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| Paco pants: Sewing Instructions |
Een notitie op de afwerkingen van de naad
voordat je begint, zal je beslissen over je manier van naad, afwerking, of hoe je de onbewerkte naden langs de benen van je broek opschont om te voorkomen dat ze rafelen. Er zijn hiervoor veel opties. Gemeenschappelijke keuzes naaien de onbewerkte randen of gebruiken Franse naden om de rauwe randen te omhelzen.
Voor deze instructies, gaan we ervan uit dat je een overlock gebruikt voor naadafstand, maar we ook alternatieven aanbieden. Andere opties voor het afwerken van de naden zijn onder meer het knippen met een knijpende schaar, stik een zigzag langs de rand van de naad om te voorkomen dat het uitrafelt, of koppel met bias tape.
Stap 1: Maak de achterzakken
Are you planning to insert welt pockets in the back of your Paco pants? Is so, awesome! This is arguably the trickiest part, and we'll accomplish it first. If not, you can skip ahead to the next step, preparing the front pockets.
Construct the welt pockets at the back of your trousers, including the pocket bag.
Paspelzakken
Paspelzakken worden in verschillende kledingstukken gebruikt. Daarom is het in zijn eigen documentatiepagina verdisconteerd.
Er is zowel geschreven documentatie als een videoserie die je laat zien hoe je het moet doen, dus zelfs als je nog nooit paspelzakken hebt gemaakt, ben je in orde.
Naar de documentatie voor paspelzakken (in het Engels)
Stap 2: Maak de voorzakken
Your pockets are cut from a lining material, which can save on weight and bulk, but also means that you'll want to hide them a little bit inside the side seam, so the lining doesn't show. The flap along the outside seam of each leg is for just this purpose.
If you are using a serger, serge the curved edges of your pocket pieces. Then, serge along the long edges of the pocket flaps.
Stap 3: Bevestig de zakken aan de broekspijpen
With good sides together, line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the front leg. Sew together. Repeat for second leg.
Now do the same with the back legs. With good sides together, line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the back leg. Before sewing, make sure that your left leg front and back are attached to one pocket, and your right leg front and back are attached to the other. Sew together.
Press all seams toward the pants (away from the pocket bag).
Optioneel: Vanaf elke kant van de zak kun je hier een millimeter of twee tussendoorstikken, zak, onderstikken om de kleppen en het zakdeel helemaal samen te bevestigen op de manier waarop je ze hebt gedrukt.
Stap 4: Bereid de zijnaden en de steekzak voor
You should now have two big pieces, each with a front and back leg attached by a pocket.
Take one of the pieces, and place the front and back leg good sides together. Align the outer side seam, so that the side seam of the leg pieces match up, and the pocket bag edges are aligned, with good sides together.
Stap 5: Stik de zijnaden
You'll sew two separate seams to stitch up your side seams while leaving your pockets open.
Start at the top of the leg pieces. Sew along the side seam, pivoting as you reach the pocket bag. You can also shorten your stitch length here to reinforce the corner of the pocket opening. Follow the side seam, pivoting again and ending at the top of the pocket.
Next, you'll close the bottom of the pocket bag and stitch the rest of the side seam. Start at the bottom edge of the pocket bag, sewing along the bottom of the pocket, then pivoting when you get to the side seam of the pants. You can use a shorter stitch length for the first few stitches on the side seam, to reinforce the bottom of the pocket opening. Sew all the way down the leg side seam.
Repeat for second leg.
Stap 6: Werk de zijnaden af
Finishing these seams requires a touch of delicacy, especially around the tops of the pockets.
It would be difficult to finish the top part of the side seam with a serger, so we'll use a zig-zag stitch. Starting at the top of the side seam, zig-zag stitch along the raw edge of the seam allowance, pivoting around the pocket opening. Continue the zig-zag stitch up the side of the pocket, unless you've serged your pockets already (in which case you can stop when you reach the pocket).
