Joost De Cock
GitHub
commit
43fb3a10e0
57 changed files with 391 additions and 287 deletions
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@ -7,19 +7,19 @@ Benjamin ist ein eher einfaches Schnittmuster, aber die von dir gewählten Optio
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## Ohne Einstellband
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- **Oberstoff**
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- Schneide **4 Knoten**
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- Schneide **2 Kragenbänder**
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- Cut **4 Bow** parts
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- Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
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- **Einlage**
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- Schneide **4 Einlagen-Knoten**
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- Schneide **2 Einlagen-Kragenbänder**
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- Cut **4 Bow** parts
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- Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
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## Mit Anpassungsband
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- **Oberstoff**
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- Schneide **1 Knoten 1**
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- Schneide **1 Knoten 2**
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- Schneide **2 Knoten 3**
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- Cut **1 Short Bow** part
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- Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
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- Cut **1 Long Bow** part
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- **Einlage**
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- Schneide **1 Einlagen-Knoten 1**
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- Schneide **1 Einlagen-Knoten 2**
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- Schneide **2 Einlagen-Knoten 3**
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- Cut **1 Short Bow** part
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- Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
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- Cut **1 Long Bow** part
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@ -7,19 +7,19 @@ Benjamin is a rather simple pattern, but your options will determine what needs
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## Sin cinta de ajuste
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- **Tela principal**
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- Cortar **4 nudo**
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- Corta **2 banda de collar**
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- Cut **4 Bow** parts
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- Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
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- **Interfaz**
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- Corta **nudo de interfaz**
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- Corta **2 banda de collar interface**
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- Cut **4 Bow** parts
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- Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
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## Con cinta de ajuste
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- **Tela principal**
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- Cortar **1 nudo 1**
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- Cortar **1 nudo 2**
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- Cortar **2 nudo 3**
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- Cut **1 Short Bow** part
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- Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
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- Cut **1 Long Bow** part
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- **Interfaz**
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- Cortar **1 nudo de interfaz 1**
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- Cortar **1 nudo de interfaz 2**
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- Corta **2 nudo de interfaz 3**
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- Cut **1 Short Bow** part
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- Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
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- Cut **1 Long Bow** part
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@ -7,19 +7,19 @@ Benjamin est un modèle plutôt simple, mais vos options détermineront ce qui d
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## Sans ruban d'ajustement
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- **Tissu principal**
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- Couper **4 Nœud**
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- Couper **2 bandes de col**
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- Cut **4 Bow** parts
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- Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
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- **Entoilage**
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- Couper **4 entoilages de Nœud**
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- Couper **2 entoilages de bandes de col**
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- Cut **4 Bow** parts
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- Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
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## Avec ruban d'ajustement
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- **Tissu principal**
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- Couper **1 Nœud 1**
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- Couper **1 Nœud 2**
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- Couper **2 Nœud 3**
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- Cut **1 Short Bow** part
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- Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
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- Cut **1 Long Bow** part
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- **Entoilage**
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- Couper **1 entoilages de Nœud 1**
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- Couper **1 entoilages de Nœud 2**
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- Couper **2 entoilages de Nœud 3**
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- Cut **1 Short Bow** part
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- Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
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- Cut **1 Long Bow** part
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@ -7,19 +7,19 @@ Benjamin is a rather simple pattern, but your options will determine what needs
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## Zonder aanpaslintje
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- **Buitenstof**
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- Knip **4 Knoop**
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- Knip **2 Kraagband**
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- Cut **4 Bow** parts
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- Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
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- **Tussenvoering**
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- Knip **4 tussenvoering knoop**
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- Knip **2 tussenvoering kraagband**
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- Cut **4 Bow** parts
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- Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
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## Met aanpaslintje
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- **Buitenstof**
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- Knip **1 Knoop 1**
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- Knip **1 Knoop 2**
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- Knip **2 Knoop 3**
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- Cut **1 Short Bow** part
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- Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
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- Cut **1 Long Bow** part
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- **Tussenvoering**
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- Knip **1 tussenvoering knoop 1**
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- Knip **1 tussenvoering knoop 2**
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- Knip **2 tussenvoering knoop 3**
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- Cut **1 Short Bow** part
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- Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
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- Cut **1 Long Bow** part
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@ -7,19 +7,19 @@ Benjamin is a rather simple pattern, but your options will determine what needs
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## Without adjustment ribbon
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- **Main fabric**
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- Cut **4 Knot**
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- Cut **2 Collar band**
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- Cut **4 Bow** parts
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- Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
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- **Interfacing**
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- Cut **4 interfacing knot**
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- Cut **2 interfacing collar band**
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- Cut **4 Bow** parts
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- Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
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## With adjustment ribbon
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- **Main fabric**
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- Cut **1 Knot 1**
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- Cut **1 Knot 2**
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- Cut **2 Knot 3**
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- Cut **1 Short Bow** part
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- Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
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- Cut **1 Long Bow** part
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- **Interfacing**
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- Cut **1 interfacing knot 1**
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- Cut **1 interfacing knot 2**
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- Cut **2 interfacing knot 3**
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- Cut **1 Short Bow** part
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- Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
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- Cut **1 Long Bow** part
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@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ title: "Benjamin bow tie: Sewing Instructions"
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### Präzision
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Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precission with sewing is key to a good result. Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out. Um gute Ergebnisse zu erzielen, fand ich es immer sehr hilfreich, die Nahtlinie auf die Einlage zu übertragen und dieser beim Nähen zu folgen.
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Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precision with sewing is key to a good result. Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out. Um gute Ergebnisse zu erzielen, fand ich es immer sehr hilfreich, die Nahtlinie auf die Einlage zu übertragen und dieser beim Nähen zu folgen.
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### Setze das Bügeleisen weise ein
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@ -25,11 +25,23 @@ page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
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</Note>
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### Fliegen-Einstellband
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### Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware
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Dieses Schnittmuster ermöglicht es dir, eine Fliege zu erstellen, die genau die richtige Länge für einen bestimmten Hals hat. Es ermöglicht es dir auch, eine Fliege zu erstellen, die ein Band und das nötige Zubehör hat, um die Fliege für verschiedene Hälse anpassbar zu machen. Das ist sehr nützlich, wenn deine Hemden nicht alle dasselbe Halsmaß/Kragenweite haben oder wenn du manchmal gerne Hemden trägst, die etwas mehr Zugabe am Hals haben.
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By default, this design makes a fixed-length bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck size. However, by enabling the Adjustment Ribbon option, it can also make a tie that uses an adjustment ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie adjustable to different neck sizes. Das ist sehr nützlich, wenn deine Hemden nicht alle dasselbe Halsmaß/Kragenweite haben oder wenn du manchmal gerne Hemden trägst, die etwas mehr Zugabe am Hals haben.
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These ribbons can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
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These adjustment ribbons and bow tie hardware can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
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<Note>
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These instructions are for the type of adjustment ribbon that comes with
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holes at regular intervals, to be used in combination with two-piece
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hardware consisting of an oval loop part and a part with a smaller loop
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and attached T-shaped hook.
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There are other styles of bow tie ribbons and hardware, but their use is
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outside the scope of these instructions.
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</Note>
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### Nahtzugabe
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@ -43,13 +55,15 @@ Apply interfacing to all parts where you feel it's needed.
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### Ohne Einstellband
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#### Schritt 2: Den Knoten an das Kragenband annähen
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#### Step 2: Sew the bow to the collar band
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Put the collar band part on the bow tie knot part, right sides together. Align the ends of both parts. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
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Put one of the Collar Band parts on one of the Bow parts, right sides together. Align the ends of both parts. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
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Do this for each end on both collar bands.
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In a similar fashion, sew a second Bow part to the other end of the same Collar Band.
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Repeat these steps to sew the other 2 Bows to the other Collar Band.
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Press open all the seams.
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@ -59,23 +73,23 @@ You now have two identical single sided bow ties.
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Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Nähe rundherum, aber lass dabei einen Bereich von 5cm in der Mitte des Kragenbandes offen. Durch diese Öffnung werden wir die Fliege auf rechts wenden.
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Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all along the edges, but leave an area of 5 cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
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#### Schritt 4: Wenden
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Schneide die Nahtzugabe an den üblichen Stellen zurück und mache kleine Schnitte, um glatte Kurven zu ermöglichen.
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Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for a smooth curves.
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Verwende dann das hintere Ende einer großen Häkelnadel oder ein anderes, angemessen langes und schmales Objekt, um beide Seiten durch die kleine Öffnung auf rechts zu wenden. Beginne damit, die beiden Stoffteile am Ende der Schleife sanft auseinanderzuziehen. Dann drücke das Ende der Schleife zwischen die beiden Stoffteile. Drücke vorsichtig weiter, während du den Rest der Fliege über sie hinweg ziehst. This can be a tedious procedure. Lass dir Zeit und sei behutsam. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
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Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny object, to turn the two sides right-side-out through the little opening. Start by gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
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Sobald du die Fliege auf rechts gewendet hast, drücke alle Ecken und Kanten nach außen bevor du die Fliege bügelst.
