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Joost De Cock 2022-02-19 08:08:58 +01:00 committed by Nick Dower
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@ -5,21 +5,23 @@ title: Holmschneiden
The **gore** pattern piece needs to be cut on the fold to create a whole piece.
### Materialien
- **Oberstoff**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- Schneiden Sie **4 Ohrteile** oder schneiden Sie **2 Ohr** von Haupt und Lining.
- Cut **4 bill** parts
- **Futterstoff**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- **Bill Insert Material**
- Cut **2 bill inserts**. Use your bill pattern piece with no seam allowance.
- **Oberstoff**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- Schneiden Sie **4 Ohrteile** oder schneiden Sie **2 Ohr** von Haupt und Lining.
- Cut **4 bill** parts
- **Futterstoff**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- **Bill Insert Material**
- Cut **2 bill inserts**. Use your bill pattern piece with no seam allowance.
### Optionale Stoffbinden
Wenn du kein Band für deine Verbindungen verwenden möchtest, kannst du sie aus dem Stoff herstellen. Schneiden Sie einfach 4 Crosskornstreifen von einem 1" (2. cm) oder Breite Ihrer Wahl + Nahtzustände breit und nähen zwei Röhren, so dass eine der kurzen Seiten offen zum Drehen ist. Clicken Sie die Ecken und schneiden Sie Nähte. Stelle einen Druck aus. Wenn gewünscht, können Sie ***Edgestitch*** oder ***Topstich*** die Röhren, um den Stoff vom Umschalten zu stoppen. Der rohe Rand der Rohre kann dann beim Bau der Ohrklappen in der Ohrklappe versteckt werden.
<Note>
Es wird empfohlen, das Musternetz zu entwerfen und das Muster zu verwenden, um die Nahtlinien auf Stoff zu verfolgen und die Nahtzuweisung auf den Stoff statt auf das Muster zu setzen. Dies ermöglicht eine präzisere Nähung, die für einen Hut benötigt wird. Recommended seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) on the sides of the gores, ear flaps and outer curve of the bills. 1/2" (1.3cm) for the bottom of the gores, ear flaps and inner curve of the bills. Mit diesen Nahtzuweisungen müssen Sie die Zulagen nicht abschneiden, wenn Sie es nicht wollen.
Es wird empfohlen, das Musternetz zu entwerfen und das Muster zu verwenden, um die Nahtlinien auf Stoff zu verfolgen und die Nahtzuweisung auf den Stoff statt auf das Muster zu setzen. Dies ermöglicht eine präzisere Nähung, die für einen Hut benötigt wird. Recommended seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) on the sides of the gores, ear flaps and outer curve of the bills. 1/2" (1.3cm) for the bottom of the gores, ear flaps and inner curve of the bills. Mit diesen Nahtzuweisungen müssen Sie die Zulagen nicht abschneiden, wenn Sie es nicht wollen.
</Note>
<Warning>

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@ -1,24 +1,27 @@
---
title: Holmes Cutting
---
The **crown** pattern piece needs to be cut on the fold to create a whole piece.
### Materials
- **Main fabric**
- Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options
- Cut **4 ear** parts or Cut **2 ear** from main and lining.
- Cut **4 visor** parts
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options
- **Visor Insert Material**
- Cut **2 visor inserts**. Use your visor pattern piece with no seam allowance.
- **Main fabric**
- Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options
- Cut **4 ear** parts or Cut **2 ear** from main and lining.
- Cut **4 visor** parts
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options
- **Visor Insert Material**
- Cut **2 visor inserts**. Use your visor pattern piece with no seam allowance.
### Optional Fabric Ties
If you don't wish to use ribbon for your ties you can make them out of fabric. Simply cut 4 crossgrain strips of an 1" (2.5cm) or width of your choosen + seam allowances wide and sew two tubes leaving one of the short sides open for turning. Clip the corners and trim seams. Turn out an press. If desired you can ***Edgestitch*** or ***Topstitch*** the tubes to stop the fabric from shifting. The raw edge of the tubes can then be concealed in the ear flap seam when constructing the ear flaps.
<Note>
It is recommended to draft the pattern nett and use the pattern to trace the seam lines onto fabric and add the seam allowance on the fabric rather than the pattern. This to allow for a more precise sew which is needed for a hat. Recommended seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) on the sides of the crowns, ear flaps and outer curve of the visors. 1/2" (1.3cm) for the bottom of the crowns, ear flaps and inner curve of the visors. With these seam allowances you will not have to trim the allowances if you do not want to.
It is recommended to draft the pattern nett and use the pattern to trace the seam lines onto fabric and add the seam allowance on the fabric rather than the pattern. This to allow for a more precise sew which is needed for a hat. Recommended seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) on the sides of the crowns, ear flaps and outer curve of the visors. 1/2" (1.3cm) for the bottom of the crowns, ear flaps and inner curve of the visors. With these seam allowances you will not have to trim the allowances if you do not want to.
</Note>
<Warning>

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@ -5,21 +5,23 @@ title: Corte de Holmes
The **gore** pattern piece needs to be cut on the fold to create a whole piece.
### Materiales
- **Tela principal**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- Corta **4 partes** del oído o corta **del oído** del principal y del revestimiento.
- Cut **4 bill** parts
- **Tela fina**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- **Bill Insert Material**
- Cut **2 bill inserts**. Use your bill pattern piece with no seam allowance.
- **Tela principal**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- Corta **4 partes** del oído o corta **del oído** del principal y del revestimiento.
- Cut **4 bill** parts
- **Tela fina**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- **Bill Insert Material**
- Cut **2 bill inserts**. Use your bill pattern piece with no seam allowance.
### Telas opcionales
Si no desea utilizar cinta para sus corbatas, puede fabricarlas a partir de tejidos. Basta con cortar 4 tiras de grano cruzado de un 1" (2. cm) o anchura de su elección + franquicias de costura de ancho y coser dos tubos dejando uno de los lados cortos abiertos para girar. Recorta las esquinas y recorta las costuras. Apagar una prensa. Si lo desea, puede ***Edgestión*** o ***Topstitch*** los tubos para detener el desplazamiento de la tela. El borde en bruto de las válvulas puede entonces ocultarse en la costura de la tapa, cuando se construyen las tapas de los oídos.
<Note>
Se recomienda dibujar la red de patrones y utilizar el patrón para rastrear las líneas de costura en el tejido y añadir la franquicia de costura en el tejido en lugar del patrón. Esto para permitir una coser más precisa que se necesita para un sombrero. Recommended seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) on the sides of the gores, ear flaps and outer curve of the bills. 1/2" (1.3cm) for the bottom of the gores, ear flaps and inner curve of the bills. Con estos permisos de costura no tendrá que recortar las cuotas si no lo desea.
Se recomienda dibujar la red de patrones y utilizar el patrón para rastrear las líneas de costura en el tejido y añadir la franquicia de costura en el tejido en lugar del patrón. Esto para permitir una coser más precisa que se necesita para un sombrero. Recommended seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) on the sides of the gores, ear flaps and outer curve of the bills. 1/2" (1.3cm) for the bottom of the gores, ear flaps and inner curve of the bills. Con estos permisos de costura no tendrá que recortar las cuotas si no lo desea.
</Note>
<Warning>

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@ -5,21 +5,23 @@ title: Coupage des creux
The **gore** pattern piece needs to be cut on the fold to create a whole piece.
### Matériaux
- **Tissu principal**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- Coupez **4 parties** d'oreilles ou coupez **2 oreilles** de la partie principale et de la doublure.
- Cut **4 bill** parts
- **Tissu de doublure**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- **Bill Insert Material**
- Cut **2 bill inserts**. Use your bill pattern piece with no seam allowance.
- **Tissu principal**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- Coupez **4 parties** d'oreilles ou coupez **2 oreilles** de la partie principale et de la doublure.
- Cut **4 bill** parts
- **Tissu de doublure**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- **Bill Insert Material**
- Cut **2 bill inserts**. Use your bill pattern piece with no seam allowance.
### Morceaux de tissu optionnels
Si vous ne souhaitez pas utiliser de ruban pour vos cravates, vous pouvez les fabriquer en tissu. Coupez simplement 4 bandes de grains croisés d'un 1" (2. cm) ou la largeur de votre choix + couture large et coudre deux tubes laissant un des côtés courts ouverts pour tourner. Couper les coins et couper les coutures. Détruit une presse. Si vous le souhaitez, vous pouvez ***Edgestitch*** ou ***Topstitch*** les tubes pour empêcher le tissu de se déplacer. Le bord brut des tubes peut ensuite être dissimulé dans la couture de rabat de l'oreille lors de la construction des clapets de l'oreille.
<Note>
Il est recommandé de tracer le filet du patron et d'utiliser le motif pour tracer les lignes de couture sur le tissu et ajouter la marge de couture sur le tissu plutôt que sur le patron. Ceci pour permettre une couture plus précise qui est nécessaire pour un chapeau. Recommended seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) on the sides of the gores, ear flaps and outer curve of the bills. 1/2" (1.3cm) for the bottom of the gores, ear flaps and inner curve of the bills. Avec ces indemnités de couture, vous n'aurez pas à couper les quotas si vous ne le voulez pas.
Il est recommandé de tracer le filet du patron et d'utiliser le motif pour tracer les lignes de couture sur le tissu et ajouter la marge de couture sur le tissu plutôt que sur le patron. Ceci pour permettre une couture plus précise qui est nécessaire pour un chapeau. Recommended seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) on the sides of the gores, ear flaps and outer curve of the bills. 1/2" (1.3cm) for the bottom of the gores, ear flaps and inner curve of the bills. Avec ces indemnités de couture, vous n'aurez pas à couper les quotas si vous ne le voulez pas.
</Note>
<Warning>

