chore: Ported pattern docs fro designs by Wouter (#7222)
Merging these docs, most of the work was done by @woutervdub
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120
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/instructions/readme.mdx
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sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/instructions/readme.mdx
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---
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title: 'Cornelius cycling breeches: Sewing Instructions'
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sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
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sidebar_position: 20
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---
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### Step 1: The Front Pockets
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- Press under the seam allowances of the non-notched edges of the pocket facings.
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- Matching notches, pin the wrong sides of pocket facings to right side of pocket bags, _Edgestitch_ the folded edges to the pocket bags.
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- _Baste_ the seam allowances of the notched edges of the pocket facings to the pocket bags.
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- With right sides together, matching both notches, sew the pocket bags to the front and then press to the wrong side.
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- Fold the pockets in half along the fold line, right sides together. Stitch the bottom of the pocket bag together.
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- Alternatively you can _French Seam_ the bottom seams of the pocket bags together if you prefer.
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- _Baste_ the top and side of the pocket bags to the front seam allowances matching notches.
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:::note
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Going forward the pockets and fronts will just be referred to as the fronts.
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:::
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### Step 2: The Fly
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- With right sides together, from the top _Baste_ along the fly line stopping at the notch on the crotch seam.
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- From where you left off with basting, stitch the crotch seam together making sure to secure your stitches where the basting ends.
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- Press open the fly and seam.
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- Lay the fronts down wrong side up so the right sides of the fly flaps are facing you.
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- Lay zipper face up on the front flaps, with the left side of the zipper touching the seam, with the bottom of the right zipper tape on the curved flap.
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- Sew the right zipper tape to the right flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
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- Pull the zipper to the left so the right flap is pulled over.
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- Pin the left zipper tape to the left flap.
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- Sew the left zipper tape to left flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
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- Fold the zipper guard in half wrong sides together.
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- Lay the zipper guard on the right flap, right sides touching.
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- Sew the zipper guard to the right flap, _Finish_ the right side to your liking.
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- _Finish_ the left side of the left flap to your liking.
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- Unpick the basted part of the front seam.
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- _Topstitch_ the right flap down, away from the now unpicked seam, as far down as you can.
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- Pin/_Baste_ the zipper protector over to the right side to keep it out of the way for the next step
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- On the outside side, sew the left flap down to the left, following the curved line.
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- On the outside side, _Bar-Tack_ where you like them for reinforcement.
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:::tip
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When sewing the left flap down on the outside, you may find it best to make a template to help you.
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:::
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:::note
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If you wish to orientate the fly the other way change the left to right and right to left in the steps above.
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If wanting something more historical than omit the zipper and make a buttonhole fly instead.
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:::
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### Step 3: Attaching the front to the back
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- With right sides together sew the back pieces together along the back seam.
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- With right sides together sew the front and back together at the side seams and inner leg seam. Making sure to leave a gap below the notches at the bottom of the side seams. The gap will be referred to as the list when going forward.
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### Step 4: Leg bands
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Use the method of the cuff style you chose as they are different depending on which style you are using.
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#### Traditional and Elegant
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- _Finish_ the raw edges of the slits.
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- Press the seam allowances of the slits to the wrongs sides. Stitch in place.
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- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
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- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
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- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
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- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
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- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
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- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitching.
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- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
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:::note
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If you are worried about a draft you can create a triangle piece of fabric that sits behind the slits out of your pocket fabric. Attaching it before Step 3 to one of the sides of the slits.
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:::
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#### Keystone
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- If using construct plackets for the leg slits.
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- Sew the plackets to the leg slits similar to how you would sew a sleeve cuff on a shirt.
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- Close the darts on the leg band pieces.
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- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
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- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
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- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
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- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
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- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
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- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitching.
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- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
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:::note
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If you are worried about a draft you will need to construct plackets for the leg slits.
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:::
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:::note
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**For both Keystone, Traditional and Elegant Styles**
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You can _Edgestitch_ the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
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:::
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### Step 5: Waistband
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- Face one of the waistband pieces using your preferred method.
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- Sew the faced waistband piece to the top of the legs right sides together.
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- Press the waistband and seam allowance up and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
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- Press the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining waistband piece. Trim the bottom seam allowance.
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- With right sides together sew the remaining waistband to the faced waistband along the top and sides.
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- Turn the waistband out. Press.
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- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitching.
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- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
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:::note
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You can _Edgestitch_ the waistband together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
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:::
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### Step 6: Buttons
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- Sew the waistband and leg band buttons on.
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### Step 7: Enjoy!
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You're all done! Now go have a ride in your brilliant new cycling breeches!
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---
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title: 'Cuff below knee'
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sidebar_class_name: hidden
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---
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Controls how far the cuff will sit below your knee.
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---
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title: 'Cuff Style'
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sidebar_class_name: hidden
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---
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This pattern supports three different cuff styles:
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- **Traditional**: A single buttoned _curved_ band with a pointed edge.
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- **Elegant**: A single buttoned _straight_ band with a pointed edge.
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- **Keystone**: A slightly curved band that is wider than the others using 3 buttons rather than 1. This one is based of off the one in the Keystone Draft this pattern is based on.
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---
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title: 'Cuff width'
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sidebar_class_name: hidden
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---
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Controls the width of the cuff.
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---
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title: 'Fly guard width'
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sidebar_class_name: hidden
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---
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Controls the width of fly guard.
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---
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title: 'Fullness'
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sidebar_class_name: hidden
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---
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Influences the ease on the legs for a looser style.
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---
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title: 'Cuff Length'
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sidebar_class_name: hidden
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---
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Controls the length of the cuff.
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111
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/readme.mdx
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111
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/readme.mdx
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---
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title: "Cornelius cycling breeches: Design Options"
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sidebar_label: Design Options
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sidebar_position: 10
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toc_max_heading_level: 5
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---
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import Bandbelowknee from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/bandbelowknee/readme.mdx'
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import Cuffstyle from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/readme.mdx'
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import Cuffwidth from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/cuffwidth/readme.mdx'
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import Flywidth from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/flywidth/readme.mdx'
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import Fullness from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/fullness/readme.mdx'
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import Kneetobelow from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/kneetobelow/readme.mdx'
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import Ventlength from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/ventlength/readme.mdx'
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import Waistreduction from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx'
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import Waistbandbelowwaist from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/waistbandbelowwaist/readme.mdx'
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## Fit {#fit}
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### Fullness of the legs {#fullness}
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**Influences the ease on the legs for a looser style**
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- Type: **Percentage**
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- Default: **0%**
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- Minimum: **0%**
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- Maximum: **55%**
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<Fullness />
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### Waist reduction {#waistreduction}
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**Percentage to reduce the waistband**
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- Type: **Percentage**
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- Default: **1%**
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- Minimum: **-2%**
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- Maximum: **10%**
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<Waistreduction />
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## Style {#style}
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### Cuff style {#cuffstyle}
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**Style of the leg cuff**
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- Type: **List**
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- Default: **elegant**
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- options:
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- traditional
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- elegant
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- keystone
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<Cuffstyle />
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### Cuff width {#cuffwidth}
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**Width of the leg cuff**
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- Type: **Percentage**
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- Default: **0%**
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- Minimum: **-50%**
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- Maximum: **150%**
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<Cuffwidth />
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### Fly Guard width {#flywidth}
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**Width of the fly guard**
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- Type: **Percentage**
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- Default: **0.38%**
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- Minimum: **0.2%**
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- Maximum: **0.6%**
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<Flywidth />
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### Vent length {#ventlength}
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**Controls the length of the vent between knee and cuff**
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- Type: **Percentage**
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- Default: **70%**
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- Minimum: **25%**
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- Maximum: **110%**
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<Ventlength />
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### Lower waistband {#waistbandbelowwaist}
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**Percentage to move the waistband below the actual waist**
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- Type: **Percentage**
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- Default: **5%**
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- Minimum: **0%**
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- Maximum: **15%**
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<Waistbandbelowwaist />
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## Advanced {#advanced}
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### Cuff below knee {#bandbelowknee}
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**Controls the cuff distance from the knee**
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- Type: **Percentage**
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- Default: **25%**
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- Minimum: **15%**
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- Maximum: **50%**
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<Bandbelowknee />
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### Cuff length {#kneetobelow}
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**Controls the tightness of the cuff as compared to the knee**
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- Type: **Percentage**
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- Default: **94%**
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- Minimum: **85%**
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- Maximum: **110%**
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<Kneetobelow />
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---
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title: 'Vent Length'
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sidebar_class_name: hidden
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---
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Controls the length of vent between cuff and knee.
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---
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title: 'Lower waistband'
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sidebar_class_name: hidden
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---
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This option allows you to lower the waistband below your (natural) waist.
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---
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title: 'Waist reduction'
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sidebar_class_name: hidden
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---
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Reduces the waist for a more snug fit.
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132
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/readme.mdx
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132
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/readme.mdx
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---
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title: 'Cornelius cycling breeches'
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sidebar_label: Cornelius cycling breeches
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---
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<DesignInfo design="cornelius" />
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## Designer Notes {#notes}
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When I was a child my dad would tell me stories about hiking in the mountains,
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something magical for a kid living in The Netherlands. He had a suitcase with
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his mountaineering things in it, and part of that were some 'knickerbockers',
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baggy trousers that reached down to your calves.
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When I moved to the USA in my thirties and started hiking myself, I would often
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reflect on those talks and felt sad that I didn't inherit those knickerbockers.
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Then when I discovered sewing, I decided I would make myself a pair, but no
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good patterns presented themselves.
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Then someone on the Freesewing discord server posted a link to The 'Keystone'
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Systems, Practical methods of cutting, from around the turn of the century.
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This contained a drafting system for 'Cycling Breeches', which seemed to be
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close to what my father used to wear, and could be translated into a Freesewing
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pattern. A project was born, and I'm happy to be able to present the results to
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you.
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These are not designed as hiking breeches, but cycling breeches. That's close
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enough for me. They work for either activity, and have many more uses.
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Wouter
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## What You Need {#needs}
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To make Cornelius, you will need the following:
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- Basic sewing supplies
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- About 2 metres (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric
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options](#fabric))
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- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Fabric options](#fabric))
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- Interfacing for the waistband ([see Fabric options](#fabric))
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- A zip or 3 buttons for the fly
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- 3 or 7 Buttons for waistband and leg bands
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:::tip
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The number of buttons you need are dependent on the cuff style you are using.
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**Keystone** requires 7 in total whereas **Traditional** and **Elegant**
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require 3 in total. You may also want to use smaller buttons for the leg bands
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compared to the waistband but this is up to you.
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:::
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## Fabric Options {#fabric}
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### Main Fabric
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Any **bottom (trouser) weight material** will work fine for this pattern.