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Once you have the tie right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides out before giving it a good press.
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#### Schritt 5: Schließen
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Das Einzige, was jetzt noch zu tun ist, ist die kleine Öffnung zu schließen, die wir zum Wenden verwendet haben. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch. Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Da diese Stelle normalerweise vom Kragen deines Hemdes verdeckt wird, wird es nicht so auffallen.
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Now all that is left is closing the little hole we used to turn the bow tie right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch. Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
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Now give it one last press and admire your work.
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@ -85,9 +99,9 @@ Now give it one last press and admire your work.
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Der erste Schritt ist, das Einstellband an das kürzeste Teil der Schlaufen zu nähen. The ribbon should be 290mm long. Wenn es eine andere Länge hat, musst du sicherstellen, dass du es so ausrichtest, dass das Band und das kurze Schleifenteil zusammen so lang sind wie das lange Schleifenteil.
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The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the Short Bow part. The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as the long bow piece.
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Put right sides of the short bow piece and the ribbon together.
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Put right sides of the Short Bow piece and the ribbon together.
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Now sew across the end to join the parts.
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@ -95,35 +109,42 @@ Now sew across the end to join the parts.
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Lay both the parts of the medium bow on top of each other, right sides together. Und lege die lange Schleife auf das Band und den kurzen Schleifenteil, ebenso rechts auf rechts.
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Lay both of the Medium Bow parts on top of each other, right sides together.
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Sew all along, but leave the short ends open. Durch diese Öffnungen werden wir die Fliegenteile auf rechts wenden.
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Sew all along the edges, but leave the short end open. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie part right side out.
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Lay the Long Bow on top of the ribbon and Short Bow part, also right sides together.
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Again, sew all along the edges, leaving the short end open.
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#### Schritt 4: Wenden
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Schneide die Nahtzugabe an den üblichen Stellen zurück und mache kleine Schnitte, um glatte Kurven zu ermöglichen.
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Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for a smooth curves.
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Verwende dann das hintere Ende einer großen Häkelnadel oder ein anderes, angemessen langes und schmales Objekt, um beide Teile durch die Enden auf rechts zu wenden. Beginne damit, die beiden Stoffteile am Ende der Schleife sanft auseinanderzuziehen. Dann drücke das Ende der Schleife zwischen die beiden Stoffteile. Drücke vorsichtig weiter, während du den Rest der Fliege über sie hinweg ziehst. This can be a tedious procedure. Lass dir Zeit und sei behutsam. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
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Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny object, to turn the two parts right-side-out through the ends. Start by gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
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Sobald du ein Teil auf rechts gewendet hast, drücke alle Ecken und Kanten nach außen bevor du die Fliege bügelst.
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Once you have the part right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides out before giving it a good press.
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Do this with both parts.
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#### Schritt 5: Zubehör hinzufügen
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Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable. The oval looking piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon. And the piece with the T shaped attachment will go on the part with the ribbon.
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Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable. The oval loop piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon. And, the piece with the T-hook will go on the part with the ribbon.
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First do the part without the ribbon. Das liegt daran, dass das Stoffende des Schleifenstückes durch die ovale Öffnung passen muss, bevor wir das Zubehör annähen. If you would do it in the other sequence, you may not be able to feed it through.
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First do the part without the ribbon. This is because the fabric tail of the ribbon piece will have to go through the oval part before sewing on its hardware. If you would do it in the other sequence, you may not be able to feed it through.
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To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps:
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To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps, before sewing it in a fourth step:
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First we fold the side in under an angle. Dann falten wir das Ende darüber, mit einer kleinen Nahtzugabe, etwa 5mm. Then we fold it over again, for about 1cm. Finally we stick the oval ring under this last fold and stitch across.
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1. First we fold the sides in at an angle.
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2. Then we fold the end over by just a small seam allowance, something like 5 mm.
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3. Then we fold it over again, for about 1 cm.
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4. Finally we stick the oval loop under this last fold and stitch across.
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Now feed the ribbon piece through the oval part and finish it the same way.
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Now feed the adjustment ribbon piece through the oval loop, and attach the T-hook to the end of the ribbon, sewing it in the same way.
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Hook the T in one of the adjustment holes and your bow tie is done!
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@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ title: "Benjamin bow tie: Sewing Instructions"
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### Precisión
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Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precission with sewing is key to a good result. Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out. To get a great result I found it very helpful to trace the actual seam lines onto the interfacing and follow that while sewing.
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Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precision with sewing is key to a good result. Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out. To get a great result I found it very helpful to trace the actual seam lines onto the interfacing and follow that while sewing.
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### Presione sabiamente
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@ -25,11 +25,23 @@ page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
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</Note>
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### Cinta de ajuste de atadura de arco
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### Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware
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This pattern allows you to make a bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck size. It can also make one that has a ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie adjustable to different neck sizes. This is useful if not all of your shirts have the same neck measurements, or if you sometimes like shirts with more ease in the neck.
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By default, this design makes a fixed-length bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck size. However, by enabling the Adjustment Ribbon option, it can also make a tie that uses an adjustment ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie adjustable to different neck sizes. This is useful if not all of your shirts have the same neck measurements, or if you sometimes like shirts with more ease in the neck.
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These ribbons can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
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These adjustment ribbons and bow tie hardware can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
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<Note>
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These instructions are for the type of adjustment ribbon that comes with
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holes at regular intervals, to be used in combination with two-piece
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hardware consisting of an oval loop part and a part with a smaller loop
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and attached T-shaped hook.
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There are other styles of bow tie ribbons and hardware, but their use is
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outside the scope of these instructions.
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</Note>
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### Margen de costura
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@ -43,13 +55,15 @@ Apply interfacing to all parts where you feel it's needed.
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### Sin cinta de ajuste
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#### Paso 2: Empuje el nudo a la banda de cuello
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#### Step 2: Sew the bow to the collar band
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Put the collar band part on the bow tie knot part, right sides together. Align the ends of both parts. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
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Put one of the Collar Band parts on one of the Bow parts, right sides together. Align the ends of both parts. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
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Do this for each end on both collar bands.
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In a similar fashion, sew a second Bow part to the other end of the same Collar Band.
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Repeat these steps to sew the other 2 Bows to the other Collar Band.
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Press open all the seams.
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@ -59,7 +73,7 @@ You now have two identical single sided bow ties.
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Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all along, but leaving an area of 5cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
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Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all along the edges, but leave an area of 5 cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
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#### Paso 4: girando
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|
|
@ -75,7 +89,7 @@ Once you have the tie right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sid
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Now all that is left is closing the litle hole we used to turn the bow tie right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch. Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
|
||||
Now all that is left is closing the little hole we used to turn the bow tie right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch. Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
|
||||
|
||||
Now give it one last press and admire your work.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -85,9 +99,9 @@ Now give it one last press and admire your work.
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the shortest of the bow parts. The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as the long bow piece.
|
||||
The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the Short Bow part. The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as the long bow piece.
|
||||
|
||||
Put right sides of the short bow piece and the ribbon together.
|
||||
Put right sides of the Short Bow piece and the ribbon together.
|
||||
|
||||
Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -95,9 +109,13 @@ Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Lay both the parts of the medium bow on top of each other, right sides together. And lay the long bow on top of the ribbon and short bow part, also rights sides together.
|
||||
Lay both of the Medium Bow parts on top of each other, right sides together.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew all along, but leave the short ends open. Through these openings we will turn the bow tie parts right side out.
|
||||
Sew all along the edges, but leave the short end open. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie part right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
Lay the Long Bow on top of the ribbon and Short Bow part, also right sides together.
|
||||
|
||||
Again, sew all along the edges, leaving the short end open.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Paso 4: girando
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -113,17 +131,20 @@ Do this with both parts.
|
|||
|
||||
#### Paso 5: Añadir hardware
|
||||
|
||||
Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable. The oval looking piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon. And the piece with the T shaped attachment will go on the part with the ribbon.
|
||||
Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable. The oval loop piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon. And, the piece with the T-hook will go on the part with the ribbon.
|
||||
|
||||
First do the part without the ribbon. This is because the fabric tail of the ribbon piece will have to go through the oval part before sewing on its hardware. If you would do it in the other sequence, you may not be able to feed it through.
|
||||
|
||||
To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps:
|
||||
To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps, before sewing it in a fourth step:
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
First we fold the side in under an angle. Then we fold the end over by just a small seam allowance, something like 5mm. Then we fold it over again, for about 1cm. Finally we stick the oval ring under this last fold and stitch across.
|
||||
1. First we fold the sides in at an angle.
|
||||
2. Then we fold the end over by just a small seam allowance, something like 5 mm.
|
||||
3. Then we fold it over again, for about 1 cm.
|
||||
4. Finally we stick the oval loop under this last fold and stitch across.
|
||||
|
||||
Now feed the ribbon piece through the oval part and finish it the same way.
|
||||
Now feed the adjustment ribbon piece through the oval loop, and attach the T-hook to the end of the ribbon, sewing it in the same way.
|
||||
|
||||
Hook the T in one of the adjustment holes and your bow tie is done!