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@ -5,21 +5,23 @@ title: Holmes Knippen
Het **kroon** patroonstuk moet geknipt worden aan de stofvouw om een heel stuk te maken.
### Materialen
- **Buitenstof**
- Knip het aantal **kronen** dat je geselecteerd hebt in de patroonopties
- Knip **4 oor** delen of knip **2 oor** van het hoofdstuk en de voering.
- Knip **4 bezoeker** onderdelen
- **Voering**
- Knip het aantal **kronen** dat je geselecteerd hebt in de patroonopties
- **Visor Insert Material**
- Knip **2 bezoekersinvoegingen**. Gebruik je patroondeel zonder naadwaarde.
- **Buitenstof**
- Knip het aantal **kronen** dat je geselecteerd hebt in de patroonopties
- Knip **4 oor** delen of knip **2 oor** van het hoofdstuk en de voering.
- Knip **4 bezoeker** onderdelen
- **Voering**
- Knip het aantal **kronen** dat je geselecteerd hebt in de patroonopties
- **Visor Insert Material**
- Knip **2 bezoekersinvoegingen**. Gebruik je patroondeel zonder naadwaarde.
### Optionele Stoffen
Als je geen lint wilt gebruiken voor je dassen kan je ze uit stof maken. Knip 4 kruisgraan strips van een 1" (2. cm) of breedte van jouw keuze + naadwaarde breed en stik twee buizen die één van de korte kanten open laten om te draaien. Knip de hoeken en naad bij. Draai een pers uit. Indien gewenst kan je ***Sektch*** of ***Sierstiksel*** de buizen om te voorkomen dat de stof verschuift. De rauwe rand van de buizen kan dan verborgen worden in de oordnaad bij het maken van de oorflakken.
<Note>
Het wordt aangeraden om het patroondeel nett te tekenen en het patroon te gebruiken om de naadlijnen op de stof te traceren en de naadwaarde aan de stof toe te voegen in plaats van het patroon. Dit om een nauwkeurigere naad mogelijk te maken die nodig is voor een hoed. Aanbevolen naadwaarde 1/4" (6 mm) aan de zijkanten van de kroonen, oorvlakken en buitenste curve van de bezoekers. 1/2" (1,3cm) voor de onderkant van de kroon, oorvlakken en de binnenste curve van de bezoekers. Met deze naadtoeslagen hoef je de vergoedingen niet te verlagen als je dat niet wil.
Het wordt aangeraden om het patroondeel nett te tekenen en het patroon te gebruiken om de naadlijnen op de stof te traceren en de naadwaarde aan de stof toe te voegen in plaats van het patroon. Dit om een nauwkeurigere naad mogelijk te maken die nodig is voor een hoed. Aanbevolen naadwaarde 1/4" (6 mm) aan de zijkanten van de kroonen, oorvlakken en buitenste curve van de bezoekers. 1/2" (1,3cm) voor de onderkant van de kroon, oorvlakken en de binnenste curve van de bezoekers. Met deze naadtoeslagen hoef je de vergoedingen niet te verlagen als je dat niet wil.
</Note>
<Warning>

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@ -1,8 +1,7 @@
- - -
- - -
***
***
<YouTube id='H24VBFMZJF4' />
<PatternDocs pattern='holmes' />

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@ -4,5 +4,3 @@
<YouTube id='H24VBFMZJF4' />
<PatternDocs pattern='holmes' />

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@ -1,8 +1,7 @@
- - -
- - -
***
***
<YouTube id='H24VBFMZJF4' />
<PatternDocs pattern='holmes' />

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@ -3,21 +3,23 @@ title: Optionen für Holmes Stoff
---
### Hauptstoff
Für den Hauptstoff deines Hutes Ein dicker Stoff wird am besten funktionieren, um die Form zu halten, aber wenn du einen leichteren Stoff suchen möchtest, kannst du ihn so einstellen, dass er mehr Körper erhält. Normalerweise möchten Sie **Wolle** mit Beschichtungsgewicht verwenden, aber Sie können mit verschiedenen Gewichten und Stoffen mit der entsprechenden Schnittstelle experimentieren.
<Note>
Für den Hauptstoff deines Hutes Ein dicker Stoff wird am besten funktionieren, um die Form zu halten, aber wenn du einen leichteren Stoff suchen möchtest, kannst du ihn so einstellen, dass er mehr Körper erhält. Normalerweise möchten Sie **Wolle** mit Beschichtungsgewicht verwenden, aber Sie können mit verschiedenen Gewichten und Stoffen mit der entsprechenden Schnittstelle experimentieren. <Note>
Eine lustige Sache zu versuchen, ist die Baumwolle. Verdoppeln Sie einfach den Hauptstoff, so dass jedes Stück ist doppelte Dicke. Then interface it with a **Medium Firm Interfacing**.
</Note>
### Bindegewebe
Im Allgemeinen wollen Sie einen leichten Stoff wie **Seiden** oder **Baumwolle** , aber wirklich können Sie ihn aus jedem Stoff, den Sie für das Futter für geeignet halten, herstellen. Denken Sie nur daran, dass es zum Schutz des Gesichts und der wichtigsten Stoff vor Ihrem Kopf.
### Einlage
Abhängig von der Dicke Ihres Stoffes und wie gut er seine Form beibehält, können Sie die Oberfläche Ihres Stoffes anpassen. Wenn du nicht sicher bist, ob dein Stoff Schnittstellen benötigt, schnell ***Baste*** Ihre Kronen Stücke zusammen und sehen, ob die Krone rechts bleibt, wenn sie auf einer Oberfläche platziert wird. Wenn es keine Schnittstelle braucht. Als Faustregel benötigen Sie im Allgemeinen eine **mittlere Firm-Schnittstelle** aber wenn Ihr Stoff ziemlich dünn ist, benötigen Sie vielleicht eine festere Schnittstelle. Wenn du noch unsicher bist, kannst du deine Kronenstücke sehen und erneut ***Baste*** die Kronenstücke zusammen und schaue, wie es auf deinem Kopf aussieht. Sie können entweder fusible oder nicht fusible Schnittstellen verwenden. Wenn Sie eine nicht fusible Schnittstelle verwenden, möchten Sie die Schnittstelle zu Ihren Stücken mit temporären **flachen*Stitches einfügen***.
<Note>
If you are trying to make a more Historical Holmes you can use **Tarlatan** which is a lightweight stiffened muslin. Vergewissern Sie sich, dass Sie natürliche Fasern verwenden.
</Note>
@ -27,7 +29,7 @@ If you are trying to make a more Historical Holmes you can use **Tarlatan** whic
For the bill insert you want a firm but thin material. Sie können auch versuchen **Millinery Buckram**, **Plastik Leinwand**, **Kunststoffplatten** oder **EVA Schaum**. You can use **Leather** just know that depending on depth this may create a thicker bill and may make the bill harder to close.
<Note>
Denken Sie daran. All dies sind Empfehlungen. Wenn Sie etwas anderes verwenden wollen, gehen Sie dafür ein!
</Note>

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@ -1,32 +1,35 @@
---
title: Holmes Fabric options
---
### Main Fabric
For the main fabric of your hat, a thick fabric will work best to hold the shape but if you wanna go for a lighter fabric you can interface it to give it more body. Generally you want to use **Wools** of coating weight but you can experiment with different weights and fabrics with the relevant interfacing.
<Note>
A fun thing to try is printed cotton. Just double up the main fabric so each piece is double thickness. Then interface it with a __Medium Firm Interfacing__.
For the main fabric of your hat, a thick fabric will work best to hold the shape but if you wanna go for a lighter fabric you can interface it to give it more body. Generally you want to use **Wools** of coating weight but you can experiment with different weights and fabrics with the relevant interfacing. <Note>
A fun thing to try is printed cotton. Just double up the main fabric so each piece is double thickness. Then interface it with a **Medium Firm Interfacing**.
</Note>
### Lining Fabric
Generally you want a lightweight fabric such as **Silks** or **Cotton Lawn** but really you can make it from any fabric you deem appropriate for lining. Just remember it needs to protect the facing and the main fabric from your head.
### Interfacing
Depending on your main fabric's thickness and how well it keeps its shape you may need to interface your fabric. If you are uncertain of whether your fabric requires interfacing, quickly ***Baste*** your crown pieces together and see if the crown stays up right when placed on a surface. If it doesn't it needs interfacing. As a rule of thumb you will generally need a **Medium Firm Interfacing** but if your fabric is quite thin you may need a firmer interfacing. If you are still uncertain you can face your crown pieces and once again ***Baste*** the crown pieces together and check how it looks on your head. You can either use fusible or non-fusible interfacing. If using non-fusible interfacing you will want to flat line the interfacing to your pieces wih temporary ***Pad Stitches***.
Depending on your main fabric's thickness and how well it keeps its shape you may need to interface your fabric. If you are uncertain of whether your fabric requires interfacing, quickly ***Baste*** your crown pieces together and see if the crown stays up right when placed on a surface. If it doesn't it needs interfacing. As a rule of thumb you will generally need a **Medium Firm Interfacing** but if your fabric is quite thin you may need a firmer interfacing. If you are still uncertain you can face your crown pieces and once again ***Baste*** the crown pieces together and check how it looks on your head. You can either use fusible or non-fusible interfacing. If using non-fusible interfacing you will want to flat line the interfacing to your pieces wih temporary ***Pad Stitches***.
<Note>
If you are trying to make a more Historical Holmes you can use __Tarlatan__ which is a lightweight stiffened muslin. Just make sure you use natural fibres.
If you are trying to make a more Historical Holmes you can use **Tarlatan** which is a lightweight stiffened muslin. Just make sure you use natural fibres.
</Note>
### Visor Insert
For the visor insert you want a firm but thin material. You may want to try either, **Millinery Buckram**, **Plastic Canvas**, **Plastic Sheets** or **EVA Foam**. You can use **Leather** just know that depending on depth this may create a thicker visor and may make the visor harder to close.
For the visor insert you want a firm but thin material. You may want to try either, **Millinery Buckram**, **Plastic Canvas**, **Plastic Sheets** or **EVA Foam**. You can use **Leather** just know that depending on depth this may create a thicker visor and may make the visor harder to close.
<Note>
Just remember. All of these are recommendations. If you want to use something different go for it!
</Note>

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@ -3,21 +3,23 @@ title: Opciones de tela de Holmes
---
### Tela principal
Para la tela principal de tu sombrero, un tejido grueso funcionará mejor para mantener la forma, pero si quieres ir por una tela más ligera puedes interactuar para darle más cuerpo. Generalmente quieres usar **Lanas** de peso de recubrimiento, pero puedes experimentar con diferentes pesos y tejidos con la interfaz relevante.
<Note>
Para la tela principal de tu sombrero, un tejido grueso funcionará mejor para mantener la forma, pero si quieres ir por una tela más ligera puedes interactuar para darle más cuerpo. Generalmente quieres usar **Lanas** de peso de recubrimiento, pero puedes experimentar con diferentes pesos y tejidos con la interfaz relevante. <Note>
Una cosa divertida para probar es el algodón impreso. Simplemente doblar la tela principal para que cada pieza sea de doble espesor. Then interface it with a **Medium Firm Interfacing**.
</Note>
### Tela fina
Generalmente quieres una tela ligera como **seda** o **alambre de algodón** pero realmente puedes hacerlo desde cualquier tela que consideres apropiada para el forraje. Simplemente recuerde que necesita para proteger el rostro y el tejido principal de su cabeza.
### Interfaz
Dependiendo del espesor de su tela principal y de lo bien que mantiene su forma puede que necesite para interconectar su tejido. Si no estás seguro de si tu tela requiere interfaces, rápidamente ***Baste*** sus coronas juntas y compruebe si la corona se mantiene arriba cuando se coloca sobre una superficie. Si no necesita interfaz. Como regla general, generalmente necesitarás una interfaz de **empresa media** pero si tu tejido es bastante delgado, puede que necesites una interfaz más firme. Si aún no estás seguro, puedes enfrentarte a tus piezas de corona y volver a ***Bastar*** las piezas de la corona juntas y comprobar cómo se ve en tu cabeza. Usted puede usar interfaces fusibles o no fusibles. Si usas una interfaz no fusible querrás planificar la interfaz con tus piezas por medio de un tiempo ***Pad Stitches***.
<Note>
If you are trying to make a more Historical Holmes you can use **Tarlatan** which is a lightweight stiffened muslin. Simplemente asegúrese de usar fibras naturales.
</Note>
@ -27,7 +29,7 @@ If you are trying to make a more Historical Holmes you can use **Tarlatan** whic
For the bill insert you want a firm but thin material. Puede que quieras probar, **Buckram de Milinería**, **Lona de plástico**, **Hojas de plástico** o **Espuma EVA**. You can use **Leather** just know that depending on depth this may create a thicker bill and may make the bill harder to close.
<Note>
Recuerden. Todas ellas son recomendaciones. Si quieres usar algo diferente, ¡ve por ello!
</Note>

