freesewing/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/es.md

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Holmes deerstalker hat: Sewing Instructions

Paso 1: Preparando las Piezas

• If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
• If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. Esto es para una costura más precisa que es clave para la construcción de sombrero.

La marca de hilos permite ver la línea de costura tanto en el lado derecho como en el incorrecto.

Incluso si usted se enfrenta a la corona puede que no quiera enfrentarse a las aletas auriculares si quiere que sean menos rígidas cuando se atan.

Estas instrucciones asumen que has marcado tus líneas de costura. Pueden ser más difíciles de seguir, si te saltas este paso.

Paso 2: La Corona

• With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
• Press seams open. Para ello, si no dispone de jamón puede utilizar flanneles o toallas en su lugar.
• (Optional) Edgestitch both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
• Repeat until you have two halves. Si la mitad del número de piezas de la corona es un número impar, tendrás que coser una sola pieza para cada mitad. Por ejemplo, si usted tiene 6 piezas de la corona, usted hace dos mitades de 3 coser una pieza a dos piezas cocidas juntas.
• With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. Es posible que le resulte más fácil unir la mano debido a la masa o a la precisión. Esta costura será referida como la "costura de la corona central" que avanza.
• (Optional) Edgestitch both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.

Dependiendo de su franquicia de costura puede que desee recortar costuras a medida que vaya a reducir el granel.

Paso 3: Las flaps auriculares

Aleteados con ataduras

• Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. Se referirán a ellos como lazos que avanzan.
• Baste a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repetir para otro empate.
• With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
• Clip and trim seam allowance.
• Turn inside out and press.
• (Optional) Topstitch or edgestitch the folded edge.
• Baste the raw edges together.
• Repeat for the remaining ear flap.

If you are uncertain about the length you want for you ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut in half. Utilice estas mitades como los lazos en las instrucciones anteriores. Los lazos están terminados al final para que puedas ajustar las longitudes entonces.

The lengths above are recommendations so feel free to go as long or as short as you like with the ties.
If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, see Holmes cutting for more info.

Brillantes con agujeros de botones

• Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (Esto no es necesario si dos flaps ya han sido conectados)
• With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
• Clip and trim seam allowance.
• Turn inside out and press.
• (Optional) Topstitch or Edgestitch the folded edge.
• Baste the raw edges together.
• Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
• Repeat for the remaining ear flap.

Las aletas auditivas tendrán que ser lo suficientemente largas para pasar por encima de la cima para que se puedan hacer con un botón en el pico. No utilice este método si no está usando un botón en la parte superior.

For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes

It is recommended to at least topstitch the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.

Step 4: The Bill

There are two methods for constructing the bill. This is due to the different types of materials the bill inserts can be made of. El método 1 es para materiales que no serán dañados por una aguja o hierro. El método 2 es para materiales que serán dañados por una aguja o hierro. Leer ambos métodos para determinar cuál es el mejor para usar.

The Bill Method 1

• Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
• Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary pad Stitches. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
• Baste along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
• With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
• Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
• Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
• Using the previous basting line as a guide, baste the opening closed.
• Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.

Tenga cuidado con el calor de un hierro cuando utilice ciertos materiales de inserción. You do not want to melt the Bill Insert and damage both it and the fabric.

If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Asegúrate de que no daña tu tela de sombrero al remover o aplicar.

The Bill Method 2

• With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
• Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
• Turn inside out and press.
• Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
• Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
• Baste as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
• Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.

Paso 5: Colmena y Lining

Una vez más, hay dos métodos para el montaje final y el revestimiento. Lea ambos métodos cuidadosamente para determinar cuál es el mejor para usted.

Método de Ensamblado 1

• Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
• Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
• Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
• Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
• Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to baste the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
• Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
• Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
• Remove all pad and basting stitches.
• Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
• (Optional) Loosely whipstitch the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
• Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting edgestitching.
• Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. Puede que tenga que pulsar debajo de más para evitar que el revestimiento se muestre. You may also find you need to baste the seam allowance down.
• Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
• Slipstitch or whipstitch the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
• Remove lining basting if used.
• (Optional) Tack the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Esto es para ayudar a evitar que el revestimiento se caiga.

Método de Ensamblaje 2

• Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
• Baste the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
• Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
• Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
• Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to baste the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
• (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
• Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
• Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting edgestitching and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
• With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Difundir el revestimiento a la corona a lo largo de las líneas de costura. Si es voluminoso puede querer recortar las costuras de forro o ambas costuras.
• Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
• (Optional/Alternate) Understitch lining.
• Slipstitch lining opening closed.
• (Optional/Alternate) Topstitch or Edgestitch along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
• (Optional) Tack the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Esto es para ayudar a evitar que el revestimiento se caiga.

For both Assembly and Lining Methods

You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the bills to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions.

For both Assembly and Lining Methods

If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the visors, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the visor and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the bill to shape. Simplemente asegúrese de ocultar este stitching y los clips al adjuntar el forraje.

For both Assembly and Lining Methods

Assembly and Lining instructions are written with a 6 panelled Holmes in mind. You may find the placement of bills and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule of thumb generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling.

Paso 6: Finalizando ataduras

Si no cortaron sus lazos cuando construyeron los tapones de los oídos, ahora es el momento de hacerlo. If you made your ties with your main fabric then you do not need to do these steps. Una vez más, lea los dos métodos cuidadosamente y escoja cuál es el mejor para usted.

Finalizando método Ties 1

• Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
• Unfold.
• If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
• Repeat for the remaining tie.

Finalizando método Ties 2

• Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
• Whipstitch the folded edge down to the tie
• Repeat for the remaining tie.

Para determinar cuál es la forma en que quieres doblar los lazos, te resultará más fácil atar las aletas de los oídos primero. Generalmente quieres que el pliegue esté en la parte inferior de los lazos pero como siempre es preferencia personal.

Paso 7: Botón

A menos que esté haciendo las aletas de ojo de botón, no tiene que coser un botón, pero puede ser útil si quiere ocultar cualquier costura mal alineada en el pico de la corona.

• Construct a covered button.
• Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
• Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and whipstitch the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.

Aunque sin duda opcional, puede que encuentre un botón es lo que falta en el sombrero para terminar la mirada. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. If it is attach it permanently. Mientras que un botón cubierto está cubierto puedes usar cualquier botón que desees, ¡siéntete libre de experimentar!

Paso 8: ¡Disfruta de tu nuevo sombrero!

¡Eso es todo! Todo listo. Ahora disfruta del mundo en tu maravilloso nuevo sombrero y quizás resuelva un crimen o dos.

Remember these instructions are just guidelines so don't worry if you want to construct the hat differently.
The Diagrams are yet to be made for this pattern so in the mean time if you need a visual aid, watch the YouTube video that inspired this pattern: