Port Benjamin to Docusaurus
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sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/instructions/readme.mdx
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---
|
||||
title: 'Benjamin bow tie: Sewing Instructions'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
|
||||
sidebar_position: 20
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
## Notes and tips
|
||||
|
||||
### Precision
|
||||
|
||||
Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precision with sewing is key to a good result.
|
||||
Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out.
|
||||
To get a great result I found it very helpful to trace the actual seam lines
|
||||
onto the interfacing and follow that while sewing.
|
||||
|
||||
### Press wisely
|
||||
|
||||
Later in the construction steps, you will be asked to press your fabric. Please be careful
|
||||
that you are not using too much heat on a delicate fabric that can't handle it.
|
||||
|
||||
It's a good idea to try pressing some fabric scraps before you start. This will allow you to
|
||||
figure out what is a good heat setting for the fabric you are using.
|
||||
|
||||
### Choosing your grain
|
||||
|
||||
This pattern includes a grain line. This grain line is mostly there to be used with
|
||||
the interfacing. Since each pattern piece is interfaced, the grain line of the fabric
|
||||
itself is not so important. You can even change this from the standard for more
|
||||
informal impressions.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
If this all sounds very confusing, might I suggest reading the help
|
||||
page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware
|
||||
|
||||
By default, this design makes a fixed-length bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck size.
|
||||
However, by enabling the Adjustment Ribbon option, it can also make a tie
|
||||
that uses an adjustment ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie
|
||||
adjustable to different neck sizes. This is useful if not all of your shirts have
|
||||
the same neck measurements, or if you sometimes like shirts with more ease in the
|
||||
neck.
|
||||
|
||||
These adjustment ribbons and bow tie hardware can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
These instructions are for the type of adjustment ribbon that comes with
|
||||
holes at regular intervals, to be used in combination with two-piece
|
||||
hardware consisting of an oval loop part and a part with a smaller loop
|
||||
and attached T-shaped hook.
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||||
|
||||
There are other styles of bow tie ribbons and hardware, but their use is
|
||||
outside the scope of these instructions.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
### Seam allowance
|
||||
|
||||
Since the bow tie is constructed with the right sides of the fabric against each other,
|
||||
the whole thing will have to be turned inside out. You probably want to consider using
|
||||
a small seam allowance of 6mm (¼ inch) to reduce the bulk.
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||||
|
||||
## Construction
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 1: Apply interfacing
|
||||
|
||||
Apply interfacing to all parts where you feel it's needed.
|
||||
|
||||
### Without adjustment ribbon
|
||||
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||||
#### Step 2: Sew the bow to the collar band
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||||
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||||
Put one of the Collar Band parts on one of the Bow parts, right sides together.
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||||
Align the ends of both parts. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
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|
||||
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In a similar fashion, sew a second Bow part to the other end of the same Collar Band.
|
||||
|
||||
Repeat these steps to sew the other 2 Bows to the other Collar Band.
|
||||
|
||||
Press open all the seams.
|
||||
|
||||
You now have two identical single sided bow ties.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 3: Join both sides
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all
|
||||
along the edges, but leave an area of 5 cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through
|
||||
this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 4: Turning
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for
|
||||
a smooth curves.
|
||||
|
||||
Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny
|
||||
object, to turn the two sides right-side-out through the little opening. Start by
|
||||
gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the
|
||||
end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while
|
||||
pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take
|
||||
your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
Once you have the tie right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides
|
||||
out before giving it a good press.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 5: Closing
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Now all that is left is closing the little hole we used to turn the bow tie
|
||||
right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch.
|
||||
Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this
|
||||
will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
|
||||
|
||||
Now give it one last press and admire your work.
|
||||
|
||||
### With adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 2: Attaching the ribbon
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the Short Bow part.
|
||||
The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure
|
||||
that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as
|
||||
the long bow piece.
|
||||
|
||||
Put right sides of the Short Bow piece and the ribbon together.
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||||
|
||||
Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 3: Join both sides
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Lay both of the Medium Bow parts on top of each other, right sides together.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew all along the edges, but leave the short end open.
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||||
Through this opening we will turn the bow tie part right side out.