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Generally you want to avoid anything that is over 7oz (230gsm) as this will
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more likely be too stiff and uncomfortable. You want something that provides a
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bit of warmth whilst still being able to drape such as **Corduroy** or **Medium
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Weight Suiting** fabrics. If you are looking for something more historically
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correct, then **Medium weight wool suiting** is the way to go. **Linen** is
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also an option, especially if you would like something that isn't too warm.
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:::warning
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Remember that this garment is intended for cycling so needs to be able to move
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with your legs when pedalling!
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:::
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### Lining (Pocket) Fabric
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Basic **Cotton** will do the trick for the pocket bags. If you got left over
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cotton from another project you can easily use it up for these pockets.
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Remember that these are intended for cycling so you don't want anything too
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fancy.
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:::tip
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If you have anything you typically use for pockets in trousers that will work.
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too.
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:::
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### Interfacing
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This pattern requires the waistband to be interfaced. We recommend using a
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**Hair Cloth** for the interfacing, you can either use fusible or non-fusible
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which ever you prefer. If you do not have access to hair cloth you can use any
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medium to firm interfacing you deem appropriate for waistbands.
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:::tip
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If your main fabric is quite light, you may need to interface your leg bands
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and zipper guard with a light weight interfacing.
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:::
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## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
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### Materials
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- **Main fabric**
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- Cut **2 back** parts
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- Cut **2 front** parts
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- Cut **2 pocket facing** parts
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- Cut **2 waistband** parts on the fold
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- Cut **4 leg band** parts
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- Cut **1 zipper guard** part on the fold
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- **Lining (Pocket) fabric**
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- Cut **2 pocket** parts
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- **Interfacing**
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- Cut **1 waistband** part on the fold
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:::tip
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If your main fabric is quite lightweight and flimsy you may need to interface
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the leg bands with a light interfacing.
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:::
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## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
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### Materials
|
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- **Main fabric**
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- Cut **2 back** parts
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||||
- Cut **2 front** parts
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- Cut **2 pocket facing** parts
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- Cut **2 waistband** parts on the fold
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- Cut **4 leg band** parts
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- Cut **1 zipper guard** part on the fold
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- **Lining (Pocket) fabric**
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- Cut **2 pocket** parts
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- **Interfacing**
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- Cut **1 waistband** part on the fold
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:::tip
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||||
If your main fabric is quite lightweight and flimsy you may need to interface
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the leg bands with a light interfacing.
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:::
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||||
17
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/gozer/instructions/readme.mdx
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17
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/gozer/instructions/readme.mdx
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---
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||||
title: 'Gozer the ghost: Sewing Instructions'
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sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
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sidebar_position: 20
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---
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||||
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||||
### Step 1: The eyes
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||||
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||||
- Cut holes where marked.
|
||||
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||||
### Step 2: The body
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||||
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||||
- Hem the body
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||||
### Step 3: Enjoy!
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||||
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||||
That's it, you are all done. Put it on and scare the neighborhood.
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||||
37
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/gozer/readme.mdx
Normal file
37
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/gozer/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,37 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Gozer the ghost'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Gozer the ghost
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
<DesignInfo design="gozer" />
|
||||
|
||||
## Designer Notes {#notes}
|
||||
|
||||
WNot quite sure what to say about this. It was three weeks or so before Halloween, and I was
|
||||
working on a different pattern. Then the thought of a traditional ghost costume popped
|
||||
into my head.
|
||||
|
||||
So as a joke I made this, just so I could post it on the discord server. And then Joost asked
|
||||
where the pattern was. So I posted it. And he published it.
|
||||
|
||||
Wouter
|
||||
|
||||
## What You Need {#needs}
|
||||
|
||||
To make Gozer, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
|
||||
- About 1 bed sheet
|
||||
|
||||
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
|
||||
|
||||
### Main Fabric
|
||||
|
||||
Traditionally, white sheets are used.
|
||||
|
||||
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
|
||||
|
||||
### Materials
|
||||
|
||||
- **Color 1; Traditionally white**
|
||||
- Cut **1 Body**
|
||||
65
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/instructions/readme.mdx
Normal file
65
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/instructions/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,65 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Hi the shark: Sewing Instructions'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
|
||||
sidebar_position: 20
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
When you're using fabric with some stretch in it, it is a good idea to stabilize the seams that go along the whole body, and between the body and the belly, with some stabilizing ribbon.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 1: The eyes
|
||||
|
||||
- Cut pieces of black fabric the size of the eyes on the body pieces.
|
||||
- Stabilise the fabric with a bit of interfacing.
|
||||
- With white thread, either by hand or machine _bar tack_ the pupils onto the eyes like eyelets.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
If stitching the pupil by machine you may find it easier to use either the eyelet function or a buttonholer that does eyelets if one of those are available to you. If not you may find it best to hand stitch the pupil for better control and neatness.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
- With orange thread, _bar tack_ around the edge of the eyes.
|
||||
- If the fabric you are using frays, fray check the edges.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
The colour choices are up to you, but these are the recommended colours.
|
||||
|
||||
If you wish to make an embroidered eye we recommended to make it an embroidery patch rather than embroidering directly on the fabric itself as screwing up will not result in a larger quantity of fabric being wasted.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 2: The Upper body
|
||||
|
||||
- Using topstiching thread (thick thread), go back and forth several times along the gill lines of the body pieces.
|
||||
- _Edgestitch_ the eyes to the body pieces, matching the thread colour of the outer bar tacks.
|
||||
- Sew the darts on the front of both body pieces closed. Trim away any excess fabric.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the tail pieces to the body pieces, matching notches.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the topFin pieces to the body pieces.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
It's worth double-checking that you are using the proper fin pieces, as Hi's pectoral (or side) fins have a similar topFin and bottomFin piece. The topFin should have a slightly convex curve along the edge where it meets the body, while the bottomFin is slightly concave. (The dorsal fin, or the fin along the shark's back that sticks out of the water when swimming, is incorporated into the body pieces, so you will create that in the next step.)
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the body pieces together along the front, top, around the tail and below the tail, leaving a gap open below the tail for turning and stuffing the shark later.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 3: The Belly
|
||||
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the two aboveMouth pieces together along the larger straight edge.
|
||||
- Sew the teeth pieces to the mouth, matching notches and making sure the teeth face towards the centre of the mouth. These will now be treated as one.
|
||||
- Sew the darts on the belly, trim away any excess fabric.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the aboveMouth pieces to the mouth, matching notches, being careful not to catch the teeth in the seam allowances.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the joined mouth and aboveMouth to the belly piece, matching notches.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the bottomFin pieces to the belly, matching notches.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 4: Final Assembly
|
||||
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the belly to the body, matching the front, back, and fins.
|
||||
- Turn though the gap left below the tail.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 5: Stuffing
|
||||
|
||||
- Fill the plush toy with stuffing through the opening you left below the tail, making sure to fill the tail and fins well before adding too much stuffing in the body itself.
|
||||
- _Slipsticth_ or _whipstitch_ the opening closed.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 6: Enjoy!
|
||||
|
||||
That's it you are all done now go adventure the oceans with your new Hi!
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Aggressive'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Your Hi can come in the default sweet form, or in a more aggressive
|
||||
version with more authentic teeth, and a mean look.
|
||||
7
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/hungry/readme.mdx
Normal file
7
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/hungry/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Hungry'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This setting determines how long it has been since your Hi has had
|
||||
something to eat. More hungry results in a leaner shark.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Pointiness of the nose'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The shark can be made with a more blunt, or sharper nose,
|
||||
depending on your preference.
|
||||
50
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
50
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,50 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: "Hi the shark: Design Options"
|
||||
sidebar_label: Design Options
|
||||
sidebar_position: 10
|
||||
toc_max_heading_level: 5
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import Aggressive from '@site/docs/designs/hi/options/aggressive/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Hungry from '@site/docs/designs/hi/options/hungry/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Nosepointiness from '@site/docs/designs/hi/options/nosepointiness/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Size from '@site/docs/designs/hi/options/size/readme.mdx'
|
||||
|
||||
## Style {#style}
|
||||
### Aggressive {#aggressive}
|
||||
|
||||
**Give Hi pointy teeth, or not**
|
||||
- Type: **Boolean**
|
||||
- Default: **false**
|
||||
|
||||
<Aggressive />
|
||||
|
||||
### Hungry {#hungry}
|
||||
|
||||
**Changes the belly shape to convey if Hi has just eaten**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **50%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **0%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **100%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Hungry />
|
||||
|
||||
### Nose pointiness {#nosepointiness}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls how pointy Hi's nose is**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **0%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **-5%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **10%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Nosepointiness />
|
||||
|
||||
### Size {#size}
|
||||
|
||||
**Sharks come in all sizes, and so does Hi**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **100%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **5%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **500%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Size />
|
||||
7
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/size/readme.mdx
Normal file
7
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/size/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Sizego'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Hi can be made in different sizes. The default is about a meter in length.
|
||||
This is a percentage of this default length.
|
||||
102
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/readme.mdx
Normal file
102
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,102 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Hi the shark'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Hi the shark
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
<DesignInfo design="hi" />
|
||||
|
||||
## Designer Notes {#notes}
|
||||
|
||||
Hi! This has quite a story behind it.
|
||||
|
||||
A while ago rumours started swirling that IKEA would discontinue it's Blåhaj
|
||||
stuffed shark, which is a universally beloved toy. The FreeSewing community was
|
||||
quite agitated by this prospect. No one wanted to see the worlds friendliest
|
||||
shark becoming extinct. And neither did I.
|
||||
|
||||
It turned out that no one in the community had ever taken a Blåhaj apart, and
|
||||
no one had the courage to do so. The only Blåhaj in my household was my
|
||||
daughter's, and I couldn't touch that one.
|
||||
|
||||
This seemed like a great project to work on, and the lack of a Blåhaj was not
|
||||
an insurmountable obstacle. So one day I made a trip to Ikea, and bought me my
|
||||
own shark. I took the seam ripper to the poor animal, and transferred it's
|
||||
innards to a sterile bag. The individual pieces were traced, scanned, and used
|
||||
in InkScape to generate a fully functional shark pattern.
|
||||
|
||||
It can be scaled up and down between 50 cm and 5 meter. So there is a shark for
|
||||
everyone.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
Ikea did not discontinue Blåhaj, and you can still get the blue shark. But if
|
||||
you want one in a different colour, you're at the right spot.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
## What You Need {#needs}
|
||||
|
||||
To make Hi, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
|
||||
- About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable fabric (Upper body) (see [Fabric
|
||||
options](#fabric))
|
||||
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric (Belly) ([see [Fabric
|
||||
options](#fabric))
|
||||
- Small piece for the mouth
|
||||
- Small piece of fabric for eyes
|
||||
- Suitable, unraveling, fabric for the teeth
|
||||
- Stuffing
|
||||
- Topstiching thread (thick thread) for gills
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
This list is based on a default Hi and you may need less or more fabric
|
||||
dependant on the [size you are making Hi](/docs/designs/hi/options/size/).
|
||||
|
||||
For instance a 500% Hi will need 5 meters (1 meter x 500% = 5 meters) and a 50%
|
||||
Hi will need 0.5 meters (1 meter x 50% = 0.5 meters).
