9.3 KiB
title: "Jaeger jacket: Sewing Instructions"
La documentation de Jaeger est en cours de construction
Cette documentation n'est pas encore terminée.
Construction
Fermer les fléchettes avant
Plier le double
Fold the front double with the good sides together and pin it down so the fold is neatly in the middle of the front dart.
Coudre les fléchettes
Sew the front dart close, taking care to have the dart stop at the correct top end. The bottom is not that important as it will be covered by the pockets. But the top end of the dart will be clearly visible, so please make sure to have it end at the same height at both sides.
Couper et presser
Once the front darts are closed, cut open the dart at the back. You won't be able to cut it open all the way to the tip, but that's fine. Press open the darts where they are cut open, and press the rest to the side. Take care to only press from the back. Pressing from the front will likely mark your fabric.
Construire la poche de poitrine
Appliquer une interface fusible
Apply a rectangular piece of light fusible interfacing around the chest pocket area so that it extends a few cm in all directions.
Nous n'utilisons pas de fusible sur toute la face avant
Les vêtements de sport sont généralement fabriqués à partir de tissus plus lourds. That, and the fact that I prefer to use canvas rather than fusible interfacing, means that I don't interface the front with fusible.
Coller le contour du torse, marquer les extrémités de la ligne supérieure
With the fusible in place, thread a needle and baste around the chest pocket to transfer the markings to the good side of the fabric.
This pocket differs from a traditional welt pocket. The welt extends above the pocket opening. This hides the pocket bag without the need for facings. The top part of the opening is also smaller than the welt, allowing you to slip-stitch it closed.
On the top line of your basted welt pocket, mark 0.5cm inwards from the corners of the top line.
Ces points sont des entailles sur la partie avant de votre patron.
Plier, presser et coudre les coutures latérales de la soudure
Fold the welt double with the good sides together, and close the sides (sew the side seams).
Ajuster la marge de couture, tourner et appuyer sur
Trim the seam allowances on the sides and especially limit the seam allowance towards the corner to avoid bulk.
Turn inside out so the good side is out and press.
Faites attention à ne pas trop presser car vous appuierez sur le bon côté du tissu.
Collez la ligne inférieure de la soudure pour savoir où coudre
Baste a stitching guide at the bottom of the welt to mark the welt/seam allowance boundary. This will be the line to sew on later.
Coudre le joint à l'avant
Place welt down on good side of front with the folded side downwards, and sew to bottom line. Make sure to stop and start exactly at the edge of the line you basted.
Coudre le sac de poche à l'avant
Place the pocket bag down on the front. The front with good side up, but the pocket bag with bad side up. Make sure to have the longest side of the chest pocket bag on the highest side of the chest pocket.
Seules les poches de poitrine inclinées ont un côté supérieur et inférieur.
Sew this in place along the top line. Remember this should be shorter than the bottom row of stitches to attach the welt, since you marked 0.5cm inwards from the corners.
Comme le dossier de poche est généralement un tissu glissant, vous voudrez probablement épingler ou basculer ce tissu avant de coudre.
Coupez l'ouverture de la poche du coffre, tournez et appuyez sur
Now cut open your welt in the middle of both seamlines. Don't cut to the edge, but create a trianngular shape there.
Flip the pocket bag and welt to the backside by passing both of them through the opening you just created.
Get everything to lay nice and flat, and press.
Now, bring the welt only to the front and get it to lie nice and flat. Press again from the back.
Résistez à l'envie d'insister sur ce point de l'avant.
Terminer la poche de poitrine
On the backside, fold the pocket bag double and sew it to the pocket welt below the existing seamline of the welt.
Thread a needle and hand-finish the chest pocket by sewing down the sides of the welt to the front panel (don't let your stitches show on the front).
Finally, close the pocket bag by sewing the sides. Do this by placing the front down with the good side up. Then fold over each side and sew the pocket bag. While sewing these sides, make sure to catch those triangular little pieces of the opening. This will reinforce the pocket opening.
Baste the chest pocket closed while we contruct the jacket.
Préparer les devants
Cut out the front canvas piece in a light and supple canvas placed on the bias. Cut out the entire front.
Cut out the front dart and close it with a zig-zag stitch, making sure not to let the canvas overlap.
Cut out the chest canvas piece. Align it along the roll line, and baste it in place on front canvas piece.
La pièce de la poitrine est marquée sur la partie avant de votre patron.
Glisser la toile vers les faces
Now baste the front canvas and chest piece to your front. Keep in mind that the canvas has no seam allowance.
Base it a bit inwards from the seam line so you can fold it away when sewing these seams later.
You don't want your canvas to get caught in the seams.
Coupez vos genoux
Time to feel like a real tailor, and pad-stitch those lapels.
Make sure to make the stitches a bit smaller towards the lapel tip, to make sure it lies flat against the chest, curling a bit inward instead of outward.
If you're not sure how to pad-stitch the lapels, let us know and we'll make an attempt to document it.
Ruban le bord du tour et la ligne de rouleau
Now we are going to hand-sew tailor tape along the lapel edges of the front, and along the roll line. This will also secure the canvas to the front here and there.
Keep in mind that:
- Le ruban le long de la ligne de rouleau doit être placé à l'intérieur de la ligne de roulement.
- Le ruban le long de la ligne de rouleau devrait être environ un demi-centimètre plus court que la distance qu'il couvre. La légère tension que cela crée aide le roulement de la patte de façon agréable et le contour de votre corps.
- Le ruban le long du bord de la bordure doit être placé à l'intérieur de la ligne de couture
Ne pas coudre à travers votre tissu
While sewing the tape to your front, avoid pushing your needle all the way through your fabric so that your stitches will show on the front.
En même temps, vous ne devriez pas sécuriser le ruban uniquement sur votre toile non plus. Instead, you should try to catch a few threads of your fabric on every stitch, so that the tape is secured in place, yet the stitches don't show at the front.
Il s'agit moins d'un problème au-dessus du point de rupture de votre papeau, où le tissu sera sur le dos du rebord.
Fermer le corps
Fermer les coutures latérales
Place your front with the good side up, and your side on it with the good side down.
Align the front/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
Place this down with the good side up, and place your back on top with the good side down.
Align the back/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
Assurez-vous que la toile ne soit pas prise dans la couture.
Note pour les fentes de couture
Si vous avez un double événement, cette couture contiendra la fenêtre.
Coudre la partie vers le bas de la couture latérale et la partie latérale qui forme la coupe. Ne couchez pas vers le bas après cela.
Fermer la couture arrière
Aling your two half-jackets with the good sides together, and close the back seam.
Note pour les fentes de couture
Si vous avez un seul événement, cette couture contiendra l'évent.
Coudre la partie inférieure de la couture arrière et la partie latérale qui forme la coupe. Ne couchez pas vers le bas après cela.
Fermer les coutures d'épaule
Align the shoulder seams with good sides together, and sew them together.
Make sure the canvas does not get caught in the seam.
Alignez les épaules
Assurez-vous d'aligner soigneusement les épaules en se basant sur les entailles. En raison de la forme différente des panneaux avant et arrière du côté du cou, le bord du tissu est différent. Donc, l'alignement de ces bords ne vous donnera pas ce dont vous avez besoin.
Assurez-vous donc d'aligner les encoches. « C'est pour cela qu'ils sont là. »