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ titre : "Nœud papillon Benjamin : Instructions de couture"
|
|||
|
||||
### Précision
|
||||
|
||||
Comme un nœud papillon est un objet assez petit, la précision de la couture est la clé d'un bon résultat. Toute légère différence entre la partie supérieure et la partie inférieure du nœud se verra. Pour obtenir un excellent résultat, j'ai trouvé très utile de tracer les lignes de couture sur l'entoilage et de les suivre pendant la couture.
|
||||
Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precision with sewing is key to a good result. Toute légère différence entre la partie supérieure et la partie inférieure du nœud se verra. Pour obtenir un excellent résultat, j'ai trouvé très utile de tracer les lignes de couture sur l'entoilage et de les suivre pendant la couture.
|
||||
|
||||
### Repassez judicieusement
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -25,11 +25,23 @@ sur [le droit fil de tissu](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
|
|||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Ruban d'ajustement de nœud papillon
|
||||
### Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware
|
||||
|
||||
Ce patron vous permet de faire un nœud papillon à la bonne longueur pour un certain tour de cou. Il permet également d'en faire un qui possède un ruban et les boucles qui rendent le nœud papillon réglable pour différentes tailles de cou. Ceci est utile si toutes vos chemises n'ont pas les mêmes mesures de cou, ou si vous portez parfois des chemises avec plus d'aisance au cou.
|
||||
By default, this design makes a fixed-length bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck size. However, by enabling the Adjustment Ribbon option, it can also make a tie that uses an adjustment ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie adjustable to different neck sizes. Ceci est utile si toutes vos chemises n'ont pas les mêmes mesures de cou, ou si vous portez parfois des chemises avec plus d'aisance au cou.
|
||||
|
||||
Ces rubans peuvent être trouvés dans les meilleures merceries ou peuvent être commandés en ligne.
|
||||
These adjustment ribbons and bow tie hardware can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
These instructions are for the type of adjustment ribbon that comes with
|
||||
holes at regular intervals, to be used in combination with two-piece
|
||||
hardware consisting of an oval loop part and a part with a smaller loop
|
||||
and attached T-shaped hook.
|
||||
|
||||
There are other styles of bow tie ribbons and hardware, but their use is
|
||||
outside the scope of these instructions.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Marge de couture
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -43,88 +55,97 @@ Appliquez de l'entoilage sur les pièces où vous pensez que c'est nécessaire.
|
|||
|
||||
### Sans ruban d'ajustement
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 2 : Coudre le nœud à la bande de col
|
||||
#### Step 2: Sew the bow to the collar band
|
||||
|
||||
Mettre la partie bande de col sur la partie nœud, endroit contre endroit. Alignez les extrémités des deux parties. Maintenant coudre à travers les extrémités pour rejoindre les pièces.
|
||||
Put one of the Collar Band parts on one of the Bow parts, right sides together. Alignez les extrémités des deux parties. Maintenant coudre à travers les extrémités pour rejoindre les pièces.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Faites cela pour chaque extrémité sur les deux bandes de col.
|
||||
In a similar fashion, sew a second Bow part to the other end of the same Collar Band.
|
||||
|
||||
Repassez pour ouvrir toutes les coutures.
|
||||
Repeat these steps to sew the other 2 Bows to the other Collar Band.
|
||||
|
||||
Vous avez maintenant deux faces simples de nœud papillon.
|
||||
Press open all the seams.
|
||||
|
||||
You now have two identical single sided bow ties.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 3 : Assemblez les deux côtés
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Disposez les deux côtés que vous avez faits l'un sur l'autre, endroit contre endroit. Cousez tout le long du bord, mais laissez une ouverture de 5 cm au milieu de la bande de col. Grâce à cette ouverture, nous allons retourner l'ouvrage.
|
||||
Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all along the edges, but leave an area of 5 cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 4 : Retourner
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Entaillez la marge de couture aux endroits usuels et faites de petites coupes pour permettre des courbes lisses.
|
||||
Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for a smooth curves.
|
||||
|
||||
Utilisez ensuite le dos d'un crochet de grande taille, ou un autre objet fin et long, afin de retourner les deux côtés à travers la petite ouverture. Commencez par écarter doucement les deux pièces de tissu aux bouts du nœud. Ensuite poussez la fin du nœud entre les deux pièces de tissu. Continuez à pousser doucement pendant que vous tirez en coulissant sur le reste de l'ouvrage. Cette manœuvre peut être un peu fastidieuse. Prenez votre temps et soyez délicat. C'est facile de pousser trop fort et de déchirer les points ou le tissu.
|
||||
Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny object, to turn the two sides right-side-out through the little opening. Start by gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
Une fois notre ouvrage sur l'endroit, assurez-vous de pousser tous les coins et côtés avant de lui donner un bon coup de fer.
|
||||
Once you have the tie right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides out before giving it a good press.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 5 : Fermeture
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Maintenant tout ce qui reste à faire c'est de fermer le trou que nous avons utilisé pour retourner le nœud papillon. Vous pouvez le faire à la main avec un point de couture invisible. Ou vous pouvez utiliser la machine et coudre au point droit au bord de la bande (couture nervure). Puisque ce sera normalement caché par le col de votre chemise, ce ne sera pas très visible.
|
||||
Now all that is left is closing the little hole we used to turn the bow tie right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch. Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
|
||||
|
||||
Maintenant donnez-lui un dernier coup de fer et admirez votre travail.
|
||||
Now give it one last press and admire your work.
|
||||
|
||||
### Avec ruban d'ajustement
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 2 : Attacher le ruban
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
La première chose à faire est de coudre le ruban de réglage aux parties les plus courtes du nœud. Le ruban doit faire 290 mm de long. Si c'est différent, vous devez vous assurer de l'aligner de telle sorte que le ruban et la pièce courte du nœud ensemble sont aussi longs que la pièce longue du nœud.
|
||||
The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the Short Bow part. The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as the long bow piece.
|
||||
|
||||
Mettre la pièce courte du nœud face au ruban, endroit contre endroit.
|
||||
Put right sides of the Short Bow piece and the ribbon together.
|
||||
|
||||
Maintenant coudre à travers les extrémités pour rejoindre les pièces.
|
||||
Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 3 : Assemblez les deux côtés
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Poser les deux parties du nœud moyen l'une sur l'autre, endroit contre endroit. Et superposez la partie longue du nœud au-dessus du ruban et de la partie courte, toujours endroit contre endroit.
|
||||
Lay both of the Medium Bow parts on top of each other, right sides together.
|
||||
|
||||
Cousez tout le long, mais laissez les extrémités courtes ouvertes. Grâce à cette ouverture, nous allons retourner les deux parties de l'ouvrage.
|
||||
Sew all along the edges, but leave the short end open. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie part right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
Lay the Long Bow on top of the ribbon and Short Bow part, also right sides together.
|
||||
|
||||
Again, sew all along the edges, leaving the short end open.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 4 : Retourner
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Entaillez la marge de couture aux endroits usuels et faites de petites coupes pour permettre des courbes lisses.
|
||||
Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for a smooth curves.
|
||||
|
||||
Utilisez ensuite le dos d'un crochet de grande taille, ou un autre objet fin et long, afin de retourner les deux côtés à travers la petite ouverture. Commencez par écarter doucement les deux pièces de tissu aux bouts du nœud. Ensuite poussez la fin du nœud entre les deux pièces de tissu. Continuez à pousser doucement pendant que vous tirez en coulissant sur le reste de l'ouvrage. Cette manœuvre peut être un peu fastidieuse. Prenez votre temps et soyez délicat. C'est facile de pousser trop fort et de déchirer les points ou le tissu.
|
||||
Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny object, to turn the two parts right-side-out through the ends. Start by gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
Une fois notre ouvrage sur l'endroit, assurez-vous de pousser tous les coins et côtés avant de lui donner un bon coup de fer.
|
||||
Once you have the part right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides out before giving it a good press.
|
||||
|
||||
Répétez l'opération avec les deux parties.
|
||||
Do this with both parts.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 5 : Ajouter les accessoires d'ajustement
|
||||
|
||||
Maintenant, nous devons ajouter les deux pièces d'ajustement qui rendent la fixation réglable. La pièce ovale sera attachée à la pièce sans ruban d'ajustement. Et la pièce avec l'accessoire en forme de T ira sur la partie avec le ruban.
|
||||
Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable. The oval loop piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon. And, the piece with the T-hook will go on the part with the ribbon.
|
||||
|
||||
Faites d'abord la partie sans le ruban. En effet, le bout de tissu du ruban devra passer par la pièce ovale avant d'être cousue sur son accessoire. Si vous le faisiez dans l'ordre inverse, vous ne pourriez peut-être pas le passer.
|
||||
First do the part without the ribbon. This is because the fabric tail of the ribbon piece will have to go through the oval part before sewing on its hardware. If you would do it in the other sequence, you may not be able to feed it through.
|
||||
|
||||
Pour terminer les extrémités, nous allons plier le tissu en trois étapes :
|
||||
To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps, before sewing it in a fourth step:
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Tout d'abord, on plie le côté sous un angle. Puis nous plions la fin avec juste une petite marge de couture, quelque chose comme 5mm. Puis nous le plions à nouveau, pour environ 1 cm. Enfin on place l'anneau ovale sous ce dernier pli et on coud.
|
||||
1. First we fold the sides in at an angle.
|
||||
2. Then we fold the end over by just a small seam allowance, something like 5 mm.
|
||||
3. Then we fold it over again, for about 1 cm.
|
||||
4. Finally we stick the oval loop under this last fold and stitch across.
|
||||
|
||||
Maintenant, placez la pièce avec le ruban à travers la partie ovale et finissez-le de la même manière.
|
||||
Now feed the adjustment ribbon piece through the oval loop, and attach the T-hook to the end of the ribbon, sewing it in the same way.
|
||||
|
||||
Crochetez le T dans une des boucles d'ajustement et votre nœud papillon est terminé !
|
||||
Hook the T in one of the adjustment holes and your bow tie is done!
