4.6 KiB
Notas y consejos
Terminal
Las salidas de lápiz son apretadas. Esto limita un poco su movimiento. More so, when you try to sit down, the skirt may try to pull itself off your waist, or, when you get back up, stay quite high on your bum. Lining the skirt will make it move a lot easier around your curves, and thereby make it easier for you to move.
Adding lining can be done by creating a slightly shorter front and back piece, that has some extra fabric in the middle. The extra fabric makes it easier for the lining to move. Una pulgada para cada una de las piezas delanteras y traseras es suficiente. You can either make a box pleat in the front and back, or add the extra fabric where the darts are. No es necesario coser dardos en la tela de forraje. Just a pleat at the dart position will be fine.
Pretina
Una cintura es opcional en Penelope. If you omit it, there will be quite some stress on the top of the zipper. Asegúrate de que tu zipper esté a la altura de la tarea. Un zipper invisible podría no ser la mejor opción entonces, ya que no siempre pueden tomar tanto recto.
Caparazón
Sin el zipper será imposible entrar y salir de la cabeza. So it should be at least the length from your waist to the largest part of your bum. Longer will make it easier to put the skirt on and off. Don't use one that's too long, because the part of the seam where the zipper is behaves differently than the part without it, and you want to try to make it invisible also in movement.
Tradicionalmente, se utiliza un zipper invisible en una cubierta de lápiz. Lately there has been a trend to use zippers that are right in the open. A veces incluso de la tela. Elige qué funciona para ti con el estilo que buscas. ¡Sé creativo (o no)! Be creative (or not)! You might want to opt for an alternative option if your fabric is on the heavier side.
Ventilador
Un ventilador en la espalda es opcional con Penelope. It will allow you to walk a lot easier than if you make the skirt without it. The vent also influences where the zipper will be located. If you choose to have no vent, the default zipper location is on the side seam, and the back will be cut-on-fold. With the vent, there has to be a seam in the back piece, and the zipper will be located on that seam.
Dardos
Los dardos se utilizan para compensar la diferencia entre la cintura y las mediciones del asiento. Dependiendo de esta diferencia, puede haber dos osadías, un dardo, o ningún dardo. More darts make for a potentially better fit. But if the amount of fabric that the dart will take in becomes too small, the number of darts will be reduced. Otherwise it would be very difficult to sew the darts, and they would probably become rather unsightly. Some of the difference will be taken in by the side seam, and if the difference is small, no darts will be included in the front and back pieces.
Construcción
We're not going into a full explanation here on how to create all the individual details that make up a pencil skirt. We assume that you know how to sew a dart, insert an invisible zipper, make a vent, etc. If not, there are numerous excellent articles available on the web, both in writen form, and on video. If you do get stuck, you can always reach out to other FreeSewers.
En primer lugar, coser todos los oscuros. Quieren presionarlos hacia la espalda. So for the back piece, that means you press boths sides towards eachother. Para el pietro delantero, sólo el contrario.
The next thing you want to do is sew the seam that has the zipper, and insert the zipper into it. Siga el procedimiento apropiado para el tipo de zipper que está usando.
Esmeralda hacia arriba ambas costuras.
Su siguiente paso depende de si usted tiene un ventilador y revestimiento. If you're including a lining, now is the time to make it. The lining is made the same way that the rest of the skirt is made, with two exceptions; the darts are just pleats, and they have more 'ease' included. La forma en que distribuyes esta "facilidad" depende de ti. You can add it to the dart pleats, add another dart pleat, or make a box pleat in the middle.
Of course, if you include a lining, you have to include this in the way you've finished your zipper. Y conéctalo a la ventana, si tu cabecera tiene una de ellas.
A continuación se adjunta la cintura si su versión tiene una. First fold it double along the long side and press. Añade tu interfaz. Diviértete al lado derecho del tejido. Then turn it over and press the seam into the waistband. Now use the stitch-in-the-ditch technique to finish the waistband. Añada su opción de cierre.
Todo lo que queda ahora es cortar la cabeza.