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||||
|
||||
Lay the Long Bow on top of the ribbon and Short Bow part, also right sides
|
||||
together.
|
||||
|
||||
Again, sew all along the edges, leaving the short end open.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 4: Turning
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for
|
||||
a smooth curves.
|
||||
|
||||
Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny
|
||||
object, to turn the two parts right-side-out through the ends. Start by
|
||||
gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the
|
||||
end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while
|
||||
pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take
|
||||
your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
Once you have the part right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides
|
||||
out before giving it a good press.
|
||||
|
||||
Do this with both parts.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 5: Add hardware
|
||||
|
||||
Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable.
|
||||
The oval loop piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon.
|
||||
And, the piece with the T-hook will go on the part with the ribbon.
|
||||
|
||||
First do the part without the ribbon. This is because the fabric tail of the
|
||||
ribbon piece will have to go through the oval part before sewing on its hardware.
|
||||
If you would do it in the other sequence, you may not be able to feed it through.
|
||||
|
||||
To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps,
|
||||
before sewing it in a fourth step:
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
1. First we fold the sides in at an angle.
|
||||
2. Then we fold the end over by just a small seam allowance, something like 5 mm.
|
||||
3. Then we fold it over again, for about 1 cm.
|
||||
4. Finally we stick the oval loop under this last fold and stitch across.
|
||||
|
||||
Now feed the adjustment ribbon piece through the oval loop, and
|
||||
attach the T-hook to the end of the ribbon, sewing it in the same way.
|
||||
|
||||
Hook the T in one of the adjustment holes and your bow tie is done!
|
||||
|
||||

|
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14
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/adjustmentribbon/readme.mdx
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|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Adjustment ribbon'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
With Benjamin, you can make a traditional fixed size bow tie. And you can
|
||||
make one that incorporates an adjustment ribbon. These are ribbons and pieces of hardware
|
||||
that allow you to change the neck size of the bow tie. Very handy when you have shirts
|
||||
with different neck sizes, or if you have different ease in the collar for some.
|
||||
|
||||
:::tip
|
||||
This is a great option if you decide to make a bow tie for someone else as a gift.
|
||||
:::
|
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8
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/bowlength/readme.mdx
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You can make wide bow ties, or narrow ones. This option allows you to change the horizontal size of the bows. Make
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sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/bowstyle/readme.mdx
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---
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title: 'Bow style'
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---
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Four different bow tie styles!
|
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|
||||
Benjamin allows you to make four different bow ties.
|
||||
|
||||
- Contemporary Diamond
|
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- Traditional Butterfly
|
||||
- Classic Square
|
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- Whimsical Wide Square
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
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---
|
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title: 'Collar band height'
|
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---
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Controls the height of the collar band (the width, if you will).
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15
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/collarease/readme.mdx
Executable file
|
@ -0,0 +1,15 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Collar ease'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Using the neck circumference is one part of getting a well-fitting bow tie. The other is how much collar ease you
|
||||
normally use for your shirts. Together they dictate how long the bow tie becomes.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
|
||||
#### Not used with the adjustment ribbon option
|
||||
|
||||
This option is used to make a precise fitting bow tie. When you use the adjustment ribbon, this option is not used.
|
||||
:::
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,117 @@
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12
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/endstyle/readme.mdx
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---
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title: 'End style'
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- Straight
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- Pointed
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13
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/knotwidth/readme.mdx
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---
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title: 'Knot width'
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---
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:::note
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With the Square type bow tie, this value also dictates the width of the tips
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:::
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50
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/readme.mdx
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---
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title: 'Benjamin bow tie: Design Options'
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sidebar_label: Design Options
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sidebar_position: 10
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---
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import Adjustmentribbon from '@site/docs/designs/benjamin/options/adjustmentribbon/readme.mdx'
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import Bowlength from '@site/docs/designs/benjamin/options/bowlength/readme.mdx'
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import Tipwidth from '@site/docs/designs/benjamin/options/tipwidth/readme.mdx'
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## Style
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<Knotwidth />
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<Tipwidth />
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15
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/tipwidth/readme.mdx
Executable file
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@ -0,0 +1,15 @@
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---
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title: 'Tip width'
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---
|
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|
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|
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You can make BIG bow ties, or small ones. This option allows you to change the vertical size of the bows. Make
|
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them larger to be more flamboyant, or small for a more subdued style.
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|
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:::note
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#### Not used with the Square bow tie type
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This option is ignored with the Square bow tie option. Square bow ties are as wide as the knot width.