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
|
||||
|
||||
### Main and Contrast Body Fabrics (Upper body, belly and mouth)
|
||||
|
||||
This plush toy is intended to have three different coloured fabrics, one for
|
||||
the upper body, one for the belly, and a smaller piece for the mouth. If you
|
||||
don't wish to purchase additional fabric just for the mouth, it's a small
|
||||
enough piece that you can likely use a scrap from the upper body or belly
|
||||
fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
Hi is designed for faux fur fabric, which most plush toys are made from, but
|
||||
you could also use polar fleece, felt, denim, corduroy, or anything moderately
|
||||
heavy. Lightweight or drapey fabrics may not hold Hi's shape well when stuffed.
|
||||
Fabrics with a two-way stretch will work better than wovens, the stretch should
|
||||
be perpendicular to the grainline.
|
||||
|
||||
### Teeth Fabric
|
||||
|
||||
The teeth edges are left raw, so should be made from a fabric that does not
|
||||
unravel such as felt.
|
||||
|
||||
### Stuffing
|
||||
|
||||
Since this is a plush toy, it will need to be stuffed with material. Most of
|
||||
the time you'll want to use polyester fiberfill (polyfill), but if you have a
|
||||
lot of fabric scraps, you can use shredded scrap fabric. However this may be
|
||||
heavier and less soft than fiberfill. It's also worth thinking about whether
|
||||
your Hi may be at risk of getting dirty, or want to go for a swim, as not all
|
||||
stuffing options are washable.
|
||||
|
||||
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
|
||||
|
||||
- **Color 1 (Upper body; Traditionally blue)**
|
||||
- Cut **2 Body**
|
||||
- Cut **2 Tail**
|
||||
- Cut **2 Top Fin**
|
||||
- Cut **2 Bottom Fin**
|
||||
- **Color 2 (Belly; Traditionally white)**
|
||||
- Cut **1 Belly**
|
||||
- Cut **2 Above Mouth**
|
||||
- **Color 3 (Mouth; Traditionally pink)**
|
||||
- Cut **1 Mouth**
|
||||
- **Color 4 (Teeth; Traditionally white)**
|
||||
- Cut **1 Upper Teeth**
|
||||
- Cut **1 Lower Teeth**
|
||||
87
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/instructions/readme.mdx
Normal file
87
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/instructions/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,87 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Hortensia handbag: Sewing Instructions'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
|
||||
sidebar_position: 20
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### (Optional) Step 1: Face the main fabric
|
||||
|
||||
- If needed, Interface your main fabric pieces.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 2: Sew the front and back panels to the bottom
|
||||
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the front and back panels to the bottom panel.
|
||||
- Press the seam allowances towards the bottom panel.
|
||||
- On the outside _Edgestitch_ the seam allowance to the bottom panel.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 3: Create and attach straps
|
||||
|
||||
- If needed, face your straps.
|
||||
- Fold the straps in half lengthwise with _good sides matching_.
|
||||
- Sew the raw edges together making sure to leave a gap for turning.
|
||||
- Turn inside out.
|
||||
- _Slipstich_ the opening closed.
|
||||
- Alternatively _Edgestitch_ all the edges.
|
||||
- Attach one strap to the front panel and one strap to the back panel by sewing a rectangle and a cross.
|
||||
|
||||
:::warning
|
||||
The placement of the straps are not on the pattern and need to be determined. You may need to baste the zipper panel to the front and back panels to help figure out the placement.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
If using bag strap webbing instead of fabric made straps do the following,
|
||||
|
||||
- Cut the webbing to the length of the straps with seam allowance.
|
||||
- Press under the short edge seam allowance.
|
||||
- Attach the webbing the same way as the fabric straps.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 4: The zipper
|
||||
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew a zipper panel to each side of the zipper. We will now refer to this as **the zipper panel**.
|
||||
|
||||
### (Optional) Step 5: Construct tabs.
|
||||
|
||||
- Construct tabs the same as the straps just shorter.
|
||||
- _Baste_ the tabs _good sides together_ to the short edges of the zipper panel so the tabs face inward.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
We recommend the tabs to be about a quarter length of the straps.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 6: Attach the zipper panel
|
||||
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the zipper panel to the front and pack panels. We will now refer to this as **the tube**.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 7: Prep the side panels
|
||||
|
||||
- Press under the top seam allowance of the side panel reinforcement parts.
|
||||
- Place the side panel reinforcement parts on top of the side panels matching the raw edges.
|
||||
- _Edgestitch_ the folded edge of the reinforcement parts to the side panels.
|
||||
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 8: Attach the side panels to the tube
|
||||
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the side panels to the tube matching notches to the bottom and zipper panel seams.
|
||||
- If binding the edges rather than turning, sew with _wrong sides together_ instead.
|
||||
- If not binding the edges leave a gap in one of the sides for turning.
|
||||
- Turn inside out and _Slipstich_ the opening closed.
|
||||
- If sewn _wrong sides together_ bind the raw edges of the side panels.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
It is recommended to leave the gap for turning on the side rather than the top or bottom as it needs less reinforcement.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 9: Lining
|
||||
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the front and back lining panels to the bottom lining panel.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ attach the lining side panels.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ attach the lining zipper panels to the side panels.
|
||||
- Press under the top seam allowances.
|
||||
- Alternatively you can bind the top edges.
|
||||
- Place the lining inside the bag _wrong sides facing_ each other.
|
||||
- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the lining to the sides of the zipper.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 10: Enjoy!
|
||||
|
||||
That's it! You are all done! Now go enjoy you new bag!
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Handle width'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the width of the handle.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
Turn on paperless to see the width of the handle.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
59
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
59
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,59 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: "Hortensia handbag: Design Options"
|
||||
sidebar_label: Design Options
|
||||
sidebar_position: 10
|
||||
toc_max_heading_level: 5
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import Handlewidth from '@site/docs/designs/hortensia/options/handlewidth/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Size from '@site/docs/designs/hortensia/options/size/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Straplength from '@site/docs/designs/hortensia/options/straplength/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Zippersize from '@site/docs/designs/hortensia/options/zippersize/readme.mdx'
|
||||
|
||||
## Style {#style}
|
||||
### Handle width {#handlewidth}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the width of the handle**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **8.6%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **4%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **25%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Handlewidth />
|
||||
|
||||
### Size {#size}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the overall size of the handbag**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **50%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **20%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **200%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Size />
|
||||
|
||||
### Strap length {#straplength}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the length of the strap**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **160%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **75%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **250%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Straplength />
|
||||
|
||||
### Zipper size {#zippersize}
|
||||
|
||||
**Which size of zipper to use**
|
||||
- Type: **List**
|
||||
- Default: **#5**
|
||||
- options:
|
||||
- #3
|
||||
- #4
|
||||
- #4.5
|
||||
- #5
|
||||
- #6
|
||||
- #8
|
||||
- #10
|
||||
- invisible
|
||||
|
||||
<Zippersize />
|
||||
21
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/size/readme.mdx
Normal file
21
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/size/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,21 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Size'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the overall size of the handbag.
|
||||
|
||||
Rather than using measurements, Hortensia's size is determined by scaling fixed values.
|
||||
|
||||
- 20% : Will scale these values by 0.2
|
||||
- 200% : Will scale these values by 2
|
||||
|
||||
The two fixed values that are used the most are Width: 23cm and Height: 33cm.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
So an example of this would be the default, which is 50%. This would scale the values by 0.5 resulting in a handbag that is 11.5cm (23cm x 0.5) in width and 16.5cm (33cm x 0.5) in height.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
Turn on paperless to see the measurements of the handbag. This will help you to determine the size you want and see the effects of this option.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Strap length'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the length of the strap.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
Turn on paperless to see the length of the strap.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,27 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Zipper size'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
What size zipper the pattern uses to draft.
|
||||
|
||||
This determines how wide the zipper panel will be by inserting the zipper size into the panel.
|
||||
|
||||
The sizes are based off of the brand YKK's zippers and refers to the width of the zipper coils.
|
||||
|
||||
Size guide for Hortensia:
|
||||
|
||||
| Option | Size in Millimetres (mm) |
|
||||
| ---------- | ------------------------ |
|
||||
| #Invisible | 0 |
|
||||
| #3 | 4.8 |
|
||||
| #4 | 5.4 |
|
||||
| #4.5 | 5.9 |
|
||||
| #5 | 6.2 |
|
||||
| #6 | 7 |
|
||||
| #8 | 8 |
|
||||
| #10 | 10.6 |
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
If in doubt, or if the size of your zipper is unavailable use the size that is slightly wider. This means you will have a wider zipper panel than needed but it is better than one that is not wide enough.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
91
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/readme.mdx
Normal file
91
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,91 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Hortensia handbag'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Hortensia handbag
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
<DesignInfo design="hortensia" />
|
||||
|
||||
## Designer Notes {#notes}
|
||||
|
||||
This is a collaboration between Stoffsuchti and me. She designed the bag and
|
||||
needed someone to turn it into code for FreeSewing. I happily obliged, and this
|
||||
is the result.
|
||||
|
||||
## What You Need {#needs}
|
||||
|
||||
To make Hortensia, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- Basic sewing supplies
|
||||
- About 0.5 - 2 metres (0.6 - 2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric
|
||||
Options](#fabric))
|
||||
- About 0.5 - 2 metres (0.6 - 2.2 yards) of lining fabric (see [Fabric
|
||||
Options](#fabric))
|
||||
- A zipper the length of the zipper panels and matching the [coil
|
||||
width](/docs/designs/hortensia/options/zippersize/) selected
|
||||
- (Optional) About 1 - 2 metres (1.1 - 2.2 yards) of bias binding if you want
|
||||
to bind the side panel edges on the outside.
|
||||
- (Optional) Bag strap webbing double the length of the strap part with seam
|
||||
allowance and similar width if you don't wish to make your own straps
|
||||
- (Optional) Interfacing if needed to strengthen fabric and/or for the strap
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
The amount of fabric you need depends on [Hortensia's size
|
||||
option](/docs/designs/hortensia/options#size). If you are uncertain of how much
|
||||
you need turn on paperless mode whilst viewing the pattern and add the bottom
|
||||
measures of Part 1 SidePanel, Part 2 FrontBackPanel and Part 3 BottomPanel to
|
||||
give yourself a rough estimate.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
|
||||
|
||||
The key fabric choices for Hortensia are non-stretch, durable and strong enough
|
||||
to hold items.