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@ -3,21 +3,23 @@ title: Options de l'étoffe des Holmes
---
### Tissu principal
Pour le tissu principal de votre chapeau, un tissu épais fonctionnera mieux pour tenir la forme, mais si vous voulez aller pour un tissu plus léger, vous pouvez l'interfacer pour lui donner plus de corps. Généralement, vous voulez utiliser **laines** de poids de revêtement mais vous pouvez expérimenter avec différents poids et tissus avec l'interface pertinente.
<Note>
Pour le tissu principal de votre chapeau, un tissu épais fonctionnera mieux pour tenir la forme, mais si vous voulez aller pour un tissu plus léger, vous pouvez l'interfacer pour lui donner plus de corps. Généralement, vous voulez utiliser **laines** de poids de revêtement mais vous pouvez expérimenter avec différents poids et tissus avec l'interface pertinente. <Note>
Une chose amusante à essayer est le coton imprimé. Il suffit de doubler le tissu principal pour que chaque pièce soit en double épaisseur. Then interface it with a **Medium Firm Interfacing**.
</Note>
### Tissu de rangement
Généralement, vous voulez un tissu léger tel que **Soies** ou **Plaine de Coton** mais vous pouvez vraiment le faire à partir de n'importe quel tissu que vous jugez approprié pour le revêtement. Rappelez-vous qu'il a besoin de protéger le visage et le tissu principal de votre tête.
### Entoilage
Selon l'épaisseur de votre tissu principal et la façon dont il conserve sa forme, vous devrez peut-être interfacer votre tissu. Si vous n'êtes pas certain que votre tissu nécessite une interfacation, rapidement ***Baste*** vos pièces de couronne ensemble et voyez si la couronne reste debout lorsqu'elle est placée sur une surface. Si elle ne le fait pas, elle a besoin d'une interface. En règle générale, vous aurez besoin d'une **Interface-entreprise moyenne** mais si votre tissu est assez mince, vous aurez peut-être besoin d'une interface plus ferme. Si vous n'êtes toujours pas certain, vous pouvez faire face à vos pièces de couronne et une fois de plus ***Baste*** les pièces de la couronne ensemble et vérifier son apparence sur votre tête. Vous pouvez utiliser une interface fusible ou non fusibles. Si vous utilisez une interfaçage non fusible vous voudrez aplanir la ligne de l'interfaçage à vos pièces wih temporaire ***Pad Stitches***.
<Note>
If you are trying to make a more Historical Holmes you can use **Tarlatan** which is a lightweight stiffened muslin. Assurez-vous d'utiliser des fibres naturelles.
</Note>
@ -27,7 +29,7 @@ If you are trying to make a more Historical Holmes you can use **Tarlatan** whic
For the bill insert you want a firm but thin material. Vous pouvez essayer aussi **Millinery Buckram**, **Plastic Canvas**, **Feuilles plastiques** ou **Mousse EVA**. You can use **Leather** just know that depending on depth this may create a thicker bill and may make the bill harder to close.
<Note>
Rappelez-vous. Toutes ces recommandations sont des recommandations. Si vous voulez utiliser quelque chose de différent, allez !
</Note>

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@ -3,22 +3,24 @@ title: Holmes Stoffen opties
---
### Hoofd stof
Voor de buitenstof van je hoed, een dikke stof werkt het beste om de vorm vast te houden, maar als je wilt gaan voor een lichtere stof, kan je hem ook gebruiken om hem meer lichaam te geven. Over het algemeen wil je **Wools** gebruiken van coating gewicht, maar je kunt experimenteren met verschillende gewichten en stoffen met de relevante interfacing.
<Note>
Een leuk ding om te proberen is katoen bedrukt. Gewoon de hoofdstof verdubbelen, zodat elk stuk een dubbele dikte is. Neem vervolgens contact op met een __Medium Firm Interfacing__.
Voor de buitenstof van je hoed, een dikke stof werkt het beste om de vorm vast te houden, maar als je wilt gaan voor een lichtere stof, kan je hem ook gebruiken om hem meer lichaam te geven. Over het algemeen wil je **Wools** gebruiken van coating gewicht, maar je kunt experimenteren met verschillende gewichten en stoffen met de relevante interfacing. <Note>
Een leuk ding om te proberen is katoen bedrukt. Gewoon de hoofdstof verdubbelen, zodat elk stuk een dubbele dikte is. Neem vervolgens contact op met een **Medium Firm Interfacing**.
</Note>
### Voetstof
Over het algemeen wil je een lichtgewicht stof zoals **zijpanden** of **Cotton Lawn** maar echt dat je het van elke stof kan maken die je geschikt acht voor de voering. Denk er gewoon aan dat het het beleg en de belangrijkste stof moet beschermen tegen je hoofd.
### Tussenvoering
Afhankelijk van de dikte van je hoofdstof en hoe goed het de vorm behoudt die je nodig hebt om je stof te integreren. Als je onzeker bent of je stof tussenvoering vereist, snel ***Drieg*** je kroondelen samen en kijk of de kroon rechts blijft staan wanneer hij op een ondergrond geplaatst is. Als het geen tussenvoering nodig heeft. Als vuistregel heb je over het algemeen een **Medium Firm Interfacing** nodig, maar als je stof vrij dun is, heb je misschien een steviger tussenvoering nodig. Als je nog steeds onzeker bent, kun je je kroondelen tegemoet zien en weer ***Drieg*** de kroondelen samen en kijk hoe het eruitziet op je hoofd. Je kunt ofwel fusibele of niet-fusibele tussenvoering gebruiken. Als je een niet-fusibele tussenvoering gebruikt, wil je de tussenvoering plat leggen aan je stukken tijdelijke ***Pad Stitches***.
<Note>
Als je probeert om een hogere Historische Holmes te maken kun je __Tarlatan__ gebruiken, wat een lichtgewicht stijlvolle spiraal is. Zorg ervoor dat u natuurlijke vezels gebruikt.
Als je probeert om een hogere Historische Holmes te maken kun je **Tarlatan** gebruiken, wat een lichtgewicht stijlvolle spiraal is. Zorg ervoor dat u natuurlijke vezels gebruikt.
</Note>
@ -27,7 +29,7 @@ Als je probeert om een hogere Historische Holmes te maken kun je __Tarlatan__ ge
Voor de bezoeker wil je een firma maar weinig materiaal. Je kunt het ook proberen, **Millinery Buckram**, **Plastic Canvas**, **Plastic platen** or **EVA Foam**. U kunt **leren** gebruiken om te weten dat dit afhankelijk van de diepte een bezoeker kan maken en de bezoeker moeilijker te sluiten kan maken.
<Note>
Vergeet het niet. Dit zijn allemaal aanbevelingen. Als je iets anders wilt gebruiken, ga dan ervoor!
</Note>

View file

@ -1,8 +1,7 @@
- - -
- - -
***
***
<YouTube id='H24VBFMZJF4' />
<PatternDocs pattern='holmes' />

