Merge pull request #7103 from BenJamesBen/measurements-faq
fix(docs): Changes and additions to measurements FAQ
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@ -12,7 +12,11 @@ In the meantime, here are some places to start looking if you're having trouble
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Trouser problems are almost always caused by vertical measurements that determine the room we have to construct the pants top. For example, waist to upper leg *must* be longer than waist to seat; otherwise there is negative room to construct the pants.
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The waist measurement is an important vertical plane of reference. It doesn't matter that much where you take it, as long as you consistently measure all vertical measurements (waist to seat, waist to hips, HPS to waist, waist to floor, ...) from that same horizontal plane.
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The [waist](#waist) measurement location is an important vertical reference
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that should remain consistent during the measurement process.
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You should be measuring all waist-related vertical measurements
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(waist to seat, waist to hips, HPS to waist, waist to floor, ...)
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from that same horizontal plane.
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### Trouble measurements
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@ -24,6 +28,11 @@ The [waist to armpit](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/waisttoarmpit) is
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The waist to armpit measurement is used to calculate where the bottom
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of the sleeve opening is located.
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An incorrect waist to armpit measurement can affect the shape of the
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sleevecap and size of the sleeve opening.
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#### High point shoulder (HPS)
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[HPS](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/hps), which is used in several measurements, is one of the harder spots to get perfect.
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@ -58,8 +67,60 @@ In FreeSewing terms, hips is measured at the upper point of the hip bones. Some
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Seat is across the fullest part of your butt. Some other sources call this the "hip".
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##### Waist
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For FreeSewing patterns and measurements,
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the seat is always located below the hips.
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Where you take the [waist](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/waist) measurements is not necessarily connected to where, for instance, a waistband is.
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#### Waist
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The [waist](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/waist) measurement
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is important, and unfortunately it is also one of the most difficult
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measurements to locate and take correctly.
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##### Description
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When people hear "waist", they might think of where the waistband on
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trousers sits on the body.
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However, the "waist" is entirely different when referring to the
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sewing measurement.
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Instead, it is is the location on the body that is sometimes known as
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the "natural waist".
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- Typically it is above the hip bone and below the bottom of the ribcage.
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For some this is a very small area, and for others there's a much larger
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gap between the two.
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- It is sometimes described as the point at which your upper body bends
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when you bend sideways.
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- It is sometimes described as the narrowest part of your torso,
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(although this description will be unhelpful for people with larger
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stomachs, whose waists might _not_ be the narrowest part).
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- Often it is higher up on the torso than people expect,
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nearer to the ribcage than to the hips and above the navel.
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Again, thinking about trousers waistbands is often misleading and
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results in incorrect measurements.
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Trousers, slacks, and jeans that are not "high rise" have waistbands
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that sit well below the natural waist.
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Only high rise jeans sit close to, sometimes at, the natural waist.
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##### Measuring Tips
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Try bending sideways and noting the point where your body creases. (For bonus points, put your hand on your waist and sing "I'm a little teapot".)
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Or, take a length of 1/4-to-3/4-inch wide elastic and
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tie or sew the ends together to form a band around your waist,
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snug enough not to slide off, but loose enough to not change the
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waist circumference measurement.
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Now try bending from side to side (think "I'm a little teapot" movements),
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or otherwise moving and walking around to see if the elastic band
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naturally slips into place at the natural waist.
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Or, if this is uncomfortable or does not work, you can simply place
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the elastic band at the location you think most accurately denotes
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your natural waist.
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Keep wearing this elastic band as you take other measurements, as
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a consistent reference for the location of the waistline.
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It will make it easier to take other waist-related measurements
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like waist to floor, waist to armpit, etc.
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