|
||||
|
||||
Your main fabric choice ultimately comes down to your personal style and what
|
||||
you wish to use your handbag for. Due to Hortensia having a size option it can
|
||||
also be enlarged and used for things such as a gym bag which does not need to
|
||||
be as fancy as an upmarket handbag. So you may just simply want to go with
|
||||
**Cottons**, **Linens** or have a little fun with **Printed Cottons**. If you
|
||||
want something more fancy you can try going for **Brocades** and other luxe
|
||||
fabrics. If you want something that will be very durable you can try
|
||||
**Upholstery fabrics**. You can also try **Leather** but this will be harder to
|
||||
sew especially if it is thick so only use it if you know what you are doing.
|
||||
Remember if you wish to use it all the time, favour practicality over design,
|
||||
as the goal should be to make it last rather than make it fancy. If you do not
|
||||
care about the look at all then this may be an opportunity to use up fabric
|
||||
from your stash that you otherwise would not such as that ugly fabric you can
|
||||
never find a use for.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
If you find that the fabric you want to use is a bit too thin or flimsy you can
|
||||
interface the pieces to give then strength.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Lining Fabric
|
||||
|
||||
On the flipside the lining does not need to be as strong and simply needs to
|
||||
cover the raw seams and protect the outer fabric. If you want something fancy
|
||||
you can go for **Silks** and **Satins** but **Cotton** linings will do just as
|
||||
well. Bear in mind what you intend to store in the bag. If you intend to carry
|
||||
a lot you should go for something less prone to tearing, if you are only using
|
||||
it for knick-knacks and small personal items you can get away with fancier
|
||||
fabrics such as silks. The lining is also an opportunity to use up any fabrics
|
||||
in your stash that you don't like or don't have a use for as it will be hidden
|
||||
in the final product and only you will know/see.
|
||||
|
||||
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
|
||||
|
||||
### Materials
|
||||
|
||||
- **Main fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **2 SidePanel** parts
|
||||
- Cut **2 FrontBackPanel** parts
|
||||
- Cut **1 BottomPanel**
|
||||
- Cut **2 SidePanelReinforcement** parts
|
||||
- Cut **2 Strap** parts
|
||||
- Cut **2 ZipperPanel** parts
|
||||
- **Lining fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **2 SidePanel** parts
|
||||
- Cut **2 FrontBackPanel** parts
|
||||
- Cut **1 BottomPanel**
|
||||
- Cut **2 ZipperPanel** parts
|
||||
66
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/instructions/readme.mdx
Normal file
66
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/instructions/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,66 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Lumina leggings: Sewing Instructions'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
|
||||
sidebar_position: 20
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
This is a garment made from a stretch fabric. So use appropriate seam solutions. A serger is a good way to do this, as
|
||||
are specific stitches that certain sewing machines provide. A zigzag stitch will do if that's all you have.
|
||||
|
||||
Keep in mind that since these seams are always under tension, it may be a good idea to double them up, or
|
||||
provide a zigzag in addition to serging the seam.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 1: The waistband (optional)
|
||||
|
||||
- Sew the two pieces to each other, right sides together, along the top seam.
|
||||
- Press the seam open
|
||||
- Sew the back seam, right sides together. This creates a loop.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
If you want to include elastic into the waistband, now is a good time to do so. You should
|
||||
add it to the seam you just sewed.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 2: The cross seam
|
||||
|
||||
- Sew both leg pieces together along the cross seam.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 3: Pockets
|
||||
|
||||
- Serge the top of the two panels.
|
||||
- Fold this top over onto itself, and stitch in place. Using a double needle is a good way to do this.
|
||||
Zigzag works too. Make sure that you fold it slightly more than the seam allowance.
|
||||
- Lay the panel down with the right side down.
|
||||
- Lay the pocket part on top, right side down, aligning the notches. Pin in place
|
||||
- Stitch the bottom of the pocket to the panel. Again, a double needle or zigzag works well.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 4: Panels
|
||||
|
||||
- Align all the front notches of the panel to the front of the leg panel, right sides together.
|
||||
If you included the pocket option, make sure you treat the pocket and panel pieces as one piece.
|
||||
- Seam this seam on both legs.
|
||||
- Repeat for the back side of the panel and leg parts
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
The number and distance of the notches on the front and back seams are different.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 5: Attaching the waistband
|
||||
|
||||
- Align the waistband seam with the seam in the back. Align the notches with the panel seams.
|
||||
- Sew all the way around, attaching the waistband to the legs. Make sure you sew both pieces of the waistband
|
||||
into this seam. This seam will combine three layers, both layers of the waistband, and one layer of the leg
|
||||
pieces.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
If you have included the pocket option, take extra care not to sew the folded over part of the panel into
|
||||
the waistband seam.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 6: Finish up
|
||||
|
||||
Now you can add the elastic to the leg openings. Otherwise finish those in any way you like.
|
||||
|
||||
You're all done! Enjoy your Lumina leggings!
|
||||
18
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/ease/readme.mdx
Normal file
18
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/ease/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,18 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Ease'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the amount of ease built into the pattern. Since these are leggings that are to be made of stretch fabric,
|
||||
the ease is nagative. So the completed garment will be narrower than the measurements would dictate.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
Getting the ease right for your type of fabric is essential for getting a good fit. If you make the ease
|
||||
too negative, the leggings will be too constricting, and limiting movement. If you don't make the ease
|
||||
negative enough, the leggings will not hug your legs and torso. The fabric should be stretched in all
|
||||
places, without being too tight.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
With a positive ease, these leggings will turn into slightly loose fitting pants
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Fixed-width side panel'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Have either a fixed width side panel, or one that follows the contours of the legs.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
Even a fixed width side panel will taper towards the ankle
|
||||
:::
|
||||
12
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/length/readme.mdx
Normal file
12
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/length/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Leg length'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the length of the legs. This is a percentage of the inseam.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
Since the inseam is measured to the floor, and these leggings max out at the ankle,
|
||||
The maximum is beyond the ankle, and is ignored. The slider will not do anything
|
||||
for the top 10% or so.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Waistband lowering'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls whether to lower the waistband in the back, creating a 'V' shape.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Pocket'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The pattern allows for a pocket to be added in the side panel.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Pocket Depth'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the depth of the pocket.
|
||||
135
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
135
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,135 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: "Lumina leggings: Design Options"
|
||||
sidebar_label: Design Options
|
||||
sidebar_position: 10
|
||||
toc_max_heading_level: 5
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import Ease from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/ease/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Fixedsidepanel from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/fixedsidepanel/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Length from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/length/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Lowerwaistbandback from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/lowerwaistbandback/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Pocket from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/pocket/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Pocketdepth from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/pocketdepth/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Sidepanel from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/sidepanel/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Smoothing from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/smoothing/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Waistband from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistband/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Waistbandsize from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistbandsize/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Waistlowering from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistlowering/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Waistreduction from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx'
|
||||
|
||||
## Conditional Options {#conditional}
|
||||
### Pocket depth {#pocketdepth}
|
||||
|
||||
**Depth (height) of the pocket. This is a percentage of the Waist-To-Seat measurement.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **90%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **20%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **120%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Pocketdepth />
|
||||
|
||||
### Waist circumference reduction {#waistreduction}
|
||||
|
||||
**The amount by which the waist should be reduced. This is a percentage of the waist circumference. Only available when the waistband option is selected. Look in the Messages from the designer for the exact size.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **4%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **0%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **10%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Waistreduction />
|
||||
|
||||
### Waistband Lowering {#lowerwaistbandback}
|
||||
|
||||
**Lower the waistband in the back.**
|
||||
- Type: **Boolean**
|
||||
- Default: **true**
|
||||
|
||||
<Lowerwaistbandback />
|
||||
|
||||
### Waistband size {#waistbandsize}
|
||||
|
||||
**Size (height) of the waistband. This is a percentage of the Waist-To-Hips measurement.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **50%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **0%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **150%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Waistbandsize />
|
||||
|
||||
## Fit {#fit}
|
||||
### Ease {#ease}
|
||||
|
||||
**This controls the amount of ease. Since this is a pattern for leggings that is normally made of stretch fabric, the ease is negative, meaning the fabric is stretched around the body.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **-8%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **-25%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **10%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Ease />
|
||||
|
||||
## Style {#style}
|
||||
### Fixed-width side panel {#fixedsidepanel}
|
||||
|
||||
**Fixed-width, or shaped side panel**
|
||||
- Type: **Boolean**
|
||||
- Default: **false**
|
||||
|
||||
<Fixedsidepanel />
|
||||
|
||||
### Leg length {#length}
|
||||
|
||||
**The length of the legs. Look in the Messages from the designer for the exact length.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **35%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **10%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **100%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Length />
|
||||
|
||||
### Pocket {#pocket}
|
||||
|
||||
**Add pockets**
|
||||
- Type: **Boolean**
|
||||
- Default: **true**
|
||||
|
||||
<Pocket />
|
||||
|
||||
### Side Panel size {#sidepanel}
|
||||
|
||||
**Size (width) of the side panel. This is a percentage of the waist circumference.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **25%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **10%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **40%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Sidepanel />
|
||||
|
||||
### Waistband {#waistband}
|
||||
|
||||
**Add a separate waistband to the design.**
|
||||
- Type: **Boolean**
|
||||
- Default: **true**
|
||||
|
||||
<Waistband />
|
||||
|
||||
### Waist lowering {#waistlowering}
|
||||
|
||||
**Lowering of the waist. This is a percentage of the Waist-To-Hips measurement.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **35%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **-10%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **60%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Waistlowering />
|
||||
|
||||
## Advanced {#advanced}
|
||||
### Smoothing {#smoothing}
|
||||
|
||||
**This setting controls the amount of smoothing that is done to create the side seams (and overall shape of the leggings).**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **85%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **50%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **100%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Smoothing />
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Side Panel size'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Size (width) of the side panel. This is a percentage of the waist circumference.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Smoothing'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This option controls the amount of smoothing of the side seam the pattern employs.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Waistband'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Adds a waistband
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Waistband Size'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the size of the waistband.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Waist lowering'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This lowers where the top of the leggings stop. Can be anywhere between the true waist and the hips.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Waist reduction'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Reduces the waist for a more snug fit.
|
||||
86
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/readme.mdx
Normal file
86
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,86 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Lumina leggings'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Lumina leggings
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
<DesignInfo design="lumina" />
|
||||
|
||||
## Designer Notes {#notes}
|
||||
|
||||
I started working on this design when I wanted to make a pair of cycling
|
||||
shorts. I had made a pair in the past, using a commercial pattern. And since
|
||||
you can buy the chamois separately, this is a great garment to make.
|
||||
|
||||
After starting this, I realized that there would be people who would want a
|
||||
more traditional leggings pattern. So I decided to make two patterns, one with
|
||||
a seam on the inside of the leg (traditional), and one without a seam on the
|
||||
inside (this one). I played with the idea to keep both patterns under one name,
|
||||
but it became obvious that it would be better to have two different patterns
|
||||
instead. Since this one was called `lumina`, I named the other `lumira`. As it
|
||||
may be, I quickly got distracted by the other version, and that one was
|
||||
published first.
