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| author | caption | date | image | intro | title |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| joostdecock | Imagínate a usted y a él, en los abrigos iguales. | 2018-01-26 | https://cdn.sanity.io/images/hl5bw8cj/site-content/d0ac31adcf8e14cec377aada6c688394a15199d8-1920x1440.webp | Esta es para las damas --- y no estoy (solamente) hablando de la imagen del ídolo Benedict Cumberbatch en la parte superior de este post. | Announcing Carlita, the womenswear version of our Carlton coat. |
Esta es para las damas --- y no estoy (solamente) hablando de la imagen del ídolo Benedict Cumberbatch en la parte superior de este post.
En realidad, estoy hablando del lanzamiento de nuestro último patrón: el abrigo de Carlita que está en beta a partir de hoy.
Carlita es --- usted lo adivinó --- la versión de ropa de mujeres de nuestro abrigo Carlton, el cual recrea el abrigo icónico de Sherlock Holmes usado por BC en la serie BBC.
¿Cómo lo hicimos?
Para más detalles sobre cómo llegó este proyecto, te remito a la publicación del anuncio de Carlton. Aquí, me gustaría centrarme en los detalles de cómo convertimos este patrón de menswear en un abrigo para damas.
Queriamos mantener el patrón lo mas cerca possible al original, así que todo lo que hicimos fue hacer cambios para abordar un desafío: ajustar los senos.
Princess, meet your seam
Dibujamos una costura princesa adicional en el panel frontal del abrigo, a través del cual añadimos forma para el busto.
Para poder hacerlo con precisión, Carlita requiere tres mediciones adicionales además de las medidas requeridas por Carlton. Estas son:
- El alto polvo
- The bust span
- The high point shoulder to bust
We use your high bust measurements to draft the coat, and then do a full bust adjustment on the princess seam based on your (full) chest circumference, bust span and HPS to bust.
All of the pockets, but we had to move some of them
The addition of the princess seam made the map pocket placement a bit difficult, so we've slightly moved it, and aligned it vertically, rather than slightly tilted as it is in Carlton.
This way, the pocket can be integrated in the princess seam, somewhere in the underboob region.
One extra option: The princess seam smooth factor
Carlita also has one extra option that Carlton doesn't have, the somewhat elaborately named Princess seam smooth factor.
This controls how sharply the princess seam will revert back after having added the extra volume for your chest.
A picture says more than a thousand words, so here's the option sampled on the relevant part of the pattern:
As you can see, the option controls the urgency with which the princess seam reverts back to your waistline after passing the fullest point of your bust.
A low factor will make for a more fitted coat, but also a more curvy seam that is harder to sew.
A higher smooth factor will smooth this out so it's a more sloped retreat to the downward seam. This will make the coat less fitted under your chest, and the seam easier to sew.
A reminder about made-to-measure patterns
This goes without saying for regular visitors to this site, but if you're new here, it's worth repeating:
This coat is not drafted with a certain cup size in mind. Instead, it will adapt to your chest based on your measurements.
Ladies, we need your feedback
This is our first womenswear pattern with a fitted chest. As such, we're breaking new ground here, and I'd be interested to see how this pattern adapts to a variety of body shapes/cup sizes.
If you're planning to make this coat, or a muslin of it, please share your experience, and don't hesitate to get in touch should you run into any issues.
I plan to design more womenswear patterns, so if there are any fit issues, I'd like to know about it sooner rather than later.
Shout-out
Last but not least, I'd like to thank Anneke for her help throughout this project, and tolerating my countless rants about my love/hate relationship with boobs.