View file

@ -4,19 +4,19 @@ title: Holmes-Bau
### Schritt 1: Vorbereitung der Teile
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. Dies ist für eine präzisere Nähte, die für den Hutbau entscheidend ist.
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. Dies ist für eine präzisere Nähte, die für den Hutbau entscheidend ist.
<Tip>
Die Markierung des Threads erlaubt es, die Nahtlinie sowohl auf der rechten als auch auf der falschen Seite zu sehen.
</Tip>
<Note>
Selbst wenn man sich der Krone gegenübersieht, möchte man den Ohrklappen vielleicht nicht zuschauen, wenn man möchte, dass sie beim Anschließen weniger starr sind.
</Note>
<Warning>
@ -27,55 +27,55 @@ Diese Anweisungen gehen davon aus, dass Sie Ihre Nahtlinien markiert haben. Sie
### Schritt 2: Die Krone
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
- Press seams open. Sie mussten dafür einen Schneider-Schinken verwenden, wenn Sie keinen Schinken haben, können Sie stattdessen Flannels oder Handtücher verwenden.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- Wiederhole dies, bis du zwei Hälften hast. Wenn die Hälfte der Anzahl der Kronenstücke eine ungerade Zahl ist, müssen Sie zu jeder Hälfte ein einzelnes Stück nähen. z.B. Wenn Sie 6 Kronen haben, machen Sie zwei Hälften von 3 Nähen ein Stück zu zwei zusammengenähten Stücken.
- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. Sie können den Gipfel vielleicht leichter zusammen handnähen durch Schüttgut oder Präzision. Diese Naht wird als "Mittelkronennaht" bezeichnet.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
- Press seams open. Sie mussten dafür einen Schneider-Schinken verwenden, wenn Sie keinen Schinken haben, können Sie stattdessen Flannels oder Handtücher verwenden.
- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- Wiederhole dies, bis du zwei Hälften hast. Wenn die Hälfte der Anzahl der Kronenstücke eine ungerade Zahl ist, müssen Sie zu jeder Hälfte ein einzelnes Stück nähen. z.B. Wenn Sie 6 Kronen haben, machen Sie zwei Hälften von 3 Nähen ein Stück zu zwei zusammengenähten Stücken.
- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. Sie können den Gipfel vielleicht leichter zusammen handnähen durch Schüttgut oder Präzision. Diese Naht wird als "Mittelkronennaht" bezeichnet.
- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
<Note>
Je nach Zulage der Naht können Sie Nähte schneiden wollen, während Sie gehen, um die Menge zu reduzieren.
</Note>
### Schritt 3: Die Ohrenklappen
#### Ohrklappen mit Binden
- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. Diese werden als weitere Bindungen bezeichnet werden.
- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Wiederholen für andere Krawatte.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. Diese werden als weitere Bindungen bezeichnet werden.
- *Baste* a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Wiederholen für andere Krawatte.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *edgestitch* the folded edge.
- *Baste* the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
<Tip>
If you are uncertain about the length you want for you ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut in half. Verwenden Sie diese Hälften als die Verbindungen in den obigen Anweisungen. Die Bindungen sind am Ende fertig, so dass Sie die Längen dann anpassen können.
</Tip>
<Note>
Die oben genannten Längen sind Empfehlungen, so fühlen Sie sich frei zu gehen so lange oder so kurz wie Sie wollen mit den Krawatten.
If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/) for more info.
Die oben genannten Längen sind Empfehlungen, so fühlen Sie sich frei zu gehen so lange oder so kurz wie Sie wollen mit den Krawatten.\
If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/) for more info.
</Note>
#### Ohrklappen mit Tastenlöchern
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (Dies wird nicht benötigt, wenn bereits zwei Klappen interfaced wurden.)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (Dies wird nicht benötigt, wenn bereits zwei Klappen interfaced wurden.)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* the folded edge.
- *Baste* the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
<Warning>
@ -85,9 +85,9 @@ Die Ohrklappen müssen lang genug sein, um über die Spitze zu gehen, so dass si
<Note>
**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes**
**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes**
It is recommended to at least _topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
It is recommended to at least *topstitch* the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
</Note>
@ -97,14 +97,14 @@ There are two methods for constructing the bill. This is due to the different ty
#### The Bill Method 1
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary *pad Stitches*. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
- *Baste* along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, *baste* the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
<Warning>
@ -114,19 +114,19 @@ Seien Sie vorsichtig mit der Hitze eines Eisens, wenn Sie bestimmte Beilagen ver
<Note>
If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Vergewissern Sie sich, dass es Ihren Hutgewebe nicht beschädigt, wenn Sie ihn entfernen oder anwenden.
If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Vergewissern Sie sich, dass es Ihren Hutgewebe nicht beschädigt, wenn Sie ihn entfernen oder anwenden.
</Note>
#### The Bill Method 2
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
- *Baste* as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
### Schritt 5: Assembly and Lining
@ -134,43 +134,43 @@ Wieder einmal gibt es zwei Methoden für Endmontage und Verkleidung. Lesen Sie b
#### Montage- und Lining-Methode 1
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_.
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. Möglicherweise müssen Sie unter mehr drücken, um zu verhindern, dass das Futter gezeigt wird. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Damit soll verhindert werden, dass der Streifen herausfällt.
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely *whipstitch* the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching*.
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. Möglicherweise müssen Sie unter mehr drücken, um zu verhindern, dass das Futter gezeigt wird. You may also find you need to *baste* the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- *Slipstitch* or *whipstitch* the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Damit soll verhindert werden, dass der Streifen herausfällt.
#### Montage- und Verbindungsmethode 2
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Nähen Sie das Futter zur Krone entlang der Nahtlinien. Wenn Sie sperrig sind, können Sie entweder die Futternähte oder beide Nähte schneiden.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Damit soll verhindert werden, dass der Streifen herausfällt.
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- *Baste* the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching* and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Nähen Sie das Futter zur Krone entlang der Nahtlinien. Wenn Sie sperrig sind, können Sie entweder die Futternähte oder beide Nähte schneiden.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) *Understitch* lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Damit soll verhindert werden, dass der Streifen herausfällt.
<Note>
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the bills to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions.
@ -178,7 +178,7 @@ You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear
<Tip>
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the bills, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the bill and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the bill to shape. Achten Sie einfach darauf, diese Nähte und die Clips beim Anbringen des Futters zu verbergen.
@ -186,7 +186,7 @@ If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the bills, sew a stitching
<Warning>
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
Assembly and Lining instructions are written with a 6 panelled Holmes in mind. You may find the placement of bills and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. Sie können feststellen, dass die Platzierung von Visoren und Ohrklappenteilen für andere nummerierte Holmes unterschiedlich ist. As a rule of thumb generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling.
@ -198,34 +198,34 @@ Wenn Sie Ihre Verbindungen beim Bau der Ohrklappen nicht abgeschnitten haben, is
#### Beende Knoten-Methode 1
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
#### Beende Knoten-Methode 2
- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
- *Whipstitch* the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
<Note>
Um zu bestimmen, wie man die Bindungen falten will, kann es einfacher sein, zuerst die Ohrklappen zu befestigen. Im Allgemeinen möchten Sie, dass die Falte auf der Unterseite der Bindungen steht, aber wie immer ist es die persönliche Präferenz.
</Note>
### Schritt 7: Button
Wenn du nicht die Buttonhole Ohrenklappen machst, musst du keinen Knopf einnähen, aber es kann nützlich sein, wenn du alle falsch ausgerichteten Nähte an der Krone verstecken möchtest.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and *whipstitch* the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
<Note>
Sicherlich optional, können Sie feststellen, dass ein Knopf fehlt, um das Aussehen zu beenden. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. If it is attach it permanently.
Sicherlich optional, können Sie feststellen, dass ein Knopf fehlt, um das Aussehen zu beenden. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. If it is attach it permanently.
Während ein überdachter Button empfohlen wird, kannst du jeden gewünschten Button verwenden, kannst du es probieren!
</Note>
@ -236,7 +236,7 @@ Das war's! Sie sind fertig. Genießen Sie jetzt die Welt in Ihrem wunderbaren ne
<Note>
Denken Sie daran, dass diese Anweisungen nur Richtlinien sind, also machen Sie sich keine Sorgen, wenn Sie den Hut anders konstruieren möchten.
Denken Sie daran, dass diese Anweisungen nur Richtlinien sind, also machen Sie sich keine Sorgen, wenn Sie den Hut anders konstruieren möchten.\
Die Diagramme müssen noch für dieses Muster erstellt werden, also in der Zwischenzeit, wenn Sie eine visuelle Hilfe benötigen schaue dir das YouTube-Video an, das dieses Muster inspiriert hat:
</Note>

View file

@ -4,19 +4,19 @@ title: Holmes Construction
### Step 1: Prepping the Pieces
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for a more precise sew which is key for hat construction.
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for a more precise sew which is key for hat construction.
<Tip>
Thread marking allows for the seam line to be seen on both the right and wrong sides.
</Tip>
<Note>
Even if you face the crown you may not want to face the ear flaps if you want them to be less rigid when tieing down.
</Note>
<Warning>
@ -27,55 +27,55 @@ These instructions assume you have marked your seam lines. They may be harder to
### Step 2: The Crown
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
- Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not have one you can use flannels or towels instead.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- Repeat until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn together pieces.
- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk or for precision. This seam will be refered to as the "centre crown seam" going forward.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
- Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not have one you can use flannels or towels instead.
- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- Repeat until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn together pieces.
- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk or for precision. This seam will be refered to as the "centre crown seam" going forward.
- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
<Note>
Depending on your seam allowance you may want to trim seams as you go to reduce bulk.
</Note>
### Step 3: The Ear Flaps
#### Ear Flaps with Ties
- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be refered to as ties going forward.
- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be refered to as ties going forward.
- *Baste* a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *edgestitch* the folded edge.
- *Baste* the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
<Tip>
If you are uncertain about the length you want for your ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut it in half. Use these halves as the ties in the instructions above. The ties are finished at the end so you can adjust the lengths then.
</Tip>
<Note>
The lengths above are recommendations so feel free to go as long or as short as you like with the ties.
If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/) for more info.
The lengths above are recommendations so feel free to go as long or as short as you like with the ties.\
If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/) for more info.
</Note>
#### Ear Flaps with Buttonholes
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* the folded edge.
- *Baste* the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
<Warning>
@ -85,26 +85,26 @@ The ear flaps will need to be long enough to go over the top of the peak so they
<Note>
**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes**
**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes**
It is recommended to at least _topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
It is recommended to at least *topstitch* the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
</Note>
### Step 4: The Visors
There are two methods for constructing the visors. This is due to the different types of materials the visor inserts can be made of. Method 1 is for materials that will not be damaged by a needle or iron. Method 2 is for materials that will be damaged by a needle or iron. Read both methods to determine which is best for you to use.
There are two methods for constructing the visors. This is due to the different types of materials the visor inserts can be made of. Method 1 is for materials that will not be damaged by a needle or iron. Method 2 is for materials that will be damaged by a needle or iron. Read both methods to determine which is best for you to use.
#### The Visors Method 1
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary *pad Stitches*. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
- *Baste* along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, *baste* the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
<Warning>
@ -114,63 +114,63 @@ Be careful with the heat of an iron when using certain insert materials. You do
<Note>
If preferred you can temporarily attach the visor insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Just make sure it does not damage your hat fabric when removing or applying.
If preferred you can temporarily attach the visor insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Just make sure it does not damage your hat fabric when removing or applying.
</Note>
#### The Visors Method 2
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
- *Baste* as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
### Step 5: Assembly and Lining
Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both methods carefully to determine which is best for you.
Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both methods carefully to determine which is best for you.
#### Assembly and Lining Method 1
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_.
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely *whipstitch* the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching*.
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to *baste* the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- *Slipstitch* or *whipstitch* the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
#### Assembly and Lining Method 2
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Sew the lining to the the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to trim either the lining seams or both seams.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- *Baste* the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching* and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Sew the lining to the the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to trim either the lining seams or both seams.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) *Understitch* lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
<Note>
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the visors to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions.
@ -178,7 +178,7 @@ You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear
<Tip>
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the visors, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the visor and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the visor to shape. Just make sure to hide this stitching and the clips when attaching the lining.
@ -186,7 +186,7 @@ If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the visors, sew a stitching
<Warning>
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
Assembly and Lining instructions are written with a 6 panelled Holmes in mind. You may find the placement of visors and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule of thumb generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling.
@ -198,34 +198,34 @@ If you did not cut your ties down when constructing the ear flaps, now is the ti
#### Finishing Ties Method 1
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
#### Finishing Ties Method 2
- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
- *Whipstitch* the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
<Note>
To determine which way you want to fold the ties, you may find it easier to tie the ear flaps up first. Generally you want the fold to be on the underside of the ties but as always it is personal preference.
</Note>
### Step 7: Button
Unless you are doing the Buttonhole Ear Flaps you do not have to sew a button on but it may be useful if you want to hide any misaligned seams at the crown peak.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and *whipstitch* the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
<Note>
Whilst certainly optional, you may find that a button is what is missing from the hat to finish the look. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. If it is, attach it permanently.
Whilst certainly optional, you may find that a button is what is missing from the hat to finish the look. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. If it is, attach it permanently.
Whilst a covered button is recommeneded you can use whatever button you desire, feel free to experiment!
</Note>
@ -236,7 +236,7 @@ That's it! You're all done. Now enjoy the world in your wonderful new hat whilst
<Note>
Remember these instructions are just guidelines so don't worry if you want to construct the hat differently.
Remember these instructions are just guidelines so don't worry if you want to construct the hat differently.\
The Diagrams are yet to be made for this pattern so in the mean time if you need a visual aid, watch the YouTube video that inspired this pattern:
</Note>