|
||||
|
||||
Since this pattern has a panel on the side, it seemed easy to add a pocket
|
||||
option. So if you want to keep your mobile phone on you while working out, this
|
||||
is the pattern to use.
|
||||
|
||||
I was also in need of a pair of gym climbing pants. So this pattern has the
|
||||
option to have a positive ease setting, allowing you to use a non-stretch knit
|
||||
fabric. This makes for loose-fitting workout pants.
|
||||
|
||||
Wouter
|
||||
|
||||
## What You Need {#needs}
|
||||
|
||||
To make Lumina, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- Basic sewing supplies
|
||||
- About 1.5 metres (1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric
|
||||
options](#fabric))
|
||||
- Elastic for the leg openings and waist.
|
||||
|
||||
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
|
||||
|
||||
### Main Fabric
|
||||
|
||||
This pattern requires a stretch fabric. The stretch needs to be perpendicular
|
||||
to the grainline. There is no stretch required along the grainline, but a 4-way
|
||||
stretch fabric can definitely be used. Not all stretch fabrics have the same
|
||||
amount of stretch. The default ease value of -5% works well for fabrics that
|
||||
have 60% stretch. If your fabric has a different amount of stretch, you may
|
||||
want to adjust this setting accordingly. Reduce the ease when your fabric has
|
||||
more stretch. Getting the ease right is _very_ important for getting a good
|
||||
fit.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
If the ease setting is larger than 0 (positive ease), any type of knit fabric
|
||||
can be used. Keep in mind that even with the ease set at the maximum, you
|
||||
probably will not be able to use a fabric with no stretch at all (a woven
|
||||
fabric).
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
These fabrics come in different weights. Pick one that works for how you intend
|
||||
to use it. Thicker fabrics provide more support and warmth.
|
||||
|
||||
For yoga pants, take something that has a medium thickness. Supplex is a good
|
||||
choice for this. It also works well for cycling. For other athletics use
|
||||
fabrics that would be appropriate for that. Most fabrics that contain spandex
|
||||
will work.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
Since this pattern has an outside panel, you can use contrasting fabrics to
|
||||
make interesting effects.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
|
||||
|
||||
### Materials
|
||||
|
||||
- **Main fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **2 leg** parts
|
||||
- Cut **2 panel** parts
|
||||
|
||||
Optionally
|
||||
|
||||
- Cut **2 waistband** parts on the fold
|
||||
- Cut **2 pocket** parts
|
||||
66
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/instructions/readme.mdx
Normal file
66
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/instructions/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,66 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Lumina leggings: Sewing Instructions'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
|
||||
sidebar_position: 20
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
This is a garment made from a stretch fabric. So use appropriate seam solutions. A serger is a good way to do this, as
|
||||
are specific stitches that certain sewing machines provide. A zigzag stitch will do if that's all you have.
|
||||
|
||||
Keep in mind that since these seams are always under tension, it may be a good idea to double them up, or
|
||||
provide a zigzag in addition to serging the seam.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 1: The waistband (optional)
|
||||
|
||||
- Sew the two pieces to each other, right sides together, along the top seam.
|
||||
- Press the seam open
|
||||
- Sew the back seam, right sides together. This creates a loop.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
If you want to include elastic into the waistband, now is a good time to do so. You should
|
||||
add it to the seam you just sewed.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 2: The cross seam
|
||||
|
||||
- Sew both leg pieces together along the cross seam.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 3: Pockets
|
||||
|
||||
- Serge the top of the two panels.
|
||||
- Fold this top over onto itself, and stitch in place. Using a double needle is a good way to do this.
|
||||
Zigzag works too. Make sure that you fold it slightly more than the seam allowance.
|
||||
- Lay the panel down with the right side down.
|
||||
- Lay the pocket part on top, right side down, aligning the notches. Pin in place
|
||||
- Stitch the bottom of the pocket to the panel. Again, a double needle or zigzag works well.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 4: Panels
|
||||
|
||||
- Align all the front notches of the panel to the front of the leg panel, right sides together.
|
||||
If you included the pocket option, make sure you treat the pocket and panel pieces as one piece.
|
||||
- Seam this seam on both legs.
|
||||
- Repeat for the back side of the panel and leg parts
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
The number and distance of the notches on the front and back seams are different.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 5: Attaching the waistband
|
||||
|
||||
- Align the waistband seam with the seam in the back. Align the notches with the panel seams.
|
||||
- Sew all the way around, attaching the waistband to the legs. Make sure you sew both pieces of the waistband
|
||||
into this seam. This seam will combine three layers, both layers of the waistband, and one layer of the leg
|
||||
pieces.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
If you have included the pocket option, take extra care not to sew the folded over part of the panel into
|
||||
the waistband seam.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 6: Finish up
|
||||
|
||||
Now you can add the elastic to the leg openings. Otherwise finish those in any way you like.
|
||||
|
||||
You're all done! Enjoy your Lumina leggings!
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Back gusset'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Add a circular gusset in the back. This can be used to tweak the shape and tension on the butt.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Back gusset width'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the width of the gusset in the back.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Butt Lift'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the shape of the back of the gusset. This provides more or less support, or lift, of the buttocks.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Cycling Chamois'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The pattern allows for the gusset to be shaped such that a cycling chamois can be added. These
|
||||
are the padded pads that you see in cycling shorts.
|
||||
14
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/ease/readme.mdx
Normal file
14
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/ease/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,14 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Ease'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the amount of ease build into the pattern. Since these are leggings that are to be made of stretch fabric,
|
||||
the ease is negative. So the completed garment will be narrower than the measurements would dictate.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
Getting the ease right for your type of fabric is essential for getting a good fit. If you make the ease
|
||||
too negative, the leggings will be too constricting, and limiting movement. If you don't make the ease
|
||||
negative enough, the leggings will not hug your legs and torso. The fabric should be stretched in all
|
||||
places, without being too tight.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Front bulge'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Add a front bulge to the pattern. The gusset will be extended in the front and shaped.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Front bulge size'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This option controls the size of the front bulge. Adjust to your comfort.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Front gusset length'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the length of the gusset in the front.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Gusset width'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the width of the gusset.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Leg length'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the length of the legs. This is a percentage of the inseam.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
Since the inseam is measured to the floor, and these leggings max out at the ankle,
|
||||
The maximum is beyond the ankle, and is ignored. The slider will not do anything
|
||||
for the top 10% or so.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
156
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
156
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,156 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: "Lumira leggings: Design Options"
|
||||
sidebar_label: Design Options
|
||||
sidebar_position: 10
|
||||
toc_max_heading_level: 5
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import Backgusset from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/backgusset/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Backgussetwidth from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/backgussetwidth/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Buttlift from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/buttlift/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Cyclingchamois from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/cyclingchamois/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Ease from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/ease/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Frontbulge from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontbulge/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Frontbulgesize from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontbulgesize/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Frontgussetlength from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontgussetlength/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Gussetwidth from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/gussetwidth/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Leglength from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/leglength/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Waistband from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistband/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Waistbandsize from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistbandsize/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Waistlowering from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistlowering/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Waistreduction from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx'
|
||||
|
||||
## Conditional Options {#conditional}
|
||||
### Back Gusset width {#backgussetwidth}
|
||||
|
||||
**The width of the gusset in the back. This is a percentage of the hips circumference.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **50%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **20%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **75%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Backgussetwidth />
|
||||
|
||||
### Front bulge {#frontbulge}
|
||||
|
||||
**Add a bulge in the front**
|
||||
- Type: **Boolean**
|
||||
- Default: **false**
|
||||
|
||||
<Frontbulge />
|
||||
|
||||
### Gusset width {#gussetwidth}
|
||||
|
||||
**Width of the gusset. This is a percentage of the front cross seam.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **16%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **5%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **30%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Gussetwidth />
|
||||
|
||||
### Butt lift {#buttlift}
|
||||
|
||||
**This setting controls the shape of the back gusset, thereby creating more or less support to lift the buttocks**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **30%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **0%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **60%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Buttlift />
|
||||
|
||||
### Front bulge size {#frontbulgesize}
|
||||
|
||||
**The size of the front bulge. This is a percentage of the front cross seam. (Take it easy, you need less than you think, big boy)**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **2.5%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **0%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **10%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Frontbulgesize />
|
||||
|
||||
### Front gusset length {#frontgussetlength}
|
||||
|
||||
**This configures how far the gusset should extend in the front. This is a percentage of the front cross seam.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **12.5%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **0%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **30%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Frontgussetlength />
|
||||
|
||||
### Waistband size {#waistbandsize}
|
||||
|
||||
**Size (height) of the waistband. This is a percentage of the Waist-To-Hips measurement.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **90%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **0%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **150%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Waistbandsize />
|
||||
|
||||
### Waist circumference reduction {#waistreduction}
|
||||
|
||||
**The amount by which the waist should be reduced. This is a percentage of the waist circumference. Only available when the waistband option is selected.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **4%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **0%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **10%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Waistreduction />
|
||||
|
||||
## Fit {#fit}
|
||||
### Ease {#ease}
|
||||
|
||||
**This controls the amount of ease. Since this is a pattern for leggings that is normally made of stretch fabric, the ease is negative, meaning the fabric is stretched around the body.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **-8%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **-30%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **0%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Ease />
|
||||
|
||||
## Style {#style}
|
||||
### Back Gusset {#backgusset}
|
||||
|
||||
**Add a circular gusset in the back**
|
||||
- Type: **Boolean**
|
||||
- Default: **false**
|
||||
|
||||
<Backgusset />
|
||||
|
||||
### Cycling Chamois {#cyclingchamois}
|
||||
|
||||
**Allow for a chamois to be added. This sets some of the percentages, and automatically enables certain features**
|
||||
- Type: **Boolean**
|
||||
- Default: **false**
|
||||
|
||||
<Cyclingchamois />
|
||||
|
||||
### Leg length {#leglength}
|
||||
|
||||
**The length of the legs. A percentage of the inseam measurement.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **100%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **10%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **100%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Leglength />
|
||||
|
||||
### Waistband {#waistband}
|
||||
|
||||
**Add a separate waistband to the design**
|
||||
- Type: **Boolean**
|
||||
- Default: **true**
|
||||
|
||||
<Waistband />
|
||||
|
||||
### Waist lowering {#waistlowering}
|
||||
|
||||
**Lowering of the waist. This is a percentage of the Waist-To-Hips measurement.**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **35%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **-10%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **60%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Waistlowering />
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Waistband'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Adds a waistband
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Waistband size'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the size of the waistband.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Waist lowering'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This lowers where the top of the leggings stop. Can be anywhere between the true waist and the hips.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Waist reduction'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Reduces the waist for a more snug fit.
