplacement des boutons à partir du patron. Cependant, le transfert des trous de boutons que vous venez de faire vous assure que les boutons et les boutonnières s'alignent, même si votre ou vos boutonnier(s) sont un peu décalés.
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### Étape 14: Optionnel : Surpiquer les bords
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If you'd like, you can pick-stitch around the edges of your waistcoat.
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Pick-stitching needs to be done by hand. You run a simple stitch a few mm from the edges of your waistcoat, but only let your stitches surface for a few threads. You've certainly seen it as a finish on suit jackets.
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> Vous pouvez faire la couture avec un fil de la même couleur ou utiliser une couleur contrastante si vous vous sentez audacieux.
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> Bien que la couture AMF ajoute un aspect esthétique, il permet également de maintenir votre tissu à votre doublure/parementure ; ce qui les empêche de se décaler par la suite.
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After this, you probably want to iron your waistcoat.