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ title: "Benjamin bow tie: Sewing Instructions"
|
|||
|
||||
### Precisie
|
||||
|
||||
Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precission with sewing is key to a good result. Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out. To get a great result I found it very helpful to trace the actual seam lines onto the interfacing and follow that while sewing.
|
||||
Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precision with sewing is key to a good result. Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out. To get a great result I found it very helpful to trace the actual seam lines onto the interfacing and follow that while sewing.
|
||||
|
||||
### Strijk wijs
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -25,11 +25,23 @@ page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
|
|||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Vlinderdas aanpassen met een lintje
|
||||
### Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware
|
||||
|
||||
This pattern allows you to make a bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck size. It can also make one that has a ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie adjustable to different neck sizes. This is useful if not all of your shirts have the same neck measurements, or if you sometimes like shirts with more ease in the neck.
|
||||
By default, this design makes a fixed-length bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck size. However, by enabling the Adjustment Ribbon option, it can also make a tie that uses an adjustment ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie adjustable to different neck sizes. This is useful if not all of your shirts have the same neck measurements, or if you sometimes like shirts with more ease in the neck.
|
||||
|
||||
These ribbons can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
|
||||
These adjustment ribbons and bow tie hardware can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
These instructions are for the type of adjustment ribbon that comes with
|
||||
holes at regular intervals, to be used in combination with two-piece
|
||||
hardware consisting of an oval loop part and a part with a smaller loop
|
||||
and attached T-shaped hook.
|
||||
|
||||
There are other styles of bow tie ribbons and hardware, but their use is
|
||||
outside the scope of these instructions.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Naadtoeslag
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -43,13 +55,15 @@ Apply interfacing to all parts where you feel it's needed.
|
|||
|
||||
### Zonder aanpaslintje
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stap 2: Naai de knoop aan de kraagband
|
||||
#### Step 2: Sew the bow to the collar band
|
||||
|
||||
Put the collar band part on the bow tie knot part, right sides together. Align the ends of both parts. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
Put one of the Collar Band parts on one of the Bow parts, right sides together. Align the ends of both parts. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Do this for each end on both collar bands.
|
||||
In a similar fashion, sew a second Bow part to the other end of the same Collar Band.
|
||||
|
||||
Repeat these steps to sew the other 2 Bows to the other Collar Band.
|
||||
|
||||
Press open all the seams.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -59,7 +73,7 @@ You now have two identical single sided bow ties.
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all along, but leaving an area of 5cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
|
||||
Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all along the edges, but leave an area of 5 cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stap 4: Keren
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -75,7 +89,7 @@ Once you have the tie right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sid
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Now all that is left is closing the litle hole we used to turn the bow tie right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch. Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
|
||||
Now all that is left is closing the little hole we used to turn the bow tie right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch. Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
|
||||
|
||||
Now give it one last press and admire your work.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -85,9 +99,9 @@ Now give it one last press and admire your work.
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the shortest of the bow parts. The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as the long bow piece.
|
||||
The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the Short Bow part. The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as the long bow piece.
|
||||
|
||||
Put right sides of the short bow piece and the ribbon together.
|
||||
Put right sides of the Short Bow piece and the ribbon together.
|
||||
|
||||
Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -95,9 +109,13 @@ Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Lay both the parts of the medium bow on top of each other, right sides together. And lay the long bow on top of the ribbon and short bow part, also rights sides together.
|
||||
Lay both of the Medium Bow parts on top of each other, right sides together.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew all along, but leave the short ends open. Through these openings we will turn the bow tie parts right side out.
|
||||
Sew all along the edges, but leave the short end open. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie part right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
Lay the Long Bow on top of the ribbon and Short Bow part, also right sides together.
|
||||
|
||||
Again, sew all along the edges, leaving the short end open.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stap 4: Keren
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -113,17 +131,20 @@ Do this with both parts.
|
|||
|
||||
#### Stap 5: Voeg hardware toe
|
||||
|
||||
Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable. The oval looking piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon. And the piece with the T shaped attachment will go on the part with the ribbon.
|
||||
Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable. The oval loop piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon. And, the piece with the T-hook will go on the part with the ribbon.
|
||||
|
||||
First do the part without the ribbon. This is because the fabric tail of the ribbon piece will have to go through the oval part before sewing on its hardware. If you would do it in the other sequence, you may not be able to feed it through.
|
||||
|
||||
To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps:
|
||||
To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps, before sewing it in a fourth step:
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
First we fold the side in under an angle. Then we fold the end over by just a small seam allowance, something like 5mm. Then we fold it over again, for about 1cm. Finally we stick the oval ring under this last fold and stitch across.
|
||||
1. First we fold the sides in at an angle.
|
||||
2. Then we fold the end over by just a small seam allowance, something like 5 mm.
|
||||
3. Then we fold it over again, for about 1 cm.
|
||||
4. Finally we stick the oval loop under this last fold and stitch across.
|
||||
|
||||
Now feed the ribbon piece through the oval part and finish it the same way.
|
||||
Now feed the adjustment ribbon piece through the oval loop, and attach the T-hook to the end of the ribbon, sewing it in the same way.
|
||||
|
||||
Hook the T in one of the adjustment holes and your bow tie is done!
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ title: "Benjamin bow tie: Sewing Instructions"
|
|||
|
||||
### Precision
|
||||
|
||||
Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precission with sewing is key to a good result. Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out. To get a great result I found it very helpful to trace the actual seam lines onto the interfacing and follow that while sewing.
|
||||
Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precision with sewing is key to a good result. Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out. To get a great result I found it very helpful to trace the actual seam lines onto the interfacing and follow that while sewing.
|
||||
|
||||
### Press wisely
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -25,11 +25,23 @@ page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
|
|||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Bow tie adjustment ribbon
|
||||
### Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware
|
||||
|
||||
This pattern allows you to make a bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck size. It can also make one that has a ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie adjustable to different neck sizes. This is useful if not all of your shirts have the same neck measurements, or if you sometimes like shirts with more ease in the neck.
|
||||
By default, this design makes a fixed-length bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck size. However, by enabling the Adjustment Ribbon option, it can also make a tie that uses an adjustment ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie adjustable to different neck sizes. This is useful if not all of your shirts have the same neck measurements, or if you sometimes like shirts with more ease in the neck.
|
||||
|
||||
These ribbons can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
|
||||
These adjustment ribbons and bow tie hardware can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
These instructions are for the type of adjustment ribbon that comes with
|
||||
holes at regular intervals, to be used in combination with two-piece
|
||||
hardware consisting of an oval loop part and a part with a smaller loop
|
||||
and attached T-shaped hook.
|
||||
|
||||
There are other styles of bow tie ribbons and hardware, but their use is
|
||||
outside the scope of these instructions.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Припуск на шов
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -43,13 +55,15 @@ Apply interfacing to all parts where you feel it's needed.
|
|||
|
||||
### Without adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 2: Sew the knot to the collar band
|
||||
#### Step 2: Sew the bow to the collar band
|
||||
|
||||
Put the collar band part on the bow tie knot part, right sides together. Align the ends of both parts. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
Put one of the Collar Band parts on one of the Bow parts, right sides together. Align the ends of both parts. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Do this for each end on both collar bands.
|
||||
In a similar fashion, sew a second Bow part to the other end of the same Collar Band.
|
||||
|
||||
Repeat these steps to sew the other 2 Bows to the other Collar Band.
|
||||
|
||||
Press open all the seams.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -59,7 +73,7 @@ You now have two identical single sided bow ties.
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all along, but leaving an area of 5cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
|
||||
Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all along the edges, but leave an area of 5 cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 4: Turning
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -75,7 +89,7 @@ Once you have the tie right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sid
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Now all that is left is closing the litle hole we used to turn the bow tie right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch. Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
|
||||
Now all that is left is closing the little hole we used to turn the bow tie right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch. Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
|
||||
|
||||
Now give it one last press and admire your work.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -85,9 +99,9 @@ Now give it one last press and admire your work.