View file

@ -4,19 +4,19 @@ title: Construcción de Holmes
### Paso 1: Preparando las Piezas
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. Esto es para una costura más precisa que es clave para la construcción de sombrero.
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. Esto es para una costura más precisa que es clave para la construcción de sombrero.
<Tip>
La marca de hilos permite ver la línea de costura tanto en el lado derecho como en el incorrecto.
</Tip>
<Note>
Incluso si usted se enfrenta a la corona puede que no quiera enfrentarse a las aletas auriculares si quiere que sean menos rígidas cuando se atan.
</Note>
<Warning>
@ -27,55 +27,55 @@ Estas instrucciones asumen que has marcado tus líneas de costura. Pueden ser m
### Paso 2: La Corona
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
- Press seams open. Para ello, si no dispone de jamón puede utilizar flanneles o toallas en su lugar.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- Repeat until you have two halves. Si la mitad del número de piezas de la corona es un número impar, tendrás que coser una sola pieza para cada mitad. Por ejemplo, si usted tiene 6 piezas de la corona, usted hace dos mitades de 3 coser una pieza a dos piezas cocidas juntas.
- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. Es posible que le resulte más fácil unir la mano debido a la masa o a la precisión. Esta costura será referida como la "costura de la corona central" que avanza.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
- Press seams open. Para ello, si no dispone de jamón puede utilizar flanneles o toallas en su lugar.
- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- Repeat until you have two halves. Si la mitad del número de piezas de la corona es un número impar, tendrás que coser una sola pieza para cada mitad. Por ejemplo, si usted tiene 6 piezas de la corona, usted hace dos mitades de 3 coser una pieza a dos piezas cocidas juntas.
- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. Es posible que le resulte más fácil unir la mano debido a la masa o a la precisión. Esta costura será referida como la "costura de la corona central" que avanza.
- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
<Note>
Dependiendo de su franquicia de costura puede que desee recortar costuras a medida que vaya a reducir el granel.
</Note>
### Paso 3: Las flaps auriculares
#### Aleteados con ataduras
- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. Se referirán a ellos como lazos que avanzan.
- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repetir para otro empate.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. Se referirán a ellos como lazos que avanzan.
- *Baste* a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repetir para otro empate.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *edgestitch* the folded edge.
- *Baste* the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
<Tip>
If you are uncertain about the length you want for you ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut in half. Utilice estas mitades como los lazos en las instrucciones anteriores. Los lazos están terminados al final para que puedas ajustar las longitudes entonces.
</Tip>
<Note>
Las longitudes anteriores son recomendaciones, así que siéntete libre de ir tan largo o corto como quieras con los vínculos.
If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/) for more info.
Las longitudes anteriores son recomendaciones, así que siéntete libre de ir tan largo o corto como quieras con los vínculos.\
If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/) for more info.
</Note>
#### Brillantes con agujeros de botones
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (Esto no es necesario si dos flaps ya han sido conectados)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (Esto no es necesario si dos flaps ya han sido conectados)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* the folded edge.
- *Baste* the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
<Warning>
@ -85,9 +85,9 @@ Las aletas auditivas tendrán que ser lo suficientemente largas para pasar por e
<Note>
**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes**
**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes**
It is recommended to at least _topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
It is recommended to at least *topstitch* the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
</Note>
@ -97,14 +97,14 @@ There are two methods for constructing the bill. This is due to the different ty
#### The Bill Method 1
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary *pad Stitches*. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
- *Baste* along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, *baste* the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
<Warning>
@ -114,19 +114,19 @@ Tenga cuidado con el calor de un hierro cuando utilice ciertos materiales de ins
<Note>
If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Asegúrate de que no daña tu tela de sombrero al remover o aplicar.
If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Asegúrate de que no daña tu tela de sombrero al remover o aplicar.
</Note>
#### The Bill Method 2
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
- *Baste* as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
### Paso 5: Colmena y Lining
@ -134,43 +134,43 @@ Una vez más, hay dos métodos para el montaje final y el revestimiento. Lea amb
#### Método de Ensamblado 1
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_.
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. Puede que tenga que pulsar debajo de más para evitar que el revestimiento se muestre. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Esto es para ayudar a evitar que el revestimiento se caiga.
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely *whipstitch* the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching*.
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. Puede que tenga que pulsar debajo de más para evitar que el revestimiento se muestre. You may also find you need to *baste* the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- *Slipstitch* or *whipstitch* the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Esto es para ayudar a evitar que el revestimiento se caiga.
#### Método de Ensamblaje 2
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Difundir el revestimiento a la corona a lo largo de las líneas de costura. Si es voluminoso puede querer recortar las costuras de forro o ambas costuras.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Esto es para ayudar a evitar que el revestimiento se caiga.
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- *Baste* the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching* and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Difundir el revestimiento a la corona a lo largo de las líneas de costura. Si es voluminoso puede querer recortar las costuras de forro o ambas costuras.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) *Understitch* lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Esto es para ayudar a evitar que el revestimiento se caiga.
<Note>
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the bills to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions.
@ -178,7 +178,7 @@ You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear
<Tip>
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the bills, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the bill and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the bill to shape. Simplemente asegúrese de ocultar este stitching y los clips al adjuntar el forraje.
@ -186,7 +186,7 @@ If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the bills, sew a stitching
<Warning>
**Tanto para los métodos de ensamblaje como para los de estiramiento**
**Tanto para los métodos de ensamblaje como para los de estiramiento**
Las instrucciones de ensamblaje y aprendizaje están escritas teniendo en cuenta los 6 hoyos panelados. You may find the placement of bills and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule of thumb generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling.
@ -198,34 +198,34 @@ Si no cortaron sus lazos cuando construyeron los tapones de los oídos, ahora es
#### Finalizando método Ties 1
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
#### Finalizando método Ties 2
- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
- *Whipstitch* the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
<Note>
Para determinar cuál es la forma en que quieres doblar los lazos, te resultará más fácil atar las aletas de los oídos primero. Generalmente quieres que el pliegue esté en la parte inferior de los lazos pero como siempre es preferencia personal.
</Note>
### Paso 7: Botón
A menos que esté haciendo las aletas de ojo de botón, no tiene que coser un botón, pero puede ser útil si quiere ocultar cualquier costura mal alineada en el pico de la corona.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and *whipstitch* the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
<Note>
Aunque sin duda opcional, puede que encuentre un botón es lo que falta en el sombrero para terminar la mirada. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. If it is attach it permanently.
Aunque sin duda opcional, puede que encuentre un botón es lo que falta en el sombrero para terminar la mirada. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. If it is attach it permanently.
Mientras que un botón cubierto está cubierto puedes usar cualquier botón que desees, ¡siéntete libre de experimentar!
</Note>
@ -236,7 +236,7 @@ Mientras que un botón cubierto está cubierto puedes usar cualquier botón que
<Note>
Recuerde que estas instrucciones son sólo directrices así que no te preocupes si quieres construir el sombrero de manera diferente.
Recuerde que estas instrucciones son sólo directrices así que no te preocupes si quieres construir el sombrero de manera diferente.\
Los diagramas todavía están por hacer para este patrón, así que mientras tanto si necesita ayuda visual, ver el video de YouTube que inspiró este patrón:
</Note>

View file

@ -4,19 +4,19 @@ title: Construction de Holmes
### Étape 1 : Préparation des morceaux
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. Ceci est pour une couture plus précise qui est la clé pour la construction de chapeaux.
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. Ceci est pour une couture plus précise qui est la clé pour la construction de chapeaux.
<Tip>
Le marquage du fil permet de voir la ligne de couture à la fois sur les côtés de droite et sur les mauvais côtés.
</Tip>
<Note>
Même si vous êtes confronté à la couronne, vous ne voudrez peut-être pas faire face à l'oreille si vous voulez qu'ils soient moins rigides lorsque vous vous tapotez.
</Note>
<Warning>
@ -27,55 +27,55 @@ Ces instructions supposent que vous avez marqué vos lignes de couture. Ils peuv
### Étape 2 : La Couronne
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
- Press seams open. Vous avez fait besoin d'utiliser un jambon tailleur pour cela, si vous n'en avez pas, vous pouvez utiliser des flanques ou des serviettes à la place.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- Repeat until you have two halves. Si la moitié du nombre de pièces de couronne est un nombre impair, vous devrez coudre une pièce à chaque moitié. Par exemple, si vous avez 6 pièces de couronne, vous fabriquez deux moitiés de 3 pièces cousues ensemble à deux pièces.
- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. Il peut être plus facile de broder le sommet ensemble en raison de la masse ou de la précision. Cette couture sera désignée comme la « couture de couronne centrale » qui va de l'avant.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
- Press seams open. Vous avez fait besoin d'utiliser un jambon tailleur pour cela, si vous n'en avez pas, vous pouvez utiliser des flanques ou des serviettes à la place.
- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- Repeat until you have two halves. Si la moitié du nombre de pièces de couronne est un nombre impair, vous devrez coudre une pièce à chaque moitié. Par exemple, si vous avez 6 pièces de couronne, vous fabriquez deux moitiés de 3 pièces cousues ensemble à deux pièces.
- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. Il peut être plus facile de broder le sommet ensemble en raison de la masse ou de la précision. Cette couture sera désignée comme la « couture de couronne centrale » qui va de l'avant.
- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
<Note>
Selon votre marge de couture, vous pourriez vouloir couper les coutures au fur et à mesure que vous allez réduire les coutures.
</Note>
### Étape 3 : Les flacons des oreilles
#### Flaps des oreilles avec des cravates
- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. Ils seront désignés comme des liens à venir.
- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Répéter pour une autre cravate.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. Ils seront désignés comme des liens à venir.
- *Baste* a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Répéter pour une autre cravate.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *edgestitch* the folded edge.
- *Baste* the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
<Tip>
If you are uncertain about the length you want for you ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut in half. Utilisez ces moitiés comme des liens dans les instructions ci-dessus. Les cravates sont terminées à la fin afin de pouvoir ajuster les longueurs.
</Tip>
<Note>
Les longueurs ci-dessus sont des recommandations donc n'hésitez pas à aller aussi longtemps ou aussi court que vous le souhaitez avec les attaches.
If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/) for more info.
Les longueurs ci-dessus sont des recommandations donc n'hésitez pas à aller aussi longtemps ou aussi court que vous le souhaitez avec les attaches.\
If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/) for more info.
</Note>
#### Flaps de l'oreille avec trous de boutons
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (Ce n'est pas nécessaire si deux flaps ont déjà été interfacés)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (Ce n'est pas nécessaire si deux flaps ont déjà été interfacés)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* the folded edge.
- *Baste* the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
<Warning>
@ -85,9 +85,9 @@ Les clapets de l'oreille devront être assez longs pour dépasser le sommet de l
<Note>
**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes**
**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes**
It is recommended to at least _topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
It is recommended to at least *topstitch* the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
</Note>
@ -97,14 +97,14 @@ There are two methods for constructing the bill. This is due to the different ty
#### The Bill Method 1
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary *pad Stitches*. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
- *Baste* along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, *baste* the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
<Warning>
@ -114,19 +114,19 @@ Faites attention à la chaleur d'un fer lorsque vous utilisez certains matériau
<Note>
If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Veillez simplement à ce que le tissu de votre chapeau ne soit pas endommagé lors de l'enlèvement ou de l'application.
If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Veillez simplement à ce que le tissu de votre chapeau ne soit pas endommagé lors de l'enlèvement ou de l'application.
</Note>
#### The Bill Method 2
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
- *Baste* as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
### Étape 5 : Assemblage et doublure
@ -134,43 +134,43 @@ Une fois de plus, il y a deux méthodes pour l'assemblage et la doublure finales
#### Méthode de montage et de doublure 1
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_.
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. Il se peut que vous ayez besoin d'appuyer sous plus pour éviter que la doublure ne s'affiche. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Il s'agit de contribuer à éviter que la doublure ne s'effondre.
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely *whipstitch* the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching*.
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. Il se peut que vous ayez besoin d'appuyer sous plus pour éviter que la doublure ne s'affiche. You may also find you need to *baste* the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- *Slipstitch* or *whipstitch* the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Il s'agit de contribuer à éviter que la doublure ne s'effondre.
#### Méthode de montage et de doublure 2
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Coudre la doublure à la couronne le long des lignes de couture. Si vous êtes volumineux, vous voudrez peut-être couper les coutures de doublure ou les deux coutures.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Il s'agit de contribuer à éviter que la doublure ne s'effondre.
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- *Baste* the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching* and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Coudre la doublure à la couronne le long des lignes de couture. Si vous êtes volumineux, vous voudrez peut-être couper les coutures de doublure ou les deux coutures.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) *Understitch* lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Il s'agit de contribuer à éviter que la doublure ne s'effondre.
<Note>
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the bills to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions.
@ -178,7 +178,7 @@ You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear
<Tip>
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the bills, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the bill and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the bill to shape. Assurez-vous juste de cacher cette broderie et les clips lorsque vous fixez la doublure.
@ -186,7 +186,7 @@ If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the bills, sew a stitching
<Warning>
**Pour les méthodes d'assemblage et de doublage**
**Pour les méthodes d'assemblage et de doublage**
Les instructions d'assemblage et de confection sont écrites avec 6 panneaux en tête. You may find the placement of bills and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule of thumb generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling.
@ -198,34 +198,34 @@ Si vous n'avez pas réduit vos attaches lors de la construction de l'oreille, il
#### Méthode de finition des cravates 1
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
#### Méthode de finition des cravates 2
- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
- *Whipstitch* the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
<Note>
Pour déterminer la façon dont vous voulez plier les cravates, il vous sera peut-être plus facile de nouer l'oreille en premier. Généralement, vous voulez que le pli se trouve au dessous des liens, mais comme toujours il est de préférence personnelle.
</Note>
### Étape 7 : Bouton
À moins que vous ne fassiez les Flaps de l'oreille du bouton, vous n'avez pas à coudre un bouton sur le bouton, mais il peut être utile si vous voulez cacher les coutures mal alignées au sommet de la couronne.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and *whipstitch* the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
<Note>
Bien que facultatif, il se peut que vous trouviez un bouton qui manque dans le chapeau pour finir l'apparence. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. If it is attach it permanently.
Bien que facultatif, il se peut que vous trouviez un bouton qui manque dans le chapeau pour finir l'apparence. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. If it is attach it permanently.
Bien qu'un bouton couvert soit recommandé, vous pouvez utiliser n'importe quel bouton que vous désirez, n'hésitez pas à expérimenter !
</Note>
@ -236,7 +236,7 @@ Voilà! « Vous avez fini. » Maintenant profitez du monde dans votre nouveau ch
<Note>
Rappelez-vous que ces instructions ne sont que des lignes directrices, donc ne vous inquiétez pas si vous voulez construire le chapeau différemment.
Rappelez-vous que ces instructions ne sont que des lignes directrices, donc ne vous inquiétez pas si vous voulez construire le chapeau différemment.\
Les diagrammes doivent encore être faits pour ce modèle, donc en attendant, si vous avez besoin d'une aide visuelle, regardez la vidéo YouTube qui a inspiré ce modèle :
</Note>