The bottom opening of the pocket is a tight corner. To finish the seam around this corner, zig-zag stitch the raw edge of the seam allowance, starting where it joins the pocket, pivoting at the corner and continuing about 5 cm (2 in.) down the side seam. You can continue finishing the side seam with a zig-zag stitch all the way down. Alternatively, you can serge the side seam, making sure to stop the line of serger stitches a little ways from the pocket.
Maak de overlockstiksels zeker goed vast. Ze zullen niet worden betrapt in andere naden, dus ze riskeren onveilig te worden gelaten.
Repeat for second leg.
Press the side seams toward the front.
Dat lijkt misschien geen logische manier van werken. Veel naaipatronen voor broeken laten je de zijnaden naar het achterpand persen. Maar in dit geval heb je steekzakken in de naad verwerkt, en die moeten natuurlijk aan de voorkant van de broek zitten. Je zakken gaan met je zijnaad strijden als je de naad aan de achterkant strijkt. dus strijken we alles naar het voorpand. Het resultaat zal er mooier uitzien.
De hoeken van een opening van de zak zijn een van de meest waarschijnlijke plekken om uit te dragen of tranen, vooral als je je zakken veel gebruikt. Als je je zorgen maakt over het scheuren aan de hoeken van je zakken, of als je stof gevoeliger is, je kan de zakopeningen versterken met staven langs de naad lijn, net buiten de zakopeningen.
Stap 7: Ankerzakdeel naar taille
The pockets in Paco are anchored at the waist. This means that you can put things in your pockets without them becoming unsightly bump that’s just dangling around in your trouser leg.
To anchor each pocket, align the top of the pocket with the mark along the waistline of your pattern. Sew a line of basting stitches inside your seam allowance to hold the pocket in place.
Stap 8: Stik en werk de innaden af
Align the inseams with good sides together, then sew up the inseams. Finish the seams the same way you finished the side seams. Press inseams to the back.
Stap 9: Stik en voltooi de kruisnaad
To attach the individual legs, flip one leg good side out (it doesn't matter which leg), then place it inside the other leg, good sides together. You should now have what looks like just one pant leg, with wrong sides visible. Align the center front, center back, and inseams of each leg, then pin along the length of the crotch seam. Sew and finish the crotch seam.
Als je van het midden naar het midden naait Het is makkelijker om je binnennaadwaarde aan de achterkant te houden terwijl ze via de machine stromen.
Stap 10: Plaats veterzakken voor de tekenreeks (optioneel)
Mark the middle of your waistband length. Fold one of your waistband pieces double, and mark the middle of the width (do not take the seam allowance into account).
A bit to the left and right of this, you can add two eyelets to pass a drawstring through. Because your Paco pants have elastic in the waistband, as well, this is a nice detail, but is not required.
Het is het beste om wat versterking toe te voegen
Als je een stof gekozen hebt die glad is, droog, of dun, je wilt misschien wat versterking toevoegen achter deze wenkels. Een beetje tussenvoering of een overblijfsel van denim doet het goed.
Stap 11: Bereid de taille elastiek voor
There’s no magic formula for the length of your elastic. So you wrap it around your waist and pull it tight until you get a good fit. Paco is cut to sit at the high hip, so make sure your elastic is long enough to sit comfortably at the high hip.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together.
Stap 12: Naai de tailleband
Place the two waistband pieces good sides together, and align the short edges. Sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the waistband, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
Fold the waistband double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the top of your waistband.
Stap 13: Bevestig de tailleband
You have two options for attaching your waistband. One is a bit simpler, but leaves an exposed seam on the inside. The other is a bit more fiddly, but it encloses the raw edges of your fabric.
De eenvoudige methode
Keep your waistband folded double, and place the elastic inside. Make sure to align the place where the elastic is joined with the back of the waistband (opposite the eyelets).
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.
Knip je wandelaars
Als je vetergaatjes in je tailleband hebt gemaakt, dubbele controle of ze naar buiten worden geplaatst, niet de binnenkant van je tailleband.
Next, align the center backs and pin in place, adding additional pins around the waistband as needed.
