Merge branch 'develop' of github.com:freesewing/freesewing into develop

LATEST_DEVELOPER_NEWS.md

@@ -12,11 +12,9 @@ Take a look at our new development blog, which you can read at [2022.freesewing.
 If you'd like to get involved in this effort, head over to [discord.freesewing.org](https://discord.freesewing.org/) and join the **v3** channel.
 
 
-##### Next contributor call on 2 October
+##### Next contributor call on 30 October
 
-The next contributor call is on **2 October 2021**, Lucian and Karen will host it.
+The next contributor call is on **30 October 2021**, Lucian and Karen will host it.
-
-There will also be a [developer call](https://github.com/freesewing/freesewing/issues/1352) 30 minutes prior.
 
 The call is on [discord.freesewing.org](https://discord.freesewing.org/).
 Check the meetings voice/video channel.

LATEST_NEWS.md

@@ -1,14 +1,14 @@
-##### New pattern: The Yuri Hoodie
+##### New patterns: Bee, Lunetius, Tiberius, and Walburga
 
-Check out the latest addition to our catalog: [the Yuri hoodie pattern](/designs/yuri/).
+Check out the latest additions to our catalog: the [Bee bikini](/designs/bee/), [Lunetius Lacerna](/designs/lunetius/), [Tiberius Tunica](/designs/tiberius/), and [Walburga Wappenrock](/designs/walburga/).
 
-Yuri is a fancy zipless cardigan based on the Huey & Hugo hoodies.
+Bee is a bikini pattern, while Lunetius, Tiberius, and Walburga are historical patterns.
 
-##### Next contributor call on 2 October
+Read more in [our blog](/blog/freesewing-2-19/).
 
-The next contributor call is on **2 October 2021**, Lucian and Karen will host it.
+##### Next contributor call on 30 October
 
-There will also be a [developer call](https://github.com/freesewing/freesewing/issues/1352) 30 minutes prior.
+The next contributor call is on **30 October 2021**, Lucian and Karen will host it.
 
 The call is on [discord.freesewing.org](https://discord.freesewing.org/).
 Check the meetings voice/video channel.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/cutting/en.md

@@ -1,7 +1,20 @@
-To make Bella, you'll need:
+---
+title: Bella Cutting
+---
 
- - 1 Front
+**Main fabric**
- - 2 Back
+
+ - Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
+ - Cut **2 Back** parts.
+
+
+These cutting instructions are just for the default Bella block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block.
+
+<Tip>
+
+If you do not have someone to help pin you into Bella then you may find it easier to Cut 2 Front parts with seam allowance and sew the backs up when constructing so you can pin in the front.
+
+</Tip>
 
 <Note>
 

markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/fabric/en.md

@@ -1,3 +1,11 @@
+---
+title: Bella Fabric options
+---
+
+If you are making a default Bella to see how it fits we recommend a fabric such as **Calico (Muslin)** or a cheaper fabric that matches the drape and stretch of the fabric you intend to make a finalised version of Bella with.  
+
+You can use scraps of fabrics from your stash so don't worry about buying fabric specifically for Bella.
+
 <Note>
 
 ###### Bella is a block, not a pattern

markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/instructions/en.md

@@ -1,3 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: Bella Construction
+---
+
 <Note>
 
 ###### Bella is a block, not a pattern
@@ -5,6 +9,56 @@
 A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
 They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
 
-Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
+Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns so the instructions below will not go in depth about closures or finishes and are for the default Bella block.
 
 </Note>
+
+### Step 1: Mock-up Construction
+
+__1.__ Close the front bust and waist darts.  
+__2.__ Close the back darts.  
+__3.__ Sew the front to the backs at the shoulders right sides together.  
+__4.__ Sew the front to the backs at the side seams right sides together.  
+
+<Tip>
+
+If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams wrong sides together to make them easier to adjust.
+
+</Tip>
+
+### Step 2: Try it on
+
+__1.__ Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.  
+__2.__ Make any alterations and try it on again.  
+__3.__ Repeat until you are happy.  
+
+<Tip>
+  
+If you do not have someone to help with pinning, you may find it easier to cut the front part in two with seam allowance rather than on a fold and sew the back seam up so that you can pin in the front when trying on.
+ 
+</Tip>
+
+<Note>
+  
+Remember to treat Bella as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look.  
+For instance:
+- Change the neck line
+- Add/change the closure allowances  
+- Alter the dart placements
+- Add a collar
+
+It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
+
+</Note>
+
+### Step 3: Make a paper pattern
+
+__1.__ Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.  
+__2.__ Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.  
+
+<Note>
+
+It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.
+
+</Note>
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/needs/en.md

