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Merge branch 'develop' of github.com:freesewing/freesewing into develop

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joostdecock 2021-10-23 14:14:00 +02:00
commit c173e31fd7
24 changed files with 226 additions and 33 deletions

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@ -12,11 +12,9 @@ Take a look at our new development blog, which you can read at [2022.freesewing.
If you'd like to get involved in this effort, head over to [discord.freesewing.org](https://discord.freesewing.org/) and join the **v3** channel.
##### Next contributor call on 2 October
##### Next contributor call on 30 October
The next contributor call is on **2 October 2021**, Lucian and Karen will host it.
There will also be a [developer call](https://github.com/freesewing/freesewing/issues/1352) 30 minutes prior.
The next contributor call is on **30 October 2021**, Lucian and Karen will host it.
The call is on [discord.freesewing.org](https://discord.freesewing.org/).
Check the meetings voice/video channel.

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@ -1,14 +1,14 @@
##### New pattern: The Yuri Hoodie
##### New patterns: Bee, Lunetius, Tiberius, and Walburga
Check out the latest addition to our catalog: [the Yuri hoodie pattern](/designs/yuri/).
Check out the latest additions to our catalog: the [Bee bikini](/designs/bee/), [Lunetius Lacerna](/designs/lunetius/), [Tiberius Tunica](/designs/tiberius/), and [Walburga Wappenrock](/designs/walburga/).
Yuri is a fancy zipless cardigan based on the Huey & Hugo hoodies.
Bee is a bikini pattern, while Lunetius, Tiberius, and Walburga are historical patterns.
##### Next contributor call on 2 October
Read more in [our blog](/blog/freesewing-2-19/).
The next contributor call is on **2 October 2021**, Lucian and Karen will host it.
##### Next contributor call on 30 October
There will also be a [developer call](https://github.com/freesewing/freesewing/issues/1352) 30 minutes prior.
The next contributor call is on **30 October 2021**, Lucian and Karen will host it.
The call is on [discord.freesewing.org](https://discord.freesewing.org/).
Check the meetings voice/video channel.

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@ -1,7 +1,20 @@
To make Bella, you'll need:
---
title: Bella Cutting
---
- 1 Front
- 2 Back
**Main fabric**
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
- Cut **2 Back** parts.
These cutting instructions are just for the default Bella block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block.
<Tip>
If you do not have someone to help pin you into Bella then you may find it easier to Cut 2 Front parts with seam allowance and sew the backs up when constructing so you can pin in the front.
</Tip>
<Note>

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@ -1,3 +1,11 @@
---
title: Bella Fabric options
---
If you are making a default Bella to see how it fits we recommend a fabric such as **Calico (Muslin)** or a cheaper fabric that matches the drape and stretch of the fabric you intend to make a finalised version of Bella with.
You can use scraps of fabrics from your stash so don't worry about buying fabric specifically for Bella.
<Note>
###### Bella is a block, not a pattern

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@ -1,3 +1,7 @@
---
title: Bella Construction
---
<Note>
###### Bella is a block, not a pattern
@ -5,6 +9,56 @@
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns so the instructions below will not go in depth about closures or finishes and are for the default Bella block.
</Note>
### Step 1: Mock-up Construction
__1.__ Close the front bust and waist darts.
__2.__ Close the back darts.
__3.__ Sew the front to the backs at the shoulders right sides together.
__4.__ Sew the front to the backs at the side seams right sides together.
<Tip>
If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams wrong sides together to make them easier to adjust.
</Tip>
### Step 2: Try it on
__1.__ Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
__2.__ Make any alterations and try it on again.
__3.__ Repeat until you are happy.
<Tip>
If you do not have someone to help with pinning, you may find it easier to cut the front part in two with seam allowance rather than on a fold and sew the back seam up so that you can pin in the front when trying on.
</Tip>
<Note>
Remember to treat Bella as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look.
For instance:
- Change the neck line
- Add/change the closure allowances
- Alter the dart placements
- Add a collar
It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
</Note>
### Step 3: Make a paper pattern
__1.__ Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
__2.__ Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
<Note>
It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.
</Note>

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@ -1,3 +1,14 @@
---
title: Bella What you need
---
To make Bella, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 metres of a suitable fabric ([see Bella Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bella/fabric/))
This list is for a default Bella Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.
<Note>
###### Bella is a block, not a pattern

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@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
---
---
<PatternOptions pattern='carlon' />
<PatternOptions pattern='carlton' />

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@ -4,12 +4,9 @@ title: Cuff style
This pattern supports three different cuff styles:
- Traditional
- Elegant
- Keystone
<Fixme>Describe the different styles</Fixme>
- **Traditional**: A single buttoned *curved* band with a pointed edge.
- **Elegant**: A single buttoned *straight* band with a pointed edge.
- **Keystone**: A slightly curved band that is wider than the others using 3 buttons rather than 1. This one is based of off the one in the Keystone Draft this pattern is based on.
## Effect of this option on the pattern

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@ -1,3 +1,9 @@
---
title: Buttonhole guide
---
Adds a buttonhole to the ear flap to help you draft the buttonhole ear flap variant
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_buttonhole_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -1,3 +1,8 @@
---
title: Ear flap length
---
Controls the length of the ear flaps independently from the crown pieces
## Effect of this option on the pattern

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@ -1,3 +1,9 @@
---
title: Ear flap width
---
Controls the width of the ear flaps
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_earwidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -1,7 +1,9 @@
---
title: Number of gores
title: Number of crown pieces
---
Controls the number of panels there are in the crown
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_gorenumber_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -1,3 +1,6 @@
---
title: Head ease
---
The amount of ease around your head.