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the shortest of the bow parts. The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as the long bow piece.
|
||||
The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the Short Bow part. The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as the long bow piece.
|
||||
|
||||
Put right sides of the short bow piece and the ribbon together.
|
||||
Put right sides of the Short Bow piece and the ribbon together.
|
||||
|
||||
Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -95,9 +109,13 @@ Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Lay both the parts of the medium bow on top of each other, right sides together. And lay the long bow on top of the ribbon and short bow part, also rights sides together.
|
||||
Lay both of the Medium Bow parts on top of each other, right sides together.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew all along, but leave the short ends open. Through these openings we will turn the bow tie parts right side out.
|
||||
Sew all along the edges, but leave the short end open. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie part right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
Lay the Long Bow on top of the ribbon and Short Bow part, also right sides together.
|
||||
|
||||
Again, sew all along the edges, leaving the short end open.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 4: Turning
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -113,17 +131,20 @@ Do this with both parts.
|
|||
|
||||
#### Step 5: Add hardware
|
||||
|
||||
Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable. The oval looking piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon. And the piece with the T shaped attachment will go on the part with the ribbon.
|
||||
Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable. The oval loop piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon. And, the piece with the T-hook will go on the part with the ribbon.
|
||||
|
||||
First do the part without the ribbon. This is because the fabric tail of the ribbon piece will have to go through the oval part before sewing on its hardware. If you would do it in the other sequence, you may not be able to feed it through.
|
||||
|
||||
To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps:
|
||||
To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps, before sewing it in a fourth step:
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
First we fold the side in under an angle. Then we fold the end over by just a small seam allowance, something like 5mm. Then we fold it over again, for about 1cm. Finally we stick the oval ring under this last fold and stitch across.
|
||||
1. First we fold the sides in at an angle.
|
||||
2. Then we fold the end over by just a small seam allowance, something like 5 mm.
|
||||
3. Then we fold it over again, for about 1 cm.
|
||||
4. Finally we stick the oval loop under this last fold and stitch across.
|
||||
|
||||
Now feed the ribbon piece through the oval part and finish it the same way.
|
||||
Now feed the adjustment ribbon piece through the oval loop, and attach the T-hook to the end of the ribbon, sewing it in the same way.
|
||||
|
||||
Hook the T in one of the adjustment holes and your bow tie is done!
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -4,9 +4,9 @@ titre: "Bloc corporel de Bent : Instructions de couture"
|
|||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Bent is a block, not a pattern
|
||||
###### Bent est un bloc, pas un motif
|
||||
|
||||
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
|
||||
Un bloc est une forme de base sur laquelle se basent d'autres motifs.
|
||||
Ils sont parfois aussi appelés patrons de base, bien que les puristes soutiennent qu'un bloc et un patron de base sont des choses différentes.
|
||||
|
||||
Les blocs ne sont généralement pas réalisés tels quels mais servent plutôt de base à d'autres modèles. Les instructions ci-dessous n'abordent donc pas en détail les fermetures ou les finitions et concernent le bloc Bent par défaut.
|
||||
|
|
@ -58,28 +58,28 @@ Il est parfois nécessaire de porter la maquette pendant un certain temps pour a
|
|||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
N'oubliez pas de considérer Bent comme une base plutôt que comme un produit final, et ajustez donc ce dont vous avez besoin pour obtenir l'aspect désiré.
|
||||
For instance:
|
||||
Par exemple :
|
||||
|
||||
- Change the neck line
|
||||
- Add/change the closure allowances
|
||||
- Alter the hem style
|
||||
- Add a collar
|
||||
- Modifier la ligne d'encolure
|
||||
- Ajouter/modifier les marges de fermeture
|
||||
- Modifier le style de l'ourlet
|
||||
- Ajouter un col
|
||||
|
||||
It is all up to you! Expérimentez et allez-y !
|
||||
Tout dépend de vous ! Expérimentez et allez-y !
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Étape 3 : Créer un modèle en papier
|
||||
|
||||
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
|
||||
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
|
||||
- Une fois que vous êtes satisfait de toutes vos modifications, retirer les épingles de votre maquette et créez un modèle de papier à partir de celle-ci.
|
||||
- Vous disposez à présent d'un modèle que vous pouvez utiliser pour produire un vêtement.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.
|
||||
Si vous avez effectué des modifications, il est préférable de créer un modèle en papier à partir de la maquette, car cela vous permettra de nettoyer les lignes et de disposer d'un modèle à partir duquel vous pourrez continuer à produire des vêtements.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Bent is a block, looking for a finalised pattern?
|
||||
### Bent est un bloc, à la recherche d'un modèle finalisé ?
|
||||
|
||||
> Here are some of the patterns based on Bent: [Carlton](/patterns/carlton), [Carlita](/patterns/carlita), and [Jaeger](/patterns/jaeger).
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
title: "Bent body Block: Required Measurements"
|
||||
titre : "Bloc de corps pour Bent : Mesures requises"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='bent' />
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ To make Bent, you will need the following:
|
|||
- Fourniture de base pour la couture
|
||||
- About 1.5 - 2 metres (1.7 - 2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bent Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bent/fabric/))
|
||||
|
||||
This list is for a default Bent Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.
|
||||
This list is for a default Bent Block. Si vous avez apporté des modifications au bloc, vous devrez peut-être vous procurer des éléments supplémentaires tels que des fermetures, des reliures, etc.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
title: "Across back factor"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
|
||||
Contrôle la largeur de votre dos en fonction de la mesure d'épaule à épaule
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
titre : "Facteur de profondeur d'emmanchure"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
This controls the depth of the armhole, which in turn influences the sleevecap width.
|
||||
Cela permet de contrôler la profondeur de l'emmanchure qui, à son tour, influence la largeur de la manchette.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
titre : "Aisance aux biceps"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
This option controls the ease at your upper arm/biceps.
|
||||
Cette option permet de contrôler l'aisance au niveau de la partie supérieure du bras/biceps.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
titre : "aisance thoracique"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
The amount of ease at your chest.
|
||||
L'aisance au niveau de la poitrine.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
titre: "Aisance du col"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
The amount of ease at your neck/collar.
|
||||
L'aisance au niveau du cou/col.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
titre: "aisance de manche"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
The amount of ease at your cuff/wrist.
|
||||
L'aisance au niveau du poignet.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
title: "Bent body Block: Design Options"
|
||||
titre : "Bloc de corps Bent : Options de conception"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternOptions pattern='bent' />
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,11 +2,11 @@
|
|||
titre : "Découpe supplémentaire à l'avant de l'emmanchure
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
How much the armhole is cut out deeper at the front, than the back.
|
||||
De quelle différence la profondeur de l'emmanchure est plus importante sur le devant que sur le dos.
|
||||
|
||||
Because a shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body than the back, the front of the armhole cuts deeper into the chest than the back cuts into the back part.
|
||||
|
||||
This options controls by how much.
|
||||
Cette option permet de déterminer de combien.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
titre : "Longueur supplémentaire"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
This option controls how far the block extend below your hips.
|
||||
Cette option permet de contrôler jusqu'à quel point le bloc se prolonge sous vos hanches.
|
||||
|
||||
> Notez que par défaut, ce bloc est aussi long que ta ligne de hanche, qui est presque certainement trop courte pour le vêtement final.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
titre : "Aisance d'épaule"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
The amount of ease across the shoulders. When making a coat or jacket, you want to foresee more ease so one can wear layers under the coat/jacket.
|
||||
La quantité d'aisance entre les épaules. When making a coat or jacket, you want to foresee more ease so one can wear layers under the coat/jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,9 +2,9 @@
|
|||
titre : "Réduction de la pente d'épaule"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
This pattern adapts to sloped shoulder by taking the shoulder slope measurment into account.
|
||||
Ce patron s'adapte à la pente d'épaule en tenant compte de la mesure de la pente des épaules.
|
||||
|
||||
However, for jackets or coats, you may want to create more room at the shoulders to allow for shoulder pads. This option lets you create extra room at the shoulders by reducing the amount the shoulders are sloped.
|
||||
Toutefois, pour les vestes ou les manteaux, il peut être nécessaire de créer plus d'espace au niveau des épaules pour permettre l'ajout d'épaulettes. Cette option vous permet de créer de la place supplémentaire sur les épaules en réduisant la pente des épaules.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
titre : "Pli de manche"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
The angle by which the sleeve bends at the elbow.
|
||||
L'angle par lequel la manche se plie au coude.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
title: "Sleevecap ease"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
How much sleevecap ease do you want?
|
||||
Combien d'aisance aux têtes de manches voulez-vous ?
|
||||
|
||||
> #### ###### Pour quoi faire ?
|
||||
>
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,14 +2,14 @@
|
|||
titre : "Surlongueur de longueur de manche"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
The amount to extend the sleeve beyond the length of the sleeve in the base block.
|
||||
La quantité pour allonger la manche au-delà de la longueur de la manche dans le bloc de base.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
#### This is not supposed to be zero
|
||||
#### Cette valeur n'est pas censée être nulle
|
||||
|
||||
Setting this to zero will make the sleeve length the same as the base length of the Bent block,
|
||||
which is certainly too short for a coat.