@@ -1,3 +1,14 @@
+---
+title: Bella What you need
+---
+
+To make Bella, you will need the following:
+
+- Basic sewing supplies
+- About 0.5 metres of a suitable fabric ([see Bella Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bella/fabric/))
+
+This list is for a default Bella Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.
+
 <Note>
 
 ###### Bella is a block, not a pattern

markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlton/options/en.md

@@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
 ---
 ---
 
-<PatternOptions pattern='carlon' />
+<PatternOptions pattern='carlton' />
 

markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/en.md

@@ -4,13 +4,10 @@ title: Cuff style
 
 This pattern supports three different cuff styles:
 
- - Traditional
+ - **Traditional**: A single buttoned *curved* band with a pointed edge.  
- - Elegant
+ - **Elegant**: A single buttoned *straight* band with a pointed edge.  
- - Keystone
+ - **Keystone**: A slightly curved band that is wider than the others using 3 buttons rather than 1. This one is based of off the one in the Keystone Draft this pattern is based on.  
-
-<Fixme>Describe the different styles</Fixme>
-
 
 
 ## Effect of this option on the pattern
-![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](cornelius_cuffstyle_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")
+![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](cornelius_cuffstyle_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/buttonhole/en.md

@@ -1,3 +1,9 @@
+---
+title: Buttonhole guide
+---
+
+Adds a buttonhole to the ear flap to help you draft the buttonhole ear flap variant
+
 
 ## Effect of this option on the pattern
 ![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_buttonhole_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/earlength/en.md

@@ -1,3 +1,8 @@
+---
+title: Ear flap length
+---
+
+Controls the length of the ear flaps independently from the crown pieces
 
 
 ## Effect of this option on the pattern

markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/earwidth/en.md

@@ -1,3 +1,9 @@
+---
+title: Ear flap width
+---
+
+Controls the width of the ear flaps
+
 
 ## Effect of this option on the pattern
 ![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_earwidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/gorenumber/en.md

@@ -1,7 +1,9 @@
 ---
-title: Number of gores
+title: Number of crown pieces
 ---
 
+Controls the number of panels there are in the crown
+
 
 ## Effect of this option on the pattern
 ![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_gorenumber_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/headease/en.md

@@ -1,3 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: Head ease
+---
 
 The amount of ease around your head.
 

markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/lengthratio/en.md

@@ -2,6 +2,8 @@
 title: Length ratio
 ---
 
+Controls the length of the crown and ear flaps
+
 
 ## Effect of this option on the pattern
 ![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_lengthratio_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorangle/en.md

@@ -1,7 +1,9 @@
-***
+---
+title: Visor angle
+---
+
+The arc angle used to draft the inner curve of the visor
 
-## title: Visor angle
 
 ## Effect of this option on the pattern
-
 ![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes\_visorangle\_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorlength/en.md

@@ -1,3 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: Visor length
+---
 
 Controls the length of the visor
 

markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorwidth/en.md

@@ -1,9 +1,9 @@
-***
+---
-
+title: Visor width
-## title: Visor width
+---
 
 Controls the width of the visor
 
-## Effect of this option on the pattern
 
+## Effect of this option on the pattern
 ![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes\_visorwidth\_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

packages/cornelius/config/index.js

@@ -22,6 +22,7 @@ export default {
     'legbandkeystone',
     'pocket',
     'pocketfacing',
+    'zipperguard',
   ],
   inject: {
     front: 'frontpoints',
@@ -44,6 +45,7 @@ export default {
     legband: ['back', 'front'],
     legbandkeystone: ['back', 'front'],
     waistband: ['back', 'front'],
+    zipperguard: 'front',
   },
   hide: ['frontpoints'],
   options: {

packages/cornelius/src/front.js

@@ -44,6 +44,7 @@ export default function (part) {
     .setRender(false)
 
   paths.flyFold = new Path().move(points.pW).line(points.pZ).attr('class', 'fabric dashed')
+  store.set('flyLength', paths.flyFold.length())
 
   store.set('frontWaistLength', paths.waistSeam.line(points.flyTop).length())
 
@@ -111,6 +112,7 @@ export default function (part) {
     snippets.n2 = new Snippet('notch', points.pJ)
     snippets.n3 = new Snippet('notch', points.pocketWaist)
     snippets.n4 = new Snippet('notch', points.pocketSide)
+    snippets.n5 = new Snippet('notch', points.pZ)
 
     // Keystone original (see above):
     if (keystone) {

packages/cornelius/src/index.js

@@ -9,6 +9,7 @@ import draftLegbandkeystone from './legbandkeystone'
 import draftWaistband from './waistband'
 import draftPocketfacing from './pocketfacing'
 import draftPocket from './pocket'
+import draftZipperguard from './zipperguard'
 // import draftPlacket from './placket'
 