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@ -2,6 +2,8 @@
title: Length ratio
---
Controls the length of the crown and ear flaps
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_lengthratio_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -1,7 +1,9 @@
***
---
title: Visor angle
---
The arc angle used to draft the inner curve of the visor
## title: Visor angle
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes\_visorangle\_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -1,3 +1,6 @@
---
title: Visor length
---
Controls the length of the visor

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@ -1,9 +1,9 @@
***
## title: Visor width
---
title: Visor width
---
Controls the width of the visor
## Effect of this option on the pattern
## Effect of this option on the pattern
![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes\_visorwidth\_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern")

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@ -22,6 +22,7 @@ export default {
'legbandkeystone',
'pocket',
'pocketfacing',
'zipperguard',
],
inject: {
front: 'frontpoints',
@ -44,6 +45,7 @@ export default {
legband: ['back', 'front'],
legbandkeystone: ['back', 'front'],
waistband: ['back', 'front'],
zipperguard: 'front',
},
hide: ['frontpoints'],
options: {

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@ -44,6 +44,7 @@ export default function (part) {
.setRender(false)
paths.flyFold = new Path().move(points.pW).line(points.pZ).attr('class', 'fabric dashed')
store.set('flyLength', paths.flyFold.length())
store.set('frontWaistLength', paths.waistSeam.line(points.flyTop).length())
@ -111,6 +112,7 @@ export default function (part) {
snippets.n2 = new Snippet('notch', points.pJ)
snippets.n3 = new Snippet('notch', points.pocketWaist)
snippets.n4 = new Snippet('notch', points.pocketSide)
snippets.n5 = new Snippet('notch', points.pZ)
// Keystone original (see above):
if (keystone) {

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@ -9,6 +9,7 @@ import draftLegbandkeystone from './legbandkeystone'
import draftWaistband from './waistband'
import draftPocketfacing from './pocketfacing'
import draftPocket from './pocket'
import draftZipperguard from './zipperguard'
// import draftPlacket from './placket'
// Create new design
@ -23,6 +24,7 @@ Pattern.prototype.draftLegbandkeystone = draftLegbandkeystone
Pattern.prototype.draftWaistband = draftWaistband
Pattern.prototype.draftPocketfacing = draftPocketfacing
Pattern.prototype.draftPocket = draftPocket
Pattern.prototype.draftZipperguard = draftZipperguard
// Pattern.prototype.draftPlacket = draftPlacket
export default Pattern

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@ -9,7 +9,7 @@ function findR(part, height, arcLength) {
if (diff < 0) {
a = a * (0.995 + diff / 1000)
} else {
a = a * (1.002 + diff / 1000)
a = a * (1.003 + diff / 1000)
}
diff = (a * height) / (1 - Math.cos(a / 2)) - arcLength
iter++

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@ -0,0 +1,77 @@
export default function (part) {
let { Point, Path, points, paths, Snippet, snippets, complete, sa, store, paperless, macro } =
part.shorthand()
const cc = 0.551915024494 // circle constant
let halfInch = store.get('halfInch')
let flyWidth = store.get('flyWidth') *halfInch
let flyLength = store.get('flyLength')
console.log( {flyWidth: flyWidth, flyLength: flyLength})
points.pA = new Point(0, 0)
points.pB = points.pA.shift(180, flyWidth)
points.pC = points.pB.shift(270, flyLength -flyWidth)
points.pD = points.pA.shift(270, flyLength)
points.pDcpC = points.pD.shift(180, flyWidth * cc)
points.pCcpD = points.pC.shift(270, flyWidth * cc)
console.log( points.pA )
console.log( points.pB )
console.log( points.pC )
console.log( points.pD )
paths.seam = new Path()
.move(points.pA)
.line(points.pB)
.line(points.pC)
.curve(points.pCcpD, points.pDcpC, points.pD)
.attr('class', 'fabric')
paths.seam2 = new Path().move(points.pD).line(points.pA).attr('class', 'fabric')
if (complete) {
macro('cutonfold', {
from: points.pD,
to: points.pA,
})
points.logo = points.pA.shiftFractionTowards(points.pC, 0.5)
snippets.logo = new Snippet('logo', points.logo)
points.title = points.logo.shift(90, 70)
macro('title', {
nr: 4,
at: points.title,
title: 'ZipperGuard',
})
points.__titleNr.attr('data-text-class', 'center')
points.__titleName.attr('data-text-class', 'center')
points.__titlePattern.attr('data-text-class', 'center')
if (sa) {
paths.sa = new Path()
.move(points.pA)
.line(points.pA.shift(90, sa))
.join(paths.seam.offset(sa))
.line(points.pD)
.attr('class', 'fabric sa')
}
}
// Paperless?
if (paperless) {
macro('hd', {
from: points.pB,
to: points.pA,
y: points.pA.y - sa - 15,
})
macro('vd', {
from: points.pA,
to: points.pD,
x: points.pA.x + 15,
})
}
return part
}

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@ -29,7 +29,7 @@ export default {
pctHandleSpace: 50,
pctHandleVert: 42,
strapLength: { pct: 160, min: 75, max: 250 },
handleWidth: { pct: 10, min: 5, max: 30 },
handleWidth: { pct: 8.6, min: 4, max: 25 },
size: { pct: 50, min: 20, max: 200 },
zipperSize: { dflt: '#5', list: ['#3', '#4', '#4.5', '#5', '#6', '#8', '#10', 'Invisible'] },
},

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@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ export default function (part) {
let { store, options, Point, Path, points, paths, complete, sa, paperless, macro } =
part.shorthand()
let w = options.handleWidth
let w = store.get('width') * options.handleWidth
let h = store.get('depth') * options.strapLength
if (sa > w * 0.8) {
sa = w * 0.8