View file

@ -4,19 +4,19 @@ title: Holmes Constructie
### Stap 1: Voorbereiden van de stukjes
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. Dit is voor een preciezere naad die essentieel is voor de bouw van hoed.
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. Dit is voor een preciezere naad die essentieel is voor de bouw van hoed.
<Tip>
Draadmarkering maakt het mogelijk om de naadlijn aan zowel de rechterals de verkeerde kant te zien.
</Tip>
<Note>
Zelfs als je de kroon aan het gezicht geeft, wil je de oorklappen misschien niet aankijken als je wilt dat ze minder rigide zijn bij het aan banden leggen.
</Note>
<Warning>
@ -27,55 +27,55 @@ Deze instructies gaan ervan uit dat je naadlijnen hebt gemarkeerd. Ze kunnen moe
### Stap 2: De Kroon
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
- Press seams open. Je moest hiervoor een kleerham gebruiken, als je er geen hebt, kun je flannels of handdoeken gebruiken.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- Repeat until you have two halves. Als de helft van het aantal kroon een raar getal is, moet je aan elke helft één stuk naaien. bv. Als je 6 kroon stukjes hebt, maak je twee helften van 3 stikken aan elkaar vast.
- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. Het is mogelijk dat het makkelijker is om de piek samen te doorstikken door bulk of precisie. Deze naad wordt verwezen naar de "middelste kroonnaad" die verder gaat.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
- Press seams open. Je moest hiervoor een kleerham gebruiken, als je er geen hebt, kun je flannels of handdoeken gebruiken.
- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- Repeat until you have two halves. Als de helft van het aantal kroon een raar getal is, moet je aan elke helft één stuk naaien. bv. Als je 6 kroon stukjes hebt, maak je twee helften van 3 stikken aan elkaar vast.
- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. Het is mogelijk dat het makkelijker is om de piek samen te doorstikken door bulk of precisie. Deze naad wordt verwezen naar de "middelste kroonnaad" die verder gaat.
- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
<Note>
Afhankelijk van je naadwaarde wil je misschien naden bijknippen terwijl je bulk gaat verminderen.
</Note>
### Stap 3: De ar-Flaps
#### Ear Flaps met Grenzen
- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. Daar zal naar worden verwezen naarmate de banden vorderen.
- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Herhaal voor andere stropdassen.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. Daar zal naar worden verwezen naarmate de banden vorderen.
- *Baste* a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Herhaal voor andere stropdassen.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *edgestitch* the folded edge.
- *Baste* the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
<Tip>
Als je onzeker bent over de lengte van je stropdassen duurt 1 meter (39") en knip ze in de helft. Gebruik deze helft als de stropdassen in de bovenstaande instructies. De stropdassen zijn aan het einde af, zodat je de lengte dan kunt aanpassen.
</Tip>
<Note>
De lengtes hierboven zijn aanbevelingen, dus voel je vrij om zo lang of zo kort te gaan als je wilt met de banden.
If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/) for more info.
De lengtes hierboven zijn aanbevelingen, dus voel je vrij om zo lang of zo kort te gaan als je wilt met de banden.\
If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/) for more info.
</Note>
#### Ear Flaps met knoopsgaten
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (Dit is niet nodig als er al twee flaps met elkaar vervlochten zijn)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (Dit is niet nodig als er al twee flaps met elkaar vervlochten zijn)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* the folded edge.
- *Baste* the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
<Warning>
@ -85,9 +85,9 @@ De oorklappen moeten lang genoeg zijn om de bovenkant van het piek te overschrij
<Note>
**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes**
**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes**
It is recommended to at least _topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
It is recommended to at least *topstitch* the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
</Note>
@ -97,14 +97,14 @@ Er zijn twee methoden voor de bouw van de bezoekers. Dit is te wijten aan de ver
#### De Visors Methode 1
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary *pad Stitches*. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
- *Baste* along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, *baste* the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
<Warning>
@ -114,19 +114,19 @@ Wees voorzichtig met de warmte van een ijzer wanneer je bepaalde invoegmateriale
<Note>
Als je liever zou zien dat je tijdelijk de bezoeker bevestigt, dan moet je anders naaien en een naald door het materiaal doen hangen. Zorg ervoor dat het bij het verwijderen of toepassen geen schade toebrengt aan de stof van je hoed.
Als je liever zou zien dat je tijdelijk de bezoeker bevestigt, dan moet je anders naaien en een naald door het materiaal doen hangen. Zorg ervoor dat het bij het verwijderen of toepassen geen schade toebrengt aan de stof van je hoed.
</Note>
#### De Visors Methode 2
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
- *Baste* as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
### Stap 5: Buurderij en Eten
@ -134,43 +134,43 @@ Eens te meer zijn er twee methodes voor de definitieve vergadering en de aanslui
#### Montage- en inspraakmethode 1
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_.
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. Je vindt dat je onder meer moet indrukken om te voorkomen dat de voering wordt weergegeven. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Dit om te voorkomen dat de voering uitvalt.
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely *whipstitch* the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching*.
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. Je vindt dat je onder meer moet indrukken om te voorkomen dat de voering wordt weergegeven. You may also find you need to *baste* the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- *Slipstitch* or *whipstitch* the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Dit om te voorkomen dat de voering uitvalt.
#### Montage- en inspraakmethode 2
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Stik de voering aan de kroon langs de naadlijnen. Als je grootmoedig bent kun je de voering naden of beide naden bijknippen.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Dit om te voorkomen dat de voering uitvalt.
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- *Baste* the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching* and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Stik de voering aan de kroon langs de naadlijnen. Als je grootmoedig bent kun je de voering naden of beide naden bijknippen.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) *Understitch* lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Dit om te voorkomen dat de voering uitvalt.
<Note>
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. Het is gewoon of je de bezoeker liever onderduikt, of dat de oor flaps onderduikt, zoals in de instructies.
@ -178,7 +178,7 @@ You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear
<Tip>
**Voor zowel de Buurderij als de Lining methoden**
**Voor zowel de Buurderij als de Lining methoden**
Heb je problemen met de curves van de bezoekers, stik een stiksel 1/8" (3mm) van de drieglijn in de naadwaarde van de bezoeker en knip er aan vast. Dit zou het makkelijker moeten maken om de bezoeker vorm te geven. Zorg ervoor dat je deze stiksel en de clips verbergt wanneer je de voering bevestigt.
@ -186,7 +186,7 @@ Heb je problemen met de curves van de bezoekers, stik een stiksel 1/8" (3mm) van
<Warning>
**Voor zowel de Buurderij als de montagemogelijkheden**
**Voor zowel de Buurderij als de montagemogelijkheden**
De instructies van de Buurderij en de Ling worden geschreven met een 6 Panelled Holmes in het achterhoofd. Je kunt de plaatsing van bezoekers en stukjes oor verschillend vinden voor andere gegenummerde broekzakken. As a rule of thumb generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling.
@ -198,34 +198,34 @@ Als je je stropdassen niet hebt geknipt bij het bouwen van de oorvlakken, is het
#### Voltooi Ties Methode 1
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
#### Voltooien van Ties Methode 2
- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
- *Whipstitch* the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
<Note>
Om te bepalen op welke manier je de dassen wilt vouwen, is het mogelijk dat het makkelijker is om de oorvezels eerst vast te naaien. Over het algemeen wil je dat de vouw aan de onderkant van de das ligt, maar zoals altijd is het persoonlijke voorkeur.
</Note>
### Stap 7: Knop
Tenzij je de knoopsgatenvlakken doet hoef je geen knop aan te naaien, maar het kan handig zijn als je de naad van de kroon wilt verbergen.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and *whipstitch* the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
<Note>
Hoewel het zeker facultatief is, vind je misschien dat er een knop ontbreekt bij de hoed om het uiterlijk af te maken. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. Neem dit permanent toe als het is.
Hoewel het zeker facultatief is, vind je misschien dat er een knop ontbreekt bij de hoed om het uiterlijk af te maken. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. Neem dit permanent toe als het is.
Terwijl een gedekte knop wordt aanbevolen, kunt u elke knop gebruiken die u wilt, voel je vrij om te experimenteren!
</Note>
@ -236,7 +236,7 @@ Dat is het! Je bent allemaal klaar. Geniet nu van de wereld in je geweldige nieu
<Note>
Vergeet niet dat deze instructies slechts richtlijnen zijn, dus maak je geen zorgen als je de hoed anders wilt bouwen.
Vergeet niet dat deze instructies slechts richtlijnen zijn, dus maak je geen zorgen als je de hoed anders wilt bouwen.\
De diagrammen moeten nog gemaakt worden voor dit patroon, dus in de tussentijd als je hulp nodig hebt. bekijk de YouTube video die dit patroon inspireerde:
</Note>