|
||||
En mettant cette valeur à zéro, la longueur de la manche sera la même que la longueur de base du bloc Bent,
|
||||
ce qui est certainement trop court pour un manteau.
|
||||
Veuillez prendre note de la valeur par défaut et utiliser cela comme base pour allonger ou raccourcir la manche.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -1,18 +1,18 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
title: "Breanna body block: Cutting Instructions"
|
||||
titre : "Bloc de corps Breanna : Instructions de coupe"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
**Tissu principal**
|
||||
|
||||
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
|
||||
- Cut **2 Back** parts.
|
||||
- Couper **2 parties** arrières.
|
||||
- Cut **2 Sleeve** parts, _good sides together_.
|
||||
|
||||
These cutting instructions are just for the default Breanna block. Ajustez votre coupe en conséquence si vous avez apporté des modifications au bloc.
|
||||
Ces instructions de coupe ne concernent que le bloc Breanna par défaut. Ajustez votre coupe en conséquence si vous avez apporté des modifications au bloc.
|
||||
|
||||
<Tip>
|
||||
|
||||
If you do not have someone to help pin you into Breanna then you may find it easier to Cut 2 Front parts with seam allowance and sew the backs up when constructing so you can pin in the front.
|
||||
Si vous n'avez personne pour vous aider à épingler Breanna, vous trouverez peut-être plus facile de couper deux parties du devant avec une marge de couture et de coudre l'arrière lors de la construction afin de pouvoir épingler le devant.
|
||||
|
||||
</Tip>
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -1,10 +1,10 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
title: "Breanna body block: Fabric Options"
|
||||
titre : "Bloc de corps pour Breanna : Options de tissu"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
If you are making a default Breanna to see how it fits we recommend a fabric such as **Calico (Muslin)** or a cheaper fabric that matches the drape and stretch of the fabric you intend to make a finalised version of Breanna with.
|
||||
Si vous réalisez un Breanna par défaut pour voir comment il vous va, nous vous recommandons d'utiliser un tissu tel que le **Calico (Mousseline)** ou un tissu moins cher qui correspond au drapé et à l'élasticité du tissu avec lequel vous avez l'intention de réaliser la version finale du Breanna.
|
||||
|
||||
You can use scraps of fabrics from your stash so don't worry about buying fabric specifically for Breanna.
|
||||
Tu peux utiliser des chutes de tissus de ta réserve, alors ne t'inquiète pas d'acheter du tissu spécialement pour Breanna.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
title: "Breanna body block"
|
||||
titre : "Bloc de corps pour Breanna"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternDocs pattern='breanna' />
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
title: "Breanna body block: Sewing Instructions"
|
||||
titre : "Bloc de corps pour Breanna : Instructions de couture"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
|
@ -9,7 +9,7 @@ title: "Breanna body block: Sewing Instructions"
|
|||
Un bloc est une forme de bas sur laquelle d'autres patrons sont basés.
|
||||
Ils sont parfois aussi appelés patrons de base, bien que les puristes soutiennent qu'un bloc et un patron de base sont des choses différentes.
|
||||
|
||||
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns so the instructions below will not go in depth about closures or finishes and are for the default Breanna block.
|
||||
Les blocs ne sont généralement pas réalisés tels quels mais servent plutôt de base à d'autres modèles. Les instructions ci-dessous n'abordent donc pas en détail les fermetures ou les finitions et concernent le bloc Breanna par défaut.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -19,7 +19,7 @@ Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patter
|
|||
- Fermer les fléchettes arrière.
|
||||
- Sew the front to the backs at the shoulders good sides together.
|
||||
- Matching notches, sew the sleeves to the shoulder good sides together.
|
||||
- Sew the side seams _good sides together_.
|
||||
- Coudre les coutures latérales _bon côté ensemble_.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -35,15 +35,15 @@ If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams wrong sides together
|
|||
|
||||
### Étape 2 : Essayez-le
|
||||
|
||||
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
|
||||
- Essayez-le et vérifiez la coupe en épinglant le dos tout en le portant.
|
||||
- Apportez les modifications nécessaires et essayez à nouveau le vêtement.
|
||||
- Répétez l'opération jusqu'à ce que vous soyez satisfait.
|
||||
|
||||
<Tip>
|
||||
|
||||
If you do not have someone to help with pinning, you may find it easier to cut the front part in two with seam allowance rather than on a fold and sew the back seam up so that you can pin in the front when trying on.
|
||||
Si vous n'avez personne pour vous aider à épingler, vous trouverez peut-être plus facile de couper le devant en deux avec la marge de couture plutôt que sur un pli et de coudre la couture du dos pour pouvoir épingler le devant.
|
||||
|
||||
Keep an eye out for anything you keep doing whilst wearing the mock-up, are you pulling it down? Ajuster constamment l'épaule ? ect... Ces éléments sont des signes indiquant que le modèle doit être ajusté.
|
||||
Soyez attentif à tout ce que vous faites en portant la maquette : la tirez-vous vers le bas ? Ajuster constamment l'épaule ? ect... Ces éléments sont des signes indiquant que le modèle doit être ajusté.
|
||||
|
||||
Il est parfois nécessaire de porter la maquette pendant un certain temps pour avoir une meilleure idée de la coupe, alors n'hésitez pas à vous promener avec pendant quelques heures.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -51,25 +51,25 @@ Il est parfois nécessaire de porter la maquette pendant un certain temps pour a
|
|||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
Remember to treat Breanna as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look.
|
||||
For instance:
|
||||
N'oubliez pas de considérer Breanna comme une base plutôt que comme un produit final, et ajustez donc ce dont vous avez besoin pour obtenir l'apparence souhaitée.
|
||||
Par exemple :
|
||||
|
||||
- Change the neck line
|
||||
- Add/change the closure allowances
|
||||
- Alter the dart placements
|
||||
- Add a collar
|
||||
- Modifier la ligne d'encolure
|
||||
- Ajouter/modifier les marges de fermeture
|
||||
- Modifier l'emplacement des pinces
|
||||
- Ajouter un col
|
||||
|
||||
It is all up to you! Expérimentez et allez-y !
|
||||
Tout dépend de vous ! Expérimentez et allez-y !
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Étape 3 : Créer un modèle en papier
|
||||
|
||||
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
|
||||
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
|
||||
- Une fois que vous êtes satisfait de toutes vos modifications, retirer les épingles de votre maquette et créez un modèle de papier à partir de celle-ci.
|
||||
- Vous disposez à présent d'un modèle que vous pouvez utiliser pour produire un vêtement.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.
|
||||
Si vous avez effectué des modifications, il est préférable de créer un modèle en papier à partir de la maquette, car cela vous permettra de nettoyer les lignes et de disposer d'un modèle à partir duquel vous pourrez continuer à produire des vêtements.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
title: "Breanna body block: Required Measurements"
|
||||
titre: "Bloc de corps de Breanna: Mesures requises"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='breanna' />
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -1,13 +1,13 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
title: "Breanna body block: What You Need"
|
||||
tirle: "Bloc de corps de Breanna: Ce dont tu as besoin"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
To make Breanna, you will need the following:
|
||||
Pour préparer Breanna, vous aurez besoin des éléments suivants :
|
||||
|
||||
- Fourniture de base pour la couture
|
||||
- About 1.25 - 1.5 metres (1.4 - 1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Breanna Fabric options](/docs/patterns/Breanna/fabric/))
|
||||
- Environ 1,25 à 1,5 mètre d'un tissu approprié ([voir les options de tissu Breanna](/docs/patterns/Breanna/fabric/))
|
||||
|
||||
This list is for a default Breanna Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.
|
||||
Cette liste est pour un le Block Breanna par défaut. Si vous avez apporté des modifications au bloc, vous devrez peut-être vous procurer des éléments supplémentaires tels que des fermetures, des reliures, etc.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
title: "Across back factor"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
|
||||
Contrôle la largeur de votre dos en fonction de la mesure d'épaule à épaule
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -1,18 +1,18 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
title: "Breanna body block: Design Options"
|
||||
titre: "Bloc de corps pour Breanna : Options de conception"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternOptions pattern='breanna' />
|
||||
|
||||
## Comprendre la tête de manche
|
||||
|
||||
The Breanna sleevecap was designed to be adaptable into different types of sleeves and garments. As a result, the sleevecap alone has 20 options to control its shape. Whereas that may seem a bit overwhelming at first, understanding how the sleevecap is drafted makes it easy to understand what all the individual options do.
|
||||
Le chapeau de manche Breanna a été conçu pour être adapté à différents types de manches et de vêtements. Par conséquent, le chapeau de manche à lui seul dispose de 20 options pour contrôler sa forme. Whereas that may seem a bit overwhelming at first, understanding how the sleevecap is drafted makes it easy to understand what all the individual options do.
