freesewing/markdown/org/docs/patterns/teagan/instructions/fr.md

Etape 1: Assemblez les coutures d'épaule

• Place the front and back on top of each other with good sides together. Align the shoulder seams.
• Serge the shoulder seams, or stitch them with a narrow (~2 mm) zigzag stitch at the standard seam allowance.

Optional: In a drapier knit, you may choose to reinforce the shoulder seams by stitching clear elastic along the seam on the inside. On a T-shirt, the shoulder seams support most of the weight of the garment. Reinforcing is not required, but it can keep the shoulder seams from stretching over time.

Step 2: Set in the sleeves

• Place your now attached front and back with the good side up.
• Identify the front and back sides of each of your sleeves. (This is how you separate the left sleeve from the right.) On your paper pattern piece, the front side of the sleeve is to the left.
• Place a sleeve on top of the front and back, with the good side down.
• Align the top of the sleevecap with the shoulder seam. Make sure that the front and back of the sleeve are aligned with the front and back pieces of your shirt.
• Pin sleeve in place along the entire armhole. There’s a bit of sleevecap ease, which means that the sleevehead is slightly longer than the armhole. Ease in the top part of the sleeve head while pinning.
• Sew/serge your pinned sleeve in place.
• Repeat for the other sleeve.

Step 3: Sew knit binding to the neck opening.

A more extensive how-to on knit binding can be found in the Aaron Instuctions.

• Nous finirons par le trou du bras et du cou avec un biais de jersey (Remarque : pas une bande de jersey. There’s a difference, and it’s explained here).

This is the most complex step in making the Teagan T-shirt, but it just requires a bit of practice. Don’t worry, all you need to do is make a couple of these and you’ll be a pro in no time.

Placer (démarrer) votre biais

• Put your T-shirt down with the back good side up, and place your binding strip on top of it with the good side down (as in, good sides together). Your binding should start at the center back of the neck opening.
• Alignez le bord long de votre bande avec le bord de votre tissu, de sorte que la bande se trouve sur le tissu (pas dans l'ouverture). Placez le coin sur votre point de départ.
• Déplacez maintenant votre bande de biais de 1cm avant votre point de départ. Cette petite marge vous garantira de pouvoir rejoindre les deux extrémités plus tard.

Coudre le biais bien positionné

• Place your presser foot 3 cm along the knit binding, so a 3 cm tail will be left unstitched. This will help us join the ends of the binding later. Then, sew 1.5 cm from the edge around the neck opening, stretching the binding gently as you sew. (Note: this is not the standard seam allowance.)
• Stop sewing 3 cm before the end, leaving a tail like we did at the beginning.

Mark and sew binding ends

• With about 6cm left to go before we complete our circle, it’s time to sew the ends of the binding together.
• Take one of the edges, and stretch it along the 3cm separating it from the start point as you would while sewing. On the binding, mark where the binding reached the start point. Faites la même chose pour l'autre extrémité.
• Fold your T-shirt in whatever way makes it more easy for you to place both binding ends with good sides together, aligning the marks. Sew them together at the marks.

6 cm is not much, but should be enough to get both edges comfortably under your sewing machine to sew them together.

• Now that your binding ends are joined together, it’s time to finish the last 6cm of binding. Cousez-les en restant à 1,5cm du bord comme vous l'avez fait auparavant.

Fold knit binding to the back and sew down

• Fold your binding fabric around the fabric of your T-shirt to the back. This is how we’ll sew it down.
• While the fabric is folded double at the front (hiding the fabric edge in the process), there’s no need for that at the back. We will merely trim back the edge later, given that knit doesn’t ravel. Si nous devions replier le tissu à l'arrière également, cela ne ferait qu'ajouter de l'épaisseur.
• Now you’ll sew the binding down. Sur l'endroit de votre tissu, cousez le long du bord de votre biais (le plus loin du bord du pli), en s'assurant de bien prendre le biais de l'arrière dans la couture.

Si vous avez une recouvreuse, ce sera parfait pour cette couture.

• You’ll have to, once again, stretch your binding a bit while doing this. But this time, there’s an extra caveat to look out for.

Méfiez-vous des différences d'entraînement

En passant votre biais sous votre machine à coudre, les griffes d'entraînement tirent davantage la couche inférieure (arrière de votre biais).

Dans un monde parfait, toutes les épaisseurs suivent sans problème. Mais le plus souvent, la couche supérieure (face avant de votre biais) a tendance à se traîner un peu. Cela fait que votre biais ne se plie pas bien autour du bord du tissu, mais fait des plis disgracieux.

Surveillez donc si cela se produit, et si vous le voyez, étirez la couche inférieure un peu plus pour compenser. On the inside of your T-shirt, trim back the knit binding just outside of your seam to finish up.

Step 4: Close the side seams and sleeves

• Fold your Teagan T-shirt double at the shoulder seams with good sides together.
• Align the side seams and sleeves and pin them together.
• Serge/sew the side seam and continue sewing to close the arms all the way to the sleeve hem.
• Repeat on the other side.

Step 5: Finish hem and sleeves

• Fold the hem upwards, to the inside, and sew it down. Si vous avez une recouvreuse, utilisez-la. If not, use a twin needle or zig-zag stitch to keep the seam stretchable.
• Repeat for the hem on each sleeve.

Fold only once, to avoid bulk

Knitwear doesn’t ravel, so you can simply fold this over once and sew it down, then neatly trim back the fabric.