Sew the waistband to the pants, as close to the the elastic as you can, but don’t sew into the elastic.
It’s fine to not sew too close the first time around, and once your elastic is attached and encased, make a second round to sew it a bit more snugly.
Remove any basting stitches from the tops of the pocket bags.
Finish the seam with a serger or other method.
De naadmethode in de kast
Open the waistband. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with each side of the waistband individually.
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.
Mind your eyelets
To make sure your eyelets will end up on the outside, make sure they are closer to the top of your waistband, above the fold, for now.
Next, align the center back of your waistband with the center back seam. Pin in place. Then, add additional pins around the waistband as needed.
Sew the waistband to the pants.
Press the waistband up. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the waistband, maintaining the fold along the center of the waistband.
Refold the waistband, turning half the waistband to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just below the seam joining the waistband to the pants, and pin in place around the waistband. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner waistband as you go.
Stap 14: Bereid de manchet elastisch voor
As you did with the waistband elastic, wrap the elastic for your cuff around your ankle and pull it tight until you get a good fit.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together. Repeat for the other cuff elastic.
Stap 15: Bevestig de manchetten
Fold each cuff with good sides together, aligning the short edges. For each cuff, sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the cuff, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
Fold each cuff double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the bottom of your cuffs.
Stap 16: Bevestig de manchetten
You will attach your cuffs the same way that you attached the waistband. As with the waistband, there are two options - a simpler choice, and a choice without exposed seams on the inside.
If your sewing machine has a detachable bed (usually removed to expose the "free arm" for sewing sleeve cuffs), this will make sewing the cuffs easier.
De eenvoudige methode
Keep your cuffs folded double, and place the elastic inside.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
De manchetten spelden
De elastiek zal de manchetten moeilijker vastmaken. Om zeker te zijn dat je manchetten gelijk vastzitten aan de pants, plaats je tweede speld vanaf de eerste kant van de opening van de broekspijp. Je kunt het elastiek rekken om ervoor te zorgen dat alles soepel opgaat Plaats dan je volgende spelden halverwege tussen de eerste twee. Ga zo door! Speld halverwege andere spullen, totdat je er vertrouwen in hebt er genoeg zijn.
Sew the cuff to the pants opening, as close to the the elastic as you can, but don’t sew into the elastic.
Finish the seam with a serger or other method.
De naadmethode in de kast
Open the cuff. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with each side of the cuff individually.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
Sew the cuff to the pants.
Press the cuff away from the pants. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the cuff, maintaining the fold along the center of the cuff.
Refold the cuff, turning half the cuff to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just past the seam joining the cuff to the pants, and pin in place around the cuff. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner cuff as you go.
Stap 17: Stik de manchetten en tailleband (optioneel)
If you have wider cuff elastic, you may want to stitch a horizontal line halfway up the cuff. This will hold your elastic in place and help keep it from folding or twisting. Make sure to stretch the elastic evenly as you sew, so that it gathers the fabric evenly. (If you sew without stretching the elastic, you risk lumpy gathers and a leg opening too narrow to get your foot through.)
If you like the look, you can also sew more than one line of stitches, evenly spaced between the top and bottom of the cuff.
You can do the same for the waistband.
Als je wenkbrauwen voor een koordje vaststikt, stik je een stiksel van stiksels boven de wandelgangen en een aparte lijn onder de ogen verlaat een kanaal breed genoeg voor je tekenreeks.
Stap 18: Thread een tekenreeks rond de taille (optioneel)
If you put eyelets in your waistband, thread a drawstring through one eyelet, around the waist, and out of the other eyelet.
Er zijn middelen om deze taak te vergemakkelijken, maar een die bijna iedereen heeft, is een eenvoudige veiligheidspanne. Speld de veiligheidspeld vast aan één einde van je tekenreeks, en duwt deze vervolgens door het kanaal. De veiligheidspeld is makkelijker te maneuveren door de stof, en het trekt de tekenreeks ermee op.
Stap 19: Geniet van je Pacotaarns!
You did it! Way to go!