|
||||
|
||||
### La bounding box (boîte englobante)
|
||||
|
||||
The _bounding box_ of the sleevecap is a rectangle that is as wide as the sleeve, and as high as the sleevecap. Inside this box, we will construct our sleevecap later.
|
||||
The _bounding box_ of the sleevecap is a rectangle that is as wide as the sleeve, and as high as the sleevecap. La tête de manche va être construite dans ce rectangle.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The image above shows a sleevecap, starting at point 1, then going up until point 4, and then down again to point 2.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -22,17 +22,17 @@ The image above shows a sleevecap, starting at point 1, then going up until poin
|
|||
|
||||
Dans notre exemple, le devant de la manche est à droite. Mais comment le sait-on ?
|
||||
|
||||
Alors que les patrons l'indiquent généralement par des repères (une seule encoche pour le devant, une double encoche pour l'arrière), on peut aussi repérer où se trouve le devant d'une tête de manche par sa forme plus courbe. La partie de la tête de manche qui sera placée à l'arrière est de forme plus aplatie. That's because the human shoulder
|
||||
is more pronounced and curved on the front of the body, thus the sleevecap is more curved
|
||||
there to fit the shoulder.
|
||||
Alors que les patrons l'indiquent généralement par des repères (une seule encoche pour le devant, une double encoche pour l'arrière), on peut aussi repérer où se trouve le devant d'une tête de manche par sa forme plus courbe. La partie de la tête de manche qui sera placée à l'arrière est de forme plus aplatie. C'est parce que l'épaule humaine
|
||||
est plus prononcée et plus incurvée sur le devant du corps, ce qui fait que l'embout de manche est plus incurvé
|
||||
pour s'adapter à l'épaule.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
The width of the sleevecap (and thus the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the armhole) is equal to the distance between points 1 and 2. That distance depends on the measurements of the model, the amount of ease, the cut of the garment and so on. For our sleevecap, all we need to know is that we start with a given width. And while that width can be influenced by other factors, we can not influence it by any of the sleevecap options.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The height of the sleevecap is equal to the distance between points 3 and 4. The exact height is a trade-off between the measurments of the model, options, ease, sleevecap ease, and the fact that the sleeve ultimately has to fit the armhole. So the height may vary, and we don't control the exact value. But there are two options that control the shape of our sleevecap:
|
||||
La hauteur de la tête de manche est égale à la distance entre les points 3 et 4. The exact height is a trade-off between the measurments of the model, options, ease, sleevecap ease, and the fact that the sleeve ultimately has to fit the armhole. So the height may vary, and we don't control the exact value. Mais deux options permettent de contrôler la forme de notre tête de manche :
|
||||
|
||||
- [Haut de tête de manche X](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecaptopfactorx/) : Contrôle la position horizontale des points 3 et 4
|
||||
- [Haut de tête de manche Y](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecaptopfactory/) : Contrôle la position verticale du point 4
|
||||
|
|
@ -41,9 +41,9 @@ In other words, point 4 can be made higher and lower and, perhaps less intutitiv
|
|||
|
||||
### Les points d'inflexion
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
With points 1, 2, 3, and 4 in place, we have a box to draw our sleevecap in. Now it's time to map out our _inflection points_. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement is determined by the following 4 options:
|
||||
Avec les points 1, 2, 3 et 4 en place, nous avons un rectangle pour dessiner notre tête de manche. Now it's time to map out our _inflection points_. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement is determined by the following 4 options:
|
||||
|
||||
- [Haut de tête de manche arrière X](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Contrôle la position horizontale du point 5
|
||||
- [Haut de tête de manche arrière Y](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Contrôle la position verticale du point 5
|
||||
|
|
@ -60,9 +60,9 @@ Comme vous le voyez dans notre exemple, ces points ne se trouvent pas toujours s
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Ultimately, our sleevecap will be the combination of 5 curves. In addition to points 1 and 2, the four _anchor points_ that are marked in orange in our example will be the start/finish of those curves.
|
||||
En fin de compte, notre tête de manche sera la combinaison de 5 courbes. In addition to points 1 and 2, the four _anchor points_ that are marked in orange in our example will be the start/finish of those curves.
|
||||
|
||||
The points are _offset_ perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points surrounding them. The offset for each point is controlled by these 4 options:
|
||||
The points are _offset_ perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points surrounding them. Le décalage pour chaque point est contrôlé par ces 4 options :
|
||||
|
||||
- [Décalage de tête de manche Q1](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq1offset) : contrôle le décalage perpendiculaire à la ligne située entre les points 2 et 6
|
||||
- [Décalage de tête de manche Q2](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq2offset) : contrôle le décalage perpendiculaire à la ligne située entre les points 6 et 4
|
||||
|
|
@ -74,8 +74,7 @@ The points are _offset_ perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two
|
|||
Notre manche est divisée en 4 quadrants. Nous commençons à l'avant (à droite dans notre exemple)
|
||||
avec le quadrant 1, en allant vers l'arrière pour finir avec le quatrième quadrant.
|
||||
|
||||
Like the offset option, the last options to determine the shape of our sleevecap will just repeat so you can
|
||||
control each quarter individually.
|
||||
Comme l'option d'offset, les dernières options pour déterminer la forme de notre tête de manche vont se répéter pour que vous puissiez contrôler chaque quartier individuellement.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -83,7 +82,7 @@ control each quarter individually.
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Nous disposons maintenant de tous les points de départ et d'arrivée pour dessiner les 5 courbes qui constitueront nos capuchons de manche. What we're missing are the control points (see [our info on Bézier curves](https://freesewing.dev/concepts/beziercurves) to learn more about how curves are constructed). These are determined by the so-called _spread_.
|
||||
Nous disposons maintenant de tous les points de départ et d'arrivée pour dessiner les 5 courbes qui constitueront nos capuchons de manche. What we're missing are the control points (see [our info on Bézier curves](https://freesewing.dev/concepts/beziercurves) to learn more about how curves are constructed). Celles-ci sont déterminées par ce que l'on appelle _répartition_.
|
||||
|
||||
For each of the anchor points (the ones marked in orange, not points 1 and 2) there is an option to control the spread upwards, and downwards:
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -111,4 +110,4 @@ While the sleevecap in Breanna (and all patterns that extend Breanna) have a lot
|
|||
- Ensuite, utilisez le décalage pour contrôler la pente de la courbe
|
||||
- Enfin, utilisez la répartition pour homogénéiser le tout
|
||||
|
||||
What's important to remember is that you're only ever controlling the shape of the sleevecap. Whatever shape you design, it will be fitted to the armhole, meaning that its size can and will be adapted to make sure the sleeve fits the armscye. Toutefois, la forme que vous avez conçue sera toujours respectée.
|
||||
Il faut comprendre qu'on ne peut contrôler que la forme de la tête de manche. Whatever shape you design, it will be fitted to the armhole, meaning that its size can and will be adapted to make sure the sleeve fits the armscye. Toutefois, la forme que vous avez conçue sera toujours respectée.
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -1,11 +1,11 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
title: "Brian body block: Cutting Instructions"
|
||||
titre: "Bloc de corps pour Brian : Instructions de coupe"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
**Tissu principal**
|
||||
|
||||
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
|
||||
- Cut **1 Back** part on the fold.
|
||||
- Couper **1 partie avant** dans le pli.
|
||||
- Coupez **1 partie arrière** sur le pli.
|
||||
- Couper **2 pièces** de manche.
|
||||
|
||||
Ces instructions de coupe ne concernent que le bloc Brian par défaut. Ajustez votre coupe en conséquence si vous avez apporté des modifications au bloc.
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -1,10 +1,10 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
title: "Brian body block: Fabric Options"
|
||||
titre : "Bloc de corps pour Brian : Options de tissu"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
If you are making a default Brian to see how it fits we recommend a fabric such as **Calico (Muslin)** or a cheaper fabric that matches the drape and stretch of the fabric you intend to make a finalised version of Brian with.
|
||||
Si vous réalisez un Brian par défaut pour voir comment il s'adapte, nous vous recommandons d'utiliser un tissu tel que le **Calico (Mousseline)** ou un tissu moins cher qui correspond au drapé et à l'élasticité du tissu avec lequel vous avez l'intention de réaliser la version finale du Brian.
|
||||
|
||||
You can use scraps of fabrics from your stash so don't worry about buying fabric specifically for Brian.
|
||||
Vous pouvez utiliser des chutes de tissus de votre réserve. Ne vous souciez donc pas d'acheter du tissu spécialement pour Brian.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -9,7 +9,7 @@ title : "Brian body block : Instructions de couture"
|
|||
Un patron de base est une forme basique de laquelle on part pour créer d'autres patrons.
|
||||
Ils sont parfois aussi appelés patrons de base, bien que les puristes soutiennent qu'un bloc et un patron de base sont des choses différentes.
|
||||
|
||||
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns so the instructions below will not go in depth about closures or finishes and are for the default Brian block.