|
||||
83
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/readme.mdx
Normal file
83
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,83 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Lumira leggings'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Lumira leggings
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
<DesignInfo design="lumira" />
|
||||
|
||||
## Designer Notes {#notes}
|
||||
|
||||
I started working on this design when I decided I needed more leggings to cycle
|
||||
in the fall and winter. My previous pair was made with a commercial pattern,
|
||||
and they have served me well. The easy solution would have been to just make
|
||||
some more. But if I need some of these, there should be more people that do.
|
||||
|
||||
I decided to make this pattern so it allows for a waistband to be part of it.
|
||||
This should make for a good fit on a wide range of body types. It can
|
||||
optionally create a gusset that is relatively large in the back. This is both a
|
||||
nice design feature, and provides support for the rear. To exemplify this, you
|
||||
could use a contrasting fabric for this part.
|
||||
|
||||
The pattern's gusset can be extended to the front to allow for a bulge. And
|
||||
since I wanted this pattern to be able to be used for cycling, there is an
|
||||
option to use a chamois, the padding you find in most cycling shorts.
|
||||
|
||||
This is a pattern that has no outside seams, so interesting designs on the
|
||||
fabric will not be distorted.
|
||||
|
||||
Wouter
|
||||
|
||||
## What You Need {#needs}
|
||||
|
||||
To make Lumira, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- Basic sewing supplies
|
||||
- About 1.5 metres (1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Lumira Fabric
|
||||
options](#fabric))
|
||||
- Elastic for the leg openings and waist.
|
||||
|
||||
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
|
||||
|
||||
### Main Fabric
|
||||
|
||||
This pattern requires a stretch fabric. The stretch needs to be perpendicular
|
||||
to the grainline. There is no stretch required along the grainline, but a 4-way
|
||||
stretch fabric can definitely be used. Not all stretch fabrics have the same
|
||||
amount of stretch. The default ease value of -5% works well for fabrics that
|
||||
have 60% stretch. If your fabric has a different amount of stretch, you may
|
||||
want to adjust this setting accordingly. Reduce the ease when your fabric has
|
||||
more stretch. Getting the ease right is _very_ important for getting a good
|
||||
fit.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
If the ease setting is larger than 0 (positive ease), any type of knit fabric
|
||||
can be used. Keep in mind that even with the ease set at the maximum, you
|
||||
probably will not be able to use a fabric with no stretch at all (a woven
|
||||
fabric).
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
These fabrics come in different weights. Pick one that works for how you intend
|
||||
to use it. Thicker fabrics provide more support and warmth.
|
||||
|
||||
For yoga pants, take something that has a medium thickness. Supplex is a good
|
||||
choice for this. It also works well for cycling. For other athletics use
|
||||
fabrics that would be appropriate for that. Most fabrics that contain spandex
|
||||
will work.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
Since this pattern has an outside panel, you can use contrasting fabrics to
|
||||
make interesting effects.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
|
||||
|
||||
### Materials
|
||||
|
||||
- **Main fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **2 leg** parts
|
||||
- Cut **2 panel** parts
|
||||
|
||||
Optionally
|
||||
|
||||
- Cut **2 waistband** parts on the fold
|
||||
- Cut **2 pocket** parts
|
||||
74
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/instructions/readme.mdx
Normal file
74
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/instructions/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,74 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Noble body block: Sewing Instructions'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
|
||||
sidebar_position: 20
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
|
||||
###### Noble is a block, not a pattern
|
||||
|
||||
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
|
||||
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
|
||||
|
||||
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns so the instructions below will not go in depth about closures or finishes and are for the default Noble block.
|
||||
|
||||
Noble is based on the Bella body block
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 1: Mock-up Construction
|
||||
|
||||
- Sew the front inside to the front outside, _good sides together_.
|
||||
|
||||
### Shoulder seam
|
||||
|
||||
- Sew the back inside to the back outside, _good sides together_.
|
||||
|
||||
### Armhole seam
|
||||
|
||||
- Close the back darts.
|
||||
|
||||
### Both
|
||||
|
||||
- Sew the front to the backs at the shoulders, _good sides together_.
|
||||
- Sew the front to the backs at the side seams, _good sides together_.
|
||||
|
||||
:::Tip
|
||||
If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams _wrong sides together_ to make them easier to adjust.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 2: Try it on
|
||||
|
||||
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
|
||||
- Make any alterations and try it on again.
|
||||
- Repeat until you are happy.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
If you do not have someone to help with pinning, you may find it easier to cut the front part in two with seam allowance rather than on a fold and sew the back seam up so that you can pin in the front when trying on.
|
||||
|
||||
Keep an eye out for anything you keep doing whilst wearing the mock-up, are you pulling it down? Constantly adjusting the shoulder? etc. Things like these are signs of where the pattern may need adjusting.
|
||||
|
||||
Sometimes you may need to wear the mock-up for an extended amount of time to get a better sense of the fit so don't be afraid to walk around in it for a couple of hours.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
Remember to treat Noble as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look.
|
||||
For instance:
|
||||
|
||||
- Change the neck line
|
||||
- Add/change the closure allowances
|
||||
- Alter the princess seam placements
|
||||
- Alter the back dart placements.
|
||||
- Add a collar
|
||||
|
||||
It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 3: Make a paper pattern
|
||||
|
||||
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
|
||||
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Armhole Dart Position'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **Armhole Dart Position** option allows you to move the position of the dart/princess seam.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Armhole depth'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **armhole depth** option controls the depth of the armhole.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Back armhole curvature'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **back armhole curvature** option controls how much the armhole is scooped at out the bottom in the back.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Back armhole pitch depth'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **back armhole pitch depth** option controls the vertical position of the armhole pitch point at the back.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Back armhole slant'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **back armhole slant** slightly rotates the armhole around the back pitch point.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Back dart height'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **back dart height** option controls the height (length if you will) of the back dart.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Back hem slope'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **back hem slope** option controls the slope of the hem at the back.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Back neck cutout'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **back neck cutout** option controls how far the neck opening is scooped out at the back.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Bust span ease'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **bust span ease** option controls how much ease is applied to the bust span.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
This will not add ease to the garment, but merely influence the bust point.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Chest ease'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **chest ease** option controls the amount of ease at the fullest part of your chest.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Dart position'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls whether to split at the shoulder or armhole
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Front armhole curvature'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls how deep the armhole is scooped out at the front bottom
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Front armhole pitch depth'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **front armhole pitch depth** option controls the vertical position of the armhole pitch point at the front.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Front shoulder width'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **front shoulder width** option controls the width of the shoulders at the front, relative to the back.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Full chest ease reduction'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Allows you to independently reduce the ease around the chest to make it fit tight(er) in that area.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'High bust width'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **high bust width** option allows you to tweak the high bust width at the front.
|
||||
266
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
266
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,266 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: "Noble body block: Design Options"
|
||||
sidebar_label: Design Options
|
||||
sidebar_position: 10
|
||||
toc_max_heading_level: 5
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import Armholedartposition from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/armholedartposition/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Armholedepth from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Backarmholecurvature from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholecurvature/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Backarmholepitchdepth from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Backarmholeslant from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholeslant/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Backdartheight from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/backdartheight/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Backhemslope from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/backhemslope/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Backneckcutout from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Bustspanease from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/bustspanease/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Chestease from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/chestease/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Dartposition from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/dartposition/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Frontarmholecurvature from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/frontarmholecurvature/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Frontarmholepitchdepth from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/frontarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Frontshoulderwidth from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/frontshoulderwidth/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Fullchesteasereduction from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/fullchesteasereduction/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Highbustwidth from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/highbustwidth/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Shoulderdartcurvature from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/shoulderdartcurvature/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Shoulderdartposition from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/shoulderdartposition/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Shouldertoshoulderease from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/shouldertoshoulderease/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Upperdartlength from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/upperdartlength/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Waistdartlength from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/waistdartlength/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Waistease from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/waistease/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Waistdartposition from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/waistdartposition/readme.mdx'
|
||||
|
||||
## Conditional Options {#conditional}
|
||||
### Armhole dart position {#armholedartposition}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the position of the armhole dart**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **50%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **10%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **90%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Armholedartposition />
|
||||
|
||||
### Shoulder dart curvature {#shoulderdartcurvature}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the curvature of the upper part of the shoulder dart**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **0%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **-5%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **2.5%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Shoulderdartcurvature />
|
||||
|
||||
### Shoulder dart position {#shoulderdartposition}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the position of the shoulder dart**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **50%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **10%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **90%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Shoulderdartposition />
|
||||
|
||||
## Armhole {#armhole}
|
||||
### Armhole depth {#armholedepth}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the depth of the armhole**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **44%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **38%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **46%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Armholedepth />
|
||||
|
||||
### Back armhole curvature {#backarmholecurvature}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls how deep the armhole is scooped out at the back**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **63%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **50%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **85%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Backarmholecurvature />
|
||||
|
||||
### Back armhole pitch depth {#backarmholepitchdepth}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls how deep the armhole cuts into the back**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **35%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **30%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **40%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Backarmholepitchdepth />
|
||||
|
||||
### Back armhole slant {#backarmholeslant}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the slant of the armhole at the back**
|
||||
- Type: **Degrees**
|
||||
- Default: **5°**
|
||||
- Minimum: **1°**
|
||||
- Maximum: **9°**
|
||||
|
||||
<Backarmholeslant />
|
||||
|
||||
### Front armhole curvature {#frontarmholecurvature}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls how deep the armhole is scooped out at the front bottom**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **63%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **50%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **85%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Frontarmholecurvature />
|
||||
|
||||
### Front armhole pitch depth {#frontarmholepitchdepth}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls how deep the armhole cuts into the front**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **29%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **27%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **31%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Frontarmholepitchdepth />
|
||||
|
||||
## Darts {#darts}
|
||||
### Controls the height of the back dart {#backdartheight}
|
||||
|
||||
**Back dart height**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **46%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **38%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **54%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Backdartheight />
|
||||
|
||||
### Dart position {#dartposition}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls whether to split at the shoulder or armhole**
|
||||
- Type: **List**
|
||||
- Default: **shoulder**
|
||||
- options:
|
||||
- shoulder
|
||||
- armhole
|
||||
|
||||
<Dartposition />
|
||||
|
||||
### Upper dart length {#upperdartlength}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the length of the upper dart**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **90%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **80%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **95%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Upperdartlength />
|
||||
|
||||
### Waist dart length {#waistdartlength}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the length of the waist dart**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **90%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **75%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **95%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Waistdartlength />
|
||||
|
||||
### Waist dart position {#waistdartposition}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the position of the waist 'dart', moving it to the center (negative) or side (positive)**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **0%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **-100%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **100%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Waistdartposition />
|
||||
|
||||
## Fit {#fit}
|
||||
### Bust span ease {#bustspanease}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the amount of ease along the bust span**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **0%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **-5%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **20%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Bustspanease />
|
||||
|
||||
### Chest ease {#chestease}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the amount of ease at the chest**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **11%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **5%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **20%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Chestease />
|
||||
|
||||
### Full chest ease reduction {#fullchesteasereduction}
|
||||
|
||||
**Allows you to independently reduce the ease around the chest to make it fit tight(er) in that area**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **4%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **0%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **8%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Fullchesteasereduction />
|
||||
|
||||
### Shoulder to shoulder ease {#shouldertoshoulderease}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the amount of ease along the shoulder to shoulder measurement**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **-0.5%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **-1%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **5%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Shouldertoshoulderease />
|
||||
|
||||
### Waist ease {#waistease}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the amount of ease at the waist**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **5%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **1%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **20%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Waistease />
|
||||
|
||||
## Advanced {#advanced}
|
||||
### Back hem slope {#backhemslope}
|
||||
|
||||
**Constrols the slope of the back hem**
|
||||
- Type: **Degrees**
|
||||
- Default: **2.5°**
|
||||
- Minimum: **0°**
|
||||
- Maximum: **5°**
|
||||
|
||||
<Backhemslope />
|
||||
|
||||
### Back neck cutout {#backneckcutout}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls how deep the neck is cutout in the back**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **6%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **3%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **9%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Backneckcutout />
|
||||
|
||||
### Front shoulder width {#frontshoulderwidth}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls how much width is added to the shoulder in the front**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **95%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **92%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **98%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Frontshoulderwidth />
|
||||
|
||||
### High bust width {#highbustwidth}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the width of the high bust**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **86%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **80%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **92%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Highbustwidth />
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Shoulder Dart Curvature'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **Shoulder Dart Curvature** option controls the curvature of the upper part of the shoulder dart.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Shoulder Dart Position'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **Shoulder Dart Position** option allows you to move the position of the dart/princess seam.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Shoulder to Shoulder Ease'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **Shoulder to Shoulder Ease** option allows you to add ease between the shoulders.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Upper Dart Length'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **Upper Dart Length** controls the length of the upper dart, 100% is all the way to the bust point.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Waist dart length'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **waist dart length** option controls the length of the waist dart towards the bust.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Waist dart position'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **waist dart position** option controls the position of the waist 'dart', moving it to the center (negative) or side (positive).