 // Create new design
@@ -23,6 +24,7 @@ Pattern.prototype.draftLegbandkeystone = draftLegbandkeystone
 Pattern.prototype.draftWaistband = draftWaistband
 Pattern.prototype.draftPocketfacing = draftPocketfacing
 Pattern.prototype.draftPocket = draftPocket
+Pattern.prototype.draftZipperguard = draftZipperguard
 // Pattern.prototype.draftPlacket = draftPlacket
 
 export default Pattern

packages/cornelius/src/legband.js

@@ -9,7 +9,7 @@ function findR(part, height, arcLength) {
     if (diff < 0) {
       a = a * (0.995 + diff / 1000)
     } else {
-      a = a * (1.002 + diff / 1000)
+      a = a * (1.003 + diff / 1000)
     }
     diff = (a * height) / (1 - Math.cos(a / 2)) - arcLength
     iter++

packages/cornelius/src/zipperguard.js

@@ -0,0 +1,77 @@
+export default function (part) {
+  let { Point, Path, points, paths, Snippet, snippets, complete, sa, store, paperless, macro } =
+    part.shorthand()
+  
+  const cc = 0.551915024494 // circle constant
+
+    let halfInch = store.get('halfInch')
+    let flyWidth = store.get('flyWidth') *halfInch
+    let flyLength = store.get('flyLength')
+    console.log( {flyWidth: flyWidth, flyLength: flyLength})
+  
+    points.pA = new Point(0, 0)
+    points.pB = points.pA.shift(180, flyWidth)
+    points.pC = points.pB.shift(270, flyLength -flyWidth)
+    points.pD = points.pA.shift(270, flyLength)
+    points.pDcpC = points.pD.shift(180, flyWidth * cc)
+    points.pCcpD = points.pC.shift(270, flyWidth * cc)
+
+    console.log( points.pA )
+    console.log( points.pB )
+    console.log( points.pC )
+    console.log( points.pD )
+
+    paths.seam = new Path()
+      .move(points.pA)
+      .line(points.pB)
+      .line(points.pC)
+      .curve(points.pCcpD, points.pDcpC, points.pD)
+      .attr('class', 'fabric')
+  
+    paths.seam2 = new Path().move(points.pD).line(points.pA).attr('class', 'fabric')
+  
+    if (complete) {
+      macro('cutonfold', {
+        from: points.pD,
+        to: points.pA,
+      })
+  
+      points.logo = points.pA.shiftFractionTowards(points.pC, 0.5)
+      snippets.logo = new Snippet('logo', points.logo)
+      points.title = points.logo.shift(90, 70)
+      macro('title', {
+        nr: 4,
+        at: points.title,
+        title: 'ZipperGuard',
+      })
+      points.__titleNr.attr('data-text-class', 'center')
+      points.__titleName.attr('data-text-class', 'center')
+      points.__titlePattern.attr('data-text-class', 'center')
+  
+      if (sa) {
+        paths.sa = new Path()
+          .move(points.pA)
+          .line(points.pA.shift(90, sa))
+          .join(paths.seam.offset(sa))
+          .line(points.pD)
+          .attr('class', 'fabric sa')
+      }
+    }
+  
+    // Paperless?
+    if (paperless) {
+      macro('hd', {
+        from: points.pB,
+        to: points.pA,
+        y: points.pA.y - sa - 15,
+      })
+      macro('vd', {
+        from: points.pA,
+        to: points.pD,
+        x: points.pA.x + 15,
+      })
+    }
+  
+    return part
+  }
+  

packages/hortensia/config/index.js

@@ -29,7 +29,7 @@ export default {
     pctHandleSpace: 50,
     pctHandleVert: 42,
     strapLength: { pct: 160, min: 75, max: 250 },
-    handleWidth: { pct: 10, min: 5, max: 30 },
+    handleWidth: { pct: 8.6, min: 4, max: 25 },
     size: { pct: 50, min: 20, max: 200 },
     zipperSize: { dflt: '#5', list: ['#3', '#4', '#4.5', '#5', '#6', '#8', '#10', 'Invisible'] },
   },

packages/hortensia/src/strap.js

@@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ export default function (part) {
   let { store, options, Point, Path, points, paths, complete, sa, paperless, macro } =
     part.shorthand()
 
-  let w = options.handleWidth
+  let w = store.get('width') * options.handleWidth
   let h = store.get('depth') * options.strapLength
   if (sa > w * 0.8) {
     sa = w * 0.8