View file

@ -1,7 +1,5 @@
- - -
- - -
***
***
<PatternMeasurements pattern='holmes' />

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@ -1,7 +1,4 @@
---
---
<PatternMeasurements pattern='holmes' />

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@ -1,7 +1,5 @@
- - -
- - -
***
***
<PatternMeasurements pattern='holmes' />

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@ -1,7 +1,5 @@
- - -
- - -
***
***
<PatternMeasurements pattern='holmes' />

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@ -1,7 +1,5 @@
- - -
- - -
***
***
<PatternMeasurements pattern='holmes' />

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@ -4,19 +4,20 @@ title: Holmes Was du brauchst
Um Holmes zu erstellen, benötigst du Folgendes:
- Grundlegendes Nähzubehör
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- A rigid material for the bill insert ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham.
- (Optional) 1 abgedeckter Button über 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (2.2cm)
- Grundlegendes Nähzubehör
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- A rigid material for the bill insert ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham.
- (Optional) 1 abgedeckter Button über 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (2.2cm)
<Note>
Je nach Stil sind die Krawatten und Tasten optional.
If you are making Buttonhole Ear Flaps you can omit the ties.
If you are making Tie Ear Flaps you can omit the button.
Ties can also be made from fabric if you prefer ([see Holmes Cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/))
- You can also use different width and type ribbons for the ties if you prefer.
Je nach Stil sind die Krawatten und Tasten optional.\
If you are making Buttonhole Ear Flaps you can omit the ties.\
If you are making Tie Ear Flaps you can omit the button.\
Ties can also be made from fabric if you prefer ([see Holmes Cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/))
- You can also use different width and type ribbons for the ties if you prefer.
</Note>

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@ -4,19 +4,20 @@ title: Holmes What you need
To make Holmes, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- A rigid material for the visor insert ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham.
- (Optional) 1 covered button about 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (2.2cm)
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- A rigid material for the visor insert ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham.
- (Optional) 1 covered button about 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (2.2cm)
<Note>
Depending on style the ties and buttons are optional.
- If you are making Buttonhole Ear Flaps you can omit the ties.
- If you are making Tie Ear Flaps you can omit the button.
- Ties can also be made from fabric if you prefer ([see Holmes Cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/))
- You can also use different width and type ribbons for the ties if you prefer.
Depending on style the ties and buttons are optional.
- If you are making Buttonhole Ear Flaps you can omit the ties.
- If you are making Tie Ear Flaps you can omit the button.
- Ties can also be made from fabric if you prefer ([see Holmes Cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/))
- You can also use different width and type ribbons for the ties if you prefer.
</Note>

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@ -4,19 +4,20 @@ title: Holmes Lo que necesitas
Para hacer Holmes, necesitarás lo siguiente:
- Suministros básicos de costura
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- A rigid material for the bill insert ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham.
- (Opcional) 1 botón cubierto sobre 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (2.2cm)
- Suministros básicos de costura
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- A rigid material for the bill insert ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham.
- (Opcional) 1 botón cubierto sobre 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (2.2cm)
<Note>
Dependiendo del estilo, los lazos y botones son opcionales.
- Si está haciendo Botellas de Ojo de Botón puede omitir los vínculos.
- Si está haciendo Tie Ear Flaps puede omitir el botón.
- Los empates también se pueden hacer con tela si lo prefieres ([ver Corte de Holmes](/docs/patrones/holmes/corting/))
- También puedes usar diferentes anchura y escribir ribbons para los lazos si lo prefieres.
Dependiendo del estilo, los lazos y botones son opcionales.
- Si está haciendo Botellas de Ojo de Botón puede omitir los vínculos.
- Si está haciendo Tie Ear Flaps puede omitir el botón.
- Los empates también se pueden hacer con tela si lo prefieres ([ver Corte de Holmes](/docs/patrones/holmes/corting/))
- También puedes usar diferentes anchura y escribir ribbons para los lazos si lo prefieres.
</Note>

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@ -4,19 +4,20 @@ title: Holmes ce dont vous avez besoin
Pour faire des Holmes, vous aurez besoin des éléments suivants :
- Fourniture de base pour la couture
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- A rigid material for the bill insert ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham.
- (Facultatif) 1 bouton couvert d'environ 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (22cm)
- Fourniture de base pour la couture
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- A rigid material for the bill insert ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham.
- (Facultatif) 1 bouton couvert d'environ 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (22cm)
<Note>
Selon le style, les cravates et les boutons sont optionnels.
- Si vous fabriquez des clapets d'oreille pour trou de bouton, vous pouvez omettre les cravates.
- Si vous faites des lames de l'oreille attachée, vous pouvez omettre le bouton.
- Les cravates peuvent également être fabriquées à partir de tissu si vous préférez ([voir Découpe des creuses](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/))
- Vous pouvez également utiliser des rubans de largeur et de type différents pour les cravates si vous préférez.
Selon le style, les cravates et les boutons sont optionnels.
- Si vous fabriquez des clapets d'oreille pour trou de bouton, vous pouvez omettre les cravates.
- Si vous faites des lames de l'oreille attachée, vous pouvez omettre le bouton.
- Les cravates peuvent également être fabriquées à partir de tissu si vous préférez ([voir Découpe des creuses](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/))
- Vous pouvez également utiliser des rubans de largeur et de type différents pour les cravates si vous préférez.
</Note>

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@ -4,19 +4,20 @@ title: Houdt wat je nodig hebt
Om Holmes te maken heb je het volgende nodig:
- Basis naaimateriaal
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- Een star materiaal voor de bezoeker invoegen ([zie Holmes Fabrick-opties](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham.
- (Optioneel) 1 bedekte knop over 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (2,2cm)
- Basis naaimateriaal
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- Een star materiaal voor de bezoeker invoegen ([zie Holmes Fabrick-opties](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham.
- (Optioneel) 1 bedekte knop over 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (2,2cm)
<Note>
Afhankelijk van de stijl zijn de knoppen en elementen optioneel.
- Als je Buttonhole Ear Flaps maakt, kun je de stropdassen weglaten.
- Als je Tie Ear Flaps maakt, kun je de knop weglaten.
- Ties kunnen ook gemaakt worden van stof als je liever hebt ([zie Holmes snijden](/docs/patronen/holmes/cutting/))
- Je kunt ook verschillende breedte gebruiken en linten typen voor de stropdassen als je dat wilt.
Afhankelijk van de stijl zijn de knoppen en elementen optioneel.
- Als je Buttonhole Ear Flaps maakt, kun je de stropdassen weglaten.
- Als je Tie Ear Flaps maakt, kun je de knop weglaten.
- Ties kunnen ook gemaakt worden van stof als je liever hebt ([zie Holmes snijden](/docs/patronen/holmes/cutting/))
- Je kunt ook verschillende breedte gebruiken en linten typen voor de stropdassen als je dat wilt.
</Note>

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@ -1,8 +1,7 @@
- - -
- - -
***
***
<YouTube id='H24VBFMZJF4' />
<PatternDocs pattern='holmes' />

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Buttonhole guide
- - -
***
Adds a buttonhole to the ear flap to help you draft the buttonhole ear flap variant
## Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster
![Dieses Bild zeigt den Effekt dieser Option, indem es mehrere Varianten überlagert, die einen anderen Wert für diese Option haben](holmes_buttonhole_sample.svg "Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Buttonhole guide
Adds a buttonhole to the ear flap to help you draft the buttonhole ear flap variant
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_buttonhole_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Buttonhole guide
- - -
***
Adds a buttonhole to the ear flap to help you draft the buttonhole ear flap variant
## Efecto de esta opción en el patrón
![Esta imagen muestra el efecto de esta opción superponiendo varias variantes que tienen un valor diferente para esta opción](holmes_buttonhole_sample.svg "Efecto de esta opción en el patrón")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Buttonhole guide
- - -
***
Adds a buttonhole to the ear flap to help you draft the buttonhole ear flap variant
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
![Cette image montre l'effet de cette option en superposant plusieurs variantes qui ont une valeur différente pour cette option](holmes_buttonhole_sample.svg "Effet de cette option sur le motif")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Buttonhole guide
- - -
***
Adds a buttonhole to the ear flap to help you draft the buttonhole ear flap variant
## Effect van deze optie op het patroon
![Deze afbeelding toont het effect van deze optie door meerdere varianten die een andere waarde hebben voor deze optie te vervangen](holmes_buttonhole_sample.svg "Effect van deze optie op het patroon")

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- - -
- - -
***
***
<PatternOptions pattern='holmes' />

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Ear flap length
- - -
***
Controls the length of the ear flaps independently from the crown pieces
## Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster
![Dieses Bild zeigt den Effekt dieser Option, indem es mehrere Varianten überlagert, die einen anderen Wert für diese Option haben](holmes_earlength_sample.svg "Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Ear flap length
Controls the length of the ear flaps independently from the crown pieces
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_earlength_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Ear flap length
- - -
***
Controls the length of the ear flaps independently from the crown pieces
## Efecto de esta opción en el patrón
![Esta imagen muestra el efecto de esta opción superponiendo varias variantes que tienen un valor diferente para esta opción](holmes_earlength_sample.svg "Efecto de esta opción en el patrón")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Ear flap length
- - -
***
Controls the length of the ear flaps independently from the crown pieces
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
![Cette image montre l'effet de cette option en superposant plusieurs variantes qui ont une valeur différente pour cette option](holmes_earlength_sample.svg "Effet de cette option sur le motif")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Ear flap length
- - -
***
Controls the length of the ear flaps independently from the crown pieces
## Effect van deze optie op het patroon
![Deze afbeelding toont het effect van deze optie door meerdere varianten die een andere waarde hebben voor deze optie te vervangen](holmes_earlength_sample.svg "Effect van deze optie op het patroon")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Ear flap width
- - -
***
Controls the width of the ear flaps
## Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster
![Dieses Bild zeigt den Effekt dieser Option, indem es mehrere Varianten überlagert, die einen anderen Wert für diese Option haben](holmes_earwidth_sample.svg "Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Ear flap width
Controls the width of the ear flaps
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_earwidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Ear flap width
- - -
***
Controls the width of the ear flaps
## Efecto de esta opción en el patrón
![Esta imagen muestra el efecto de esta opción superponiendo varias variantes que tienen un valor diferente para esta opción](holmes_earwidth_sample.svg "Efecto de esta opción en el patrón")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Ear flap width
- - -
***
Controls the width of the ear flaps
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
![Cette image montre l'effet de cette option en superposant plusieurs variantes qui ont une valeur différente pour cette option](holmes_earwidth_sample.svg "Effet de cette option sur le motif")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Ear flap width
- - -
***
Controls the width of the ear flaps
## Effect van deze optie op het patroon
![Deze afbeelding toont het effect van deze optie door meerdere varianten die een andere waarde hebben voor deze optie te vervangen](holmes_earwidth_sample.svg "Effect van deze optie op het patroon")

