7ac36d1190
This ports the docs for the following designs: breanna, bruce, cathrin, florence, florent , hugo, lily, lunetius, onyx, opal, paco, sandy, shelly, shin, sven, tamiko, teagan, iberius, trayvon, wahid, walburga, and yuri. Also adds a prebuild step to build the options umbrella pages. and includes some CSS tweaks.
200 lines
8.3 KiB
Text
200 lines
8.3 KiB
Text
---
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title: 'Opal Overalls: Sewing Instructions'
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sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
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sidebar_position: 20
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---
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## Before you start
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### Sewing tips
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A _double row of stitching_ means a row of _edgestitching_ no more than 3mm in
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from the edge, followed by a row of _topstitching_ about 6-10mm in from the
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first row. This should produce stitching that looks like the stitching found on
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jeans, or a flat felled seam.
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If you wish to do any embroidery, it's easiest to do it now, before starting to
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assemble the garment.
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### Customizing and fitting your pattern
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#### Select an appropriate leg length
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- 20-60% for shorts
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- 90% for ankle-length legs
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- 100% for legs that touch the floor.
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#### Decide on what hardware you want to use
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These instruction assume you're using traditional overalls hardware (tack
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buttons + buckles + sliders), but there are many ways of securing the straps to
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the front bib.
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#### Decide on what pockets to include
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The designs supports up to seven pockets in a classical carpenter style (a bib
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pocket, two front slash pockets, two back pockets, and two carpenter pockets on
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the right leg), along with a hammer loop. If not including front slash pockets,
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the front piece will have to have the triangular gap filled in where the pocket
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would go.
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#### Figure out what kind of fit you want
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And set your eases accordingly.
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- Overalls are generally much roomier than pants. As such, they usually have
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quite a bit of ease.
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- Keep in mind that the waist must slide over your hips. Either make sure the
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waist has enough ease to slide over the hips, or use a fabric with some
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two-way stretch (like the fabric used in skinny jeans).
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- The straps must be long enough to add any extra length needed for the
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hardware. Traditional overalls hardware (tack buttons + buckles + sliders)
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generally need 20-30cm of extra length to accomodate the straps being
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adjustable.
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## Step 1: Slash Pockets
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- Overcast or serge the slanted edge of the pocket shield to prevent it from
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fraying.
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- With the slash pocket laying flat with _good sides up_ place the pocket
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shield onto the slash pocket _wrong side_ to _good side_ in the upper corner,
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matching the slanted edge of the pocket shield to the line indicated on the
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slash pocket part.
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- _Edgestitch_ the slanted edge of the pocket shield to the slash pocket.
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- Turn the pocket _right-side-out_.
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- Secure the seam with a double row of stitching.
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- _Baste_ the remaining two sides; these will be secured when the pocket is
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sewn into the legs.
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- Repeat for the other slash pocket making sure it is mirrored to one you've
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already made.
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## Step 2: Bib Pocket
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- Press a double fold hem into the top edge of the bib pocket, and secure with
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a double row of stitching.
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- Press a single fold hem into the remaining sides of the bib pocket, and
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secure with clips or pins. Place the bib pocket carefully into place onto the
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front bib, _wrong side to good side_, and pin into place, removing the
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previous clips/pins as you do so.
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- Secure with a double row of stitching.
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## Step 3: Pockets
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### Step 3a: Back Pockets (first part)
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- Press a double fold hem into the top edge of the back pocket, and secure with
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a double row of stitching.
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- Press a single fold hem into the remaining sides of the back pocket, and
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secure with clips or pins. Place the back pocket carefully into place onto
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the rear piece, _wrong side to good side_, and pin into place, removing the
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previous clips/pins as you do so.
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### Step 3b: Carpenter Pockets
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- Press a double fold hem into the slanted edge of the carpenter pocket, and
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secure with a double row of stitching.
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- Press a single fold hem into the remaining sides of the carpenter pocket, and
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secure with clips or pins.
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- Carefully remove pins as needed from the right back pocket to make room for
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the carpenter pocket to be slid under the back pocket. Place the carpenter
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pocket carefully into place _on top of_ the right(opposite of left) rear
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piece and _under_ the back pocket, _wrong side to good side_, and pin into
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place, removing the previous clips/pins as you do so.
