87 lines
4 KiB
Markdown
87 lines
4 KiB
Markdown
---
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author: "joostdecock"
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caption: "Picture you and him, in matching coats."
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date: "2018-01-26"
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intro: "This one's for the ladies --- and I'm not (just) talking about that picture of heart-throb Benedict Cumberbatch at the top of this post."
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title: "Announcing Carlita, the womenswear version of our Carlton coat."
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---
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This one's for the ladies --- and I'm not (just) talking about that picture of heart-throb Benedict Cumberbatch at the top of this post.
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Instead, I'm talking about the release of our latest pattern:
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the [Carlita Coat](/patterns/carlita) which is out in beta as of today.
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Carlita is --- you guessed it --- the womenswear version of our Carlton coat, which recreates the iconic Sherlock
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Holmes coat worn by BC on the BBC series.
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## How did we do it?
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For details on how this project came to be,
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I refer you to [the Carlton announcement post](/blog/announcing-carlton-and-bent/).
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Here, I'd like to focus on the specifics of how we turned this menswear pattern into a coat for ladies.
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We wanted to stay as close to the original as possible, so all we did was make changes to address
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one challenge: fitting the breasts.
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### Princess, meet your seam
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We drew an extra princess seam in the front panel of the coat, through which we added shaping for the bust.
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To be able to do that accurately, Carlita requires three extra measurements in addition to the measurements required by Carlton. They are:
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- The [high bust](/docs/measurements/#highBust)
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- The [bust span](/docs/measurements/#bustSpan)
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- The [high point shoulder to bust](/docs/measurements/#highPointShoulderToBust)
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We use your high bust measurements to draft the coat, and then do a full bust adjustment on the
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princess seam based on your (full) chest circumference, bust span and HPS to bust.
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### All of the pockets, but we had to move some of them
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The addition of the princess seam made the map pocket placement a bit difficult,
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so we've slightly moved it, and aligned it vertically, rather than slightly tilted as it is in Carlton.
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This way, the pocket can be integrated in the princess seam, somewhere in the underboob region.
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### One extra option: The princess seam smooth factor
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Carlita also has one extra option that Carlton doesn't have, the somewhat elaborately named
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[Princess seam smooth factor](/docs/designs/carlita/options#princessSeamSmoothFactor).
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This controls how sharply the princess seam will revert back after having added the extra volume for your chest.
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A picture says more than a thousand words, so here's the option sampled on the relevant part of the pattern:
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As you can see, the option controls the urgency with which the princess seam reverts back to your waistline
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after passing the fullest point of your bust.
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A low factor will make for a more fitted coat, but also a more curvy seam that is harder to sew.
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A higher smooth factor will smooth this out so it's a more sloped retreat to the downward seam.
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This will make the coat less fitted under your chest, and the seam easier to sew.
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## A reminder about made-to-measure patterns
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This goes without saying for regular visitors to this site, but if you're new here, it's worth repeating:
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> This coat is not drafted with a certain cup size in mind. Instead, it will adapt to your chest based on your measurements.
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## Ladies, we need your feedback
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This is our first womenswear pattern with a fitted chest.
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As such, we're breaking new ground here, and I'd be interested to see how this pattern adapts to a variety of body shapes/cup sizes.
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If you're planning to make this coat, or a muslin of it, please share your experience, and don't hesitate to get in
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touch should you run into any issues.
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I plan to design more womenswear patterns, so if there are any fit issues, I'd like to know about it sooner rather than later.
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## Shout-out
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Last but not least, I'd like to thank [Anneke](http://www.annekecaramin.com/) for her help throughout this project, and tolerating my countless rants about
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my love/hate relationship with boobs.
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