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Waist ease'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The **waist ease** option controls the amount of ease at your waist.
|
||||
71
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/readme.mdx
Normal file
71
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,71 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Noble body block'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Noble body block
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
<DesignInfo design="noble" />
|
||||
|
||||
:::warning Noble is a block, not a pattern
|
||||
|
||||
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based. They are sometimes
|
||||
also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are
|
||||
different things.
|
||||
|
||||
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
## Designer Notes {#notes}
|
||||
|
||||
Noble is a design for a block with prince(ss) seams instead of darts. It is
|
||||
based on `bella`.
|
||||
|
||||
This is not intended to be made as is, but merely to base other designs on.
|
||||
This is also why I made it. I wanted to make a coat, and for it I needed a
|
||||
block with prince(ss) seams. So I made that first, and the coat would come
|
||||
later.
|
||||
|
||||
Wouter
|
||||
|
||||
## What You Need {#needs}
|
||||
|
||||
To make Noble, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- Basic sewing supplies
|
||||
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric
|
||||
Options](#fabric))
|
||||
|
||||
This list is for a default Noble Block. If you have/are making changes to the
|
||||
block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.
|
||||
|
||||
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
|
||||
|
||||
If you are making a default Noble to see how it fits we recommend a fabric such
|
||||
as **Calico (Muslin)** or a cheaper fabric that matches the drape and stretch
|
||||
of the fabric you intend to make a finalised version of Noble with.
|
||||
|
||||
You can use scraps of fabrics from your stash so don't worry about buying
|
||||
fabric specifically for Noble.
|
||||
|
||||
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
|
||||
|
||||
**Main fabric**
|
||||
|
||||
- Cut **1 Front Inside** part on the fold.
|
||||
- Cut **2 Front Outside** parts.
|
||||
|
||||
### Shoulder dart
|
||||
|
||||
- Cut **2 Back Inside** parts.
|
||||
- Cut **2 Back Outside** parts.
|
||||
|
||||
### Armhole dart
|
||||
|
||||
- Cut **2 Back** parts.
|
||||
|
||||
These cutting instructions are just for the default Noble block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block.
|
||||
|
||||
:::Tip
|
||||
If you do not have someone to help pin you into Noble then you may find it
|
||||
easier to Cut 2 Front Inside parts with seam allowance and sew the backs up
|
||||
when constructing so you can pin in the front.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,89 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Octoplushy, the plushy octopus: Sewing Instructions'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
|
||||
sidebar_position: 20
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
## Step 1: The Body
|
||||
|
||||
### The Face
|
||||
|
||||
- **Octoplushy**
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew four head parts together, from notch B to the tip of the head part A creating a semi-sphere like shape.
|
||||
- Repeat with the remaining four head parts to create a second half.
|
||||
- Use topstitching, or a long bar-tack, to make the mouth on one of the segments.
|
||||
- On the same section create eyes where the buttons are marked on the pattern.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the two head halves together, from notch B to the tip of the head part A.
|
||||
- Turn _good sides_ out.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
There are a couple of ways to make eyes for the Octoplushy version.
|
||||
|
||||
- Buttons
|
||||
- Toy eyes
|
||||
- Embroidery
|
||||
- Felt or other suitable unravelling fabrics which can be combined with a _satin stitch_
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
- **Octopus**
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew four head parts together, from notch B to the tip of the head part A creating a semi-sphere like shape.
|
||||
- Repeat with the remaining four head parts to create a second half.
|
||||
- With _wrong sides_ to _good sides_ sew the pupil to eyes parts.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew both short ends of eyebrows together, creating a ring.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the eyebrows to the circumferences of the eyes, gathering the excess as you go.
|
||||
- Fold the eyebrows in half _wrong sides together_, and sew it again to the eyes. You may find it easier to hand sew this step.
|
||||
- Hand sew the eyes to the lower part of one of the head halves, so that you will have two sections between them when it all comes together.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the two head halves together, from notch B to the tip of the head part A.
|
||||
- Turn _good sides_ out.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
Before sewing the eyebrows in half, you can stuff the eyebrows to create a more dramatic looking eyebrow.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
- **Squid**
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew four head parts together, from notch B to the tip of the head part A creating a semi-sphere like shape.
|
||||
- Repeat with the remaining four head parts to create a second half.
|
||||
- On the head (a) parts fold along the fold-line with _good sides together_.
|
||||
- Sew the straight line that juts out and then turn the flap _good sides_ out.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the non - flap edges of the head (a) parts to the one of the head halves sewn earlier, from notch B to the tip of the head part A.
|
||||
- With _wrong side_ to _good side_ sew the pupils to the eyes and finish their sides the best you can.
|
||||
- Hand Sew the eyes to the section closest to the legs.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the two halves together, from notch B to the tip of the head part A making sure that the flaps are on the outside.
|
||||
- Turn _good sides_ out.
|
||||
|
||||
## Step 2: The Legs
|
||||
|
||||
- **Octoplushy & Octopus**
|
||||
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew four leg parts together, from notch D to the tip of the leg part C.
|
||||
- Repeat with the remaining four leg parts to create a second half.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the two leg halves together, from notch D to the tip of the leg part C but only one side. This other side stays open for
|
||||
stuffing later.
|
||||
|
||||
- **Squid**
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew four leg parts together, from notch D to the tip of the leg part C.
|
||||
- Repeat with the remaining four leg parts to create a second half.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew a leg (a) part to each half so you have matching halves.
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ sew the two leg halves together, from notch D to the tip of the leg part C but only one side. This other side stays open for
|
||||
stuffing later.
|
||||
|
||||
## Step 3: Final Construction
|
||||
|
||||
- With _good sides together_ match up the leg parts with the body parts.
|
||||
- Sew each leg from notch B/D down and back around to notch B/D.
|
||||
- If the leg part is slightly shorter than the leg on the head parts you will have to ease it in while matching it up. Notches have been provided to make this easier.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
It is easiest to sew one leg almost to the next B/D notch, stop sewing, pin the next leg, and continue sewing rather than trying to pin and sew all the legs in one go.
|
||||
|
||||
Those who are more confident can do this with the needle down on their machine but if you are less confident you may wish to remove from the machine, pin and then start sewing again a little bit over your original stitching to secure it.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
- Turn _good sides_ out.
|
||||
- For Octopus sew along stitching lines of the legs before stuffing.
|
||||
- Stuff the plushy through the opening in the legs.
|
||||
- Hand sew the opening closed.
|
||||
|
||||
## Step 4: Enjoy!
|
||||
|
||||
- That's it you are all done now go explore the depths of the oceans with your new Octoplushy!
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Arm Length'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This setting adjusts the length of the arms.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Arm Taper'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This setting changes how much the arms taper from the body down to the end.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Arm Width'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The setting adjusts the width of the arms.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Bottom Arm Reduction'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This setting adjusts the difference in length between the top and the bottom fabric of the arms for the Octopus and Squid styles.
|
||||
The bigger the difference, the more the arms will want to curl.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Bottom Arm Reduction (Octoplushy)'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This setting adjusts the difference in length between the top and the bottom fabric of the arms for the Octoplushy style.
|
||||
The bigger the difference, the more the arms will want to curl.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Bottom to Top Arm Ratio'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This setting adjusts the ratio between the top and the bottom of the arms.
|
||||
The lower the ratio, the more fabric will be associated with the top of the leg.
|
||||
100% makes both the top and the bottom the same.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Neck Width'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The width of the neck can be adjusted. This is a percentage of the head.