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:::
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 10 KiB |
104
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,104 @@
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|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Benjamin bow tie'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Benjamin bow tie
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
<DesignInfo design="benjamin" />
|
||||
|
||||
## Designer Notes {#notes}
|
||||
|
||||
Benjamin is the first design I have ever made for FreeSewing. I had just discovered Joost's site, then
|
||||
still called MakeMyPattern. The site only had designs made by Joost, and he invited others to help
|
||||
him. This seemed like something I could undertake. Since I had no experience with making patterns,
|
||||
my first attempt should be a simple one. The site already had a pattern for a tie, yet I prefer bow ties.
|
||||
So that would be something I could contribute.
|
||||
|
||||
In the concept of MakeMyPattern was the possibility of patterns not only adapting to the measurements of
|
||||
the sewist, but also that patterns could change depending on the options one would like. So I tried
|
||||
to incorporate some options that I thought bow ties should have.
|
||||
|
||||
The bow tie can be made to be tied traditionally, and it also allows for a specific band to be added
|
||||
that will make the bow tie adjustable. These can be found in speciality stores, and are available online.
|
||||
|
||||
Because of the precision needed, and the curved seams, this may not be the easiest pattern to start
|
||||
with. But is is a nice one to help you use those scraps from other projects.
|
||||
|
||||
Wouter
|
||||
|
||||
## What You Need {#needs}
|
||||
|
||||
To make Benjamin, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- Basic sewing supplies
|
||||
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/designs/benjamin/fabric/)). Left over
|
||||
pieces of a recent project could work too.
|
||||
- About the same amount of interfacing
|
||||
- Optionally: Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware
|
||||
|
||||
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
|
||||
|
||||
The bow ties you find in the store are typically make out of silk or some imitation silk poly.
|
||||
So it will come as no surprise that those are good options. Any type of fabric that you like
|
||||
the pattern or looks of can become a candidate for a bow tie. The only real limitation is
|
||||
that the bow tie will have to be turned inside out through a tube that is only 2cm across.
|
||||
With some thicker fabrics, this will be a difficult proposition.
|
||||
|
||||
Bow ties are more whimsical than normal ties, so having a fun pattern or loud colour is not
|
||||
as much of a problem as it would be with a regular tie.
|
||||
|
||||
Silk and silk imitation is slippery and tricky to work with. This can be compensated for with
|
||||
a fusible interfacing.
|
||||
|
||||
### Interfacing
|
||||
|
||||
Depending on the fabric you chose for your bow tie, you will probably need interfacing. Interfacing
|
||||
comes in two main types: fusible and sew-in.
|
||||
|
||||
The fusible variety has some adhesive attached to one side that is activated with the heat
|
||||
of your iron. This attaches the interfacing to the fabric and the two can then be used as one.
|
||||
Fusible interfacing can be a great option if your fabric allows the heat required, and you
|
||||
use a quality interfacing. Some lesser quality interfacings can have the adhesive detach,
|
||||
and this shows as bubbles on the fabric surface later on in the life of your bow tie. Good
|
||||
quality interfacings and correctly following the guidelines for adhering the interfacing
|
||||
will not present these problems.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew-in interfacing is sew into place before the fabric pieces are used. You attach the
|
||||
interfacing to the fabric by sewing the two together inside the seam allowance. If you use
|
||||
a seam allowance of 6mm, you will sew the interfacing at 3mm.
|
||||
Anything may work as a sew-in interfacing, including an extra layer of the same fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
The key part of the interfacing is to give your bow tie the structure you like. You can have
|
||||
a bow tie that stands proud and crisp. Or one that droops a bit at the tips. This is all about
|
||||
your preference.
|
||||
|
||||
It is good to experiment with the interfacing on a scrap piece of your fabric, specially with
|
||||
the fusible kind. You want to make sure you get the structure you like before committing it
|
||||
to your pattern pieces.
|
||||
|
||||
Although the pattern calls for applying interfacing to all parts, if you have thick or stiff
|
||||
fabric, you may be able to only do one side, or no sides at all.
|
||||
|
||||
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
|
||||
|
||||
Benjamin is a rather simple pattern, but your options will determine what
|
||||
needs to be cut out. Below are two typical layouts.
|
||||
|
||||
### Without adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
- **Main fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **4 Bow** parts
|
||||
- Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
|
||||
- **Interfacing**
|
||||
- Cut **4 Bow** parts
|
||||
- Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
|
||||
|
||||
### With adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
- **Main fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **1 Short Bow** part
|
||||
- Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
|
||||
- Cut **1 Long Bow** part
|
||||
- **Interfacing**
|
||||
- Cut **1 Short Bow** part
|
||||
- Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
|
||||
- Cut **1 Long Bow** part
|