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---
<PatternOptions pattern='holmes' />

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@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
- - -
- - -
***
***
<PatternOptions pattern='holmes' />

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@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
- - -
- - -
***
***
<PatternOptions pattern='holmes' />

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@ -6,6 +6,6 @@ Controls the number of panels there are in the crown
![Illustration, die den Effekt dieser Option zeigt](gores.svg)
## Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster
![Dieses Bild zeigt den Effekt dieser Option, indem es mehrere Varianten überlagert, die einen anderen Wert für diese Option haben](holmes_gores_sample.svg "Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster")

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@ -6,6 +6,6 @@ Controls the number of panels there are in the crown
![Illustration showing the effect of this option](gores.svg)
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_gores_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -6,6 +6,6 @@ Controls the number of panels there are in the crown
![Illustration showing the effect of this option](gores.svg)
## Efecto de esta opción en el patrón
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_gores_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -6,6 +6,6 @@ Controls the number of panels there are in the crown
![Illustration showing the effect of this option](gores.svg)
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_gores_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -6,6 +6,6 @@ Controls the number of panels there are in the crown
![Illustration showing the effect of this option](gores.svg)
## Effect van deze optie op het patroon
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_gores_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Head ease
- - -
***
Die Menge an Leichtigkeit um den Kopf.
## Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster
![Dieses Bild zeigt den Effekt dieser Option, indem es mehrere Varianten überlagert, die einen anderen Wert für diese Option haben](holmes_headease_sample.svg "Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster")
![Dieses Bild zeigt den Effekt dieser Option, indem es mehrere Varianten überlagert, die einen anderen Wert für diese Option haben](holmes_headease_sample.svg "Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Head ease
The amount of ease around your head.
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_headease_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_headease_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Head ease
- - -
***
La cantidad de facilidad alrededor de tu cabeza.
## Efecto de esta opción en el patrón
![Esta imagen muestra el efecto de esta opción superponiendo varias variantes que tienen un valor diferente para esta opción](holmes_headease_sample.svg "Efecto de esta opción en el patrón")
![Esta imagen muestra el efecto de esta opción superponiendo varias variantes que tienen un valor diferente para esta opción](holmes_headease_sample.svg "Efecto de esta opción en el patrón")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Head ease
- - -
***
La quantité d'aisance autour de la tête.
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
![Cette image montre l'effet de cette option en superposant plusieurs variantes qui ont une valeur différente pour cette option](holmes_headease_sample.svg "Effet de cette option sur le motif")
![Cette image montre l'effet de cette option en superposant plusieurs variantes qui ont une valeur différente pour cette option](holmes_headease_sample.svg "Effet de cette option sur le motif")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Head ease
- - -
***
De hoeveelheid overwijdte rond je hoofd.
## Effect van deze optie op het patroon
![Deze afbeelding toont het effect van deze optie door meerdere varianten die een andere waarde hebben voor deze optie te vervangen](holmes_headease_sample.svg "Effect van deze optie op het patroon")
![Deze afbeelding toont het effect van deze optie door meerdere varianten die een andere waarde hebben voor deze optie te vervangen](holmes_headease_sample.svg "Effect van deze optie op het patroon")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Längenverhältnis
Controls the length of the crown and ear flaps
## Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster
![Dieses Bild zeigt den Effekt dieser Option, indem es mehrere Varianten überlagert, die einen anderen Wert für diese Option haben](holmes_lengthratio_sample.svg "Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster")
![Dieses Bild zeigt den Effekt dieser Option, indem es mehrere Varianten überlagert, die einen anderen Wert für diese Option haben](holmes_lengthratio_sample.svg "Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Length ratio
Controls the length of the crown and ear flaps
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_lengthratio_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_lengthratio_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Ratio de longitud
Controls the length of the crown and ear flaps
## Efecto de esta opción en el patrón
![Esta imagen muestra el efecto de esta opción superponiendo varias variantes que tienen un valor diferente para esta opción](holmes_lengthratio_sample.svg "Efecto de esta opción en el patrón")
![Esta imagen muestra el efecto de esta opción superponiendo varias variantes que tienen un valor diferente para esta opción](holmes_lengthratio_sample.svg "Efecto de esta opción en el patrón")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Profondeur de tête
Controls the length of the crown and ear flaps
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
![Cette image montre l'effet de cette option en superposant plusieurs variantes qui ont une valeur différente pour cette option](holmes_lengthratio_sample.svg "Effet de cette option sur le motif")
![Cette image montre l'effet de cette option en superposant plusieurs variantes qui ont une valeur différente pour cette option](holmes_lengthratio_sample.svg "Effet de cette option sur le motif")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Lengteratio
Controls the length of the crown and ear flaps
## Effect van deze optie op het patroon
![Deze afbeelding toont het effect van deze optie door meerdere varianten die een andere waarde hebben voor deze optie te vervangen](holmes_lengthratio_sample.svg "Effect van deze optie op het patroon")
![Deze afbeelding toont het effect van deze optie door meerdere varianten die een andere waarde hebben voor deze optie te vervangen](holmes_lengthratio_sample.svg "Effect van deze optie op het patroon")

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@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
- - -
- - -
***
***
<PatternOptions pattern='holmes' />

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Visor angle
The arc angle used to draft the inner curve of the visor
## Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster
![Dieses Bild zeigt den Effekt dieser Option, indem es mehrere Varianten überlagert, die einen anderen Wert für diese Option haben](holmes\_visorangle\_sample.svg "Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster")
![Dieses Bild zeigt den Effekt dieser Option, indem es mehrere Varianten überlagert, die einen anderen Wert für diese Option haben](holmes_visorangle_sample.svg "Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Visor angle
The arc angle used to draft the inner curve of the visor
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes\_visorangle\_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_visorangle_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Visor angle
The arc angle used to draft the inner curve of the visor
## Efecto de esta opción en el patrón
![Esta imagen muestra el efecto de esta opción superponiendo varias variantes que tienen un valor diferente para esta opción](holmes\_visorangle\_sample.svg "Efecto de esta opción en el patrón")
![Esta imagen muestra el efecto de esta opción superponiendo varias variantes que tienen un valor diferente para esta opción](holmes_visorangle_sample.svg "Efecto de esta opción en el patrón")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Visor angle
The arc angle used to draft the inner curve of the visor
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
![Cette image montre l'effet de cette option en superposant plusieurs variantes qui ont une valeur différente pour cette option](holmes\_visorangle\_sample.svg "Effet de cette option sur le motif")
![Cette image montre l'effet de cette option en superposant plusieurs variantes qui ont une valeur différente pour cette option](holmes_visorangle_sample.svg "Effet de cette option sur le motif")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Visor hoek
The arc angle used to draft the inner curve of the visor
## Effect van deze optie op het patroon
![Deze afbeelding toont het effect van deze optie door meerdere varianten die een andere waarde hebben voor deze optie te vervangen](holmes\_visorangle\_sample.svg "Effect van deze optie op het patroon")
![Deze afbeelding toont het effect van deze optie door meerdere varianten die een andere waarde hebben voor deze optie te vervangen](holmes_visorangle_sample.svg "Effect van deze optie op het patroon")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Visor length
- - -
***
Controls the length of the visor
## Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster
![Dieses Bild zeigt den Effekt dieser Option, indem es mehrere Varianten überlagert, die einen anderen Wert für diese Option haben](holmes_visorlength_sample.svg "Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Visor length
Controls the length of the visor
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_visorlength_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Visor length
- - -
***
Controls the length of the visor
## Efecto de esta opción en el patrón
![Esta imagen muestra el efecto de esta opción superponiendo varias variantes que tienen un valor diferente para esta opción](holmes_visorlength_sample.svg "Efecto de esta opción en el patrón")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Visor length
- - -
***
Controls the length of the visor
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
![Cette image montre l'effet de cette option en superposant plusieurs variantes qui ont une valeur différente pour cette option](holmes_visorlength_sample.svg "Effet de cette option sur le motif")

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@ -1,9 +1,11 @@
- - -
***
title: Visor length
- - -
***
Bepaalt de lengte van de visor
## Effect van deze optie op het patroon
![Deze afbeelding toont het effect van deze optie door meerdere varianten die een andere waarde hebben voor deze optie te vervangen](holmes_visorlength_sample.svg "Effect van deze optie op het patroon")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Visor width
Controls the width of the visor
## Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster
![Dieses Bild zeigt den Effekt dieser Option, indem es mehrere Varianten überlagert, die einen anderen Wert für diese Option haben](holmes\_visorwidth\_sample.svg "Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster")
![Dieses Bild zeigt den Effekt dieser Option, indem es mehrere Varianten überlagert, die einen anderen Wert für diese Option haben](holmes_visorwidth_sample.svg "Effekt dieser Option auf das Schnittmuster")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Visor width
Controls the width of the visor
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes\_visorwidth\_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_visorwidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Visor width
Controls the width of the visor
## Efecto de esta opción en el patrón
![Esta imagen muestra el efecto de esta opción superponiendo varias variantes que tienen un valor diferente para esta opción](holmes\_visorwidth\_sample.svg "Efecto de esta opción en el patrón")
![Esta imagen muestra el efecto de esta opción superponiendo varias variantes que tienen un valor diferente para esta opción](holmes_visorwidth_sample.svg "Efecto de esta opción en el patrón")

View file

@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Visor width
Controls the width of the visor
## Effet de cette option sur le motif
![Cette image montre l'effet de cette option en superposant plusieurs variantes qui ont une valeur différente pour cette option](holmes\_visorwidth\_sample.svg "Effet de cette option sur le motif")
![Cette image montre l'effet de cette option en superposant plusieurs variantes qui ont une valeur différente pour cette option](holmes_visorwidth_sample.svg "Effet de cette option sur le motif")

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@ -4,6 +4,6 @@ title: Visor breedte
Bepaalt de breedte van de visor
## Effect van deze optie op het patroon
![Deze afbeelding toont het effect van deze optie door meerdere varianten die een andere waarde hebben voor deze optie te vervangen](holmes\_visorwidth\_sample.svg "Effect van deze optie op het patroon")
![Deze afbeelding toont het effect van deze optie door meerdere varianten die een andere waarde hebben voor deze optie te vervangen](holmes_visorwidth_sample.svg "Effect van deze optie op het patroon")