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- Secure with a double row of stitching on the top, left, and bottom sides of
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the carpenter pocket, being careful to lift the back pocket out of the way as
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you sew to avoid sewing into it.
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- Baste the rightmost edges of the carpenter pocket and rear pieces together.
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- Press a double fold hem into the slanted edge of the 2nd carpenter pocket,
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and secure with a double row of stitching.
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- Press a single fold hem into the remaining sides of the 2nd carpenter pocket,
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and secure with clips or pins.
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- Baste the rightmost edges of the 2nd carpenter pocket and rear pieces
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together.
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### Step 3c: Hammer Loop
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- Fold the hammer loop piece to the desired width and clip/pin.
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- Carefully remove pins from the left back pockets to make room for the hammer
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loop to be slid under the back pocket.
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- Slide the hammer loop _under_ the left back pocket, and replace the pins,
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securing the hammer loop into place.
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- Place the hammer loop along the left edge of the left rear piece, and baste
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into place.
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### Step 3d: Back Pockets (second part)
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- Secure with a double row of stitching.
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- Repeat for the second back pocket.
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## Step 4: Assembling the front
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- Fold the waistband piece as indicated and clip/pin it.
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- With _right sides together_ join the front pieces together along the center
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seam with a flat felled or mock flat felled seam.
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- Place the front piece and front bib together with _right sides together_ and
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secure them together with a straight stitch to form the front assembly. Press
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the seam so that it lays towards to top the garment.
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- Unfold the front assembly and lay it on the table _wrong side up_.
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- Place the waistband over the waist seam, with the smooth side face up, and
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the side with the raw edge placed against the front assembly. Place the
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bottom edge of the waistband 3-5mm below the seam, and make sure that the
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waistband fully covers the seam.
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- Trim any excess waistband length.
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- Pin into place, removing existing clips/pins from the waistband in the
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process.
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- Flip the front assembly _right side up_.
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- Topstitch 3 or 4 horizontal rows of straight stitching to secure the
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waistband to the front assembly and reinforce the waist seam, making sure to
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enclose the waist seam fully within the topstitching.
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## Step 5: Assembling the back
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The center seam runs from the bottom of the 'hexagon' to the crotch fork. Be
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careful not to stitch any part of the hexagon in this step.
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With _right sides together_ , join the front and back assemblies along the
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center seam with a flat felled or mock flat felled seam.
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## Step 6: Joining the front and back assemblies
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- With _right sides together_, join the front and back assemblies along each
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outseam with a flat felled or mock flat felled seam.
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- With _right sides still together_, close the inseam with a flat felled or
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mock flat felled seam.
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## Step 7: Forming the hexagon and hemming the bibs
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- Lay the back bib flat with _right sides up_, so that the two back bibs
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overlap to form the hexagon. The left back/right strap crosses over the right
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back/left strap.
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- Fold the hem allowances of the hexagon inwards into a single-fold topstitched
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hem/seam, and pin into place (clips won't work here).
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- Fold the remaining hem allowances of the straps and bibs into a double-fold
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hem, and clip or pin.
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- Secure the hexagon and the hems with a double row of stitching. You should be
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able to be do this in two parts, starting and finishing on the sides of the
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hexagon for each one.
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## Step 8: Reinforcing the front bib and installing hardware
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- Fold the bib placket piece as indicated, and clip or pin.
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- Trim any excess length away.
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- (optional) Serge or overlock the sides of the bib placket to prevent fraying.
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- Clip or pin the bib placket into place. It should be slightly inset from the
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edges of the front bib, and the side with the raw edge should be placed
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against the _wrong side_ of the bib.
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- Topstitch 3 or 4 horizontal rows of straight stitching from the _right side_
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of the garment to secure the placket into place.
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## Step 9: Hemming the legs
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- Fold the hem allowances of the legs into double-fold hems, and clip or pin.
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- Secure the hems with a single row of stitching.
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## Step 10: Finishing
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- Put on a comfortable shirt or one-piece garment for underneath, or just go
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shirtless.
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- Put on your finished overalls.
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- You're all done. Enjoy.
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