75 lines
4.3 KiB
Markdown
75 lines
4.3 KiB
Markdown
---
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author: "joostdecock"
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caption: "Imagínate a usted y a él, en los abrigos iguales."
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date: "2018-01-26"
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image: "https://cdn.sanity.io/images/hl5bw8cj/site-content/d0ac31adcf8e14cec377aada6c688394a15199d8-1920x1440.webp"
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intro: "Esta es para las damas --- y no estoy (solamente) hablando de la imagen del ídolo Benedict Cumberbatch en la parte superior de este post."
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title: "Announcing Carlita, the womenswear version of our Carlton coat."
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---
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Esta es para las damas --- y no estoy (solamente) hablando de la imagen del ídolo Benedict Cumberbatch en la parte superior de este post.
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En realidad, estoy hablando del lanzamiento de nuestro último patrón: el [abrigo de Carlita](/patterns/carlita) que está en beta a partir de hoy.
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Carlita es --- usted lo adivinó --- la versión de ropa de mujeres de nuestro abrigo Carlton, el cual recrea el abrigo icónico de Sherlock Holmes usado por BC en la serie BBC.
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## ¿Cómo lo hicimos?
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Para más detalles sobre cómo llegó este proyecto, te remito a [la publicación del anuncio de Carlton](/blog/announcing-carlton-and-bent/). Aquí, me gustaría centrarme en los detalles de cómo convertimos este patrón de menswear en un abrigo para damas.
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Queriamos mantener el patrón lo mas cerca possible al original, así que todo lo que hicimos fue hacer cambios para abordar un desafío: ajustar los senos.
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### Princess, meet your seam
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Dibujamos una costura princesa adicional en el panel frontal del abrigo, a través del cual añadimos forma para el busto.
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Para poder hacerlo con precisión, Carlita requiere tres mediciones adicionales además de las medidas requeridas por Carlton. Estas son:
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- El [alto polvo](/docs/measurements/#highBust)
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- The [bust span](/docs/measurements/#bustSpan)
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- The [high point shoulder to bust](/docs/measurements/#highPointShoulderToBust)
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We use your high bust measurements to draft the coat, and then do a full bust adjustment on the princess seam based on your (full) chest circumference, bust span and HPS to bust.
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### All of the pockets, but we had to move some of them
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The addition of the princess seam made the map pocket placement a bit difficult, so we've slightly moved it, and aligned it vertically, rather than slightly tilted as it is in Carlton.
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This way, the pocket can be integrated in the princess seam, somewhere in the underboob region.
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### One extra option: The princess seam smooth factor
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Carlita also has one extra option that Carlton doesn't have, the somewhat elaborately named [Princess seam smooth factor](/docs/patterns/carlita/options#princessSeamSmoothFactor).
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This controls how sharply the princess seam will revert back after having added the extra volume for your chest.
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A picture says more than a thousand words, so here's the option sampled on the relevant part of the pattern:
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As you can see, the option controls the urgency with which the princess seam reverts back to your waistline after passing the fullest point of your bust.
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A low factor will make for a more fitted coat, but also a more curvy seam that is harder to sew.
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A higher smooth factor will smooth this out so it's a more sloped retreat to the downward seam. This will make the coat less fitted under your chest, and the seam easier to sew.
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## A reminder about made-to-measure patterns
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This goes without saying for regular visitors to this site, but if you're new here, it's worth repeating:
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> This coat is not drafted with a certain cup size in mind. Instead, it will adapt to your chest based on your measurements.
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## Ladies, we need your feedback
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This is our first womenswear pattern with a fitted chest. As such, we're breaking new ground here, and I'd be interested to see how this pattern adapts to a variety of body shapes/cup sizes.
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If you're planning to make this coat, or a muslin of it, please share your experience, and don't hesitate to get in touch should you run into any issues.
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I plan to design more womenswear patterns, so if there are any fit issues, I'd like to know about it sooner rather than later.
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## Shout-out
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Last but not least, I'd like to thank [Anneke](http://www.annekecaramin.com/) for her help throughout this project, and tolerating my countless rants about my love/hate relationship with boobs.
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