|
||||
Les blocs ne sont généralement pas réalisés tels quels mais servent plutôt de base à d'autres modèles. Les instructions ci-dessous n'abordent donc pas en détail les fermetures ou les finitions et concernent le bloc Brian par défaut.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -33,15 +33,15 @@ If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams wrong sides together
|
|||
|
||||
### Étape 2 : Essayez-le
|
||||
|
||||
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
|
||||
- Essayez-le et vérifiez la coupe en épinglant le dos tout en le portant.
|
||||
- Apportez les modifications nécessaires et essayez à nouveau le vêtement.
|
||||
- Répétez l'opération jusqu'à ce que vous soyez satisfait.
|
||||
|
||||
<Tip>
|
||||
|
||||
If you do not have someone to help with pinning, you may find it easier to cut the front part in two with seam allowance rather than on a fold and sew the back seam up so that you can pin in the front when trying on.
|
||||
Si vous n'avez personne pour vous aider à épingler, vous trouverez peut-être plus facile de couper le devant en deux avec la marge de couture plutôt que sur un pli et de coudre la couture du dos pour pouvoir épingler le devant.
|
||||
|
||||
Keep an eye out for anything you keep doing whilst wearing the mock-up, are you pulling it down? Ajuster constamment l'épaule ? ect... Ces éléments sont des signes indiquant que le modèle doit être ajusté.
|
||||
Soyez attentif à tout ce que vous faites en portant la maquette : la tirez-vous vers le bas ? Ajuster constamment l'épaule ? ect... Ces éléments sont des signes indiquant que le modèle doit être ajusté.
|
||||
|
||||
Il est parfois nécessaire de porter la maquette pendant un certain temps pour avoir une meilleure idée de la coupe, alors n'hésitez pas à vous promener avec pendant quelques heures.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -62,11 +62,11 @@ It is all up to you! Expérimentez et allez-y !
|
|||
|
||||
### Étape 3 : Créer un modèle en papier
|
||||
|
||||
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
|
||||
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
|
||||
- Une fois que vous êtes satisfait de toutes vos modifications, retirer les épingles de votre maquette et créez un modèle de papier à partir de celle-ci.
|
||||
- Vous disposez à présent d'un modèle que vous pouvez utiliser pour produire un vêtement.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.
|
||||
Si vous avez effectué des modifications, il est préférable de créer un modèle en papier à partir de la maquette, car cela vous permettra de nettoyer les lignes et de disposer d'un modèle à partir duquel vous pourrez continuer à produire des vêtements.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ To make Brian, you will need the following:
|
|||
- Fourniture de base pour la couture
|
||||
- About 1.25 - 1.5 metres (1.4 - 1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Brian Fabric options](/docs/patterns/brian/fabric/))
|
||||
|
||||
This list is for a default Brian Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.
|
||||
This list is for a default Brian Block. Si vous avez apporté des modifications au bloc, vous devrez peut-être vous procurer des éléments supplémentaires tels que des fermetures, des reliures, etc.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ title: "Across back factor"
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
|
||||
Contrôle la largeur de votre dos en fonction de la mesure d'épaule à épaule
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ titre : "Longueur supplémentaire"
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
This option controls how far the block extend below your hips.
|
||||
Cette option permet de contrôler jusqu'à quel point le bloc se prolonge sous vos hanches.
|
||||
|
||||
> Notez que par défaut, ce bloc est aussi long que ta ligne de hanche, qui est presque certainement trop courte pour le vêtement final.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ title: "Across back factor"
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
|
||||
Contrôle la largeur de votre dos en fonction de la mesure d'épaule à épaule
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ titre : "Facteur de profondeur d'emmanchure"
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
This controls the depth of the armhole, which in turn influences the sleevecap width.
|
||||
Cela permet de contrôler la profondeur de l'emmanchure qui, à son tour, influence la largeur de la manchette.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ titre : "aisance thoracique"
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The amount of ease at your chest.
|
||||
L'aisance au niveau de la poitrine.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ titre: "aisance de manche"
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The amount of ease at your cuff/wrist.
|
||||
L'aisance au niveau du poignet.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ title: "Across back factor"
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
|
||||
Contrôle la largeur de votre dos en fonction de la mesure d'épaule à épaule
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ titre : "Facteur de profondeur d'emmanchure"
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
This controls the depth of the armhole, which in turn influences the sleevecap width.
|
||||
Cela permet de contrôler la profondeur de l'emmanchure qui, à son tour, influence la largeur de la manchette.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ titre : "aisance thoracique"
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The amount of ease at your chest.
|
||||
L'aisance au niveau de la poitrine.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ titre: "aisance de manche"
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The amount of ease at your cuff/wrist.
|
||||
L'aisance au niveau du poignet.
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
title: "Across back factor"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
|
||||
Contrôle la largeur de votre dos en fonction de la mesure d'épaule à épaule
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
title: "Across back factor"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
|
||||
Contrôle la largeur de votre dos en fonction de la mesure d'épaule à épaule
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
title: "Across back factor"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
|
||||
Contrôle la largeur de votre dos en fonction de la mesure d'épaule à épaule
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -46,9 +46,9 @@ If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams wrong sides together
|
|||
|
||||
<Tip>
|
||||
|
||||
If you do not have someone to help with pinning, you may find it easier to cut the front part in two with seam allowance rather than on a fold and sew the back seam up so that you can pin in the front when trying on.
|
||||
Si vous n'avez personne pour vous aider à épingler, vous trouverez peut-être plus facile de couper le devant en deux avec la marge de couture plutôt que sur un pli et de coudre la couture du dos pour pouvoir épingler le devant.
|
||||
|
||||
Keep an eye out for anything you keep doing whilst wearing the mock-up, are you pulling it down? Ajuster constamment l'épaule ? ect... Ces éléments sont des signes indiquant que le modèle doit être ajusté.
|
||||
Soyez attentif à tout ce que vous faites en portant la maquette : la tirez-vous vers le bas ? Ajuster constamment l'épaule ? ect... Ces éléments sont des signes indiquant que le modèle doit être ajusté.
|
||||
|
||||
Il est parfois nécessaire de porter la maquette pendant un certain temps pour avoir une meilleure idée de la coupe, alors n'hésitez pas à vous promener avec pendant quelques heures.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -73,11 +73,11 @@ It is all up to you! Expérimentez et allez-y !
|
|||
|
||||
### Étape 3 : Créer un modèle en papier
|
||||
|
||||
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
|
||||
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
|
||||
- Une fois que vous êtes satisfait de toutes vos modifications, retirer les épingles de votre maquette et créez un modèle de papier à partir de celle-ci.
|
||||
- Vous disposez à présent d'un modèle que vous pouvez utiliser pour produire un vêtement.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.
|
||||
Si vous avez effectué des modifications, il est préférable de créer un modèle en papier à partir de la maquette, car cela vous permettra de nettoyer les lignes et de disposer d'un modèle à partir duquel vous pourrez continuer à produire des vêtements.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ To make Noble, you will need the following:
|
|||
- Matériel de couture de base
|
||||
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Noble Fabric options](/docs/patterns/noble/fabric/))
|
||||
|
||||
This list is for a default Noble Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.
|
||||
This list is for a default Noble Block. Si vous avez apporté des modifications au bloc, vous devrez peut-être vous procurer des éléments supplémentaires tels que des fermetures, des reliures, etc.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
title: "Across back factor"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
|
||||
Contrôle la largeur de votre dos en fonction de la mesure d'épaule à épaule
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -42,7 +42,7 @@ If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams wrong sides together
|
|||
|
||||
<Tip>
|
||||
|
||||
Keep an eye out for anything you keep doing whilst wearing the mock-up, are you pulling it down? Ajuster constamment l'épaule ? ect... Ces éléments sont des signes indiquant que le modèle doit être ajusté.
|
||||
Soyez attentif à tout ce que vous faites en portant la maquette : la tirez-vous vers le bas ? Ajuster constamment l'épaule ? ect... Ces éléments sont des signes indiquant que le modèle doit être ajusté.
|
||||
|
||||
Il est parfois nécessaire de porter la maquette pendant un certain temps pour avoir une meilleure idée de la coupe, alors n'hésitez pas à vous promener avec pendant quelques heures.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -74,11 +74,11 @@ It is all up to you! Expérimentez et allez-y !
|
|||
|
||||
### Étape 3 : Créer un modèle en papier
|
||||
|
||||
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
|
||||
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
|
||||
- Une fois que vous êtes satisfait de toutes vos modifications, retirer les épingles de votre maquette et créez un modèle de papier à partir de celle-ci.
|
||||
- Vous disposez à présent d'un modèle que vous pouvez utiliser pour produire un vêtement.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.
|
||||
Si vous avez effectué des modifications, il est préférable de créer un modèle en papier à partir de la maquette, car cela vous permettra de nettoyer les lignes et de disposer d'un modèle à partir duquel vous pourrez continuer à produire des vêtements.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
|
|||
title: "Across back factor"
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
|
||||
Contrôle la largeur de votre dos en fonction de la mesure d'épaule à épaule
|
||||
|
||||
## Effet de cette option sur le patron
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
Loading…
Add table
Add a link
Reference in a new issue