|
||||
110
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
110
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,110 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: "Octoplushy the octopus: Design Options"
|
||||
sidebar_label: Design Options
|
||||
sidebar_position: 10
|
||||
toc_max_heading_level: 5
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import Armlength from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armlength/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Armtaper from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armtaper/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Armwidth from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armwidth/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Bottomarmreduction from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomarmreduction/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Bottomarmreductionplushy from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomarmreductionplushy/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Bottomtoparmratio from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomtoparmratio/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Neckwidth from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/neckwidth/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Size from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/size/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Type from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/type/readme.mdx'
|
||||
|
||||
## Conditional Options {#conditional}
|
||||
### Bottom arm reduction (plushy) {#bottomarmreductionplushy}
|
||||
|
||||
**This changes how long the bottom fabric of the arms is compared to the top fabric. It makes the arms more curly**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **80%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **75%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **125%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Bottomarmreductionplushy />
|
||||
|
||||
### Bottom arm reduction {#bottomarmreduction}
|
||||
|
||||
**This changes how long the bottom fabric of the arms is compared to the top fabric. It makes the arms more curly**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **90%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **75%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **125%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Bottomarmreduction />
|
||||
|
||||
## Style {#style}
|
||||
### Arm length {#armlength}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the length of the arms**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **200%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **100%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **500%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Armlength />
|
||||
|
||||
### Arm tapering {#armtaper}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the amount by which the arms taper**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **25%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **0%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **50%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Armtaper />
|
||||
|
||||
### Arm width {#armwidth}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the width of the arms**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **15%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **10%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **30%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Armwidth />
|
||||
|
||||
### Bottom/Top arm ratio {#bottomtoparmratio}
|
||||
|
||||
**Changes the ratio between the fabric on the top of the arms versus that on the bottom of the arms**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **57%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **25%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **75%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Bottomtoparmratio />
|
||||
|
||||
### Neck width {#neckwidth}
|
||||
|
||||
**Determines the width at the neck**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **25%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **25%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **45%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Neckwidth />
|
||||
|
||||
### Size {#size}
|
||||
|
||||
**Controls the overall size (value shown is the size of the head)**
|
||||
- Type: **Percentage**
|
||||
- Default: **100%**
|
||||
- Minimum: **5%**
|
||||
- Maximum: **500%**
|
||||
|
||||
<Size />
|
||||
|
||||
### Type {#type}
|
||||
|
||||
**Allows you to choose one of the variants of this design**
|
||||
- Type: **List**
|
||||
- Default: **octoplushy**
|
||||
- options:
|
||||
- octoplushy
|
||||
- octopus
|
||||
- squid
|
||||
|
||||
<Type />
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Size'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Octoplushy can be made in different sizes. The default has a head size of about 15cm, and 25cm long legs.
|
||||
This is a percentage of this default length.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Type'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
There are three distinct Octoplushies. The original cute Octoplushy, the more authentic Octopus, and the Squid.
|
||||
108
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/readme.mdx
Normal file
108
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,108 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Octoplushy, the plushy octopus'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Octoplushy the plushy octopus
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
<DesignInfo design="octoplushy" />
|
||||
|
||||
## Designer Notes {#notes}
|
||||
|
||||
Octoplushy. This is one of those designs that have no explanation. I was almost
|
||||
done with the `hi` design, so I had plushies on my mind. The sea, and it's
|
||||
inhabitants must have been on my mind, for all of a sudden "octoplushy" pops
|
||||
into my thoughts. Where that came from, I don't know. But with that name, I
|
||||
could not ignore what I was apparently destined to work on next.
|
||||
|
||||
A plushy octopus. With a cute name. That had to become something very cuddly.
|
||||
The first attempt was a round head, complete with sewn smile and buttons for
|
||||
eyes, and eight arms to complete it. Using the eight arms and extending the
|
||||
upper part into segments for the head seemed logical. It worked out fine.
|
||||
|
||||
Then I decided that a more anatomically correct version should also be
|
||||
possible, just by tweaking the parameters somewhat, and moving the eyes down.
|
||||
And I figured I could then not forget the squid cousin too. So it turned into
|
||||
three designs in one.
|
||||
|
||||
Have fun making them. They're not hard to sew, but not easy to fill.
|
||||
|
||||
Wouter
|
||||
|
||||
## What You Need {#needs}
|
||||
|
||||
To make Octoplushy, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
|
||||
- About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable fabric (Upper body) (see [Fabric
|
||||
Options](#fabric))
|
||||
- About 0.75 meters (0.85 yards) of a suitable fabric (Belly) (see [Fabric
|
||||
Options](#fabric))
|
||||
- Either 2 buttons or a small piece of suitable unraveling, fabric for the eyes
|
||||
of the Octoplushy version
|
||||
- Small piece of black fabric for the pupils of the Squid and Octopus versions
|
||||
- Small piece of white fabric for the eyes of the Squid and Octopus versions
|
||||
- (Optional) Topstitch or Embroidery thread for the mouth of the Octoplushy
|
||||
version
|
||||
- Stuffing
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
This list is based on a default Octoplushy and you may need less or more fabric
|
||||
dependant on the [size you are making
|
||||
Octoplushy](/docs/designs/octoplushy/options#size).
|
||||
|
||||
The amount of fabric required is also dependant on the [type of Octoplushy you
|
||||
are making](/docs/designs/octoplushy/options#type).
|
||||
|
||||
- The Octopus version requires about 50% more fabric than the Octoplushy
|
||||
version.
|
||||
- The Squid version requires about 75% more fabric than the Octoplushy version.
|
||||
|
||||
The color of the pupils and eyes for the Squid and Octopus versions are up to
|
||||
you, but for clarification and simplicity the pupils will be referred to as
|
||||
black and the eyes will be referred to as white in the documentation.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
|
||||
|
||||
### Main and Contrast Body Fabrics (Upper body and legs, belly and underside legs)
|
||||
|
||||
This plush toy is intended to have two different coloured fabrics, one for the
|
||||
upper body and top side of the legs, one for the belly and underside of the
|
||||
legs.
|
||||
|
||||
Octoplushy is designed for faux fur fabric, which most plush toys are made
|
||||
from, but you could also use polar fleece, felt, denim, corduroy, or anything
|
||||
moderately heavy. Lightweight or drapey fabrics may not hold Octoplushy's shape
|
||||
well when stuffed. Fabrics with a two-way stretch will work better than wovens,
|
||||
the stretch should be perpendicular to the grainline.
|
||||
|
||||
### Stuffing
|
||||
|
||||
Since this is a plush toy, it will need to be stuffed with material. Most of
|
||||
the time you'll want to use polyester fiberfill (polyfill), but if you have a
|
||||
lot of fabric scraps, you can use shredded scrap fabric. However this may be
|
||||
heavier and less soft than fiberfill. It's also worth thinking about whether
|
||||
your Octoplushy may be at risk of getting dirty, or want to go for a swim, as
|
||||
not all stuffing options are washable.
|
||||
|
||||
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
|
||||
|
||||
- **Color 1 (Upper body, top of legs & head)**
|
||||
|
||||
- **Octoplushy, Octopus & Squid**
|
||||
- Cut **8 head** parts
|
||||
- **Octopus only**
|
||||
- Cut **2 eyebrow** parts
|
||||
- **Squid only**
|
||||
- Cut **2 head (a)** parts
|
||||
|
||||
- **Color 2 (Belly, bottom of legs)**
|
||||
|
||||
- **Octoplushy, Octopus & Squid**
|
||||
- Cut **8 leg** parts
|
||||
- **Squid only**
|
||||
- Cut **2 leg (a)** parts
|
||||
|
||||
- **Eyes Fabric**
|
||||
- **Octopus & Squid**
|
||||
- Cut **2 eye (white)** parts
|
||||
- Cut **2 pupil (black)** parts
|
||||
86
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/instructions/readme.mdx
Normal file
86
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/instructions/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,86 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Otis romper: Sewing Instructions'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
|
||||
sidebar_position: 20
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
You should use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine. Small zig-zag stitches work really well. The side seams can also be done with a serger.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
## Step 1: Bindings
|
||||
|
||||
### Two options
|
||||
|
||||
There are two ways to do the bindings. You can use it like double-folded bias binding, or just fold it in two and stitch that to the pieces. The double-folding will look nicer and more finished, but is a lot more involved.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Double-folded
|
||||
|
||||
- Fold both bindings along the long side in two, _wrong sides together_, and give it a good press.
|
||||
- Mark the middle of each of the bindings (notch) and of the front and back parts.
|
||||
- Attach the binding to the corresponding part, _good sides together_. Make sure you distribute the binding evenly along the edge.
|
||||
- Sew just shy of the SA.
|
||||
- Press the binding towards the edge and flip your part over.
|
||||
- Now fold the remaining SA under and press.
|
||||
- Sew this side of the binding to the part through all five layers.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Fold and stitch
|
||||
|
||||
- Fold both bindings along the long side in two, _wrong sides together_, and give it a good press.
|
||||
- Mark the middle of each of the bindings and of the front and back parts.
|
||||
- Attach the folded binding to the corresponding part, _good sides together_. Make sure you distribute the binding evenly along the edge. You should have three layers pinned together.
|
||||
- Sew just shy of the SA.
|
||||
- Press the binding towards the edge, pressing the SA towards the _wrong side_.
|
||||
- Sew through the part and the SA underneath, holding the folded SA on the _wrong side_.
|
||||
|
||||
## Step 2: Attach body parts
|
||||
|
||||
- Lay the back and front parts with the _good sides up_, tops facing each other.
|
||||
- Lay the front part shoulders on top of the back part shoulders, aligning the notches on the left and right.
|
||||
- Baste or pin together.
|
||||
|
||||
## Step 3: Attach sleeves
|
||||
|
||||
- Mark the middle of the shoulder of each sleeve.
|
||||
- Pin the sleeve to the two body parts, aligning the middle of the sleeve with the shoulder notch.
|
||||
- Distribute the sleeve evenly along the opening.
|
||||
- Sew the pieces together.
|
||||
|
||||
## Step 4: Prepare snap placket
|
||||
|
||||
- (Optional) If your fabric is flimsy, or very stretchy, cut a piece of iron-on interfacing the size of the snap placket and iron it in place.
|
||||
- Press the SA of the snap placket over, and then press the snap placket in two.
|
||||
- Sew just along the inner edge on the snap placket.
|
||||
|
||||
## Step 5: Body
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
You can reinforce the sleeve openings now if you're so inclined. Add some iron-on interfacing tape to the hem of the sleeve. This will keep the sleeve opening looking nice if you have flimsy or stretchy fabric.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
- Press the sleeve SA and hem over, so it'll be easier to sew the hem once you've done the next steps.
|
||||
- Pin both front and back sides together, _wrong sides out_, from the leg opening all the way to the arm opening in the sleeve.
|
||||
- Sew the whole seam on both sides.
|
||||
- Turn the romper _good sides out_.
|
||||
|
||||
## Step 6: Hem
|
||||
|
||||
- Fold the hems on the sleeves in.
|
||||
- Sew them in place.
|
||||
|
||||
## Step 7: Leg binding
|
||||
|
||||
- Fold the leg binding in two length-wise, _wrong sides together_, and press.
|
||||
- Hold the ends _good sides together_, and sew the SA at the ends.
|
||||
- Fold the binding back, _wrong sides together_.
|
||||
- Pin the binding to the leg opening, matching the notch to the side seam, and the beginning and end to the snap placket.
|
||||
- Sew this binding to the leg opening like you did with the earlier bindings.
|
||||
|
||||
## Step 8: Snaps
|
||||
|
||||
- Mark the position of the snaps along the snap placket, evenly distributed.
|
||||
- Install the studs on the _good side_ of the back part, and the sockets on the _wrong side_ of the front part.
|
||||
|
||||
## Step 9: Done!
|
||||
|
||||
Give it a good press all around and take a moment to enjoy the new romper. This will be the last time it will ever look this nice.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Binding'
|
||||
sidebar_class_name: hidden
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Binding determines the size of the binding for the neck and leg openings.
|
||||
|
||||
The binding is a percentage of the waist divided by 4. Default is 11%
|
||||
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